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Oh yeah 🙂

Today, I put my new hump pack (Thanks MSUK) on to charge, the charger runs off my car battery, so I'll get about half charge before I go home, and will put it back on tomorrow mornig. I fitted new AA's to the transmitter. (Thanks MSUK) I charged my new glow start (Thanks MSUK) and tested the very old glow plug thats in the K4.6 and it worked. Got the Fuel (thanks MSUK) ready. So tomorrow, I hope to get my Savage running for the first time in, well, a long time. 🤞

Not your average 1/10 scale Features: High power gasoline engine High traction tires Maximum working speed of 0.62 m/s Dry double-layer air filter Easy to operate multi stick channel radio Recommended for steep slopes or tight areas View full news article

Hi, I bought a 2nd hand DC1 a couple of weeks ago mainly due to it's scale chassis, It was tatty though and needed some TLC. I've printed a body and front bumper that now need rubbing down ready for paint and replaced the shocks for some 90mm Desert Lizards. I do quite like the primer colour on it so may choose something similar as a final colour although I'm not sure yet.

Fitted an electric glow plug, to my hsp nitro 1/8 scale. No more having to use the push down type,

Someone needs to jump on Extreme E marketing and make a bodyshell for a SC chassis.

I don't mean to sound savage here... but why do HPI continue to regurgitate the same stuff which ultimately led to their bankruptcy? They need to take a giant leap and actually launch something new and exciting... ...and by that I don't mean a small petrol engine Savage. In 5 years time nobody new to the hobby will know who HPI are.

My crawler and homemade trailer

So, I've bought myself a new toy (been thinking about to for a while now). Last weekend I was out with a few of the lads ( @Ant.p & @beyondRC ) and had a quick dash around on a Typhon and liked what I felt in terms of handing and grip. I'd been looking at the TLR for a while and kind of liked what it offered, I'm really enjoying my bashing at the moment but have always really appreciated handling and performance when it comes to driving IRL and having a quick go on a speed car last week I really started to feel the draw to a quick, solid, fast car. I like the Arrma cars and platform, I have a few already, like the way they look and I'm comfortable working on them. Plus, I'm a sucker for a Limited Edition/Colab/etc... I also used a Sanwa MX-6 recently and really noticed the response over the Spektrum radio I was using, so opted for that of RC gear. Steering servo is one I literally have spare after a warranty replacement, I've also been told that this is an updated version of the S652 over the previous ones issued, so I'll give that a go I think. Batteries are just a few 5000, 60C packs that will fit into my current rotation, but I'll try and keep these for the Typhon. Motor and ECS was a choice made after reading the RPM vs Cells pinned post in the electric section. I wanted something I didn't have to rip the guts out of to get shifting and keep at a good temp, this seemed to fit the bill nicely. Still not chosen a Spur gear yet and will be chatting about what will be the best option, 17t & 18t have been suggested from Modlesport but I may end going with something that will perhaps suit the set-up and use case better. This is my first, non-RTR car, so will be an experience in itself putting it all together. Focus will be to set this up for fast road use, get it running, get it nice and set up for road use then start doing a few speed runs with the boys and their cars. I'll still have my Notorious 6S for flopping about with but it'll be great to have this is the boot of the car for when we go sprinting. Well looking forward to it 😁.

Been testing out my new engine heater It got the engine up 65c in 10 mins 👍

It took around 100hrs to print, I slowed the print speed so to keep the fine details. I’ve just broke out the kitchen scales and it weighs 14oz, less than I thought if I’m honest.

Impressive printing. How long did that take to produce, ignoring all the work to prep it once it comes off the printer?

Tricky but I'd love something that combined Tamiya quirkiness with 6S brushless power and modern durability. Imagine a 1/7th 6 wheeled thing that could be sent on a BMX track with a sensored system and locking diffs so you can then take it crawling. An Arrma Nero/Traxxas Summit/Tamiya Dynahead crossover.

In stock, I should have mine for the weekend! 😯

No, no, notorious! Remember that tune?

Nice body, boring chassis, I would rather have a TT-02 🤣🤣🤣

Factory seals are actually there for the supplier/retailer to show it is complete on arrival. I get why a customer might be annoyed if these are broken but it isn't uncommon for retailers to tear them open to add a few extra bits in off your order instead of putting it in a bigger box with a load of packing peanuts. But yeah there's no excuse for the product to be damaged/scratched.

ive ordered a sheet of carbon (fake) to make something….. which I despise doing haha

Really? Why is it sold with an Max6 8s esc then? Mine didnt explode on 8s. When i ran it..,

fitted a alloy battery tray that sits a tad lower than the stock one on the trx4 and added some mudflaps that say landrover on em 😛

Smashed the br mini ESC and Rx together on the sporty. And may have poslised this bottle of amazing stuff off to tonight. Fun times.

Had a few people coming in asking about flat bar gravel bikes. So basically you want a mid nineties mountain bike with modern brakes then?!

I ponder this sometimes, if as a community we could design and build our own RC car... what scale would we choose? What model type? What would our communal goal be that we'd want from an RC car? All hypothetically speaking but I thought I'd just shoot this out there. 😉 I feel with us mostly being bashers, then strength, simplicity and value would be the core principles. Scale and model type is a hard one, 1/8th or 1/10th comes to my mind but it's hard to pin down where to try and get your foot in the door with the model type, with most being done to death already. Lets discuss. 🙂

Impressive indeed, came out well! Along with how long id be keen to know what the body weights, im going to guess around 1.2 - 1.5kg?

Just noticed, the Revo mustve been updated at some point, this is my old one: New E Revo (well this one I have?) has lots of plastic shell protection?? I cant see any pictures of it online? Heres my new one? Looks like TRX8610 is standard now https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/318762/?gclid=CjwKCAjw9qiTBhBbEiwAp-GE0Q_XGD8cKb2u-ItijCRTJddYXvDlOimXXy05wU32Khg6yrResYQBhhoCZysQAvD_BwE

Lidl is selling o rings at the moment £ 6.99 for 420 assortment in a nice case. Just thought it might help you out 😃

Thought of trying that, then figured I'd get the real deal. Cheers though.

Short Course, large, easy to work on, electric and really rather fast.

Punks.

Welcome to invite who you like. 🙂 Just let them know we have a forum too. Leaning towards a TRX-4. I'm a sucker for Traxxas, they are good and parts and hopups easy to get.

Ah okay. Sounds great. 🙂 No I don't have a crawler but plan to by this event!!!

Good bit of kit there Suits. Buggy turns like its on rails. I have the MX6 too, can't go wrong with Sanwa, even for their cheaper gear.

Sorry for late reply, not much unless its for the food festival. 😄 I don't go far out of York area to be honest, or if I do I head west.

Great responses so far. Sounds good! How many gate markers do you have? I'm wondering if we just put them up as we see good places, I'll be there earlier though just to get nested if you want to come for just after 9 perhaps. (also explain how gate markers work for us none-crawler folks do we just have to drive through them?)

fully equipped now! Can’t wait for the next meet to see all this in action. More batteries too 👍🏻😁

Likewise.

I wouldn't worry too much, after 6 months of regular use you will have replaced about 80% of parts anyway! Mine was ok out of the box. I'd check the wheel nuts.

My R1 is like a little mouse compared to this 😂 Is it just the Texans? Mines really loud and watching others on YouTube they seem the same. It crawls along lovely and smooth with really good low speed control it’s just noisy as hell. I’ve already packed the diffs and gearboxes with grease, Ive swapped the brass pinion for an RW gear and now changed the spur. I’ll try a dab of grease on the spur 👍

Trust the Devon boy to have the best ghetto solution 😁

arent these designed for the LMT? that has 17mm hexes. maybe they would go on the kyosho mad crusher too.

They do it, because mugs/fanboys like me buy them all...... But seriously: Theres the Xmaxx. A huge 1/5th Scale Monster Truck. Runs 8S Brushless Then there's the Sledge. This an all new 8th Scale Truggy. Very traditional truggy layout. Alloy Chassis, Centre Diff etc The E-Revo 2.0 was an improved E-Revo which is an older R/C. It LOOKS like a traditional Truggy, but it has in board pushrod shocks. its 1/10th on paper, but is 1/8th in all honesty. It is Brushless 6s. The Summit is based on the E-Revo 1.0 Chassis, but is more crawler orientated, and has lockable diffs, two speed gearbox and a large 775 brushed motor. The Maxx/WideMaxx is a 10th scale, scaled down Xmaxx, with a modular chassis set up. Runs 3-4s Brushless and is 10th scale There's then the 10th Scale 4x4s. Theyre all based on a similar platform, but have different height/length chassis. Theres The Slash 4x4, Stampede 4x4, Rustler 4x4, Hoss 4x4 and the Rally is similar layout too. These are avaliable in brushed or brushless There's then the 10th Scale 2WD. Theyre all based on a similar platform, but have different height/length chassis/Wheels/Tyres/Arms. Theres the Bandit, Stampede and the Rustler. These are avaliable in brushed or brushless The 1/16th Traxxas models. Theres 3, all very similar, based on a Revo chassis but smaller, with pushrod suspension. Theres a Slash/Summit/Revo. The Slash has shorter arms, and they all have unique suspension set ups, but theyre very similar

Bits for the E Revo 2.0 and a brand new rear diff/bulkhead for the Mini Revo. I want to sell my Revo 1/16th and the rear diff occasionally clicks so Ill put a brand new one in before advertising it 🙂

They really don’t suit a modern styled Truggy or Truck, they would be cool on something old school looking though 👍

He has done it! Blew up the wheel! 😂 New tyre on order. But other than that, it's still a decent truck. 👍

My only reason for preferring brushless is that when I have gone LiPo on a brushed motor...it's died very fast. Admittedly, these were not high end motors....but even so. They got very hot, and very dead. Brushless gave longer run times, and a longer life. But...a 15T would be a step up in performance on NiMh, just not quite as much. A MadBull on brushless ought to be a lot of fun though.

Absolutely nothing to be afraid of LiPo batteries for. You've got one inside your mobile phone. Just don't smash it up or leave it in the hot sun where it may overheat. When you charge them and store them just keep them in a LiPo sack, or better still a metal ammo box. It just adds a layer of protection between the battery and yourself in the event of a fire. Bare in mind that the chances of a fire are slim to none, you'd need a seriously defective battery or to have seriously abused it for one to catch fire. With regards to Tamiya shocks you should check out https://www.jk-rc.co.uk/ they do budget and premium grade oil shocks for all manner of Tamiya and other popular RC cars. As well as spares and upgrades. I wish I'd found the site before I ordered a set of shocks from China that ended up being a full 10mm too short on the fronts and rear meaning I can't use them and I've wasted £25

TL;DR +1 on the 4268 2600kv. On 4S, just keep the stock motor or if you really want more torque, get a bigger can but keep the KV above 2400. I started with a 4274 2000kv, but that meant high gearing (27/46) and high amp draw, motor didn’t feel snappy, runtime sucked and the batteries got pretty warm for my liking(CNHL G+Plus 70C 5000mah). Needs 6s in the heavy Maxx and I wanna keep it 4s even though I am running a Max6. Next, I tried the Rocket 4076 2250kv on 24/46. Better, everything stayed a bit cooler, runtime was better and throttle response was much nicer. Even though the top end is the same between the 2 setups, the 2250kv just runs in a more efficient RPM range and doesn’t have to work so hard to get up to that speed and also spins up faster cause of the lower gearing. Will try it again on even shorter gearing like 24/50 but also ordered a 4268 2600kv to test. Should be perfect as Kpowell911 said. Higher rpm and lower weight while still producing more torque than the stock 3670, seems like a winner to me 👍. Not sure on gearing yet, but I honestly don‘t need my Maxx to do 60mph so probably relatively short like 21/50. I also had changed my diff setup prior to testing the motors. Running 50k/200k/30k F/C/R and liking it. Would go lighter in the center if I ran it on a track or something like that. But for general bashing I find it more controllable than stock, while still keeping it “lively” enough to be fun. And if anyone cares, it will still do wheelies but obviously not as easy as with the 20m in the center diff (that’s with the extended chassis btw.)

Get some "S3" GRP or softer if you really want grip: https://www.tracksidespares.co.uk/?product_cat=&post_type=product&s=grp

I bought my Noble from them with no issues. I do remember getting a arsey email from them when asking about a late item tho