Hobao Hyper 7 conversion to brushless/lipo.

[R53_]

Good evening. 
 

This question has probably been asked dozens of times but could anyone list what items I would need to convert my old Nitro Hyper 7 to brushless/lipo? 
 

I am a complete amateur when it comes to electric RC and trying to understand what esc and motor I require is a bit of a minefield. I believe the sweet spot in batteries are 3/4S but then I could be wrong on that matter too. 
 

Also do I need to keep the two disk brakes on the car or are they practically redundant due to the electric motor or would I still need to run two servos? 
 

Here’s the car in question. 
 

Cheers

 

R53_

[Kpowell911]

So you would bin off the throttle/brake servo a long with all the brake system and linkages. Usually on a Hyper 7, people cut down the servo deck so its just got the mounts for the steering servo. 

 

You’d then need a:

 

Motor Mount

Battery Tray

 

Then electrics:

 

ESC - 120a-150a suitable for 3s-6s

Motor - 42 sized can, at least 68 long, and around 2000-2500kv

 

Lipo and charger

Pinion

[Stormbringer]

My son and i used this combo on our H7 conversions 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-ezrun-max8-with-2200kv-motor-combo-397267

[Ross9999992]

5s I found to be the sweet spot with a 2200kv…4s was slow for me and 6s they say breaks things.

 

VS motor mount I believe fits as the simple option and then yeah a battery tray.

 

You can go further and add a rx box and esc mount plate or they can just be stuck directly to the chassis if you want to keep it simple.

 

I also run a 150a esc and 4274 motor similar to what storm linked 👍🏻

[Stormbringer]

Theres also an £11 motor mount on allie express for the hyper st that fits in the h7 

My son used it for his conversion but it took 10 days to arrive but i used the vse mount in mine as i didnt want to wait lol 

Both are holding up well 

[Stormbringer]

Heres a link to my h7 conversion

https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/247049-storms-h-7-tq-conversion/#comments

[Redback]

14 hours ago, Ross9999992 said:

5s I found to be the sweet spot with a 2200kv…4s was slow for me and 6s they say breaks things.

 

VS motor mount I believe fits as the simple option and then yeah a battery tray.

 

You can go further and add a rx box and esc mount plate or they can just be stuck directly to the chassis if you want to keep it simple.

 

I also run a 150a esc and 4274 motor similar to what storm linked 👍🏻

6s breaks things?
I run my hyper on 8s as do many others speed running and they hold up just fine.
Hyper battery tray comes with esc mount, and i found the hobao dc1 rx box works well or ftx outlaw rx box from the alloy chassis.

If you have a big esc, you can also make a basic mount and the esc should fitt ontop of the center diff brace.
Can also side mount a battery tray and it will just squeeze under the shell.

 

[Ross9999992]

Well done. Here, take a 🍪.

[Redback]

1 hour ago, Ross9999992 said:

Well done. Here, take a 🍪.

nom nom, was only trying to be helpful 😕

[R53_]

Thanks everyone for the responses! Got some valuable info to take on board. Next step is to create my shopping list! 👍

[Yrkoon]

23 minutes ago, R53_ said:

Thanks everyone for the responses! Got some valuable info to take on board. Next step is to create my shopping list! 👍

heres mine freshly completed with the 10 quid or so ali xpress motor mount 🙂

a before pic

 

edit: for the big holes in the shell i used stainless steel mesh, had a load for ecig wicks lying about 🙂

 

Edited January 3, 2022 by Yrkoon

[R53_]

On 02/01/2022 at 21:25, Stormbringer said:

My son and i used this combo on our H7 conversions 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-ezrun-max8-with-2200kv-motor-combo-397267

does this have two connections for two batteries? 

[Nitroholic]

That one does.

 

Depends how you want to rig up your battery pack.

 

Lets say you want to run 4S ...... you could buy a 4S pack....or you could buy  a pair of 2S packs, and run them in series. Thats what that wiring setup does.

 

I run my batteries on bullet connectors, and I have a mix of 2 and 3S packs. I can combine them in setups of 4S, 5S or 6S depending on what I plug together. I also have cars that run on 2S or 3S packs....hence my decision to work that way. I have to be careful, as if I don;t watch what I am doin, I could plug a battery into itself....which is very bad. Sparks will happen....as will the death of the battery in all likelihood. Using proper connectors like that prevents mis-connection..... but.....that setup won't work on a single 4s pack, say, unless you have a lead to bridge the spare connectors and complete the circuit.

 

It really depends how you want to set things up and what range of batteries you plan on getting. If this will be your only electric car, and you plan on getting a single pack....then a simpler setup is better.

If you may want to mix and match batteries, and potentially use them in other cars needing different voltages....then that gives you other options.

 

edit: on the modelsport page for that ESC....you can see this:   https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/overlander-xt90-esc-loop-lead-connector-418912 

That would bridge one connector, and basically turn it into a single lead.

Edited January 16, 2022 by Nitroholic

[Yrkoon]

1 hour ago, R53_ said:

does this have two connections for two batteries? 

 

yes it does and model sport will fit what ever connectors you require, we use xt90 ones and run 4s on our converted hypers.

 

some times we use a single 4s battery and plug a loop connector onto the spare connector, other times we use both connecters with a pair of 2s batteries 🙂

 

if only using a single 4s batt i use one of these https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/418912

on the other connecter.

 

edit: i dont remember having to solder connectors on the esc and the one linked has the xt90's fitted, i started to melt a deans connection before on my kronos so switched to xt 90 on all my batts that get used on 8 scale models 🙂

 

edit 2: a solder iron is the rc model car users freind, you can easily change connectors on batteries etc  🙂

Edited January 16, 2022 by Yrkoon

[Bert_w164]

I'm feeling peckish and seek a cookie too, so will add these things run on 6S fine all day long. I've bashed mine, crashed it, done some speed running attempts and if I'm honest treated it with little to no mechanical sympathy, as to me its a means to go nuts driving instead of doing it in the 1:1...And in the end what retired my Hyper 7 was me finding other buggies I prefer. I still have it in parts in a bag somewhere, I inspected all the diffs and moving parts after 6S runs for almost a year...And then built a friend a new diff from the same unit to use in his speed runner with a lightened Losi spur...Its hard to kill a Hyper 7...Even with "silly" power. 

 

Good luck with it all and I recently discovered EC5s, I was using XT90 previously, I do prefer how easy it is to insert and disconnect EC5s. Also get yourself some decent solder, not the cheap chinese lead free stuff - sure it'll do the job, but leaded stuff is just on another planet.