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Took the minis out for a run with the kiddos. It's a nice change of pace from the madness of 1/8 bashers 🙂

Hi Guys, I bought a new Kyosho RC Ferrari F40 about 30-years ago and I've kept it in a box ever since - it was ran three times. I was hoping that some wise RC'er could tell me more about it please; i.e. was it a good car and what chassis etc? Pics below for reference. Thanks in advance, Andrew P.S. 30-years is a long time to remember techy stuff

I’ve posted a few times previously when I’ve done rc related projects, but not specifically to any of my models. So, thought it was high time a new thread is started for people to show off their model display building skills, work stations, battery storage etc etc. so to kick things off, I have been working in a bit of a mess for some time, and it’s only gotten worse with time as the collections grown. Today I put up some more shelving and also a wall mounted storage and tool organiser. Space is something I don’t have much of, so organising it a bit has made a huge difference; I can see my desk again!! 😁 next time I’m to do any work on the cars/trucks, it will be more enjoyable, less stressful, and probably quicker now I know where everything is.

Before i got my Kronos i was going to go for a Kraton Then the Kronos came out and i preferred the look of that over the Kraton so started looking at Kronos v Kraton vids and although the Kronos did break the Kraton didnt seem to fair as well as the Kronos in the vids i saw Then my son @Yrkoon jumped in and got a v1 Kronos lol so i waited on the v2's to come out and got 1 Were both very pleased with the Corally offering tho

Depends what you are trying to achieve. There is nothing wrong with the stock setup, but any truck can be made to go faster. Add a longer can motor ( if there is room) and you will get more torque, allowing higher gearings and more speed. It will also put more stress on just about every part of the drivetrain. When you upgrade a motor....do not expect it to stop there. As an example.....I put a 4282 motor into a Hobao truggy. A truck wioth a rep for being bulletproof. A 4078 would be more normal....but I wanted POWAAAA!!!! Centre diff stripped on first pack. Rebuilt and shimmed it. Stripped it again and tore 2 tyres off the rims. Locked up the centre diff....then blew a front and twisted a driveshaft. The diff had got so hot the plastic case had melted and the oil dribbled out. Rebuilt it ....then fried the ESC. I think there had been another driveline fail, which had taken the ESC over the edge and volcanoed it. Repaired the driveline...and sold the car as a roller. I had managed to kill it every run in less than a full pack. Running 5S....not the 6S I had planned. To make it work, I would have needed to rebuild and shim front and rear diffs with alloy cases, swapped the centre for a 6 planetary spider setup, fitted new wheels and tyres with heavily banded foams, and then...just maybe...it would have been usable. But, even when it did run..all it did was wheelie under power and cartwheel all over the place. It just stopped being fun. Since then, I have been careful to keep the car perfomance in a comfort zone where it can be run as long as I want, and where the handling and power are matched. So...basically....carefully consider what you want to end up with. It may be a lot less fun than you hope.

I guess many of us know about that all too well 😄 Welcome!

That was a 2wd chassis based on the raider. Some say it was 4wd but i have not seen a box that shows it

Indeed and ill add that when you round a hex head, those funny sized drivers will extract the screws when the correct sized ones wont 😉

Been messing with a new to me element enduro. Cut wheel arch to fit the bigger wheels I had. Droped shell as low as possible. Should be fun to play with. Hardbody with a ton of upgrades and extras with it

I might need the extra cash to help pay for all the things I intend to buy, lol. I did think about selling a kidney to pay for this new RC habit of mine but selling the Kyosho F40 might be easier

Might be wrong but the chassis looks same as the Ford RS500 cosworth i had, these things are fetching a fair coin these days

Hobbyking is the go to place for Lipo`s and chargers, but only order from the EU not global and watch shipping cost, even look at ebay for charger, and HK for lipo`s

Good points indeed, many thanks ;-) I bought my FTX Outlaw BL for £240 from my local shop whereas I could have bought it for £40+ cheaper and that included free P&P too. The missus said that we should buy local or else we'll lose the shop if people didn't use it but I've got to admit that I had a hard time paying the extra dosh. I now need extra lipo batteries, chargers and a few spares, plus potentially a new RC model so that bundle will cost another £100 if I go local - so I'm now torn between buying local and saving my hard earned cash - and £110 is a whole load of money which I can use for other things. Cheers, Andrew

The price difference will be largely down to buying power, shops like MS can buy in larger quantities and some might be down to greed and or overheads

no worries buggy that site tamiyaclub is great for vintage cars they know there stuff over there man

the one swf got has some good mods, if i do get one then it would be swf.

some good info on here buddy https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=87797&id=5484

I think i should dust of the Vantage soon, charge up some 4s lipo`s and fit the speed flea back to it (took it out to check speed on some planes) might give it a run over xmas hols if the weather plays fair

Yeah they are great at "tearing up" the grass 😂 Decorated with flowers, how delightful 😛

That looks sweet @Ant.p!

I sold what I had over 10 years ago. It was a Losi Mini 8ight, Traxxas Slash 4x4 and a Hong Nor 1/8 buggy of some sort. I regret moving them on. My brother bought round his Mini 8ight and 2WD Slash for me to fix last week. I've got the Slash working. In tinkering about I've got bitten by the bug once again and remembered how much I love messing with RC cars. On that basis I bought my son a mini E Revo for Christmas and treated myself to a Team Associated 1/8 buggy kit. I am now skint and my wife is unhappy, but I can't wait for the postman today. I have no doubt I will need to draw on the forum for some much needed advice as I progress with my build. Take care Nick

The majority is due to the deals struck with suppliers, there are a couple of retailers though that have much lower overheads (couple of employees, small premise etc) that can run on smaller margins.

Maybe theyre just been more accurate this time. I think 60mph on the old electrics on 4S is optimistic. Lets be honest 60mph off road is silly. I have no proof of this, this is just my idea, but you may be able to ‘power up’ to the E Revo 2.0 system?

Indeed. My brothers Slash and my son's Xmas E Revo will be covered nicely. It just hurt a little as I had already bought a set of shock pliers today and shock stand yesterday 😆

I appreciate the top tip. Many thanks ;-)

Brilliant, thanks mate. I'll watch that tonight while the missus views 'I'm a celebrity get me out of here'.

cant beat the old skool promo hehe

I'll take a look - thanks again for the advice ;-)

Probably best to hang fire on these. @Tomley RChas released a video today on the much improved V2. Still not got around to changing the motor in my V1 but kind of wish I had pushed more to just get the thing sent back!

Thanks good mate - you're a real star. I've just read the link and it appears that I must have bought it in 1989-1990 which fits with what I was doing at the time......so even older than I first thought. You've been a big help, Andrew

Everything is still straight and tight on mine, no other problems or issues since fitting the new hubs and everytime i take it out i'm jumping over 8 feet and backflipping it so it's taking a good amount of abuse. Even after horrific landings that should have destroyed something it just shrugs it off apart from when i land on it's front which is when the diff cases are breaking i think. It's obviously my fault but like i said i'm hoping the tower brace can help with that or i need to get better at landing 😂😂 I think mines gonna stay parked up for a month or 2 now, not that i don't want to go out with it, it's just too bloody cold at the minute haha

Theres a gap between the Motor and ESC so guessing its a longer chassis

Ok cheers, I think i'll wait til they are in the UK, I'll drop CML an e-mail and ask if they know when they are coming! I need the brace, i've broke 3 diff casings in exactly the same place now so hoping it will help lol 😁

Nice, where did you get the T-T brace and pistons from? I refuse to pay £15 postage again from Corally 😂

Welcome aboard. I think the fact you've got a son to enjoy this hobby with as well as your brother by the sounds of it too will help keep you interested again for decades to come. Have fun.

Apparently so, back in 2019, 46 years old

Build one from scratch, drop me a PM if you want the bits I've used.

HPI RS4 Sport 3 is what I would buy. Its pretty cheap, well made, sealed drivetrain, oil shocks, full bearings etc. I'd also buy the adjustable link kit... weird how that's not included, but oh well! It's a good car and with the sealed, shaft-drive drivetrain & metal-shielded bearings, it would be ideal for hooning around a car park. https://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/118000 You also have the Tamiya TT-01 & TT-02 variants. LOADS of upgrades, mods & customisations available, but poor spec from the box and require a raft of upgrades... just to get to a comparable level to a box-fresh HPI Sport 3. I'd choose the HPI, definitely. Alternatively, if you can find a good, used (or new-old stock) Team Associated TC4, that's also a great carpark car. Shame Associated have discontinued the TC line. I wouldn't go "all-in", for a racing-spec Yokomo, Xray, or Schumacher. Not for car park racing. Way too expensive, fragile and belt-drives can suffer in the presence of grit and stones.

Brian Kinwald died? 😞

A new race buggy, have to wait for Christmas though, as my wife paid half as my present

And so it begins.

zim zim zimma who got da keys to my beemer 👍 thats a cool drifter man !!

I got a nice big shell and a few little bits and pieces to go with the TRX4 kit today. I have a sneaking feeling I might need to order some more paint before I can finish this one.

I picked up a 3000 series about 8 years ago, it's been flawless. I had a cheaper one however I found it was no where near as good.

Antics comes up as one of the three but in reality they're absolutely useless when it comes to RC. Toy grade junk and static models models are as close as they get. Jonathan at Nimrif is excellent. Truly passionate about the hobby and always happy to help 🙂

Popped to the LHS today to find they're closing down. I bought up a few cheapos that had been replaced under warranty, all in need of a little work but not much. Worked out very nicely as I've been after something small and fairly slow I can bash around with the kids 🙂

Very quick delivery from modelsport.

Always Modelsport for me as they are very easy to deal with if and when things go bad. I don't have loads of hobbies but this seems to be one where out of the box issues are common. It came up in another thread but I think 'RTR' is a bit of a joke with an expectation on the end-user to check and correct manufacturing mistakes. Therefore, I place higher weight on after sales service rather than rock bottom pricing. Not all shops are equal however and I am currently getting a little annoyed with another company who seem to just be ignoring my emails (not naming names yet).

Modelsport is great however if you have a local model shop it might be worth paying them a visit as well, some are 💩 and others a great.

2 very good places will be Modelsport or Wheelspin models