lorrylemming

Both of those batteries should be recoverable. Put them on a 0.5amp balance charge and then check the internal resistance, page 23 of the T100 manual. Depending on the pack size it should be below 10 milliohms per cell. For the lipo alarm, the generic ones from ebay are pretty good, the main issue is the balance lead can pop off so make sure you secure the wiring.

After sitting at the bench for bit I've decided to do a super stretch mod to my traxxas rustler 2wd. Simple affair with some ali stock extending the main chassis plate. Inspired by this build from The JANG many years ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNGptgxrhFI Currently I'm thinking of buying a 1/10th scale or 1/8th scale roll cage, probably from a crawler and then fabbing some lexan pieces to create a bonnet and nose. Aiming to look like a tamiya wild one or HPI Baja. Does anyone have any suggestions for a donor car that has an ideal roll cage?

I know you said 4wd but I would buy this if I had £250 to spend. Or I would save an extra £50 for the MT10. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145361636104?hash=item21d83a8b08:g:hlgAAOSwSMJjhOM~&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4Pg9j1rmKmRC6TEjwtpCr97PHyOP6FKuqHlrmxayLlnLvUJ5nt1E%2FtY55Ld298zNxNqyMMsEOEjGubcMJ0Tk7nlHF4WuG%2F5EtzI03ne9BedpgDWsSTqiKLM%2FRqxnl8XofChKFZk5Oj%2FFqzs0zcslU5WxJOrmraW7cHYhttH%2Bbt%2BwYzTvIbwodgfLOtHDHroTyl0qi%2FYacs%2Fs9cCo%2BtxEDlnXkXjPufdBgUDk4jvSZCggpWnNO%2B4Tiv6Wnt9AAeXVnhGv4oqALWpexpnz9Pm6NUHYDB32p7yWIqABudSS6s1W|tkp%3ABk9SR9aYwIDyYg

https://www.rccaraction.com/brushless-motors-turns-vs-kv-rating/ This site has a rough conversion between turns and kv but its not exact. I'd also look at an additional fan for the motor if you're going to run an entire pack at a time rather than 5 minute races. With 4WD the car will create quite some heat and a buggy shell doesn't let air through for cooling. This is the part with a fan mount for the 74.1, not sure if it fits the previous model. https://www.dms-racing.com/spare-parts/spare-parts-for-associated/low-profile-battery-posts-fan-mount-and-esc-tray-ae-b74-1-detail

My suggestions for a budget electronics set. ESC: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-quicrun-10bl120-sensored-425021 Motors: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/speed-passion-1-10-competition-mmm-series-45r-bl-motor-407412 https://uk.banggood.com/Surpass-Hobby-Rocket-540-Sensored-Brushless-Motor-V3-Shaft-3_175mm-RC-Car-Part-p-1188086.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=6314546&rmmds=search https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/core-rc-star-fixed-timing-motor-105t-1345031 4.5t will be very quick, 8.5t or 10.5t will be more sensible. Batteries: https://chinahobbyline.com/collections/uk-warehouse/products/cnhl-racing-lihv-series-5200mah-7-6v-2s-120c-hv-shorty-hard-case-lipo-battery-with-ec3-plug?variant=43988817641686 I have three 10bl120s, all working well. I also run one of the surpass motors and a few CNHL batteries, again pleased with them.

Interested to get your thoughts on this. I love the look but most of the reviews online are either the paid kind or from people who seem a little too tamiya if you know what I mean.

I was thinking of picking up a bodyshell from these for my XT2 but looking at the prices I'll probably just buy a whole truck. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/search/bodyshells?&sort=Relevance&search=gorgon

Hi All, I've got a vintage buggy I want to get moving but I'm struggling to work out what the cheapest way to do it is regarding electronics. I own: Tx and Rx Servo HPI firebolt 15t motor My options are either buy an ESC for the 15t motor or buy a ESC and motor combo. Does anyone have any reccomendations for an ESC that can power a 15t motor or if any of the cheap combo ESC and motors on Ebay are any good? It seems even a HW1040, 1060 and 1080 all aren't enough for the 15t motor which is quite annoying. The Traxxas XL5 is but its more expensive than some combos. Thanks. EDIT Misread the spec. I think a 1060 will be fine on 2S. Is that correct? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-quicrun-1060-brushed-waterproof-esc-sbec-t-plug-1339464

Wheels sold for the 22x4 buggy should fit, see here. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/wheels-tyres-9960/wheels-996015/tlr I'd then add whatever tyre you fancy, schumacher venoms are a decent rear tyre, not sure what to suggest on the front.

If these can handle a 2S or maybe even 3S system without any transmission upgrades they'll make a great car. The Arrma 1/10th 4wd mega models are a bit of a false ecomony with the cheaper transmission compared to the BLX models. EDIT: I wonder if a SCT version is coming with those extra mount holes for nerf bars maybe?

Bit of a weird one but a Traxxas skateboard. I'm honestly not sure its a licensed product as there's no trademark symbol or similar. The graphic also doesn't really match any Traxxas buggy more than say an RC10 or Ultima to my eyes. Regardless it'll make a fun wall decoration for £14 delivered.

The HD parts on this look a nice inclusion, shame about the servo and shocks.

https://site.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupyz2/ This site has loads of setups for different surfaces. Scroll down to carpet and then choose one that looks similar to your track. In the top right of the sheets there is some track information. This one from Yasir should be a good baseline for any UK indoor carpet track. https://site.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupyz2/YZ2x3.1_YasirMughal_TORCH20221016/ For your other thread, the manual shows the sero drag link with 0mm space between the ball cups, so build it like that. The angle of the servo horn relative to the chassis doesn't matter, its the angle relative to the drag link thats important. If you still think something is wrong you may need to space your servo forward or back or use a different horn. Page 19 of manual shows the spacers. https://site.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupyz2/YZ2_Manual.pdf

I would not preorder that, the website only has renders. No pictures of the actual product or a prototype.

Replaced the worn drive pins with some fresh ones on my RC8B3.1e. Managed it without a dedicated tool in the end. UK monster don't sell them any more and all the others are daft money. I used a bike chain tool and a bench vice instead. Not actually too difficult, I would recommend trying this to anyone before buying a new driveshaft.