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  1. ARRMA NOTORIOUS 6S V5 1/8 4WD BLX STUNT TRUCK. EUR 650 inclusive of shipping to UK with tracking and insurance. The item is for sale on eBay as well. Full description: https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/1-8-notorious-6s-v5-4wd-blx-stunt-truck-with-spektrum-firma-rtr-black/ARA8611V5T1.html Selling my Arrma Notorious 6S, used for about 4 months during pandemic, now I do not have time for it anymore. The price is low because I need the money for other hobbies, there are no hidden gremlins with the car or anything else. I purchased this from TAMICO on 29.03.2021, the original invoice is still available for warranty. Everything is working out of the box, no issues with overheating or anything else. Review the pictures for full detail of what's included, the highlights are: 3 LiPo Batteries (2x3S + 1x6S) all fully working, used about 15 times. Protective Velcro Net Brand new GPM shocks Additional new shell, extra strong, unused, with stickers Spare Spektrum Servo Several EXB parts, including rear limited slip differential Plenty of parts upgraded to aluminium Extra set of wheels Plenty of spare parts ( I cannot list them all) Plenty of extra high quality screws Regular maintenance carried out on all parts Contact me if you are interested in the truck alone or the spares alone, I can change the listing accordingly. I am happy to sell the spare parts that are still sealed separately, contact me. Contact me if you want a video of the truck or a test of the LiPos.
  2. I enjoy speed running so when a friend of mine invited me to a new RC 1/7th & 1/8th scale drag racing UK page on Facebook it definitely peaked my interest. Link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1118696538867901 I've already got some cars in those scales set up for speed runs so didn't really fancy messing with my set ups to try drag racing. With that in mind I searched for a while for a good used Arrma Infraction as it was an RC I'd fancied for a while. It meant selling some things to buy it as well as promising the Mrs it was the last RC I'd buy (well this year anyway, sshhh) . Really starting this more so for just somewhere to log my progress but if others find it interesting as well then that's great ~ it will be a slow build project though but I will update as often as I can. For now though here it is as standard.
  3. Had this for a while but it’s currently my favourite 1/8th buggy as I think the body shape and style looks really cool. The body is very curvy and streamlined and the rear wing is very batman’esque.
  4. Here for sale is my much loved Arrma Outcast 4s in bronze. I have owned this for a couple of years but hasn't had a great deal of use, only had about 5 packs through it. It's fully working with no known issues. Will be cleaned thoroughly before sale, can upload new pictures as required but used old photos I already have from when I was meant to put it up for sale ages ago! Does have a few marks and damage to front and rear bumpers but nothing is cracked and doesn't affect use. It comes with a toolbox of spares, the original Transmitter and receiver and a 4s Hardcase lipo. It features upgraded RPM front arms and GPM metal driveshafts all round costing £60 alone. Massive improvement to durability. Reason for sale is that I just don't use it anymore and I have too many RCs so need to thin the collection out a bit. Price is £280 ono, collection preferred but can deliver within reason or I can post at buyers cost. Will come in original packaging with all manuals/tools. Thanks for taking time to read my post 👌
  5. Hello everyone! I have started a new project. I was looking for some challenging project which would be interesting for us as well as for you guys. My colleague told me that we have an Arrma Limitless in the company, but in really bad condition. It was used for a few tests and for implementing a combo that would fit into the original motor mount – dummy proof. With that combo our top speed record was not that high so we have decided to push this limit a little bit higher with this car. That’s mainly because most of our customers are looking to break the records so we want to have more knowledge in this field and to be able to test our ESCs on the limit as well. At first, when I saw this car, I thought that with this car will be impossible to reach a higher speed. I was worried about the free space. I wanted to keep using the default body which is extremely low. My 1/10 scale car has more free space than this car huh. With higher speed is connected bigger motor (LMT 2280 with 1480Kv) and bigger ESC (400A, 15 cells) and more cells (12s) necessary for powering this beast up. The moment we put inside our small compact combo for limitless, there wasn´t any space. And now, I started planning to add more cells, a bigger ESC and a longer motor. We spent a lot of time thinking about how we will place this huge ESC into this small car. We found only one place where we can put this ESC without doing any changes on the default parts. My main goal was to place everything without any changes on the main plate or adding holes for mounting. I removed the factory battery holders and printed my own battery holder. I moved both batteries to one side because the length of the motor compel me to rotate the centre spur gear with motor mount to the opposite side. Unfortunately, I met with another small problem. Our big ESC doesn´t have BEC and I needed to found another place where I can place an additional battery for the receiver. I found some place next to the motor and add another battery holder. And finally, the ESC. I thought that we will be able to place it behind the motor but there wasn´t enough space. Unfortunately, in front of the motor wasn´t enough space as well. So, I decided to place the ESC on the top of the center strut. I removed the fans from the ESC and decrease the height of the cooler and this fit here without any additional free millimeter. Everything was successfully placed. There was a time to put the body on the chassis. Unfortunately, I missed a few millimetres on the back for mounting. I printed additional holders thanks to which I was able to safely mount the body. Finally, we were able to go to give it a first test ride! Before our first test, I went out just for short tests if everything runs smoothly. I was shocked, this car is a beast! I didn´t go over 20 % of the input request. It was too fast and aggressive. I had to increase the acceleration ramp because too fast acceleration was impossible to control. Immediately when I moved the throttle stick too fast, the car started sliding. We moved to the airport where we were ready to hit our speed record. After few runs, we achieved a speed of 180 km/h on 10s. I read the history of the run on my computer and realized that I wasn´t on the maximal speed. That was the time to decrease acceleration time in order to reach the top speed. Unfortunately, at the moment when I accelerated too fast, the car started sliding and went immediately out of the track into the grass and the car made 2 or 3 flips... Batteries were damaged and flew out of the car. The crash caused light damage on the back wing and the left-back wheel broke. During the crash, the motor was released and I have got an idea that is necessary to create some support holder for the motor. Right now, I am working on upgrading back wing and we will be ready to break the limit of 200 km/h. Also, I would like to ask if someone has experience with high speeds and if I can do something for holding higher stability in the maximal speed. If you have any ideas on how to upgrade anything I will appreciate it if you will let me know below in the comments. I think that after we hit the 200 my colleagues will be not satisfied and they will need more. We will see how much we can push this limit. Other than upgrades I mentioned, the car is still mainly with stock parts. I believe we can hit 200kmh before we start buying new parts.
  6. Arrma Mojave roll cages. Bnip, project didn't pan out so no need for these, Mojave shell already moved on. Parts ARA480031, ARA480033 fits 1/7 Mojave inc EXB. Retail looks around £30 so £15 each plus post NET. Welcome to collect / local meet up (I'm E mids)
  7. I shouldn’t have really bought this until I sold my 5ive 😬 Ooh well 🤣🤣🤣
  8. Sadly this was a mistake on my part, totally nothing wrong with the car, it was just wrong choice, there is ABSOLUTELY no damage at all to it, has only had one pack run through it, and then i have spent the week cleaning it, so now it is about the cleanest, newest slightly used Senton to come on the market comes with all the manufacturer supplied items like instructions, took kit TX and packaging I am pricing it at £265 collected or £280 shipped, even at the shipped price i am losing a big chunk on new price of £329, so wont be taking offers on this, if you choose to social distance collect then location is close to Halifax west yorks, once sold i will reinvest the money into an rc more suitable to me, no lipo supplied but i will include an EC5 to XT60 if needed Thanks for looking, if you have a question ask or message me
  9. Arrma big rock for sale. I haven t had it long but I got rid of my kraton and miss it so I bought another one. This one need to go as my wife is already mad. Body as you can see from the pictures has been bashed. I have only taken it out 3 times! Comes with the original box. I can provide a proof of purchase as you will still have nearly 2 years warranty on the electrics. Bought on the 24th January 2021! Im looking for £270 posted. If you want to collect we could arrange the too. Photos via imager: https://imgur.com/a/6m21Z6r SOLD
  10. I'm wanting a larger scale on road car primarily for speed runs. Can you build a Limitless with similar speed/power performance as the RTR Infraction or Felony? I'm asking as I assume for max speed, the Limitless aerodynamics are going to be way better than the Infraction and Felony? That said, a low slung RTR Mojave or EBX Mojave could be a possible, like the rest of the line up for speed runs but the Kraton/Typhon/Talion would be more usable for general bashing but I do have an Xmaxx for that and short course bodies are not great aerodynamicly but I'm not familiar with the Arrma models to know whether there are major differences between platforms other than wheels, bodies, shocks and suspension arms. Let me know your thoughts...
  11. I’m usually into racing buggies, but with lockdown, there’s little chance of doing any racing at all. So I’ve been spending some on some bashers. Here’s my Arrma Typhon that sharted life as a Senton. I’m still adding and modifying as I go along but it’s a start.
  12. So here’s my Arrma Senton with a different body. Not sure the lights will last long at the top there but they look quite funky.
  13. M2c arrma Kraton/outcast/senton/Talion/Mojave chassis £130 posted to uk mainland Kraton 8s chassis £200 posted to uk mainland Arrma Kraton 8s Crusher SWB £260 posted to uk mainland. V1 and V1.5 versions available. Arrma Notorious metallic Blue body £55 posted to uk mainland Arrma Kraton 8s front hinge pin blocks £50 posted to uk mainland Arrma Kraton 8s rear hinge pin blocks £50 posted to uk mainland Kraton lightweight speed chassis £130 posted to uk mainland Thanks for looking 😊
  14. Hi I am new to this Forum and new to RC, I recently bought an Arrma Typhon 550 Mega as I thought it was a good introduction vehicle for the price etc. Also my thinking was eventually I would like to upgrade the motor and ESC to a brushless system myself rather than buying the Typhon 3S BLX with all the kit already in. My first upgrade was to change the transmitter because from all reports the Spektrum STX2 gets pretty awful reviews. So I bought a Spektrum DX5C and it came with a SR6100AT receiver. When installing the receiver and binding with the DX5C I get terrible oscillation from the servo. At first I thought it was from the AVC (Vehicle control) but then reading the manual I noticed that it states the SR6100AT should be used with digital servos as AVC wont work properly with an analogue servo and can cause over heating. I am not sure how accurate this is and wondered if its just company speel to cover them if the servo breaks? All Arrma cars use analogue servos as far as I can see so I am surprised this receiver should only be used with digital servos? especially when both brands are owned bu Horizon hobbies! Anyway I just wondered if any one had any advice for this and if they would know if the SR6100AT is ok to be used with an analogue servo? If not my options to are either buy a new receiver or buy a new digital servo? Any advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks
  15. M2c racing arrma and tekno. And lots more Available on my site from M3, POS, GKA and 23MP Www.badtouchbreakers.com Please note these are pictures I've taken and not from the manufacturers 😊 Talion rear tower £45 Talion front tower £45 Stand off kit £20 Pillow ball retainer set £25 Mt410 wide (game changer) chassis £150 Mt410 wide (game changer truggy) £150 Arrma 6s top hinge pin holder £38 Kraton/Notorious Front tower £45 Kraton/Notorious rear tower £45 All prices include postage and PayPal fees.
  16. Hi all, I could have sworn I had seen a post on here about bearing sets for the Arrma outcast 4s, I think it was a link to a company website that supplies them but I can't for the life in me find the post/link anymore. If anyone could point me in the right direction I'd be grateful. Thanks, Andy.
  17. Hi everyone, I want to start by providing a little bit of background. I am completely new to the world of RC and up until a few weeks ago I was not considering this as a hobby, only because I haven't been exposed to it. I had not heard of Arrma, Traxxas or any other brand. Then around two weeks ago I randomly came across this video which sparked my interest: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmS7hKnmaOs In that video the speed of the Mojave was impressive and triggered me to explore RC cars further. I have since watched a shed load of videos from a whole bunch of channels and read many posts on multiple forums (including this one). I have concluded that I'm purchasing my first RC car, which will be an Arrma Krayton 6s. Whilst doing my research I looked at many of the retailers (mainly Modelsport) for prices and availability. Up until last week they had the Krayton 6s in stock but now it has sold out, not just from Modelsport but from everywhere. Modelsport and some other sites state that stock is due in early June. I noticed that youtube videos of krayton 6s v4 were released March/April 2019 and that got my curiosity going.... Will the stock arriving early June be the Krayton 6S v5? Have Krayton or other models completely sold out everywhere in the past? Or is everyone buying RC cars to keep them entertained during the lockdown period? Also, any thoughts on pricing of the new stock. Do prices tend to go up when new stock or new versions arrive? Modelsport currently sell the Karyton 6s for £469 but the RRP is £509.99 Any thought from more experienced members are highly appreciated.
  18. So today i got myself a fixer upper. An arrma Talion V2. So i began work onit tonight... Oh boy was i in for treat, as you can see, it's got a broken diff case, bent rear tower, but the that was the tip of the ice burg. As i took off the rear hinge pin mount FR and RR, both plates where bent, i then removed the hinge pins and lower hinge pins.... Your not gunna believe it... But they where bent 🤦 i had a stripped screw on the diff case which was broken anyways so no point in been careful, so tore off the front and opened up the diff.... This was dryer then a sponge left on a sunbed for a few days.. could of used a different analogies but chose this one, so... Diff internals are now soaking in cleaner. Tonight i will order a new diff case, I've cleaned up the hub bearings, and cleaned the hubs, also replaced the spacers between the arm and hub to eliminate any slop in the rear rub. I've included some pictures of the bent parts lol. So i cleaned up the rear arms and guards using pink muc off spray, and then coating them in some GT 85, also wiped down the rear axels with GT85. This is as far as I've got but stay tuned if your interested in this build, restoration. As I'll be posting updates as i go Thanks 👍🏻 Build part 2 So i stripped out the diff, cleaned them. And reassemble, put some new shims inside. And used green slime to seal the orings, poured some lovely 10k diff oil in there and this baby is good to go. Found an old diff case, cleaned it up with some bearings blaster, to rid it of any old oil, regreased the bearings. And Everything is sliky smooth! Fitted diff back in the case using a shim, which was 0.2 i believe arrma shims are 0.1 so this is like double shimming it. Took the shocks apart, fitted some V3-V4 shock caps so i can use the V3-V4 stand offs and shock balls for easier mounting of the shocks. Added some 80w (1000cst) mounted a new rear tower, replace the button heads on the tower with cap heads. This should make taking the tower off easier. I Threadlock the stand offs to stop them coming loose. Re adjusted the droop screws, so hopefully should minimise the rod end breakages. And then reassemble to put into the chassis rear end is done. Lets seeee what joy and happiness the front end will bring 😂😂 Ok so the wife was nice enough to let me disappear to get abit more work done on this little beauty. So i stripped Everything out of the centre of the chassis. Battery tray, receiver box, motor, esc servo cleaned all the chassis plate, side guards, esc had its caged all ripped open, the centre diff for some reason was locked up, and wouldn't turn by hand, dry as a bone.... 😔🔥 No gasket and a screw missing. The diff had of corse decided to do a diff poo all over the chassis plate. Once the removed the front centre driveshaft, found the front pin had Snapped 😲 and the drivecup decided it loved me and fell onto my bench. (That's one less thing to worry about getting off right? 😂) One of the tabs on the esc had snapped off, so i used some scotch double sided tape (massive thanks to @richard Robinson for this amazing tape 😆 and also massive should out to wezley Marshall for giving me the esc cage super stars lads. So I've then cable tied the esc to the tray so that is definitely not going anywhere once the tape sets! Cleaned up the motor mount, and re instailled it. Also thrown in a V3-V4 servo mount on it as they are alot thicker plastic and should help with the flex from the servo. I also cleaned all the inside of the esc, as the hint sink was filled with loose grass a few small stones and a truck load of dirt. Tonight i will strip the diff, clean all the gears etc inside, check o rings, and replace the gasket..... I say replace... I mean add one also the diff cup needs replacing as i can see a stone or an object of some form (can't Blame Everything on stones right poor stones 😂) has worn down the cup. Once everything is rebuilt it's time to add Everything back in the chassis. If you guys are enjoying this as much as i am please let me know 😊 As I won't doit again 😂 Cheers Whats uppp lovely people, so this build is coming along nicely... 😁 I have to say i honestly don't know how this centre diff was even in one peice 😂 it was that bad. O-rings replaced gasket put on a used but good diff cup, and reassemble diff with some light use of green slime. Not a right lot to add to here. Put everything back in, so the battery tray, the centre diff, fed all the wires through into the reciver box, fitted the STX2 radio gear. I sealed it all in with a thin layer of silicon grease around the seals on the reciver box. And Everything cleaned up 100k diff oil in the centre. I'll start work on the front this evening hopefully and have it ready for the customer tomorrow. 😊
  19. Hi, Did a recent deal on this truck, since having it for almost 2 weeks today I managed to get a go, unfortunately 20yards into the maiden voyage a rear driveshaft has let go the hub is there along with all the bits (that may possibly go back together). ive rebuilt the shocks with 2 rebuild kits and 50wt oil, now the previous shocks were leaking oil, to the point the esc lower case had gone brittle, I’ve fixed it now with a hobbywing sc8wp mounting plate and all is now good. Also changed the 4 outer hub bearings (rubber shielded) but the inners (in my opinion) need replacing. so your gonna need, a driveshaft or rebuild kit and 4 hub bearings sooner rather than later. doesn't come with any radio gear or lipos. it has rpm arms fitted all round, and will come with the stock arms and the salvageable shock rebuild parts. condition is used. Now I’ve been as honest as possible but price will reflect this. deal done to the value of £275 and with the shock kits, bearings, esc repair I’m guessing it’s now around the 300 mark, ridiculous as a new one is only 60 more..... id be happy with £200 after postage and fees so asking £225 all in. As always, open to trades/swaps (electric Rc only though) thanks for looking. *edit, the ec5 to ec3 connector is not included. Esc is running a ec5 connector.
  20. Hey guys! Look forward to chatting to some of you! Check out our channel if you have spare time! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCkqmxz1rLH7AWXwEafnt3pg Hope everybody is keeping safe at the moment. Take care ☺️
  21. Rebuilt my shocks over the last couple of days, when doing the fronts one of the lower shock shaft eyelets must have been cracked as it just came apart when I unscrewed it, popped to Modelsport this morning and got a new set, they let me build it up on the counter so I could take it straight out on the way home. Took it to the BMX park for a little light bashing and writhing 5 mins the same break on the lower shock shaft but on the rear this time.....and guess what, no UK stock anywhere and Modelsport are saying they won’t have any until June. it’s getting silly now, this thing is breaking every time I take it out and I’m not even giving it much stick. Would shock oil weaken plastic, that’s all I can think of that’s been wrong with it really. Also, does anyone have any AA330527 available? thanks.
  22. M2c Typhon towers £90 posted to uk and N Ireland M2c Kraton 8s motor mount £50 posted to uk and N Ireland Slide 5mm and 8mm are £20 (Please note the stock slide doesn't work with the M2c motor mount nor will the motor mount work with the stock Chassis) m2c 6905 TEKNO V2 ALUMINUM SOLID CENTER BRACE £37.00 posted to uk and N. Ireland. m2c 6755 TEKNO SHORT REAR CENTER BRACE FITS MT410,.3 BUGGY,TRUGGY £23.00 posted to uk and N. Ireland M2C 6775 TEKNO 48.3 TRUGGY REAR CENTER BRACE £20.00 posted to uk and N. Ireland M2C 6981 E TRUGGY REAR HORIZONTAL BRACE £40 posted to uk and N.ireland M2c Kraton 8s chassis £215 posted to uk and N.ireland M2C 6760 TEKNO MT410 FRONT UPPER SHOCK TOWER BRACE £25 posted to uk and N.ireland M2c game changer wide body Mt410 £150 posted to uk N.ireland All available on my site Www.badtouchbreaker.com More arrma upgrades available on there too. I will post worldwide but charge an extra £5 to cover the cost all charges will be added upon check out, for Eu and other countries postage is included to uk and N.ireland 💪🏻
  23. Here's a Joblot of basher bodies for sale.... Price is £27 ... Plus £5 post Some are worse than others... All are usable in some form... If only to stick some on the kids rc's etc etc... But I think all are used/ damaged in some form or another...
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