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convert hyper 7 black or buy a radix?


Yrkoon

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hey guys/lassies im in a bit of a conundrum, i like my buggies and currently have 2 8 scale nitro buggies, the ishima rave and a hyper 7 black.

 

i want one of them to remain nitro and my hyper 7 black engine has always been a bit problematic, so makes sense to convert that to leccy.

 

i have a hyper vse already and want a second 8 scale leccy buggy, nothing mad just 4s just so i have 2 going if one breaks etc

 

now the thing is how much would it cost to convert my hyper 7 and would i need to change diffs etc.....? or am i better off just buying a radix as a second buggy?

 

im guessing over 100 for esc and motor and possibly 50 for a motor mount and thats where i stumble, i have no idea what to buy 😞

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The most expensive things after the electrics is the motor mount:

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobao-hyper-ss-vse-motor-mount/rc-car-products/372374

 

You have a few choices on how you want to mount the battery, but two of the top choices are either the VSe mount:

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=372372&gclid=CjwKCAjw9r-DBhBxEiwA9qYUpdXp0bBP5Gm9_M2_bVEqjp6ErjIf9N6hqdwY6tum6zKRsOCvTXifSxoCY2sQAvD_BwE

 

Or the Losi 8 mount:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Losi-8IGHT-E-Battery-Tray-LOSA4461-/401103264062

 

However there are many other choices.

 

Changing the diffs is optional with a lot of people saying the Spiders are not needed but you will need to increase the oil weight in them greatly at least.

 

You can very simply do this, or be a little bit picky about how you do it (I fall into the last one)

 

Ian...

 

*Edit - Stupid enter button!!*

 

Edited by Fuzzock
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You can get a mount for £10 posted from AliX, you need to hack saw off 3mm or so, but it works as that's how I've converted my second Hyper 7. 

 

https://a.aliexpress.com/_v6MOL7

 

You need a decent lipo and charger, ideally you want 4S and I'm liking my 2200kv setup, as well as the 2000kv setup (both have different gearing to suit...) 

 

I've kinda logged my journey for the conversions, I'll send you a PM with the link if it's of interest to you. 

 

From what I've experienced, if you want to do it and have a reliable, fast and fun experience you'll need:

- 4/6S lipos

- Some decent rubber (I run GRPs and Arrma Katars)

- A decent ESC, remember the H7 isn't the lightest thing out there...go for 150A and match your motor KV to the lipos you're going to be running 

- Buy some threadlock

- Rebuild the diffs /stock up on silicone oil 

 

The instant torque will tease out weaknesses, you'll find screws come loose (hence threadlock is really important). 

 

I find mine on 4S is tame, and that's with a 2200KV motor...perhaps it's something to do with my expectations...6S for me is on the brink of controllability, which I absolutely love. 4S I can control too easily...

Edited by Bert_w164
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I have two H7's love em, built like tanks, good honest simple RC engineering, easily available and cheap parts. But I guess the answer to your question is are you the type who enjoys sitting at your bench tinkering, mug of tea to hand, as much as you enjoy driving (like me), or do you like to just rip open a box, charge a battery and go bash?   As well as that angle, there is also quite a cost difference to consider.  Be interesting to hear which way you go.

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I run a 19T on my 2200kv. If you aren't interested in top speed may be something slightly lower, I use a 16T for the 2000kv and it is very nippy and still has a good top speed. 

 

2200kv should give you head room for 6S too, it'll be over 50000rpm but unless you're nailing the throttle for extended periods you should be fine. 

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1 hour ago, Bert_w164 said:

I run a 19T on my 2200kv. If you aren't interested in top speed may be something slightly lower, I use a 16T for the 2000kv and it is very nippy and still has a good top speed. 

 

2200kv should give you head room for 6S too, it'll be over 50000rpm but unless you're nailing the throttle for extended periods you should be fine. 

Cheers m8  sounds good 🙂

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2 questions , what size is the pinion, is it mod 1.0 and if i manage to mess up installing the cheap motor mount is the vse one a direct fit?

 

dad has a hobao battery tray i can use if needed, thinking of upgrading my kronos to a bigger one and i might see if my existing kronos one will fit the hyper 7.

 

should be a few weeks before the motor mount comes so i will have cash for a proper brushless system when it comes to that stage, thinking the hobbywing 150 amp mentioned plus hobbywing motor but as i said plenty of time to consider my options 🙂

 

heres a few pics of the hyper in question, it has been well used and currently has slicks on it but i have a spare set of nandas in good condition 🙂

 

bonus cat pic 😛

zc8CuMi.jpg

 

1MN8HJb.jpg

 

1VsF0rm.jpg

 

reckon im deffo going for getting that bad boy running again, much cheaper than buying a new one and i have a big soft spot for it, the engine kept throwing pull starters right off when running and it was eating os8 plugs for breakfast, i had to resort to no pull start and got a starter box lol

 

edit : i have loads of very fine stainless steel mesh i used to use for wicks on some ecig tanks, reckon i will cover the big hole in the shell with that once the nitro engine is out 🙂

Edited by Yrkoon
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i have one Hobao 7 pro in good shape,  the nitro motor is done in this

 

I will convert it to E buggy

 

I got 2200kv 4074 motor , this must be good to this buggy ?

what pinion if you want decent speed with just 4s ?

Is it MOD 1 or  Mod 0.8 pinion i need buy to this ? it must fit the stock center diff perfekt offcourse 🙂

i will go with VSE motor mount, 

 

thank you for helping

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mod 0.8 is identical to 32dp ones which i use in my ten scale models so its not that, i am unsure what mod size to use but im guessing 1.0 but waiting for cofirmation here before i order a few, also i do not know if the vse motor mount will be a direct fit or if it requires drilling etc

 

 

 

 

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The IC Hyper 7 chassis is missing the extra holes needed for the VSe mount, and the battery tray that you choose.

 

There are various ways round this, from drilling and countersinking extra holes (At least one needed for the VSe mount) to positioning the trays so that they use as many of the standard holes as possible.

 

I went with the drilling option so that I could put the tray etc exactly where I wanted it, and I also used sheet Carbon fibre to  cover the rather large holes left by the removal of the engine to reduce the dirt ingress. 

 

Best thing about a Hyper conversion is that there are many ways that it can be done. Have a search of the forum, and Google Images for it to get some ideas before you spend to much. 🙂

 

Ian...

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2 minutes ago, Fuzzock said:

The IC Hyper 7 chassis is missing the extra holes needed for the VSe mount, and the battery tray that you choose.

 

There are various ways round this, from drilling and countersinking extra holes (At least one needed for the VSe mount) to positioning the trays so that they use as many of the standard holes as possible.

 

I went with the drilling option so that I could put the tray etc exactly where I wanted it, and I also used sheet Carbon fibre to  cover the rather large holes left by the removal of the engine to reduce the dirt ingress. 

 

Best thing about a Hyper conversion is that there are many ways that it can be done. Have a search of the forum, and Google Images for it to get some ideas before you spend to much. 🙂

 

Ian...

 

kool that info helps both of us 🙂

 

what mod of pinion do you use?

 

@m-racing i have heard the vse mount requires drilling the chassis

Edited by Yrkoon
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2 minutes ago, Fuzzock said:

The IC Hyper 7 chassis is missing the extra holes needed for the VSe mount, and the battery tray that you choose.

 

There are various ways round this, from drilling and countersinking extra holes (At least one needed for the VSe mount) to positioning the trays so that they use as many of the standard holes as possible.

 

I went with the drilling option so that I could put the tray etc exactly where I wanted it, and I also used sheet Carbon fibre to  cover the rather large holes left by the removal of the engine to reduce the dirt ingress. 

 

Best thing about a Hyper conversion is that there are many ways that it can be done. Have a search of the forum, and Google Images for it to get some ideas before you spend to much. 🙂

 

Ian...

 

there is a good threat about this here

 

need search that tomorrow

 

i will order all parts to convert my Hobao 7 next week

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No worries..

 

Here are a couple of threads from this forum that are worth a read (But there are many more, so don't treat these as bible ones.)

 

And because I have an ego, here is my ongoing Hyper ST and Hyper 7 thread 🙄

Ian...

 

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12 minutes ago, Fuzzock said:

No worries..

 

Here are a couple of threads from this forum that are worth a read (But there are many more, so don't treat these as bible ones.)

 

And because I have an ego, here is my ongoing Hyper ST and Hyper 7 thread 🙄

Ian...

 

 

sweet cheers m8, i went to order a few pinions there but out of stock for the ones i wanted, plus i dont know what shaft size the motor ill buy will have 🙂

 

this is deffo gonna work out a lot cheaper than a radix 🙂

 

in a month i reckon ill have it up and running on leccy 🙂

 

edit:

i think it has a spectrum 25kg servo in it as well, most expensive thing will be the esc and motor and i have tons of spare receivers 🙂

Edited by Yrkoon
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It's mod 1. The vse mount IMG_20210325_171835.thumb.jpg.0dc8b34a71fdec72b1dd45ce1b7f01f4.jpg is a direct fit, I have it on my hyper 7. My wife's hyper 7 has the £10 mount. 

IMG_20210324_130049__01.jpg

 

Motor shaft will be 5mm almost certainly as that seems to be the norm for 1/8 scale motors. 

 

There's not much to mess up with the cheap mount, the leg closest to the side tray is 3mm longer than it needs to be. As long as you remove 3mm, or more, you'll be fine. If under, just sand away with 100-ish grit. The YouTube link I sent you has a video in it about the cheap mount and what was done to make it fit, with the area that needs cutting shown 🙂 ps I spy an engine, I've got a Hobao Dominator MT which I'm giving to my niece/brother...in need of an engine as they want to keep it nitro. 

 

If you do sell the engine please let me know 😁

Edited by Bert_w164
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23 minutes ago, Bert_w164 said:

It's mod 1. The vse mount IMG_20210325_171835.thumb.jpg.0dc8b34a71fdec72b1dd45ce1b7f01f4.jpg is a direct fit, I have it on my hyper 7. My wife's hyper 7 has the £10 mount. 

IMG_20210324_130049__01.jpg

 

Motor shaft will be 5mm almost certainly as that seems to be the norm for 1/8 scale motors. 

 

There's not much to mess up with the cheap mount, the leg closest to the side tray is 3mm longer than it needs to be. As long as you remove 3mm, or more, you'll be fine. If under, just sand away with 100-ish grit. The YouTube link I sent you has a video in it about the cheap mount and what was done to make it fit, with the area that needs cutting shown 🙂 ps I spy an engine, I've got a Hobao Dominator MT which I'm giving to my niece/brother...in need of an engine as they want to keep it nitro. 

 

If you do sell the engine please let me know 😁

sweet m8, yeh i had a quick look at the vid earlier but i was half asleep and using my phone lol

 

your hyper looks sweet as.....  🙂

 

i couldnt in good faith sell that engine, while its running and even sitting there idling it will knacker pull starts, the car is sitting there all awesome looking making noise and u see the whole pull start spring out and it eats up several os8 plugs every time i used it.... it is defective

Edited by Yrkoon
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