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Saturday I gave my FTX Tracer Truggy it's first run, what a cracking lil thing. Well worth the full price and definately worth the 4 quid I spent on raffle tickets lol. Also gave the BSD Beach Rocket a controlled blast (too many people for consistant full throttle runs). It's now had two 3s packs through it with no breakage so I'm happy. Sunday I stripped and cleaned the gearbox in the Mauler and popped a set of metal gears in ready for the SST. Also removed the front propshaft which will be replaced by an Axial Wildboar to match the rear. Sunday evening gave me my first outdoor heli experience with the WL Toys V911S that a mate gave me.

It was Friday, but the postie brought me an FTX Tracer Truggy that I'd won in a raffle on Faceache. Best 4 quid I've spent in ages.

Got an SCX10 chassis and set about building a basher, not a shelfer. had no idea what shell to use, everything seemed to be out of stock or mega bucks. While having a clear out found a chinese clone D90 shell and started thinking..... Few days later I had a couple of ideas and set off, not really sure what I was doing or which way it would end up Anyway, masking tape and a pencil..... Lots of dust, bits glue and filler .... Sanded, painted and this is the result Not sure which way the rear is going to end up, trayback, cage or maybe just as is. Whatever, it is going to be a used and abused Few more bits on their way and more pics as I progress 👍

I'd agree with the 36mm can being a bit small for a truggy. It won;t have the torque of a larger motor, and that will mean it would be working harder and pulling more amps. But....you initial motor failing, and lockingup...causing the wires to melt. ..... . melting wires means it pulled a significant amount of current, far more than it should be. That is going to cause a lot of stress on the ESC, and probably cooked it to the point of no return. Putting in a lower KV motor and lowering the gearing won;t have caused any major problem, aside from the motor not being an ideal choice with those large chunky tyres. I run 4074 motors as a minimum on something with wheels like those....with 150A Quicrun ESC's as they offer good performance for the price. But when I googled the specs of your Surpass Hobby 3670 motor....it states 4S max So.....you cooked a motor, stressed the ESC, then stuffed in a 4S max motor and run it on 6S on a budget ESC. If I am honest...I would have been amazed if it HADN'T gone up in smoke. I suspect the motor may have been quite warm too The 'solution' is to use a better motor and a better ESC. Also..as Bajadre mentioned, check your gearing. 23T on a pinion sounds quite large....but a proper gear calculation allowing for your wheels will help you get that right. Then your electrics will last longer.

One of my mates is desperate for more biker mates so he spent 3 hours yesterday teaching me bike and clutch control on his 6mo Royal Enfield Himalayan. My partners old neighbour is a farmer and he let us use one of his fields (Wet grass lol). He even came up and had a quick ride himself. I now have a lid and a jacket (need to slim down) so after a few more sessions on the Himmy I'll be going for the CBT. Watch this space..................................................................................................................................

Not used Jennys RC for a while, these bits to convert a Slash 1/16 to a Revo came very quickly. However. Plans have changed 😕 Ive got another 2 orders on the way from them too 😕 haha

I’ve been careful so far. Finish each one off manually. The torque settings pretty good too. Won’t turn if the resistance builds.

Nah I’ve had them both and the longer chassis outperformed the shorter version

When you say it was a 2100Kv ....the actual size of the motor is VERY important too. All the KV rating is telling you is how high it will rev for a given voltage. Now if your motor was the Trackstar 4365 unit Hobbyking sell in a lot of combos ...thats only rated to 4S ..... and prolonged running on 6S has probably got it too hot, debonded the magnets...and that's what jammed up your motor. I am sure it ran great on 6S...but it didn't run for long.... Before you buy any motor.....check its specifications match what you intend to do. I gave up running high voltage in 1/8, as the wear rate on components meant I was spending too much time fixing stuff. Chewing up diffs if they weren;t perfectly meshed, ripping tyres, and whilst wheelies can be fun...they get boring so fast when its all the car does..... I stick to 4S, as its fast enough for most places I can run my cars, and parts last so much longer. It's all specced enough to take 6S...but it lasts on 4S. Cheap 6S running....just don't. A good 150A ESC as a minimum, along with a decent 4 pole 4074 motor, assuming your truck isn't too heavy. I would keep it around the 2000Kv mark.... ideally a 1900Kv for torque Then REALLY check your gearing with a gear calculator. This will mean checking diff ratios, spur gear and wheel sizes. You can burn any ESC by getting this wrong. If your truck needs an 18T pinion and you put in a 23T .... pop. So, work it out properly, and don;t rely on someone else having done the maths here. Bear in mind, however, that you are running on the limit at 6s, with this setup, and long grass, or getting bogged a bit....well... So get a temp gun, and monitor your motor and ESC and be prepared to be conservative with gearing. If the calculator says 19T ..... then I would get a 17/18 and 19....and start with the 17 This is about as 'cheap' as a 6S setup can be and have any measure of reliability. Budget to spend around £200 by the time you bought pinions. And if you screw up the gearing..... FlyInMySoup's suggestion is to go the big route. Those components are better than you need....and able to haul a bigger load than you are going to have. This gives you a margin for safety, and a gear ratio a tooth out won;t hurt it. But.....you will see the prices have gone quite a lot higher than the budget setups........

The FTX highrock is a solid choice, i like mine, cheap metal axles / hopups and as tough as an old boot. Alternatively look at the Element RC Enduro platform a bit more expensive but way better shocks and overdrive transmission.

Just buy a proper ESC, not a cheapo rubbish Hobbyking one. The one you had is terribly unreliable Put a Hobbywing Max 8 or even a Quicrun 150a. Id also look at a bigger motor, a 36 series is a touch small for a Truggy in my opinion

Decided this is not for me, only been run a couple of times, this is the new 80+ HD model, comes boxed with TX just add 2s or 3s lipo, i have replaced shock oil with 450 light oil as the stuff they put in is like super heavy, has marks from use underneath, one bad point of this model it cogs badly on low throttle give me £70 plus £10 shipping paypal fee paid , so best to round up to £83, including paypal fee and shipping, this was £179 new a short time back, if your just bombing round a skatepark you wont notice the cogging issue, it will ship to regular UK address for this price, in original maverick box with any instructions and or tools that it came with. Lot of car for not a lot of money

So we've just recently moved house and I've now got a rather large double garage to use. So the important things first of course, a nice big shelf rack to display my RC cars in a much more organised fashion. & because I've got a lot more space to play with now I'm thinking about building an indoor obstacle course, the track starting from the top of the shelf unit and finishing up back in the same place. I think it might be quite a fun little project

Thanks for the advice i know most of these high end brand motors are all cloned somewhere made by the same people just a different sticker and sold on a different site 🤷🏻‍♂️ Tbh warranty with these products seems to be a myth considering hobbyking have disabled my account over asking about it 🤣 Mastercard it is

so much clone gear around in rc chris tbh honestly you wont go wrong with a max 8 combo there great quality brother ive had mine for over 3yrs in a D8T truggy mostly run it on 6s too no worries even in summer heat and dust .can go down to 3s too bit s,low due to weight but great places with not much room like forests etc glad you found your gearing problem now that will save any future hassle 🙂 i have to do the same with i run bigger MT wheels too and gear down to a 14/15t pinion. i ended up replacing the max motor with a castle 2000kv didnt need too just mate had a spare at the time and ill felt it had a little more torque

A car that is going into long term storage See how much it is worth in the future.

4cm shorter and a decent build rather than thrown together rtr makes a difference

I posted a video of my DC-1's first run and @Stormbringer mentioned that the drivetrain was a bit noisy compared to his and @Yrkoon due to the high spot. I live meshed it while the motor was running and it is a lot better now, but apart from a 1/18 scale FTX mini have nothing to compare it to. For the high spot itself, I wonder the gear itself is perfectly round, but the hole in the spur is a fraction oversize compared to its axle and no matter where we put it it will always have a high spot. I'm not about to pull it apart to check, but food for thought

Your F150 is identical mate other than the extra 4cm wheelbase

And cost twice as much whem you have to replace the plastic parts 😞 (I cheat and use one too ;))

Still think a well built Coyote V1 is a darn good rig, for ages this model was rocking it at all the big events, i came very close to getting the kit recently but got side tracked by the Hobao DC1, but then im good at getting it wrong with cars

The only other 1 i have to compare it with is the Wendigo and that was same as DC1 noise wise

My sons 1 was noisey but he adjusted the mesh and it quietened it down a lot , there is a high spot on the spur gear on ours and he adjusted it to that I have since changed my 1's motor and its now noisier than it was maybe i will have a look soon lol It might even be down to what noise the motor makes as well mate

Have to say if you got to modelsport and pick up the original coyote kit, build it nice you will have a great crawler

No mate take off was immense wheelie machine

Just checked $2,799 list price with discount! I'll take two 👍 🤣

Looks brilliant - probably £2k!!!

https://www.facebook.com/782632125252596/posts/1908759095973221/ New 2.1 Coyote Kit, also doing a Range Rover one. Same price apparently, so guess they will need to clear the old stock.

Spot on!

DC1 question..... ....would you guys that have them and use them say the driveline is a tad noisy compared to other crawlers, mine is but not a problem as far as i see it

Wow, looks like a beast, I have a combo with Hobbywing 1080 and this same motor 550 but in 12T for spares or a possible new project.

Cheers. Ive ordered some

Great Job Davy !! would look great with a cage on rear 👍

yeah still have 4 of the 3000mah ones still charge great after almost 2 years now @Kpowell911Search drone lipos too buddy plenty of 2 size ones they do depends on size wise you need to fit in the truck. those turnigys look good if like u said they fit mate and for that price just change to deans etc i pay 8 quid odd for 500mah 2s drone lipos now

Nice 1 mate

Your doing just great with that

Having a lazy day today, not much getting done other than stuffing me fat face 😁 Did manage to put a new pinion on the Twin Hammers though

Been a bit quiet in here for a while so... Had no issues with loose wheel nuts since using Loctite so that's good. Had to buy a pair of Proline Badlands as the MT10 wheels/tyres were out of stock after stripping a hex in one of the wheels. They are really grippy ( were spraying me with sand when I ran the truck!) but have made it it a bit understeery. Have swapped then to the front and used the wider hubs to give more clearance - hoping to get back the power slide hooligan it was when using all four MT10 tyres. Also fitted the Associated alloy shock upgrade and it is really smooth on landing jumps etc. Will report back on the handing after the wheel swop round. If anyone has a spare standard MT10 wheel going spare please let me know 🙂

Started my next little project... My all time favourite F1 car is the FW08B, it was never raced however I've seen it at several events and loved it. It's 4 wheel drive and uses 4 wheels at the rear to drive it. The FIA outlawed them before the season started as they were too quick. The body is a 98T, the last to use the John player special livery! I'm going between a hybrid of two of my favourite F1 cars.

The turnigy ones please as long as all cells are healthy, thats the lot 🙂

DIY... I need to give the wood another coat of paint however it's looking ok. I've got plans to fill the 3rd spot however 4th is TBC but will no doubt a 210-225mm wheelbase as I've got a lorry shell.

2s & 3s Speed Runs coming next week... (recording this weekend if the weather plays nice!)

yes, there's a buggy version too

@capri-boy That looks awesome mate, really suits it

Just fitted my new 25t pinion to my ftx vantage brushless buggy Waiting for locktite to cure before I test it out 👌👌👌

Awesome looking shell. Very Mclaren-like

wow, powerful bike, slightly jealous 😄 yeah, most of us if not all, put their cars up on a stand. you can either buy them or just use some sort of biscuit tin or a box. i have never left my car on a floor, always on something to avoid ruining your tyres.

Finally done... A few bits aren't perfect however overall I'm happy with how it turned out. I still need a new bumper and to add adjustable turn buckles. I'm gonna get a new chassis next time I make another order with MS. I also need to order a load of m3x10 hex screws to get rid of the stock ones.

Do love a nice V-Twin.... had an SV1000, Guzzis....currently have a 883 Midlife Crisis