Fred barlow

The supplied charger takes 50 minutes to charge on our b6 it's 30 as we charge at 1/2c and never from lvc, we use the mjx for field charging as we only have 1 battery per car at the moment so we run others whilst it charges,

Yeah it does of a sorts, you get reduced power a few seconds before the lvc cuts out, Here's our video of our last bash with the mjxs https://youtu.be/9de6z_l2kWY

I've done it but it's not easy getting the duff cell out especially if it's the middle of the pack without damaging the other 2 cells and soldering to the tabs isn't easy either but if you're going to try it check the internal resistance of the rest of the cells, if it's high it's probably not worth making an RC pack but you could make power banks out of them

Unfortunately redcat has a bad rep because of the cheap Chinese chassis they used back in the late 2000 early 2010s when RTR was in it's infancy and the quality control coming out of china was the work of Stevie wonder, So many people now don't give the cars a second look but yeah it's an optical illusion or bad photo That's the market they are aiming for with it which is a good idea

The video they showed last night looked good but no proper sends though, The pd racing one has a split chassis from the look of this one they've had a 1 piece made instead (but the photos show both 1 and 2 piece chassis on the redcat listing) because the pd racing one splits in 2 quite easily from what I've read so until someone posts pics of one in the wild I'm unsure what to make of it, Someone needs to import redcats because they would slot nicely between the budget and high end and there's about 8 cars I want but because spares are not on the shelf I've held off

Looking at the lack of gasket I'd say these aren't oil diffs so I'd either look at the diff service kit for the car and see if it has one or replace the grease and send it As for a bearing puller you just pop them out with a suitably size screwdriver or if you've got clearance a bearing seating tool but with tolerances been looser than other applications they are a good push fit so you can get away with some inventive engineering

These are good but you can find the more basic versions for less on eBay https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/fusion-rc-smart-guard-3-lithium-battery-checker-and-balancer-368142 I use the battery doctor along side low voltage alarms in the cars You will need a servo plug to your chosen battery connection plug adapter to check the NiMH voltage

If you're on Facebook look up this group they bash and crawl around the north west

That was one of the quieter meets of our local bash club but unfortunately it's getting cliquey now and that's spoiling it (the guys who run it have got to being only interested in conversing with the guys who bring the expensive toys and giving them priority to run, although they never have a car running for more than 10 minutes of the session and are all budget bashers that's if they actually decide to bring them)

i've got the version 1 running, heres the video, ive got v2 ready for the test run and a marobra (marauder with cobra drive) just to finish the gearbox mount

I'd look at the mjx hyper go instead, they are 2/3s brushless machines out of the box separate reciever and esc(look at tomley RC on YouTube he's done a bash off with them both) the radios if you change to sticks you wont be able to select power level, I was looking at the 4500kv set up for my partners from now from experience you can have too much power as they are light weight and they don't have many tuning options like the bigger ones, also they are small so easier to loose track of

Try swapping the channels and see if the steering channel has the same delay

It's a easy mistake someone's made if the part of the diff the teeth point to is put in using the wrong side of the gear in the case it'll rotate the wrong direction, when you've found which axles run the wrong way all you need to do is flip the differential 180° and you'll be good to go

The kv is a bit high but not too crazy Stupid question time, are both wheels running the same direction when you have it off the ground?

It's sounding like a motor kv too high so it's not got the torque to move the car, as nitroholic suggested lack of power from the battery or a bad esc, if you've got known good motor and esc I'd swap and work from there