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Traxxas trx4 owners thread.


Gaz!

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You got green light from She Who Must Be Obeyed and not bought it yet !!!!

If it was me would have been bought 2 seconds after she said yes lol :rofl:

Edited by Stormbringer
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5 hours ago, Shergar said:

So today I bought TRX-4 sport kit and a 1080 from Modelsport…. added some Power Hd Servos and Holmes Hobbies motor from Asia Tees, a few bits from Rc Mart a 2 speed gearbox Jennys and a Bowhouse LCG tray from the states. I will wait till everything arrives and start in one go I think. I blame everyone, and I've not even started on RCbitz website yet 😂

Ha ha very nice mate 👍🏻

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Is it right the Traxxas LED run at 3V? If true will a Traxxas light and a3V Dc-Dc convertor let me use standard futaba plugs for power off non-Traxxas ESC and reciever?

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49 minutes ago, Shergar said:

Id be intrigued to know how you get on with quality, fit and ultimately effectiveness of the brass KPowell.

This was £61 shipped for loads of it, I think its like £200+ of Fastrax stuff, so we will see. Ive not had it yet, as its my parents so will probably sort it next week

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Cheers for that mate 👍 

I got a cheappy 1 of Amazon for mine which is quite good but only draw back is if you have full lock on more than 7 secs it  changes mode lol

It does get annoying tho lol :rofl:

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It's how the stock Traxxas ESC is wired I think so you can just plug it into their lighting systems. I will say that if you want to use Traxxas lights go for their lighting kits as I think they have found a way to make it more difficult to use just their lights without their lighting control units and power blocks. I would also say if you want to go for the Traxxas lighting systems try and get the "pro" system as you are actually able to control the light modes rather than the non pro version which means that your lights are constantly on when you turn the ESC on unless you unplug the lights from the power block.

 

The Traxxas lighting is expensive but I would say it's worth it as you don't really have to faff around with things too much get them to fit or work.

Edited by supersavage
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I will be intrigued to see how you get on and what bits you need. I’m taking the building standard and seeing what might help approach, but for what you paid you can’t go wrong.

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5 minutes ago, Shergar said:

I will be intrigued to see how you get on and what bits you need. I’m taking the building standard and seeing what might help approach, but for what you paid you can’t go wrong.

We found it needed a bit of weight low down, and hopefully this will combat that. Dont think ill brushless it, which was the original plan

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1 hour ago, Kpowell911 said:

Brass seems great for the money:

 

8lireXC.jpg

 

mFmrSyj.jpg

Too much weight will have and adverse effect as gravity pulls the truck down as it tries to climb, id test it and see how it performs before adding even more weight, also id start looking into harder foams to support the weight.
Id be intrested to see how the brass bushing holes hold up over time, they do look quality milled tho.

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7 minutes ago, Redback said:

Too much weight will have and adverse effect as gravity pulls the truck down as it tries to climb, id test it and see how it performs before adding even more weight, also id start looking into harder foams to support the weight.
Id be intrested to see how the brass bushing holes hold up over time, they do look quality milled tho.

These brass parts are the same size as stock, I believe they make ‘bigger’ portal covers etc where there is more material, so hopefully should be good. Ive got the diff covers on the way, but theyre black alloy.
 

Im looking at foams next, I think ones a bit destroyed after getting wet and been stood stationary, but dont really want to buy new wheels/tyres to change the foams. Unglueing and re glueing never works…..

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