Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


zlab last won the day on March 15

zlab had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

zlab's Achievements


Explorer (4/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • First Post
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges



  1. Hi! It's a Hobbywing Max10 SCT (120A) combo with a 3660 4000kv motor
  2. About a year ago i bought trackstar waterproof ESC from HK, it released the magic smoke in the first week of use... sent it back and got a replacement one (process that takes almost a month 🙄). The new one lasted about 5 packs... Got tired of it and demanded a refund, i bought ezrun MAX10SCT after that and it works perfectly.... That trackstar piece of crap is worth nothing and only good for the trash bin...
  3. I only have two pieces, need to buy a rifle too, but still not decided what... Thinking about something chambered in .308 First one is CZ SP01 shadow viper, which is originaly a CZ 75 shadow, but heavily modified at wafen oschatz in germany. 6inch barell and custom milled 6 inch slide. Also trigerring mechansim is changed. Really a great piece, it can make hole in hole at 25m 😁 chambered in 9x19mm Second one is a S&W 14-3 revolver chambered in .38special with 6 inch barrel. With this one we have a love and hate relationship as just can't get used to it... trigering is very smooth, but it just don't want to cooperate with my hand 😅 EDIT: noticed just now, that you are talking about air rifles... After some search, i see that in UK things are very hard on shooting sport. Is it even possible to get firearm license? I live in EU country and the law is not easy about that, but at least it is possible...
  4. Hi guys! well it's been quite a while... last summer i gave up on carnage, as it was constantly breaking the diffs... Then about two weeks ago i took it off the shelf and decide to give it another try, rebuilded the diffs and for now it seems to hold on well, ran around 6 packs on it... I think i found the problem and i am angry on myself, that i did'nt notice that before 🙄 Too much suspension travel... i remember exeprimenting with the shock mounting position, which i now noticed caused that much suspension travel, that when suspension was in it's end position, the rear dogbones and front cvd's were pushing on the diff cups... This could effectivelly messed the gear mesh on every jump and bump. Well this is my theory, will see how it will behave now... I also finally mounted the hardened steel spur, no more plastic gears Oh and the carnage got two new sets of tyres: https://www.prolineracing.com/product/1-10-trencher-lp-front-rear-2.8-mt-tires-mounted-12mm-blk-raid-2/PRO1015910.html https://www.prolineracing.com/product/1-10-street-fighter-lp-fr-rr-2.8-mt-tires-mounted-12mm-blk-raid-2/PRO1016110.html Here it is, all dirty with the new street tyres to be tested...
  5. i would open the motor on the rear and then tap the shaft on the pinion side. The shaft should slide out of the pinion and front bearing... meanwhile you can replace the motor bearings as it will be disassembled completely...
  6. Diff gears stripping would sound very different and believe me, you would know it... It's simple, the same as you did on video, does the shaft and center driveshaft turns or not? If not, then it's the clutch
  7. cant really see from the video, but does the slipper shaft turns?
  8. one thing i need to mention is that i am not from uk... i have no idea how it is now with shipping to uk from the eu, probably you will need to import it and pay the taxes 🤔
  9. i am now waiting for some new parts to give them to my friend who owns a machining shop, so he can give me a quote for the custom machined parts... I have two options in my head: 1. copy of the original diff spur and pinion, but from far better material 2. new custom diff housings (bulkheads) to fit a diff from some other model that is known to be tough and that the part is widelly available (traxxas for example)
  10. Could also be due to to long/to thin wiring from the battery to ESC. For example, by the calculator if you have 12AWG wiring in total of 30cm (each wire 15cm), the resistance is around 0,003 ohm. Then let's say on the connectors we have 0,001 ohm in total (just an assumption) Internal resistance of the battery 0,003 ohm for each cell,so for a 3S Lipo, this gives us 0,009ohm for the pack. Let's add a 0,001ohm for the ESC itself (depends on where on the PCB the actual measurement is done) So a total of 0,014ohm. Doesn't seem much? Now introduce a 100A current spike in there and you get a voltage drop of 1,4V in total on the ESC voltage measurment. So if we have a 3S battery, the ESC sees that as 0,47V per cell. Of course the current draw is much less in average, BUT if the ESC is not done properly (not averaging the measurement but instead just trips on the voltage drop) then yes, this can be a problem.... So it would be good if you could provide some more information, like: -cross section of the wiring (in AWG or mm2) -length of wiring -internal resistance of the battery -are connectors OK (how warm are they after the run?)
  11. Iain, do you have any multimeter at the hand? Or if you maybe know someone who has it? You should check the resistance between all three wires on the motor (1-2, 1-3, 2-3), they should be the same or at least very close. I suspect that your motor could have a winding failure...
  12. I think that the main problem would be, that i am not located in the UK. Even if we would manage to make them for a reasonable price, i think that it would be a huge pain selling them to the UK 🙄
  13. i have the carbon fibre top plate and still have problems with diffs. The rear diff could be affected by the chassis flex because of the relatively long shaft which is bearinged on the chassis on one side, thus resulting in diff pinion not having the constant mesh to the diff spur. But front diff? Not really, at least not that much that it would put the stress to the gears... I put a lot of attention into assembling them and still have problems... I check the runout of every diff with the dial (not allowing more than 0,05mm), carefully check the mesh and shim it properly, use quality grease... and still after about 10 battery packs i need to change them. I think the problem is in material, for the stock setup it's ok, but as soon as you put some more power in there, they are the weakest part of the car. I was playing with the idea of manufacturing a small batch of those from proper material, but i think the costs would be just to high...
  14. Well to be honest, i was too lazy to search for the body that would fit. I would love to have something more durable, but i had to order something that would fit for sure... The look has nothing to do with it, would be happy with anything. Ok, maybe not the Tesla cybertruck 😂
  15. i use this stuff, it works great for me... I think that Shoe goe is widely used for that, just because someone used it a long time ago, as it was the only thing he had at hand... For me a shoe goe is more of a myth than a usefull thing, as there are now many specialised glues for different uses...
  • Create New...