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Traxxas trx4 owners thread.


Gaz!

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21 hours ago, Bigjimknickers said:

Mines here! I know some people don’t like Traxxas but wow, the quality just shines through, the colour of the shell, the weight of the model, it just all feels very high quality. IMO.

now for a light kit!

any recommendations?

traxxas tqi link &light kit?

294E6E12-AA31-4018-B295-9A1170F8A42C.jpeg

DA1E86DE-4E98-430A-AE95-1D08A4A814FE.jpeg

Really liking the look of the Bronco, they do the model inthe UK (real one) and it looks class

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Just been to the workshop, chopped the esc lead & soldered an XT60 & went through the batteries, I have a few 3s & loads of 2s all a bit puffy but useabl, there is a nifty little 3s 1000mah pack I can use on the front but I need a strap? Anyone know the Traxxas part no?

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13 hours ago, Redback said:

Its to heavy for the fusion and there is no way to fix it once the esc pops, the Axe r2 550 3300kv is what we and lots use its a beast on 3s.

I had a beer last night and watched a few youtube videos and ended up ordering the 2300kv one =/ ah well. We will see how it goes

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8 hours ago, Bigjimknickers said:

So looks like the 1000mah 3s is a bit small so what do you guys use on the front tray? 3s? What’s the min C rating too?

 

 

C rating doesnt matter as its not pulling high amps, and most c rating are fluff and made up anyway.
No one really uses the front trays afaik for running batteries, maybe a winch battery or dedicated servo battery up front.
I got the esc on the front tray to give some forward bias. You want atleast a 3000mha to get more than 20min run time.

That being said, my batteries give me 5 min run time and have 6000mha so if the battries are poor or cant sustain the power it will cutout.
these are 60/90c rated batteries but im sure its the resistance and age thats killed the runtime not the truck.
 

Edited by Redback
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I’ll have to check my 5000 & 3300 mah 3s lipos, so far I’ve only used the 1000mah Lipo just to test everything & run indoors.

atm I have a nanotech 3s 5000 mah Traxxas rip off in the middle tray, I think I’ve been overthinking the forward Lipo thing. 
(I read it was one of the best mods to get forward bias).

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Just now, Bigjimknickers said:

I think I’ve been overthinking the forward Lipo thing. 

(I read it was one of the best mods to get forward bias).

On 3s you will get massive runtime as its going slow.
They are top heavy trucks by nature, best investment is 75g brass portal covers adds loads of weight as low as it will go.
We also use heavy weight rims but some dont like rotating mass on the drive line.
Avoid adding brass on the chassis as sprung weight is bad and makes it sad. 😅


20220910_131529.jpg

Tonka

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3 hours ago, Kpowell911 said:

Fitted this:

 

q7xxW7J.jpeg

 

its very smooth and slow etc, but the truck seems noisier/harder to roll. Almost as if the pinion/spur mesh is too tight, but its using the same pinion/hole as stock. Any ideas?


Check it again its easy to make an error, make sure the pinion isnt rubbing on the gear or housing too.
Dont forget to turn up the bec volatage to 7.4 for your new servo, just watch the built in esc they do pop on the old fusions.

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25 minutes ago, Redback said:


Check it again its easy to make an error, make sure the pinion isnt rubbing on the gear or housing too.
Dont forget to turn up the bec volatage to 7.4 for your new servo, just watch the built in esc they do pop on the old fusions.

Was gonna leave the BEC at 6.0v cause of the RX/micro servos?

 

Do people generally upgrade the motor mount? The plastic one seems to flex a lot?

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22 minutes ago, Kpowell911 said:

Was gonna leave the BEC at 6.0v cause of the RX/micro servos?

 

Do people generally upgrade the motor mount? The plastic one seems to flex a lot?

Havent done mine, doesnt flex enough to cause the mesh to skip so didnt waste money on it, money better put into brass.
Yes if your on stock servos 6v but those servos come to life at 7v+ its day and night performance difference if you pinch into tight rocks allot.

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