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Everything posted by Nitroholic

  1. Mine lives out in the shed. But my 'shed' has a lot of space. The important thing is store it somewhere cool, and out of direct sunlight. UV is not kind to it, and warm conditions will evaporate the volatiles.
  2. How old is the ESC? nothing lasts forever. Could just be the ESc has an issue unrelated to the puddle or anything you did. Just happens sometimes.
  3. Taking your questions kind of in reverse order.... A larger capacity battery will give you longer run times not more speed. To get more speed, you would need to do other things. Higher voltage packs give more speed, but it is unlikely the stock electrics would be able to handle this. A higher mAh pack than the 700 supplied is available and at 1300mAh will mean you can run quite a bit longer before a recharge. Any bigger, and you may well run into space issues. As they list it as an option...that pack will fit. Brushed motors basically have the fixed magnets in the case, and spin a coil of wire inside it. It needs brushes to allow the battery to power up the coil to generate the magnetic field to spin the motor. Brushes mean friction and wear. Brushless puts the fixed magnet on the spinning bit...and then energises coils in the case in a series of pulses to spin it. Much less friction. Much better efficiency. More power as a result. You could potentially fit a brushless motor, but you would also have to swap the ESC ( unless they state the ESC is able to run brushless motors ) ...and in this case, as its combined, the radio gear too. You're also now going to need to upgrade the driveline to cope with the extra power, or suffer a loss in reliability. Which brings us to... Upgrades. They list a few upgrades such as a metal spur gear, machined diff gears and outdrives, adjustable shocks and metal driveshafts/CV axles. Now...I don't know what it is getting as stock, but it looks like there are plastic gears in the diff, and plastic driveshafts ... then brushless will destroy those in fairly short order. Replace with the improved parts if the stock ones fail. The real thing you need to think about is whether investing £50-£100 in this truggy is worth the expense. £30 would upgrade both the diffs to machined gears, another £7 for a metal spur. £20 for ally bodied shocks...then £50 for a brushless motor and ESC, and new radio gear.... I would hold off upgrading...and put that money towards a bigger and better vehicle. Spare parts for breakages, however, are always worth having. Upper and lower suspension arms, suspension uprights and shock towers. Plus wheel hexes and wheel nuts. I'd also pick up a metal spur gear for when that strips. Just don;t go crazy as you might never actually need them
  4. Byrons or Optifuel Race blend is what I have always used. Optifuel RTR is too oily and smoky. Sadly, Byrons is no more....but Optifuel Race blend is still readily available
  5. Depends .....as I have a lot of fun running an old nitro Firestorm I converted to brushless. It's 2WD, tail happy, and on 3S ....a challenge to drive. Which is why it's fun. I didn;t want the stock Firestorm Flux, as it hangs the motor out the back, while my conversion has it mid mounted. Rustler is a fun truck, but buy a good used one with some RPM upgrades. New they are just silly money for what they are. An old, outdated design, with poor electrics. Traxxas should either drop the price or upgrade the spec, but they keep getting buyers, so they just jazz up the stickers on the shell and bank the cash. But if you were thinking of spending Traxxas kind of money ......well....THIS thing is utterly drop dead gorgeous to my eyes: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/kyosho-turbo-scorpion-2wd-kit-405386 along with a reasonable brushless setup and servo.
  6. Nope...Birmingham is fake. Unless you show whats inside it,
  7. you forgot to demand to see the internals of the stepladder..... real stepladder users don't hide the inside.
  8. Jeez ...the orange car in the Jeep is NOT the same car he runs on the road. You can CLEARLY see it still in the car while the one he ran was on the tarmac. If the only reason for saying this is fake is because he didn;t open up the car and show all the internals, then pretty much every world speed record car is fake...because I don;t recall them stripping down the vehicle to show the internals. He is faking it becuase he didn;t show you what you wanted to see. Post up your video of you doing better, so we can all accuse you of cheating, faking and otherwise making fraudulent claims.....then you can see what it's like when folks decide to fire off random accusations with absolutely no evidence whatsoever. Your follow up posts just reinforce the fact that you actually have nothing useful, insightful or serious to challenge the validity of the video.
  9. Yeah ... the XT is a bit pricier at £199 for brushless, but they do at least include decent electrics, and the XT platform is upgraded over the earlier and cheaper Maverick offerings.
  10. steering is usually channel 1.... When its running l;ike in the video, did you try operating the steering on the transmitter?
  11. If you were happy with the Quantum Flux MT ...why not get her an XT ? A lot of common parts, same electrics, same performance, just a different look. Just a shade over the £170 budget...but...
  12. sounds like previous owner stripped hte glowplug thread, and tried to find a replacement....almost succeeded too
  13. First thing I would wonder is whether it's the right head for the motor. Secondly, is the liner seated properly? Normally, the head sits in a slight recess to get a good seal. If hte liner isn't sat right, the cooling head won;t sit right either. Doesn;t take much of a gap to lose compression, and it simply won;t run right, as you have a massive air leak there, blowing out fuel and sucking in air when the piston should be shoving fuel mix up the transfer ports. You have no chance of getting it to run right until you sort the leak.
  14. This isn't styled like a crawler. It's styled like a racer. I like the looks, and have always liked this style of solid axle buggy, but the big question would have to be durability. Prety sure Carson are not going to be the maker of this, as they are usually rebranding the generic Chinese trucks, which mean it gets sold under a load of different badges and names. Wonder if it is going to be sold as FTX etc. If its cheap enough and durable enough... I;d give one a go
  15. Because it's a Trackstar ..... Or, on a more sensible note, it could be fluff settling on the internals keeping damp in there and allowing corrosion to happen. This could disrupt or short a track on the board, leading to a dead ESC.
  16. Your problem will be the wheelbase. There are other 1/24 scale bodies out there, but whether they will fit and work is another question altogether. You need the right width, and wheelbase so the wheels sit in the arches and look correct. Might be worth you measuring the width ( outer edge of tyre - outer edge of tyre ) and the wheelbase ( distance from front axle to rear) plus, maybe the wheel diameter. That way, if people have small RC shells, they can check them without hte need for them to have actually bought and tested them on the little Charisma
  17. defintely body clips! I'd also get one of these: https://www.evolutionmodels.co.uk/product/tt-041-multiple-hex-spanner-wrench/ Lots of similarly branded ones out there, but I wouldn;t go out without mine. Both for adjusting tie rods and as a general spanner for the sizes you are going to find on an RCR
  18. Well obviously you would be stupid to buy a boat ..... you buy TWO boats to be sensible. Then...when the first boat capsizes or breaks down in the middle of hte pond...the second boat goes out to recover it. Now, the second boat MIGHT also run into difficulties...so a third boat is a sensbile precaution. And a hovercrafgt
  19. check your glowplug is lighting up good and strong on the igniter .... check your idle setting... make sure you are priming the motor properly and that fuel is getting through.... but not flooding. A starter box will just crank your engine longer... if there is something not right, it's not going to solve the problem. An engine heater will make it easier to turn the engine over, but again...I can start any of my nitro motors without one on days where it's not really cold.
  20. The Traxxas suggested up there is probably the most well known, longest lived and best supported in terms of parts, upgrades etc. It's got everything you need in the box, but it's a brushed motor with NiMh batteries. What that means is that, whilst it is very easy to upgrade to brushless and make it a lot faster...the battery, motor, ESC and charger will all be replaced. It's an old design.....but tough as old boots. I have a Stampede, the 2WD monster truck version of basically the same platform. It's been upgraded, messed with and hammered for years. Personally...I hate Traxxas and their money grabbing....and personally think a design this old should not be this pricey..... but....If you want a truck that you can still be hammering years from now, when then that's it. Over time, you will want better servos, brushless motor, new ESC and of course, LiPo batteries and charger.....but the basic car can handle a LOT more power. Mine has had the full works, and the only thing I notice is drive shafts don;t last as long. The Strada is a decent budget truck, and gives you quite a lot in terms of bang for your buck. Not as tough as the Rustler, but it is brushless, so will have more speed. It comes with a battery...but it's a NiMh pack...so expect cogging and performance dropoff. Run times will improve with LiPo, but you would need battery and charger to suit...which again will push the budget up a little. The Kyosho and Losi probably offer less in terms of value for money. The Losi is smaller.....and the Kyosho needs battery and charger....so final price will be well above the £200 by the time you run that one. The Corally and Team Associated I don;t know...Corally does look interesting, but check for spares support etc. Thats key to long life and enjoyment of your new truck.
  21. My only reason for preferring brushless is that when I have gone LiPo on a brushed motor...it's died very fast. Admittedly, these were not high end motors....but even so. They got very hot, and very dead. Brushless gave longer run times, and a longer life. But...a 15T would be a step up in performance on NiMh, just not quite as much. A MadBull on brushless ought to be a lot of fun though.
  22. Nice 🙂 Especially as there was actually nothing I could suggest new for sub £200.
  23. This is why I suggest contacting the airline ahead of travel and getting a response. Being able to pull out a response from the airline stating it's OK, laying down any conditions and showing you complied tends to shut up the awkward person, and gives you some comeback in the event of real problems.
  24. Something like a Quicrun 60A should be OK ...couple ot with a 4-pole 3300Kv 3660 motor, and it should be fun enough on 2S LiPo. I think the Mad Bull is an opld school 540 motor. The only thing to avoid with the motors is the ones with deep finned cooling grooves on the case. They are not true 540 motors, but actually smaller rotors in a can made to look larger than it ought. The big wheels on your MadBull need torque, and thopse motors won;t have any.
  25. Oil shocks will make a big difference over tired Tamiya friction damped ones. Running brushless on NiMh isn;t really worth doing. You won't see the benefit really. Running your brushed motor on LiPo, though, would mean you get a lot less voltage dropoff. Might wear your motor out faster though..... If you go brushless, so for a fairly mild setup. The MadBull driveline isn;t really intended to take a lot of power, and you will run into gearing issues.
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