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Showing content with the highest reputation since 16/03/25 in all areas
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7 points
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Took a couple of cars out and both came back in working order which is a bit of a first with my recent spate of breakages. Freezing cold but the ground was nice and dry and both cars barely needed a clean. Just wish I had taken more batteries but went with the expectation that the runs would be cut short.6 points
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Arrma fury 223s turned up today. Fancied a Traxxas slash but these are just such good value and seem to be a bit tougher going by the reviews online.5 points
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4 points
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One of two we have, this is Osca, she’ll be 10 now and is invasively affectionate.4 points
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Gonna start building some of my NIB kits. Starting with the BT-01 Porsche, bearing kit en route and I have paint/electronics 🙂4 points
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3 points
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3 points
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Finally got around to checking out a place someone recommended months ago. This is right near Asda in chandlers Ford. It’s used as a trails bike course and is perfect for crawling with room for bigger bashers too. Funnily enough I bumped into the two guys that recommended it to me and had a good couple of hours up there this afternoon. If anyone else is up for a meet let me know.3 points
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Geez, it's been almost 2 years! I totally fell-off this project. Partially, because I have so many other projects to finish and partially, honestly, I was slightly doubting myself. The part I was about to tackle was critical and there would only be one chance! Anyway, I decided to just get on with it. I know I have the skills to do something like this, so long as I take my time and measure things, properly. So, the mounting system I decided on utilises these shelving L-brackets. I had to drill a 3mm hole in the rear two, as that was the only way to get the ride height where I wanted it. I used the existing metal chassis brace, which already has 3mm threaded holes, so that works perfect and is plenty strong. As there is only one mounting hole, there is a chance that these will pivot, causing the "bodyshell" (The Winnebago, itself), to tilt out of place, but I had a plan for that, as you will see. I'm going to cut the brackets, below the frame. I'll also paint them, to make them less conspicuous. Sitting the Winnebago on top of the rear mounts gave a pretty good fit, right off the bat! For the front, the bumper mount/chassis brace is plastic, so not really strong enough to mount to. The front of the frame sits lower than the rear of the frame, so the front L-brackets needed to be mounted lower down (making them sit higher). The existing L-bracket holes are 5mm, so these 3mm frame holes needed drilled-out. Drilled-out to 5mm. The frame is steel, so is still strong enough, despite the reduction in material. 5mm threaded rod, cut to size (sold as 1m length). I bought a brand-new mini hacksaw, as my old one is utterly knackered. However, the cheap, crappy blade blunted within 20 seconds! Out came the old hacksaw, which just managed to do the job! The stainless steel threaded rod has made the front of the chassis much stronger. Nyloc nuts on the inside of the frame. This was an utter pain! Would have been easier with non-locking nuts, but I wanted the additional security. Plus, the frame-channels would make this difficult, regardless. In this photo, I hadn't finished getting the nuts quite right. Installed and pretty solid! The inner locnuts can't rotate, as they are inside the channels. The outers have just been given some serious welly! All L-brackets mounted and secured. Again, there is a slim chance (despite the amount of force I tightened them with) that the L-brackets could pivot/rotate on the screws. However, note that plastic chassis-brace, near the middle, with the two holes in it, next to the ESC... It's sitting basically where I want it. Likely need to shorten my home-made rear links, but that isn't much of an issue. The bottom of the Winnebago is basically at the same level as the chassis skid-plate, so the ground clearance is as good as it can get, without sitting too high and looking weird. Approach angle is very nice! Decided to mount the electronics inside the old, cut-down battery tray. They'll be hidden by the floor of the Winnebago, when it gets put back in. No idea, where I'm going to put the battery, though! This layout didn't last, as I swapped it around, shortly after this photo was taken. Note the power switch on the side-plate. I moved it, because when powered-up, the switch button glows red. it was far too obvious and you could see the light under the truck. With the ESC moved in-front of the receiver, the power switch can now be hidden under the dashboard. So, I'll lift the lid to switch the truck on and off. I like that! Makes use of the original premise of this Tonka toy! The wires will be hidden by the floor. Now, onto my idea to stop the Winnebago moving on the mounts. I drilled two 3mm holes in the floor and inserted two bolts. They aren't exactly where they should be, as I was drilling them from below, up-between the rear links and driveshaft, where I couldn't quite get the drill in. Not to worry, the "Tonka" engraving isn't in the middle, so the holes aren't as bad as they look. The bolts go down through the floor (or up, as in this picture) and through that plastic chassis brace. That brace cannot move, as it is mounted in two places, per side. As a result, the Winnebago cannot move independently of the chassis. Well, she works! However, she's VERY wallowy! The springs and shocks are too soft. When she leans, there's no saving her and she cannot re-centre. Stiffer springs and thicker shock oil is needed. I'm already running the stiffest springs Gmade makes for these shocks, so I'll need to find alternatives. Shouldn't be too difficult, I'm sure I'll come up with something. Perhaps, a dual-spring setup, à la HPI Venture, would work better? 20250320_214448.mp4 Anyway, thanks for reading and apologies it's taken this long!3 points
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3 points
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3 points
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So my new battery turned up and wasn’t small enough to fit the tray. I just cannot find a suitable 2s battery to fit so my only option is to fit the new mini electronics. After much prototyping I have now finished making an Rx box to fit in the battery tray. I really wanted to be able to do this without butchering the original car or the electronics. The two small rectangle holes at the rear of the chassis will take perfectly a jst ph2.0 connector but this solution would have meant repinning the plugs every time you wanted to take the box out. So I had to cut 1mm down on one of the side slots to allow the battery and motor plugs to fit in there. Also I couldn’t get the normal servo connector to fit in the battery tray so I’ve swapped it out for a jst 1.25mm 3 pin connector. This is also compatible with the dumboRC mini rx. I’ve made a little antenna holder that sits in the existing hole in the chassis. Once the rx box goes in it will hold than antenna firmly in place. Now I just need to replace the servo wire and I should be able to test it. I’m hoping to utilise a small spring out of a lighter to make some sort of on/off switch that will sit beside the servo connection. All in all it should be a pretty tidy job when done.3 points
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2 points
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Done a bit more. Its such a unique build, dont know wether to do a build thread? Ive never built anything quite like it, its so weird haha Ill finish it later hopefully2 points
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Very busy lately with life, so not made much progress. I have got the Porsche Shell finished, and started the BT-01 build. Ive added a bearing kit to the build and a SuperStock motor. But Ive not really got very far 😂2 points
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2 points
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Took the arrma fury 223s for its maiden run today, wicked bit of rc for the money this. Would recommend this over a 2wd brushless traxxas all day long and I’m a traxxas fanboy😂2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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@Skyesgaming maybe a colour scheme for one of your TT-02 shells??2 points
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Good thing about that discharger, If you take more than what you use just blast them down to storage on it. From now on I am going be taking that extra pack out with me because you never know more fun maybe needed and no worries about how I am going to discharge it 😃.2 points
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Late start due to the fact Im an adult and have to go to stupid work 🙄 Made a start on the BT-01, Ive had it since release but decided to build it as I think itll look great. I have everything I need to build/run it but then at the last minute I decided to buy a bearing set to build into it so for now Ill start the shell. Just going to try and do an hour each evening. I know theyre not the greatest chassis, but I fancy building something, Ive never built one before, and I bought this months ago so its basically a “freebie”.2 points
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wow never ever thought of tree knots being like that2 points
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Just found this thread.. Hence the like bombs 😁 Will dump a load of K&T pics later2 points
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With the release of the v6 version that came out there was different esc software for more power and efficiency on them, spectrum last week rolled out the software that could be downloaded, so updated the programme box and esc and had to give it a try, it was nuts before but now its even more mental and will do standing backflips!2 points
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CRCU do some titanium ones. https://customrcupgrades.com/product/ftx-dr8-grade-5-titanium-tower-set/2 points
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shock towers. Somebody makes Ti ones that are pricey but 'Supposedly' buy once........ I managed to snag a full set of carbon for £18 from ebay, that I've just smashed and took out my grear box at the same time. For now I'm going back to my Alu tower an get a spare, when they innevitably bend |I'll take em to work an straighten them with a gert big mallet as the Ti is gonna have to wait for now.. I now cant help thinking that the stronger the tower.. that strength just goes into the gear box, an cracks it? Oh yeah I forgot aboot the rear D block, as far as I know the newer V2 comes with ally as standard on the rear2 points
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2 points
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Added some stickers. A very challenging sticket set for me, and its far far from perfect. But this is probably my favourite Touring car now. Proper Gran Turismo! Im looking at widening the stance somehow too. With my other NSXs. Few more to get With some R34s. The real versions of these wouldve had some great battles back in the day (and on 13 year old me’s Playstation!) Some other JDM goodness2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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2 points
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When did we stop accepting this as the standard kit packaging on an RC? It amazes me each time. Its beautiful! Fast forward to today and even some premium kits have the parts thrown in 😕2 points
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Massive day for me. My Daughter kept pointing up at my Tamiyas and seemed interested. So I did the sensible thing and pre ordered her a Jun Wantanabe Hornet PS Mummy is stood very close by incase she falls2 points
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This is our new wee kitty, it took quite some time to come up with a name but we have decided on Leo2 points
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Last year I bought a job lot of 4 micro T’s that only came with one Tx and one crystal. I managed to hook a battery up and get some sort of response out of each of them but clearly something was up with the Rx’s as the wiring had gone black and stiff. So I boxed them up and left them. Having recently ended up with 2 new micro B’s I thought I’d try and transplant the new electronics into the old micro. So I picked out the cleanest looking one and set about stripping and cleaning it. The ESC/Rx and servo will fit no problem. But the motor is slightly bigger and although it does physically fit, the motor mounting holes do not line up. The battery is also far too large. So I found some cheap 030 motors and brushed esc’s on Amazon and a 230mah 2s battery on eBay that should fit the tray. Well the motors turned up and still didn’t fit. Although everything I can find reference the original motor says it’s an 030, it just seems that little bit smaller? So my only option at this point is to find an adjustable motor mounting plate which is like rocking horse **** or stick with the original motor, which still works. So I gave it healthy dose of electrical cleaner and soldered a new jst-ph connector on there. Got the car back together, taking a bulkhead off another car as this one had a chewed up fixing hole. Now I have a good clean base with very few blemishes. Next was to get the servo in. I had already worked out I cannot reuse the original servo horn as it fits the original hexagonal shaft servo. I tried to Frankenstein the servo’s, first just changing the final drive, then swapping over the guts of the new one into the old casing. Neither worked. So time to cut to tabs off and print my own servo horn. I ended up splitting the casing of the servo when getting the tabs off but managed to cover the holes with a sticker and the shim I made for the servo. The servo saver is wound so tight to clear the steering rack that it’s not really doing anything. But this servo has so much more range than the horn has room so with the trim set right I expect the servo would be the last thing to break if this little thing takes a big hit. I’ve now stared to design a mounting plate for the ESC and dumbo mini Rx. This is going to require some fiddly soldering to get it to all fit under original Rx cover which I’m keen to do. If I can’t make this work I can definitely get the new spektrum 2in1 to work with the small battery, or possibly with the micro B battery if I can fit the 2in1 in the battery tray and the battery on top. Ideally I’ll clean another car up and make both options up. Meanwhile I now need a brushless setup for the micro B!1 point
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These two are my favourite tracks and are still in rotation on pretty much any playlist.1 point
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1 point
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If you save all the mud off them you could build a track in the garden, lol1 point
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Post winter shake down for @Skyesgaming's TT02 and DT03. Just half a pack through each to check they're all tickety boo. Also got a full pack through my Pirates 3. Considering to cost roughly half what a 6s typhon would cost. It's really holding up well. Still want to retire it and get a hobao truggy. But if it holds up well enough to the abuse this summer I may delay that another year. Also birthday present holding up great 😄😄1 point
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Ripping, crashing and having loads of fun. Added some useful parts, buzzer and leds1 point
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1 point
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Wow these things really are cool in the flesh, so cool I don't want to run it now lol Can you not run it with the mx tyres on tarmac? I can just manage to fit a 6600mah 2s CNHL pack in that uses 90 deg bullet connectors. Might cut a groove in where the r clip goes in to make it easier to fit Just need to look in my connector box for a plug, didn't want to remove the stock plug incase it invalidates the warranty...1 point
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