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m4inbrain

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m4inbrain last won the day on February 6

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About m4inbrain

  • Birthday 21/02/1982

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    South Wales
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    Yes.
  • RC Cars
    Trail Finder 2 / VRD Carbon / Sherpa / X-Maxx 8s / Axial Capra / Yokomo SD2.0 / D-Like LP86
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  1. Could be just what i need for the current project, rebuilding an LTS from scratch.
  2. No idea about changing ESC etc, though i will say that my experiences with Absima are that there's not much air "up" in their chassis', you're guaranteed to start breaking things on 6s - and i doubt that a stock 4s motor is able to safely/reliably run 6s. That out of the way, springs. As Locky mentioned, the springs actually might not be your issue. Put the rig on the floor, see how it sits. It should droop a little on the springs, how much exactly is down to taste. Not all the way, obviously. Anywhere from 10-40% is fine in my book, depending on what RC i'm working on. If it does that, your issue is too low weight/thin shock oil. The issue might not be the strength of the spring, but how fast the piston can move inside the shock body - you want to slow that down. You can do that either by using thicker shock oil (the manual potentially should mention what weight/viscosity is in them), or different pistons in side the shock (smaller holes to constrict flow of the oil) - but changing the pistons is more involved, wouldn't recommend that. Try thicker oil first, maybe 10%-20% thicker than what is currently in them, go from there. edit: 1000cst is what i ran in my Kraton EXB with 8s Castle motor/ESC. Maybe worth pointing out that some chassis slap is normal - how old is your rig, maybe the springs are just noodled out?
  3. Recently went from my old bedslinger/semi-manual levelling Ender to a CoreXY Bambu Labs P1S, boy. Printers have come a long way, haven't they.
  4. That's from an hour ago. 80% of the items on the webpage are listed out of stock, too. They're definitely gone.
  5. Injora and/or Treal. Not many other reasonable options out there.
  6. That's pretty much not going to happen. It's a bit of an either/or situation. You either get a 4x4 with "proper" clearance (truggy, MT etc), which are impossible to convert to rally/street cars as such (you can throw road wheels on it, but it's still going to be a truggy/MT, just with worse wheels) - or you have a road car/rally rig, where you'll struggle to find the one inch clearance. With that in mind, i'd suggest a slightly different route. Instead of spending £500 on a kit to then upgrade, get something cheap. You can still build it yourself, you can do a few small upgrades, but in the end, whatever cheap rig you gonna buy now is going to be a dead end eventually. At 7 years old, my first vote would go to a Lunch Box. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/tamiya-lunch-box-23143 Reason being, this is cheap as chips, it's a simple builders kit, it's 4x4 and faster than a crawler (it's not monstrous though, being brushed), it comes with motor and ESC already, you just need to grab a cheap radio, servo and battery (nimh are a good fit, so you don't need to faff with LiPos and their safety straight away either), spares are cheap, teach how to paint etc. If you ask for a used radio here in the wanted section, you'll probably get away with a total of less than £180 (kit, radio, batteries, charger). Put the rest of the money away, once he's "ready", get him something reasonable. Because, as bad as it sounds, £500 seems like a lot, but for a builders kit (with everything else, radio etc) - it's actually very little. Charger, batteries and radio from new are already £100 (closer to £150, really) at least, and kits generally don't include motors/esc/receiver/servos. The other option i'd suggest looking into would be this. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/traxxas-slash-hd-bl-2s-1-10-electric-2wd-kit-short-course-truck-1363989 This is complete, all you need is a battery and charger - and Slashs have a huge aftermarket, you could potentially turn this into something else, though technically it is somewhat of a road car and rally car in one anyway, being a short course truck. Downside, it's 2WD. You could check if there's a way to convert a 2WD slash into a 4WD slash (they do sell 4WD slashs, just not as kit as far as i am aware), and tackle that with your son. Just me two cents - there's no "perfect" suggestion based on your criteria, you'll have to compromise on one thing or another.
  7. Sometimes you just have to get lucky. 

    475809966_606433815617462_56348253479487

    Brand new kit, built to a decent standard (had axles and diffs apart, happy with it) - never had even wheels on, literally not a mark on it. Plus a Fusion Pro, paid £380. Now to figure out what to do with it. 

    1. Show previous comments  6 more
    2. Ziggy122

      Ziggy122

      ha! on the main screen it don't show the picture till you get to your profile...

       

      All I heard was Bow-chick- a-wow-wow 🤣🤣🤣

       

       

    3. Kpowell911

      Kpowell911

      Dont know much about these but looks awesome. Whats the rrp?

    4. m4inbrain

      m4inbrain

      £485 for the kit, £135 for the motor, hence happiness 😄

       

      Scoped out wheels, going with Vanquish this time - but i will say, they'll take the skin of your back as well. Tyres, wheels and spacers = $235 (got Squid'nserts here). 

      That's.. stout.

  8. m4inbrain

    Sold

    bump, added pictures and adjusted price.
  9. Feel free to list all those "much better equipped" models then. Only the ones with decent and timely part support, warranty and customer support though. Thanks in advance.
  10. Yeah that was the CNHL one. The main issue is that if you're even slightly too high, you can't close the battery tray anymore (unlike in rigs like Kratons etc where you have a strap as opposed to a bar that clicks in), so better be save than sorry. I think that's the correct adaptor, yeah. That Sunpadow or whatever, nah. I personally wouldn't humour that pack (especially not from Amazon) - but i didn't recommend it, so @Stormbringer has to vouch here. 😄 I wouldn't know, i'm german. Nobody is happy there. Just efficient. 😁
  11. Traxxas itself doesn't cover warranty in the UK anyway, it's the shop you buy from. Never had an issue and did have a re-soldered ESC to send back. I don't know if it's policy - but you could message the shop you're ordering from, and ask them if they could resolder the TRX connector on the Maxx or whatever straight away (modelsport does offer soldering services). That should be covered just fine, though i wouldn't promise anything.
  12. They do exist, but it's generally not a great practice since you don't know who soldered it. Or how well he soldered it. That said, old TRX connectors are compatible to the newer ones, so any TRX to whatever adaptor will work.
  13. I can tell you that it'll fit, never heard of those packs before. I'd probably go for this one: edit: i lied, doesn't fit, gimme a minute. Battery tray size is 186x48x43. The GensAce one will fit, had a CNHL pack linked here before. This one: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/1361665 and buy an adaptor separately. I'm picky when it comes to LiPos, the ones you mentioned might be perfectly fine but with magic angry pixies, i always err on the safe side of things. Reason for discarding the CNHL pack i had linked prior is that the Maxx uses a "bar" to clamp the battery in, so the max height is an actual max height, or the tray doesn't close. The GensAce pack will fit. Nah, since Traxxas stuff basically arrives within 48 hours, just order a pair when you break one (one to replace, one for spares). No point in gathering spares if nothing's broken yet, imho. And you hit the nail on the head: Traxxas are (sometimes vastly) overpriced, but there's things that one simply can't argue with - be it ease of access to basically everything on the rig if it needs replacing, or the quality of the plastic used. I'm at the age now where i get angry at the price of Traxxas rigs (because they're overpriced) - but still buy them because, again age-related, i just can't be arsed to faff around anymore. I basically pay for convenience, that's how i see it. Bit arse, but in the end.. i'm german, my wife gets scared when i get angry at things lol, so i try to keep the german cursing in check. 😁
  14. Nah. Just sell the 5t roller to me for a tenner, i'll run it 12s. 😁
  15. Nothing ever broke on both my Maxx's or my X-Maxx (at least mechanically, i did have the VXL8s nope out) - that doesn't mean they don't break, i know they do. 😉 I'm not arguing against the MJX, it does seem a good value proposition - my argument is more in the rut of "you're always one bad landing away from a parts order". And when that day arrives (and it will arrive, with any RC), personally i'd much rather have a Traxxas (disregarding my well known opinions on the brand itself) than a chinese rig (be it MJX or WLToys "long number here"). For known faults, the Maxx does have a habit of breaking the rear driveshafts on a bad landing. They're <£15, available basically everywhere, and are changed in less than 5 minutes. In regards to comparison, the MJX compares much better to the MT10 and Sketer imho. That all said, i don't have a stake with Traxxas or any other manufacturer - in the end, go for what you think suits you best. edit: as an aside, i would rate chinese jobs much higher if there was a reliable and lasting(!) local parts support for them, but there generally isn't. It's always "order from ali", with all the joys that stem from there - be it unreliability, waiting times, crooked dealers etc - and within a year, maybe two, spares simply disappear. Same crap different name with Hobbyking rigs.
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