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Showing content with the highest reputation on 17/04/21 in all areas
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Found a baja body in stockin wheelspin , now its sat on the sc10 and looks awesome. Would like some sort of interior for this if any one knows of anything. Also needs some paddle tyres for rear4 points
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Oh yeah I forgot I did get the lad a ftx carnage think I'll only show the missus that one 😂3 points
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You always tell the wife it is for the Kid. My son ''has'' a Arrma Felony, mind you he is just 7 🙂 .3 points
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when LVC kicks in the cells are under load. so when tested they should be over what your LVC was set at. I would take your fluke next time out to double check everything.2 points
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Glad I didn't go mad with getting a new RC as my bike ended up going back to the dealership to be looked at. Which probably means that it's going to pretty expensive ☹️ Some good news though I've got the hang of flying on the sim for the most part. My landings on the other hand need work as my planes are usually in more pieces than when I take off 🤣2 points
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Making some good progress on the Super Hornet. Got 95% of the chassis rebuilt, just need a new silver can motor, manual speed controller and shocks. Also received my replica decals from MCI racing in Canada which look the business. on the wheel front new old Super Hornet wheels are like hens teeth........but.......... take one set of Wild One re re wheels, dye them tangerine orange using Rit dye and bingo - new super hornet wheels!2 points
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Hi guys. After some advice. So having been out of the RC scene for decades, all this ESc and brushless stuff is currently new to me! I was Old school electric Optima mid and then 1/5th petrol... Recently bought a Kyosho Inferno mini 8 to cut my teeth. It came with a fluorescent shell and has obviously been hopped up with blue metal parts and minimised internally for speed. Tyres are slicks, it has a 9200kv C4 dynamite motor and mamba ESC - but apparently this set up created cogging so I was also sent a quicrun 16bl30 ESC and 7800kv hobbywing engine. It came with standard battery pack. It's the one on the left in the pics, and I have already added the new black shell from the spares repair effort mentioned below... Plenty to be going on with! Then I saw a spares repair mini 8 and thought as it's cheap, I'll buy it for the shell as I'm not a fan of the Fluorescent one. On arrival I note it has far more plastic internals, a 4200kv engine, a purple ESC (no Idea of brand) a bigger bumper and chunkier wheels - see pics. Also a couple of 2s Lipos. As these were both rollers I have my an old Robitronic TL-3C tx and Rx and recently bought a Kyosho KT331P tx with receiver, to keep on brand. As a newbie to all this, my question is simple - which combo is best for the mini 8?! Which tyres, motor and ESC do I pick! And what batteries? All opinions welcome! Thanks!1 point
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I like that a lot - been getting my stock SenderoHD bumper hung up alot at the beach today1 point
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I think you'd have to gear it appropriately lower too, ...the Infraction comes with a 15T pinion AFAIK so that would be a good starting point. You can always gear it up then for more speed.1 point
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I followed the Tamiya Legends video so - Bring a pan of cold water to a simmer Mix in half a pack of the powder dye Add wheels and leave for 25-30mins (checking and turning occasionally)1 point
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The debate on this one will always rage on.... To run droop or not to run droop Some folk prefer a mix and run a semi droop setup. As you've probably worked out, running any droop, will lower you centre of gravity which helps with climbing steep faces etc etc... As far as running full droop goes, it's main aim is to aid compression in the shocks so they wheels can travel more freely up into the arches.... Great you say... But.. And there is a but.... It also greatly affects the weight distribution on the unsprung weight they're holding up.... Go too far with too much weight.... and what you'll have is a bouncy rig that flip flops around on the rough stuff and tumbles easily as it can't support its own weight during those steep climbs... Leading to rolls etc... But equally... Go too little... And you'll end up with a jacked up style lifted truck that's mostly suited to flat land trailing... As it now will have such a high c.o.g it won't climb for toffee.... Swings n roundabouts... Its a topic whereby everyone favours their own setup.... Mostly due to the fact that its relatable entirely to its own platform.... E. G. A heavier truck, a longer wheelbase... An already low cog..... Shock stroke... Wheel size... Body.. Will Al affect how much or how little you implement... I'm short... There's no sole solution unless you're all running the identical platforms... Its something you'll have to experiment with yourself to dial in your truck for whatever scenario /terrain your running it in...1 point
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I use ballance lead extenders and charge in the sack You can get them from modelsport in leads section1 point
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Most t used mini z stuffed is always listed for insane prices. Mind you it never sells, you can just have a long list at sold items on ebay to realise this. Folks seems to think they can sell mini z as if the queen herself had touched it and it is now worth tons.... Just cause you bought it expensive, doesn't mean you going to sell it expensive particularly with something like a mini z where you will play a bit with it and then get bored... I bought two new ones and i know soon as i open they will be wort less than half and pointless to sell. Neverthless, I am already looking for an evo, knowing full well that it is a waste of money 🙂 . But car goes brrom broom and i like it.1 point
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Either that or build a 4WD 1:1 muscle car to justify the RC existance... that one might be the better option 😄1 point
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Am I the only one who thinks that this should NOT be AWD?1 point
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You’re not wrong, but it’s hard to start a hobby knowing which way you want to go with it.1 point
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The thing is, the lipo bag and charger are functional, but given time they will be replaced. Bag only fits one battery and already mentioned chargers limitations. if you never plan to upgrade your chosen model, but only repair then I agree that the brushless option is best. But if you’re anything like me and like to tinker and try to improve things with modifications and upgrades, I disagree as long term you will likely want to get some more performance out of it and replace the majority of electronics regardless.1 point
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I don’t know for certain but I’m pretty sure the GRP’s will be more like drift wheels on a small lightweight plastic buggy ? It’s worth a shot anyway for the price of the adapters 👍1 point
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Dusted of the FPV gear, been charging Runcam 2HD cameras, charging lipo`s ..........Yay flying on sunday, taking the Dragon, Albabird and micro skyhunter maybe the Rambler as well1 point
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So the 3D printed PLA ones are now installled. They’re actually 2 grams lighter than the standard and they do seem a bit beefier. The spacers that were in on the suspension arms are removed as the arms are a tight fit. I did have to drill out a tiny amount for the pillow balls and also file down where the shocks sit ever so slightly. Might just be a printing thing. File seems alright though. My mate who did the printing also said he changed something (I’ll try and find out what, think it was an infill?) to make them a bit stronger. Looks good though, and the red and the green compliment each other actually 😂 also bent the shock back in so that it’ll run no bother hopefully. Gave it a quick push down test and all seems ok 👍🏻Overall, think they do seem a bit beefier, especially where the stress fractures are at1 point
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He forgets...as do many others....that a face covering was NEVER to stop YOU getting the virus, but rather to ensure you don;t pass on a virus. A subnstantial number of thoser contracting the virus develop no symptoms, but are very capable of pasing it on, potential to those closest to them, and potentially to people vulnerable to the virus. It's much the same with the vaccine....with folks thinking it gives them immunity. It does no such thing. It provides the body with a means of combating the virus, massively reducing hte likelihood of a severe case and hospitalisation. It will reduce deaths and hospital admissions, but it won;t stop you getting it...or passing it on. People do love to shout about 'their personal freedoms' ,...... whilst completely ignoring the fact that their behaviour affects other peoples personal freedoms. I have the right to walk down the street, get on a bus, and go about my business without hte risk of some 'I'm alright.....screw you lot' idiots who are so sure they are OK, they don;t need to take precautions. I wear a mask where I am required to, avoid crowds, socially distance, and take this whole thing very seriously. I like to think I have done everything I can to prevent others getting sick should I have the virus and not know, and that matters to me.1 point
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If its just the area under each diff then HDPE is easy to cut and cheap.1 point
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I find a mix of natural materials works best, if you want a really big skid having a curry the night before helps 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣1 point
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If you have the skill 0.5mm stainless steel is nice. Just less forgiving because it's thin. I've used polycarbonate before which can easily be done with a dremel and body reamer but if you've worn through an aluminium one I don't think it would last.1 point
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