wolfie1

Is it touchscreen?

It probably ran lean when you were filling it and it blew the glow plug, when running nitros think of a glow plug like a disposable item

I think its 1 of those things that would need to be sat and looked at in person to get to the bottom of

Does both sides of the steering hit the driveshaft when turning lock to lock

From that video it looks like the horn on the servo isint centred correctly as it looks like the steering assembly goes further 1 way than it does the other, are the steering links the same length left and right as they should be if not they have been adjusted to compensate for this

I have 1 of these trucks and it really could do with a new body, its just tatty looking now but traxxas no longer supports this model, the slayer pro body is longer and wider so wont fit but just wonder if a slash of some kind would fit, could someone who has a slash please measure the wheelbase, length and width of their body so i can know for sure? I dont want to waste £50 on a body that wont fit? Thanks Another question the wheels and tyres will be the same size on all of the variants in 1/10?

Just buy this thing and plug it in, 1 goes to the receiver 1 goes to power and the other goes to your servo, simples https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/modelsport-rx-receiver-bypass-adapter-for-use-with-bec-443152

Are the clear bodies not stronger than the stock ones for the maverick though?

Got to try the new wheely bar today, it was a success until it wasnt, 1 of the bolts holding the wheels on decided to come loose and fall off, luckily i found everything apart from a washer, so put it back together with a drop of loctite and then it fell off again so i decided to redesign it a bit, originally the wheels were held on with an m4 bolt for each pair but it was obvious a lot of loctite would be needed but i was concerned if the bolt snapped there would be no way of getting it out again, so drilled out the holes to 5mm and run an m6 tap down it so i could use an m6 bolt, i drilled out all the spacers to m6 except the ones that the wheels and bearings run on there just wouldnt be enough material to hold it to drill, so used some nylon airline pipe for this. So thats it all back together again with an m6 bolt and plenty loctite i thought this made a cool pic

Since i replaced the rear bulkhead no I haven’t, i wouldnt have thought that was the cause of all my diff problems as there wasnt any play once they were built up but there must have been something as its good now, probably run 12-15 sets of batteries through it now since and so far so good 🙂 I did also change the rear diff covers to alloy ones like the newest xmaxx so something must have been flexing on full power

What about putting solder inside the blue pipe, it would be very easy to bend and would stay how you left it

Always though the original wheely bar was too springy, so thought i would give something else a go, seen this on aliexpess and thought i would give it a go since i am running an aftermarket anti roll bar it wouldnt fit with this wheely bar so had to do a little mod by drilling 2 new holes in it to attach it too

You either have it too rich or lean turn the hsn 1/4 in 1 direction and try if it wont start or its worse go back to the original setting then turn it 1/4 turn in the opposite way you turned it the first time failing that try a new glow plug and start again. Once you get it running its just a case of adjusting the needles a little bit at a time till it runs right, there is many many videos on you tube describing this

Do you guys really think its that dumb an idea to even attempt, i just dont like wasting stuff

So i have 2 faulty lipo batteries, both have 1 duff cell, was contemplating making 1 good battery out of the 2, is there anything in particular i need to watch out for, i will discharge the batteries to the lowest my charger will take them too before i start this endeavour? These are 10000mah batteries and i run 2 at a time was thinking of buying a new 10400 battery to use as the pair for it. When the batteries died it was really cold outside with snow on the ground, they were in my workshop up to then so were stone cold before i started using them and the lipo cutoff was at the lowest setting on the esc, i do think all these factors played a part in the batteries becoming faulty, now i take them inside the night before i am going to use them so they are at room temperature and has set the esc to the medium cut off and havent had an issue since