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Found 25 results

  1. Hi folks... It's been a while since I've visited the site but I thought I'd check in as I'm looking to get back into RC after some time away from the hobby and I need some advice. I have an Arrma Typhon (v4) and I'm not getting any response from the esc with freshly charged batteries. Absolutely, nothing... No fan, no lights, no beeps... Nowt. I've removed the esc (BLX 185 version) and the casing and after taking a close look... it looks to me like it's possibly smoulered a little around the capacitors... See Image below. As I'm still very much an RC noob I wondered if I get I could get some advice on whether it's cooked and needs replacing? I also wondered whether people are aware of issues with this particular ESC and if a replacement is needed, would it be worthwhile replacing this with another? Possibly the newer Spectrum Firma version which comes as stock on the V5? Or if anyone is aware of a different ESC that will drop into my V4 Typhon without any modifications then please let me know. My Typhon is completely stock. Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you and have a nice day.
  2. I have a 2 of Rhino's 3 cell 5000maH lipo and a YEP ESC 180A HV (4~14S) Brushless Speed Controller. I tried connecting them to the ESC and it started fuming at the connector. Even with only 1 battery it also was fuming. To be clear, it is only fuming at the XT60 connectors and the ESC did not fume.
  3. My Arrma Granite BLX stops driving after a few seconds, I am even driving slowly. I am 15 so I don't know what to do, I am worried about taking it apart without knowing what is going on. I don't want to have to spend $100 to buy another ESC. By the way the truck is years old, and the batteries are brand new with an new lipo battery charger, I asked my uncle what could be wrong with it and he says that he doesn't know. I also have been driving the truck rear wheel drive, because I broke the front differentials racing against a Senton, the front diffs are out and not causing a problem. The truck has had problems before, I also have a new brushless motor, and a new servo. The truck just one day stopped driving for more than a few seconds, and has been in storage for months now and I am trying to get it back on the road, at least two wheel drive. I hope this is enough to help you guys get the truck back on the road.
  4. I have a Kraton EXB with an EZRUN-MAX8-V3 ESC. My batteries got wet and one of them failed (my bad). I dried them out and managed to get the affected one working again. I spotted what looked like white lithium oxide inside the battery and decided that it was safest to bin it. Lithium being highly reactive with water and all. So I plumped for a new battery. I am now using one new and one old battery. My charger/tester shows all the cell voltages as being OK, as with the internal resistance, i.e. the old battery matches the brand new one. I'm running a discharge tested on them now and they seem fine. The Kraton will not power up. Normally when I turn the ESC on the motor and ESC will 'beep'. This is not happening now. The red light on the switch now flashes. I cannot find a mention of the switch LED in the instructions, only the LEDs on the ESC itself. I have put the programming card onto the ESC and it does not light up. However, if I disconnect the car batteries from the ESC and power the programming card externally, then the programming card works. I can check all the ESC settings and they match my choices. I have powered the radio receiver externally too with the ESC disconnected. I can control the steering using the radio, as normal. Incidentally, I tested the servo and it was fine (it is also brand new). With the ESC reconnected it powers and the radio still powered externally, then the ESC does seem to start and the green light flashes, the fan comes on, the steering works. Unsurprisingly, the motor does not run, because the supply is only 5V. So, what am I missing? When the battery popped did the ESC pop too? What does the flashing red switch light mean? Any other ideas. Commiserations welcome too... I'm truly hoping the ESC is OK or can be fixed. Rich
  5. NOW SOLD ~ For sale here is my Castle Mamba Monster 2 Retro ESC. This is 2-6S Lipo capable and is ideal for anyone doing speed runs with their RC's. This has seen very limited use of maybe 10 runs or so as it was more of a back up ESC (I have two MM2's). These are hard to find generally being the "Retro" version and the MM2 it's self is more of a rarity here in the UK. Would suit predominantly on-road 1/8th buggies, truggies and monster trucks (up to 15lbs in weight) but you could put it in whatever you feel suitable. Please do your research and make sure you're happy it will work for your application before buying. This is used but I have tested it this afternoon and all works as it should (have video if needed). Any questions please feel free to ask. Comes fitted with 8mm bullets as that is what I use but easy to swap. I can remove them for buyer if preferred. Also comes with a printed copy of the "Quick Start Guide". Full manuals available online. Castle Link adjustable settings include: Throttle Braking curve Drag brake Auto LiPo cutoff Punch Control Reverse Type Motor Type Happy to accept questions/offers but I think it's a fair price for this ~ Price is £100 which includes; PayPal fees (@£3 odd est) and Royal Mail 2nd Class Signed For delivery (@£4.20 est) PayPal payment preferred please. Normal forum etiquette please call "Dibs/PM sent" or "I will take this" to be considered first refusal and be transparent to other members followed by a PM to myself to discuss. Thanks for looking.
  6. Hey all, I've bought a Traxxas Rustler XL-5 and it already has a few upgraded in it, primarily being the Hobbywing EZRUN MAX10 ESC and the HobbyWing EZRUN 3652 G2 3300KV Brushless Motor. I'm currently running a 2S LiPo in my car but I'd quite like to upgrade it to a 3S LiPo. I already know that the ESC can handle a 3S LiPo as I just have to reprogram it for 3S, but would the gears in the car itself be able to handle the extra speed from the motor and not wear out quickly? I should also mention that the car has a steel 30 tooth idle gear and a steel ring in the differential, if that makes any difference. Any help is appreciated as I'm quite a noob at RC and don't know a whole load about it. Thanks!
  7. Hi, I’m in real need of help. I’m not an expert as is probably very obvious but I need some advice to get me going. As a kid I did a lot of this with my dad but as time goes by I tried to get back into this as an adult with my son and I’m out of my depth now. I brought a Schumacher icon F1 and assembled the chassis etc... but I just can’t get it wired up. I’ve tried researching as much as I can but I am getting nowhere. I have replaced the connectors so they all connect now but please tell me what I am doing wrong. Couple of issues: 1.) is this how you connect a 2s shorty lipo battery? The white but I use when charging but does it need connecting anywhere on the actual rc car? Also I have a 6 prong motor cable that connects to my esc but my brushless motor has no port for it. Is that right? 2.) when I try to sync my controller up the esc flashes purple, sometimes blue, sometime red. Once I got the controller to operate the servo but now even that’s stoped and the service is locked in place. The motor has never worked though. 3.) Basically I’m in a total mess now and spending hours with no plan or way out. Probably I was a bit stupid trying to do this one first but I’m in it now. If anyone as any advice on how I can wire this up and sync my controller that would be great, like I said I’ve tried lots but i can’t find any step by steps that apply to what I have thanks Carl
  8. Hi guys! I'm brand new here and fairly new to the whole RC thing. I used to dabble a lot as a child but never building my own and I really need some help now! I am building a hovercraft as part of a challenge from work and I need some advice on how to power it. I have a standard cheap amazon controller and receiver. Nothing flashy as I'm not worried too much about range etc. However, it does have six channels, so I can control the different elements of the craft. To provide suitable downforce, I have acquired 2 QF2611-4500KV Brushless motors in a turbine housing to drag air to the underside of the craft (specs below) Moor model: QF2611.KV: 4500 KV.Configuration: 9N6PShaft diameter: approx. 20.2 mm.Stator length: approx. 11 mm.Motor size: approx. 26 x 47 mm.Open circuit current: 2 A.Number of cells: 3 - 4SMax. Continuous power: 280 W.Max. Continuous current: 27 A.Voltage: 11.1VAmpere: 25A.Wattage: 278 W.Thrust: 750 g, 26.5 oz.Efficiency: 2.7 g/W, 0.1 oz/W.Channel barrel outer diameter: approx. 75 mm / 3.7 inches.Weight: 120 g. In order for propulsion, I am not planning to set a land speed record or anything but something to give it some oomph would be great. I basically need a solution to be able to effectively power the 3 motors, the receiver and rudder servo using as little weight as possible maybe. looking at using 2, 2200 mAh 3s lipo's to do this but naturally, I am open to suggestions. I am just trying to use some drone parts and donations in order to keep costs down. I'm 3d printing the chassis, the 1st revision seems a little on the heavy side so no doubt it will be revised, but at this point, I am 99% sure my electrical requirements wont change. Any help, advice or support on this would be greatly appreciated! As you can probably tell, my knowledge in this is very limited. Thanks :)
  9. Hi, Firstly I'm very new to the crawling world (approx 2 months in) so apologies for my lack of knowledge. I have an FTX outback ranger 2.0 (pic attached for info) which was intended as an entry level crawler, which I have modded only on the shell. Short story is that it's now my son's as I already have my sights set on another vehicle. However, I'm pretty sure the 2-in1 ESC receiver is toast due to taking it through water which was too deep and not taking steps straight after to remove ESC and dry etc. I've tried all the drying techniques so resigned to buying a new ESC. I've quickly found out that the standard ESC/receiver is out of stock everywhere for at least a month but I'm keen to get it working ASAP for my son. I'm also not ruling out upgrading the ESC somewhat to allow some modest upgrades for my son (such as drag brake which the standard rig does not have) as well as allow for some future upgrades (like a bigger motor). I have been eyeballing some hobbywing ESCs like the 1060 (based on someone mentioned them) plus a dumbo RC X6 transmitter/receiver. I've been running round in circles trying to figure out if these components will fit, what else I need to buy to make the setup work as well as a basic guide on how it all fits together as because my existing ESC was a 2-in1 it is not clear to me how the ESC, receiver and servo all plug together as the the 2in1 was kind of doing it all for me. Have looked everywhere but I can't seem to find a definitive answer. If it helps I think the standard motor is a 370/390 and the servo is a 3.5Kg. Any help anyone can give me is greatly appreciated and apologies in advance if I have broken any kind of house rules in how and what I have posted. Regards, Lee.
  10. I have a deal on a Ezrun MAX10 SCT 120A I wanted to get, but spec sheet says it's for 1/10 only. Why? The ESC in my 1/8 truggy is also 120A and it works just fine. Why would it not handle a 40xx motor if it's 120A? Is it just for marketing purposes? My motor is a 2200kv Thanks for clarifying.
  11. For sale here is a Hobbywing Xerun XR8-Plus brushless sensored ESC/motor combo. Used condition but tested and working as it should. It is 2-6S Lipo battery capable combo with a whole host of features. Includes original boxes and some parts that came with it originally like ESC mount, screws, sticky pads etc. Some marks to the motor and ESC from usage so please see pictures as they form part of the description. ESC full specs here: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=397211 Motor full specs here: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-xerun-4274sd-brushless-1-8th-sensored-motor-g2-2250kv/rc-car-products/407517 Asking for £168 ono delivered via Royal Mail 2nd Class Signed For delivery (UK mainland only). The price includes PayPal fees which is the preferred payment option. Any questions or offers please feel free to ask/offer. Usual forum etiquette please so first person to say "dibs" or " I will take this" posted in this thread followed by a PM will take it.
  12. Hello just had a new esc under warranty..The motor everything worked on the bench for two minutes and now it’s flashing red again.. steering only working...done everything rebinding reset end points swapped steering and throttle over no luck...I can’t get my head around it I’m not new to rc but I feel like a **** trying to source the problem..I can’t exactly contact the hobby shop and go no it’s actually the motor maybe ? It’s abit of a **** take in my opinion...any ideas fellow arrma fans please
  13. I ordered a cheap QueenHobby ESC. The response time is HORRIBLE. It takes 2-4s to start spinning. At first, I thought it was just a ****ty ESC, but I see people using them on internet and it seems ok. What am I doing wrong? Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kr1R_zf4DY&feature=youtu.be
  14. Evening all, I'm in the market for an ESC to pair with my 3650 52000kv brushless motor. I'm initially going to use it for a few speed runs using a 3s battery for short bursts. but for most of the time I'll use a 2s for general fun and frolics out and about. I'm running a WLTOYS 144001. I'm looking at the 60a or 120a Hobbywing EZ or quickrun ESCs. Questions I have: 1.will I get more top speed out of the 120a ESC vs a 60a ESC? 2. If I primarily use a 2s lipo would it be better to got for the 60a over the 120a? 3. Apart from the size and cost difference is there much performance-wise difference for ,y intemded use between such ESCs? Thanks Mart
  15. I just got tje ESC with its programming card, REV 2.0 I cannot access the advanced settings, neither from the card of from the ESC "set" button, any idea why? Thank you!
  16. First of all, Hi everyone! I've got a smallish RC collection consisting of a 1/16 WPL crawler (ironically my newest RC I got during lockdown), a Team Associated B6, a custom scratch built drift car that's progressing nicely and then the Serpent S411 which I'm attempting to turn into a 2S speedrun car. Like everyone who starts a speedrun build I've got my eye on the current WR @ 132.65mph. As the limiting factor for power is the battery in this case, I've got myself a 3.5T Hobbywing XeRun motor (already technically slightly overvolted on 2S). In theory this is good for more than 70K rpm. Anywho, my question was which ESC should I be going with? I've got two contenders that seem to be strong in my personal opinion; the Hobbywing XeRun 120A SD V2.1 and the SkyRC Toro TS120A Pro-Comp. I have seen a few others but they seem to offer no more features than these two, yet cost a fairly significant chunk more. I'm not too worried about carefully working out my gearing as I'm working on a dyno to help with tuning the setup before I actually take the car out. I'm currently leaning slightly towards the HW because I've had a few ESCs from them in the past and never had one fail (even past the advertised limits). I've been using these forums for years to search for answers, but finally got to the stage where I couldn't find a conclusive answer for a question. I'd really appreciate any help or tips with this project.
  17. SOLD Hobbywing Xerun 150A 1/8th Competition Brushless 6S & HPI Scream 1965KV motor for sale. Good used condition powerful 2-6S capable sensored or sensorless ESC with HPI Scream sensorless brushless motor. On an eBay auction or eBay "Buy It Now". Any questions please ask £94.99 plus postage or have a bid on the auction. Sold via eBay auction thank you
  18. I'm at my wits end again! Spent 2 hours today trying to calibrate my esc and throttle control ad my car was going out of whack. It's no use following instructions as they're wrong. Are there any FTX owners out ther who can talk me through the process, one that actually works? I've done it before but now I'm putting it down to sheer luck. I can o ly ever manage to get one direction sorted and then when the car is on the ground it shudders and wont drive. My take on calibration is: Esc on with set button pressed Then pull full throttle til 1 beep let go Push to full reverse until 2nd beep let go Leave in neutral for 3rd beep Switch off esc I've done this and a ton of variations and it still wont calibrate. All components working fine and the esc is relatively new. Can anyone help?
  19. Hi, My car FTX outlaw brushless model currently doesn't work and I'm at a loss what to fix. Couple of days ago I got some grit stuck in the spur gear it worked it's way out but dented the teeth on the gear. It's at this point that reverse was playing up. Took it home, replaced the spur gear and fired her up. All fine, steering and forwards, but still no reverse not even wheel freewheeling. At the same time my ESC stopped doing the triple start up beeps wheneverit was powered up. I tried reverse and got nothing although I swear I could hear a noise emimating from the ESC whilst reverse was engaged. One more time powering on and then nothing no forwards no reverse no beeps from ESC, the fan powers on and it has the orange LED but no others come one when I try fwd/rev. So I've tried recalibrating it using the LEDS on the ESC it appears to register each direction as it fkashes red when I enagage fwd/rev. In short my ESC doesn't make the start up sounds, I have no response from the car when pulling fwd/rev. Any ideas where I go from here?
  20. Hi I have an older car that I have not driven that much. I took it out and dusted it off charged the 2 NiMH 6 cell batteries but getting very mixed results. My Voltz 5300 mAh seems to charge and a multimeter shows it has a voltage of 8.2 from a search on the internet I believe it supposed to get closer to 8.7. When I use it in the car it will not drive on the road. If I lift it up the wheels will spin quite fast but then it will not move on the road it almost rocks back and forth in one place. Is this just the Battery that has gone and is not giving the car enough power to drive. My stock battery SC 3800 mAh that came with the car works a little better. I tested with a multi meter and after charging this is around 8.4v. The car will run but if you pull the trigger hard to full throttle it will not do and tends to stop start. If you gradually pull the trigger it will get up a little speed and run smoothly but you can't do any sudden acceleration or it goes back to the stop start. My Car is a BSD Flux Assault version 1 Ezrun ESC Motor is a KV3570 I think i know the answer but want to check as I'm novice at this. I assume the issue with the stopping and starting is caused by the low voltage on the battery pack is that right? Is there anyway to re-condition the batteries? Whilst they are maybe 4-5 years old they have only been charged maybe 20-30 times. Although they were left in the box for maybe 12 months unused. I'm current have quite a basic charger Vector AC/DC NX85 which can only charge it can't discharge the batteries. If i have to replace the batteries i was considering moving to LiPo good or bad idea?
  21. I’m new to this but need some help. Bought FTX Carnage for my son. All working well then suddenly stopped driving. Read on forums that’s it’s probably the ESC. So changed that (replaced like for like). Still the same problem. Steering works. No beeps (‘do re me’ as they call it in the manual) from ESC on start up. No power to wheels. Its a brushed version. NiMH batteries. FTX6557W ESC. Motor works fine with power supplied separately. RX flashes when accelerator trigger pulled on TX. So, binded ok I think. No smoke or smell or burning or anything like that. Checked connections and all seems ok to my eyes. Please help. It’s as dusty as hell out there and my son wants to kick a ton of it up!!
  22. Wanted - ESC for Kyosho mini inferno (half 8).
  23. Here we have a Trackstar Brushless combo with 13.5T censured motor and 80a ESC. Has had about 8 packs through it on a small astro track. £30 posted, fees included.
  24. Brand new Traxxas XL5hv ESC removed from a brand new TRX-4, never used. 3s capable crawler ESC. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-xl-5hv-3s-electronic-speed-controller/rc-car-products/422720 £45 posted ONO, buyer to pay fees please.
  25. hydro

    16s

    any one know anything about this http://fightercatracing.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&category_id=10&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=217&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1
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