Paul Busby

Well it has Tekno arms, Tekno shocks, Tekno bumpers and a Tekno A Block 😉 It does have an Arrma wing though.

Looks like a Tekno MT410 or SCT410 to me

Take the whole mount apart and put it back together with threadlock. I'm sure the EXB one is alloy, so it should be rock solid. Sounds like something is loose.

That's very strange mate. I might drop a note on the Thingiverse. I wonder if there has a been a slight tweak to the Maxx design somewhere.

I thought the EXB Servo mount was good, no? I use a JBIRC one from CustomRC Upgrades, but there is a bunch of options out there. https://www.pos-modellbau.de/ This is the guy that makes the really good parts. His shop has been closed a while though, so I wonder if he is only selling B2B now.

You probably will need to fix this selling thread when the mods spin round. Are you interested in an up front sale, and if so, how much?

The car was never intended to be run at 8s. I have seen a bunch of people disappointed that the Kraton experience at 8s isnt great and I really don't understand it. The diffs are way too small and way too loose for 8s bashing, they can take a bit of speed running, but jumping with huge tyres on is way too much for this rig. There is no benefit to it either, it's heavy for a 1/8, but not so much that you would need the extra current capacity that 8s have to offer. I get that some people like to just do, "because I can", but why on earth would you get upset when you find that your toaster makes a crap pizza oven? Just run it at 6s geared to 50-60MPH and it's a blast. I've had my Kraton for a couple of years now and once you have it all tweaked they really are beasts. Shim the diffs, sling on a bunch of aftermarket parts and just enjoy it for what it was designed to be.

It is a different truck, but it's not all that different to be honest. Other than the shorter wheelbase, and therefore driveshafts and braces, there's little else to it. The issues highlighted here are the same for Kraton and Notorious. That said, don't be afraid to start a new thread. I'll sub and continue to poke my nose in despite not owning one 😄 With the mudguards... £100m, don't take a penny less 😄 In all seriousness though if it's in decent nick then ~£300-350 maybe?

Best bit might be to take the arm apart and use something to clamp onto the driveshaft/drive cup then spin the nut. Yeah this is a common issue. Not too much in the way of solutions, other than perhaps an after market wing mount, but the one that I recommend isn't really available in the UK at the moment (POS). I think some people have drilled them out to M4, but I don't think there is a "solution" to the issue completely.

Some new calipers..... Just incase it isn't obvious from the picture.... they are tiny: Good for measuring small parts of RC cars where things would otherwise get in the way though.

That's Superb mate, need to go and check out the next vid int he series.

Could maybe try to print one? Questionable how much punishment it would take, but probably more than a glued part Speaking of which, I have been very quiet on the 3D printed parts front as i have been doing a bit of an overhaul on my printer. Installed a redesigned carriage with a far more efficient hot end, pulled all the sides off and re-organised the cables, changed some fans... with doing a full time job it's taken some time. I can say that it was absolutely worth it though. Just printed a part off in PA12-CF15 (Nylon with 15% carbon) and it's better than anything I have done with similar filmanets in the past. So I'm back in the game... @.AJ. - Again, I'll have to let you know how it holds up 😄

Needs a 6s set up that, mate.

Honestly the only that really helps these Gool RC ESCs, if you get a bad one, is to get a refund and replace it with a Hobbywing. I know this seems blunt and flippant, but it's true. The electronics are very poor.