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Hi guys just wanted to share this with you biggest meet up we've had.

FB makes me laugh, I’m on Arrma 8s group and some of the stuff I see is hilarious like using wood glue as a thread lock for screws going into plastic 😂

Finally made it to see these guys after the original show should've been in 2020. Probably one of the best bands to see live.

The StreetKeeper got some new shoes today courtesy of Louise RC. I wasnt originally sure on using 2.8 truggy wheels and tyres but upon fitting I am definitely sold, gves the car a nice stance!!!

Got a new motor to replace the interim 3652 Hobbywing... Surpass Hobby Rocket 3674 2500kv.

Made a shortie flatbed for the Element Enduro. About £4 worth of aluminium, a sheet of styrene and some dodgy fabrication skills. Really can’t decide what I want to do with this truck. Not 100% happy with it, but it definitely helps with approach/exit angle. Hoping it might look better after a couple of coats of matte black. Might add a roll bar too?

I had a fun day out at east anglia scale trail where I managed to empty three 5200mah packs in the trx4 and almost lose one of my boots to some mud, twice. Can’t say I’ve been to any other organised trail events before but I suspect I’ll be trying to get back to this one next year if I can. EDIT: forgot to mention that the bigger 4.7” tyres didn’t seem to cause any more issues with rubbing on the shell than the class 1 wheels so they ended up staying on the truck all day.

I'm actually South Edinburgh so I use a few spots in Midlothian. Mainly woodland spots and park areas (when out with the family). Nothing stellar unfortunately. I think the best spots are on the west side of Edinburgh on the old bings but I'm yet to get out there. What I'd really love to find is a decent rock crawling spot rather than just woodland trails. Loads of places on the coast out in East Lothian but it's a bit of a trek and the salt water is a 'mare for the trucks. How about yourself?

Had the Lasernut and the Lunchbox out today, Kids drove the Lunchbox, (had to turn the speed down on it for them). Two very different cars, but great fun. The rear LEDs did not survive, snapped off where the wire goes into the led, will look at another way of holding them in place.

dad and i mostly just go to craigie quarry and the surrounding wood lands that go around the quarry, there is a lot of work going on at the quarry though during the day now and not sure what its gonna end up like when their finished with it 🙂

i know that feeling glen me and my buddy were both running truggys once in a group i went over the far berm corner and was watching his car the rest of the lap as i rejoiced at him crossing the line first, he let me know i was stuck in the bushes behind the berm my face was a picture 😆made it worst cos the walk of shame followed lol love the banter with mates racing starts off so relaxed at first haha

Been an age since I wrote this. Thought I'd update. 1. I bought a Wendigo 2. I fitted and hated an AXE3300KV system (it didn't coast properly whatever their lit says) 3. Fitted a Castle Mamba X combo. Delighted with it 4. Took off the stock tyres and fitted a set of mini monster truck type tyres: 5. Lowered the truck by messing with the shock towers to lower the actual body and fitting front shocks on the rear (the stock rear ones are longer than the front and make it really tippy). 6. Changed shock oil to 25wt (IIRC). The upshot was a really nice truck. Basically a mini monster truck in terms of its handling except possibly a bit smoother as it sort of glides over the terrain in a way that the stock setup did not (really bouncy). It is really quite fast on 3S. Certainly far faster than a ladder chassis truck can corner 🙂 But, like I say, something about the setup means it glides along over lumpy terrain pretty well provided you're careful with the steering input. Took me a while to dial in the ESC setting (It's a bit unhinged with full punch and brake force enabled) but it's now just the right side of crazy. Drivable, but you need to pay attention. Why am I writing all this over a year after the event? I just happened to take it out for a 20 minute blast when I had a rare spare moment on Saturday and remembered what a great fun truck it is. Quite unlike any other truck I've driven including my Axial Wraith which, on paper, you might expect to be quite similar. Should you find one somehow for sale, I'd recommend it as a small space mini monster truck.

It's oak park, our usual bash spot normally around 5 of us go, it did get a bit hectic on the first corner 😁

Looks like most of the forum got out with their RC’s today! I’m loving all the pics 👌

Had this out for the first time since fitting the LEM gear and new tyres….. Speechless to be honest….. A mild brushless one could well be the greatest ever RC. Crawled everywhere the TRX4 went, wasnt even that slow in second gear and could actually be bashed and did a few jumps. As its basically an E Revo 1.0, its reletively strong and durable. The tyres would let it down for speed I appreciate but a 35/40mph brushless one on 4S must be absolutely unbelievable provided it still had the crawling capbilities

Its being a very stressful 3 weeks, financially planning my mums early retirement due to ill health, organising a surprise 30th for my girlfriend and just general life stuff. Not touched an RC for weeks, maybe even month so I just wanted to go to the middle of nowhere with the crawlers. Also tried the Maxx out since shimming the diffs. Seems much better. Servo sounds rough mind #traxxasservoslol

Gave the big un a bash

Agree mean and moody

very nice, that looks mean

Thanks for the update, I'll leave it for now, but good luck with the rest.

Exactly what I do. That first corner was carnage, We even had qualifying last 3 are out until there's 3 left to race. Biggest problem is 3 black kratons 3 blue kratons you lose track of your own car

bet that epic brother !!! cant beat it loud remember coming back from milton keynes years ago after watching GnR couldnt hear anything for hours lol 🤣🤣

Looks even better with a layer of dirt👍

I quite fancy one of these, having bought a standard Kanyon and the DF-4J '10 Year Edition' in 2020, same chassis at the Kanyon Mountain Rescue, Kanyon + 2 speed gearbox + winch. Will still need that alloy angle brace mod doing so the mounts dont collapse on the first outing. Under no illusions here, lipstick on a pig is still a pig with lipstick on it. But I kind of like my 2

£275 These were when Matteo's RC Movies's did the unboxing review via Aliexpress & Asiatee's in January 2022! Now CML want £499rrp for the FTX? Thats absolutely outrageous and offensive to the FTX customer base. £299-£350 Absolute tops or the money might just go to Traxxas for a TRX4 Defender etc. I Have a soft spot for FTX & RGT but this is really pushing the envelope.

Took the rally over the park with my boy.My god how dirty do these get under the body.This is after I shook most of the dirt out!

This looks Good!

Mine in action 👍🏻

2nd run video 👍🏻

The kit is finished apart from the electronics. Generally a really enjoyable high quality build. A few small issues aside from my choice of motor colour, the pinion gear cover required a bit of modification to fit and you have to remove the top brace and spur gear cover to set the motor mesh but these are minor niggles.

looks sweet where abouts in or near edinburgh do you bash? im always looking for new bash spots 🙂

great rig, but well worth stripping transmission and axles to re lube them as they will be rather dry, go careful with the hex bolts, they can round out

To be honest I have only given it a quick run in the street with a 25t pinion but it was way to higher geared and got to hot and I am going to put an arrma 3s system in it but it handled nice and its very lite.Yes its a slash with telluride arms.

Got all the accessories on but am now stuck over thinking which stickers to use. Only managed to put one on so far. My camera really can’t decide what colour grey I’ve painted it either.

Managed to resolve the front axle binding issue by grinding about 1mm from the back of the hexes (bench grinder). The issue is, as I previously attempted to describe, that the pin holes in the Tekno axled are just a fraction too close to the collar that sits against the inner bearing of the hub. By grinding back the hex, you ensure that the hex presses against the pin rather than pushing against the outer hub bearing when the wheel is tightened down. I have a mate using the tekno shafts and he noted that the front outer hub bearings had collapsed on his. So, may be a general issue. Either way, another step closer to actually being able to run my theoretically RTR car 🙂

The Vitavon centre diff case is much better than stock, when I build mine it is a much better made item with just the one cap, which is nice and thick, they dont come with a gasket so just used my own. Not sure on the Techno shafts, i fitted the full Vitavon set, I know the teckno is a popular upgrade, so may be worth asking on a few of the Facebook pages?

I've heard rumours of this larger pinion bearing (13x5x4 rather than 11x5x4) but I haven't seen any evidence of this on the Losi rear gearbox parts available. My new bearing kit also came with 11x5x4 parts with no alternative option for a V2. I'd also read that the SCTE rear gearbox featured larger bearings but, again, this isn't reflected in the build manual or any of the bearing kits available. Delighted to be wrong on his but would like to know for sure before ordering new parts 🙂 Didn't realise that vitavon make a centre diff. If my silicone sealant solution fails, I might have to bite the bullet on that. Like yours, I'm not planning on bashing this buggy hard. Just blasting round the local woods etc. Hopefully it'll hold up to that okay. Pretty close to finishing my build now but ran into some issues with the Tekno drive shafts. For some reason, they don't quite fit the front hubs. Basically, it all seemed fine until I added a wheel and tightened it down. At that point the wheel pushed the hex back against the outer bearing and caused the axle to bind up. It's as though the hole for the pin is fractionally too close to the collar that sits against the inner bearing. So, when tightened down the bearings get a bit crushed. It's fine when the wheel is off or loose but that's not really a lot of use. Trying to figure out a solution. Cheers.

That does sound like a V1, I thought the decals on the new ones were painted on?, I think the new ones had the uprated rear gearbox case with a bigger pinion bearing (like the Vitavon upgrade). Agreed on the centre diff case, the cover is prone to warping and leaks, again Vitavon make one which is a much better design (but not cheap. I guess it depends on how you run it, mine has an easy life, it doesn't get Bashed (really dislike that term for some reason) it just gets driven in the woods with some small jumps, they drive really well, but Horizon did a terrible job in the QC and obviously used the cheapest parts, I enjoy the tinkering and upgrading so don't mind its short comings, I think mine is now pretty bullet proof (famous last words), but plenty of people running stock with no issues.

Thanks. I've spotted these on your build thread. Juts on a matter of principle though I feel like I should try to make the existing parts work (three sets of internal gears would be another £50 on the car). Like I said in my last update, I think the main issue on the centre diff is the fact that it uses an end cap on both sides (rather than being a 'cup' with the spur gear on one side). I think this is why it leaked in the box but also increases the scope for play in the diff (more parts, more tolerances.....). The front diff went back together far better. I'll see how the back one does when I get to it 🙂

Front diff reassembled with the tekno drive cups. Tekno parts seem lovely. Only issue (similar to ARRMA IIRC) is that the cups are larger than the inner diameter of the bearing so you need to dismantle the whole diff to change the external bearings now. Tolerances on the front diff seem better. I squeezed in one extra Xray shim and it seemed pretty good after that. On the other hand, once installed back in the bulkhead, the mesh between the ring and pinion is just a fraction tight. I'd normally remove a shim from either the diff assembly itself or from behind the pinion gear. However, since (as I say) that would required removing the outdrives from the diff and that the drive cup is stuck on the pinion, it looks like it's just going to have to 'bed in'. The grub screws on the sway bar were totally loose too. I don't know if I've picked up a V1 car (stickers weren't brilliantly applied) but it seems to have every assembly defect int he book. On that... I've figured out why the centre diff was dry. It's because all the oil leaked out into the box during transit. The cardboard below the car in the box is saturated. Looking at the diff I think the issue is that the aluminium centre diff requires an end cap rather than being a 'cup' like the plastic ones. The end cap is made from pressed aluminium and I'm reckoning that there is enough flex in that for it to leak fluid even when tightened down. I've added some silicone gasket during the centre diff rebuild to hopefully remedy this. What a car......

Do your self a favour and order the LOSB3569 Dif gears, these are much better and don’t seem to require as much shimming, I’ve done all three with these. As you say the QC is all over the place, but I guess are can be said of most brands RTR

Last night I removed the wheelie bar and found myself in a situation of making a hinge for the cage using the redundant wheelie bar mount and two rod ends attached to the cage. Now I have a secure fixing of the cage to the chassis that also allows easy access to the internals.

StreetKeeper got a heart transplant today in the form of a Ford SOHC V8 427 cubic inch.

I can’t see who they’ve made these batteries for. Surely no one is silly enough to pay that money for a single battery 😳

Wonder how many they will actually sell at that price 🤔

Look at the price 🤣🤣🤣 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/gens-ace-advanced-lipo-4s-15.2v-10-000mah-100c-ec5--1345227

Today I used some bits I found laying around to attach a front wing of sorts to the VSe. I used some FTX carnage turnbuckles, a 3D printed plate and an old wing. Think I’m gonna need to trim it slightly to allow steering without the risk of fouling the wheels in full lock. Otherwise, it’s pretty stable and slightly adjustable. Being FTX parts, I imagine one gentle collision and it’ll be in a million pieces, but it’s gonna be interesting to see if it’s made a difference with the overall stability of the buggy.

Weather is Good, so Took out the VTE2, soft gearing, 41/27 and just 6s......so plenty of room for gearing up 80mph was easy to achieve. Will go upto 8s next time, but keep the gearing the same, that place i ran isnt the best, and way too many stone chips

Mine just landed 👍 starting it now, I’d like it finished tonight barring the body panels …I sense a late one 😁

Thanks for the info @danny boy I'll look into all your suggestions. I've been slowly working on this as well as my Konghead. The electrics are in, the body is done, and I've only got the interior left to do and then I can go for a drive! I've opted for a Hobbywing Quicrun 10.5t motor and 120a esc. I bought this 5 quid body from China as a basher, and getting past the terrible logos, it actually fits quite nice. But I've actually settled on a 2008 Impreza as the 'proper' body. I knew I didn't want to go box art, so I had a look in my 'paint cupboard' to see what half used cans I had, and settle on these. I didn't really have an exact plan for the body and ended up with this. And here it is decalled up. I can't quite decide if it needs something down each side, but I'll ponder that. All mounted up. (Yes, I'm going to cut down the body posts). That's where I'm up to for now. Next up will hopefully be the interior... although I do have a DT-03 that keeps staring at me... Thanks for looking.