Redback

Req reserve with no reciver, very keen on this. ty

Bump price reduced to 130 all in, these go for more on ebay, grab a bargain.

i love beadlocks 🤪 gluing to me is ruining a set of nice tires i can put on other rims at the drop of the hat, why do people still glue? edit: ugh 1/8th yeah horrible, very thin in the lip and drop it in, or pre mount and glue the outer bead with very fine cappilary super glue, you can see it spead along the seam, apply at 1, 2, 3 o'clock and so on.

Selling this HPI Sprint 2 Flux edition, renown for their performance and durability a classic HPI. Car includes stock flux motor and esc, RX, includes HPI remote, no battery charger or body sadly. Sold as seen FWD** only, rear belt missing / removed. rear drive dogbones missing / removed. **(if the belt and dogbones are found and in good order they will be included) Well loved and in excellent working order. 150£ this includes postage and paypal fees. Any questions please ask, Thanks for looking

Yes bearing blaster to clean them out. But not often. Just when fresh ones go in or when its being serviced / deep cleaned. I also stick the axle shafts in marine grease this stops water ingressing into the diff housings. Yet to replace any diff bearings on any model.

for speed running we use rx boosters 2.4ghz can be boosted to well over 500m of range, out the box some radiolink say 150m range with higher end 500m. tho these cars are also doing 200mph and most runs happen with the driver up a 2m tower thus more range and nothing blocking line of sight on the runway to break signal. on the road i find decent signal range as it bounces off houses, basically unboosted my signal is worse on the runway.

the bottle (non spray) has lasted me years, even with loosing half over the floor, a little paintbrush has worked well for application, soak bearings in it stops them rusting. the cost may be high but the mileage is well worth it in the long run, savings on replacing things too...

People use a dog blower (big hair dryer) i use a shop vac that has a blow function, same idea tho. Wash in shower or pressure washer. Blow all the water off till dry. Recivers should be dipped in corrosion x once then be water proofed for life. Brush corrosion x over the metal parts and screws, blow it down again to spread the goodness into the nooks and holes. Yet to have a rusty car even those used on the beach will be salvagable if washed and brushed within a day.

See my post above for spares that you may need sooner than later. Brushless motor shouldnt go after a few months, they dont wear out like brushed motors, ive had motors still going after 5 years thus i dont understand that advice personally. I also feel the metal chassis from ftx are made of cheese, eg the outlaw one bent pretty easily, yet my custom carbon underpan for the ftx banzai takes hit after hit after hit at 60mph + Maybe the ftx carbon is crap, i know they dont drill the right sized holes in the shock towers, so would avoid those, tho they are still strong and havent ever broken, tho the body protects them quite a bit when they are exposed on the vantage.

Welcome. Thread lock then tighten all grub screws, eg the center cups on the drive line. Use the money for spares now as you will need them later. Upgrade spur gear to metal or acetel, upgrade brass pinion to steel. Upgrade servo to steel geared one. Spare front hinge pin holders, front lower arms, front steering hubs, spare bearings for front and rear wheel hubs. Spare grub screws as these will come loose and will be lost, spare body clips and a couple of C clips as the one on the steering servo saver will pop off and be lost fairly early on.

yes i have one, do you need the fins for the engine too?

Signal wire should be on the left side, black cable to the right side. Flip the cables around and it should work, keep servo in chan 1.

massive congratulations well done, looks like that center drive held up 😉 got the speedrun bug? scratch that itch and open them up for reals at ROSSA 👍

What issue are you having, the nitro tubing is cut and placed into the cups too help stop backlash on the shaft, the other bit of tubing i put in the center of the main drive dogbone then covered it in shrink wrap till it fitted in the bearing, i wasnt able to get a bearing on the center dogbone due to the pins, thus this holds it enough to prevent it bending, doesn't need to do anything more than stop the oscillating vibration that then causes the failure.

This is why i have this shaft supported by a bearing and cut down motor mount. Ive never had this fail, due to pre expecting it to fail and planning accordingly. Gl with your fix and sending it again. Sure is a weak spot but no worries once sorted.