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What did you do to your model today?


stretch

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finished my konghead today,  I convert it from a crawler back to a bashing truck with the stock tires and 3800kv castle motor and with high speed gears.

 

I did some soldering today,  solder 6mm bullet connectors to my 3s batteries and to my new hobbywing esc and made some adapter for charging the batteries, most of my batteries are 2s with xt- 60 connectors.

 

I am happy that I bought a dremel gas torch for solder thick wires and connectors , makes it a lot  easier to do then with a solder iron.

 

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49472703473_6bf60ba8e8_c.jpg

 

 

49472703718_89c76b6ea1_c.jpg

 

Edited by No brains
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finished my konghead today,  I convert it from a crawler back to a bashing truck with the stock tires and 3800kv castle motor and with high speed gears.
 
I did some soldering today,  solder 6mm bullet connectors to my 3s batteries and to my new hobbywing esc and made some adapter for charging the batteries, most of my batteries are 2s with xt- 60 connectors.
 
I am happy that I bought a dremel gas torch for solder thick wires and connectors , makes it a lot  easier to do then with a solder iron.


Might pick one of those gas irons up too.

How does it make it easier?
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2 minutes ago, Paul Busby said:


 

 


Might pick one of those gas irons up too.

How does it make it easier?

 

 

 

Power! That's it!

 

I've got an Iroda, superb kit. Soldering with a naked flame is great on big stuff. 

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Power! That's it!
 
I've got an Iroda, superb kit. Soldering with a naked flame is great on big stuff. 
Maybe not great for putting a new balance cable on a cell though [emoji16]

I've a DOA battery (got a refund) that needs fixing, and a turnigy one that needs a new balance cable on... Think I'll stick to my Hakko.
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Just now, Paul Busby said:

Maybe not great for putting a new balance cable on a cell though emoji16.png

I've a DOA battery (got a refund) that needs fixing, and a turnigy one that needs a new balance cable on... Think I'll stick to my Hakko.

 

The kits come with various tips and bits, just use a small tip and turn the flame down. 

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20 minutes ago, Paul Busby said:


 

 


Might pick one of those gas irons up too.

How does it make it easier?

 

 

for thick wires an open flame is real  fast to solder in a few seconds you have soldered a thick wire without heating the whole wire up and solder bullet connector with an open flame is real easy, for my it was a pain to do it with an solder iron and I was getting frustated with soldering, now it is an easy job.

for smaller wires and connectors a solder iron is good enough.

Edited by No brains
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for thick wires an open flame is real  fast to solder in a few seconds you have soldered a thick wire without heating the whole wire up and solder bullet connector with an open flame is real easy, for my it was a pain to do it with an solder iron and I was getting frustated with soldering, now it is an easy job.
for smaller wires and connectors a solder iron is good enough.
How about the connectors on ESCs?

You go flame or iron for that?
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6 minutes ago, Paul Busby said:

How about the connectors on ESCs?

You go flame or iron for that?

 

I did that to with a open flame,  but the bullet connectors I use you put together when you soldered the bullet on the wire, if you want to solder a xt-90 of something like that it is not possible with a open flame because you melt the connector.

Edited by No brains
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Sory guys, but about soldering with open flame...there is just everything wrong with this. Way to high temperature causing an oxidation and burning the flux. At the end you have bad solder joint. This is a big no go.

It's way better to buy higher power soldering iron, good soldering wire and maybe some additional flux. But please don't do it with the flame.

I do consider myself as a professional as i deal with industrial electronic repair on everyday basis (i own a company for industrial automation and electric/electronic repairs)

 

That Dremel can be good for some quick repairs when you dont have access to the mains power, but i was extremly unhappy with it as it broke down quite soon. Much better choice is Ersa independent 75, lighter and more balanced.

 

P.S. i don't want to be rude, just to give some advices

Edited by zlab
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1 hour ago, zlab said:

Sory guys, but about soldering with open flame...there is just everything wrong with this. Way to high temperature causing an oxidation and burning the flux. At the end you have bad solder joint. This is a big no go.

It's way better to buy higher power soldering iron, good soldering wire and maybe some additional flux. But please don't do it with the flame.

I do consider myself as a professional as i deal with industrial electronic repair on everyday basis (i own a company for industrial automation and electric/electronic repairs)

 

That Dremel can be good for some quick repairs when you dont have access to the mains power, but i was extremly unhappy with it as it broke down quite soon. Much better choice is Ersa independent 75, lighter and more balanced.

 

P.S. i don't want to be rude, just to give some advices

 

I think a lot of us flame users do it because we found that the common 50 Watt irons weren't up to the job, at least that's how I came to use the flame. 

 

I reckon you should start a tutorial thread (if none yet exist), maybe it'll get given sticky status! 👍👌

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I think a lot of us flame users do it because we found that the common 50 Watt irons weren't up to the job, at least that's how I came to use the flame. 

 

I reckon you should start a tutorial thread (if none yet exist), maybe it'll get given sticky status! [emoji106][emoji108]

My Hakko handles the job fine, and I do a lot of soldering for work, so I do know what I'm doing, I just never tinkered with gas irons as I was always told not to bother with them and didn't see any need to argue given the standard of work from the people telling me.

 

Figured it was worth revisiting when many people here tell me otherwise.

 

 

 

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20 minutes ago, Tug said:

 

I think a lot of us flame users do it because we found that the common 50 Watt irons weren't up to the job, at least that's how I came to use the flame. 

 

I reckon you should start a tutorial thread (if none yet exist), maybe it'll get given sticky status! 👍👌

good idea, i will do some sort of tutorial in the following days.

I think it could be helpfull, as with proper technique you can easily solder 6mm2 (10awg) or 10mm2 (8awg) wire with the 60W station, set to 350°C. Also XT60 or XT90 connectors are not a problem.

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4 minutes ago, zlab said:

good idea, i will do some sort of tutorial in the following days.

I think it could be helpfull, as with proper technique you can easily solder 6mm2 (10awg) or 10mm2 (8awg) wire with the 60W station, set to 350°C. Also XT60 or XT90 connectors are not a problem.

 

My advice would be one thread with multiple posts, as opposed to one long rambling post. Then you can tackle different aspects, myths and misinformation. 

 

I look forward to it! 👍

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1 hour ago, zlab said:

good idea, i will do some sort of tutorial in the following days.

I think it could be helpfull, as with proper technique you can easily solder 6mm2 (10awg) or 10mm2 (8awg) wire with the 60W station, set to 350°C. Also XT60 or XT90 connectors are not a problem.

I'll second that, I'd be interested in a tutorial!

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Not strictly my car, but my boys RC, that counts right!? [emoji848]

After a heavy impact yesterday I stripped down the back end to check all was ok. The motor had come loose and did make a grinding sound. Luckily the pinion gear was ok and the motor itself seems ok, not bent at all. So put it all back together again.
Thought I had a picture with everything thing out but it seems to have disappeared. But here's one mid dis-asemblef99ea2dacb26810b22376d499d01f4b8.jpg

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

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started to build my rock rey kit, build the  front of  the car and the rear axle today, used the ssd alloy front bulkhead and exotek alloy diff housings, build the rear diff open with gears instead of a diff locker, and I used  the hot racing alloy third  member.

 

 

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49488626926_20e1e9ddaa_c.jpg

Edited by No brains
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