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Traxxas trx4 owners thread.


Gaz!

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Closed cell foams are pretty hard though, so they're not really great performing foams. 

 

Venting them is the simplest variant, someone said it on the page prior. Holepunch, two holes in the tread - if you get it proper soaked, just lift the rc and spin the wheels, you'll throw out the water. If you got a vented rim (not all of them are), just put a piece of gorilla tape over them to "seal". 

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I went and had another look at them just now and there is well was 1 air hole in them, took them apart and squished all the water out of them and have put that stix like sh@t stuff over the holes, will wait till tomorrow and put them back together, heres hoping they hold, i also couldnt resist this so ordered last week and arrived today

 

A14EDCC2-DF3B-40F4-B5A6-EE5BD171B4D7.jpeg

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9 hours ago, wolfie1 said:

I went and had another look at them just now and there is well was 1 air hole in them, took them apart and squished all the water out of them and have put that stix like sh@t stuff over the holes, will wait till tomorrow and put them back together, heres hoping they hold, i also couldnt resist this so ordered last week and arrived today

 

A14EDCC2-DF3B-40F4-B5A6-EE5BD171B4D7.jpeg

Wet stinky foams are a part of crawling 😆

 

have a link for the trailer ?

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This is the best i could do to link the trailer, i did buy the towbar hitch separately as it comes with 1 of them ball joint things you find on steering linkages, you will need to copy and paste it into a browser, its the first link KYX Racing Heavy Duty Metal Trailer for 1/10 Rc Rock Crawler Truck Traxxas TRX4 Axial SCX10 SCX10 II 90046 90047 CC01 D90 D110

 

hopefully no more stinky foams after blocking the hole. I did upgrade the steering servo to an etonix 21.8 kg but still dont think its man enough for the job which was quite surprising as i have the same servo in a savage xl and a cen gst and works fantastic in them, so have bought a cheap 40kg servo from ebay, so running at 6v will give 35kg so hopefully that will do the trick

 

I have bought a battery pack to power the lights on the trailer but was thinking i may try and run them off the traxxas pro lighting system so as to get working side, stop and indicators when its plugged into the car, anyone know where to get the plugs for the module and also would i get away with 1 common earth for all the lights running to the module?

 

Does anyone know also where to get a 1mm allen key screwdriver as its something i just cannot find anywhere, along the same sort of idea as the ones in my trailer pic?

Edited by wolfie1
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13 hours ago, m4inbrain said:

Closed cell foams are pretty hard though, so they're not really great performing foams.

Venting them is the simplest variant, someone said it on the page prior. Holepunch, two holes in the tread - if you get it proper soaked, just lift the rc and spin the wheels, you'll throw out the water. If you got a vented rim (not all of them are), just put a piece of gorilla tape over them to "seal". 

I disagree and only use closed cell and 2 stage foams, as i like the tires to bite and not flop about when v pinching or rock crawling. for trailing it doesnt matter, if your after performance its why they are sold 😉

They also dont soak up much if any water making draining them or drying easier, all will take in some water and they all will smell bad in the end. matters how much you maintain the foams also.

Edited by Redback
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13 hours ago, MrCake said:

I run Treal beadlocks which are effectively water tight or at least there is no air that escapes when you squeeze the tyre.   Sure some people will say non vented affects performance but I prefer that to stinky foams.

Till the tire snake bits on a tumble and you end up with semi vented tires without asking for em 😂

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54 minutes ago, Redback said:

I disagree and only use closed cell and 2 stage foams, as i like the tires to bite and not flop about when v pinching or rock crawling. for trailing it doesnt matter, if your after performance its why they are sold 😉

They also dont soak up much if any water making draining them or drying easier, all will take in some water and they all will smell bad in the end. matters how much you maintain the foams also.

 

For trailing you don't need any foams, you could technically just run air. 

 

For rock crawling, dual stage outperforms closed cell. Quite obviously. I'll agree that closed cell foams are less maintenance (they'll start smelling too eventually though), and more importantly, infinitely easier to fit right especially if the bead lock doesn't play ball, but in terms of performance they're worse than dual stage. Even people who make foams will agree with that. See crawlerinnovations foam guide, #4. 

 

Your personal preference is fair, if you don't like the wheel to do something and chose foams based on that - absolutely. In terms of rock crawling, closed cell is worse than dual stage (that's why dual stage exists in the first place - sidewall rigidity of closed cell inserts with conforming capabilities of soft inserts), and different than open cell. Much better sidehilling performance of course, at the cost of actual traction. Despite trying to mimic soft inserts by grooving the outside. And they're better for rigs that weigh 15-20lbs. Other than that, they're outdone by dual stage foams. 

 

In the end, whatever your preference is, is the correct tyre for you. But that doesn't make it "generally" the better tyre - like in this case. You like closed cell better, and potentially it's even better in general where you run, but dual stage foams objectively perform better on average/most situations. I personally run dual stage because i don't sidewall all day, the one time i used closed cell foams i did barely make it into our "home course" (rocky beach) and got stuck constantly. At 9lbs (reasonably average), my truck simply doesn't have enough weight to conform closed cell inserts - and if they don't conform i might as well run wooden inserts. 

 

edit: for reference, the terrain we tested open cell, closed cell and dual stage foams in, our "home course". 

 

JJfxAYP.png

Edited by m4inbrain
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3 hours ago, wolfie1 said:

Does anyone know also where to get a 1mm allen key screwdriver as its something i just cannot find anywhere, along the same sort of idea as the ones in my trailer pic?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142228618595

 

Amazon

 

https://modelhelicopters.co.uk/products/omp-1mm-hex-screwdriver-oshm1050?variant=40780591890632 (probably best option). 

 

Indeed not easy to find though, not much hardware on RCs that require 1mm hexes. 

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5 hours ago, m4inbrain said:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142228618595

 

Amazon

 

https://modelhelicopters.co.uk/products/omp-1mm-hex-screwdriver-oshm1050?variant=40780591890632 (probably best option). 

 

Indeed not easy to find though, not much hardware on RCs that require 1mm hexes. 

Thank you very much, i have the right angle ones but ideally wanted the screwdriver type, so i have bought the 1 from the helicopter shop 🙂

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So today i reassembled my wheels without air holes in them and they are now epic, still as squishy as before but actually have some air in them now and of course no water to leak in.

Fitted some door handles and hinges which look brilliant but went to go fit rear light guards and they def wont fit with the midget nuts and bolts supplied as the lighting kit is behind where they mount, but im thinking i can possibly drill holes through the shell and into the lighting kit and just use midget screws like the ones for attaching the door handles, unless someone else has a better idea?

Edited by wolfie1
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34 minutes ago, wolfie1 said:

So today i reassembled my wheels without air holes in them and they are now epic, still as squishy as before but actually have some air in them now and of course no water to leak in.

Fitted some door handles and hinges which look brilliant but went to go fit rear light guards and they def wont fit with the midget nuts and bolts supplied as the lighting kit is behind where they mount, but im thinking i can possibly drill holes through the shell and into the lighting kit and just use midget screws like the ones for attaching the door handles, unless someone else has a better idea?

Great that you got the wheels sorted 👍I’ve been thinking of getting the front and rear light covers didn’t think of the problem you’ve come across 🤔though I haven’t even painted my shell yet 🤣 got tamiya ps-18 backed with black I hope it comes out how it looks in my head 😆

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9 hours ago, wolfie1 said:

This is the best i could do to link the trailer, i did buy the towbar hitch separately as it comes with 1 of them ball joint things you find on steering linkages, you will need to copy and paste it into a browser, its the first link KYX Racing Heavy Duty Metal Trailer for 1/10 Rc Rock Crawler Truck Traxxas TRX4 Axial SCX10 SCX10 II 90046 90047 CC01 D90 D110

 

hopefully no more stinky foams after blocking the hole. I did upgrade the steering servo to an etonix 21.8 kg but still dont think its man enough for the job which was quite surprising as i have the same servo in a savage xl and a cen gst and works fantastic in them, so have bought a cheap 40kg servo from ebay, so running at 6v will give 35kg so hopefully that will do the trick

 

I have bought a battery pack to power the lights on the trailer but was thinking i may try and run them off the traxxas pro lighting system so as to get working side, stop and indicators when its plugged into the car, anyone know where to get the plugs for the module and also would i get away with 1 common earth for all the lights running to the module?

 

Does anyone know also where to get a 1mm allen key screwdriver as its something i just cannot find anywhere, along the same sort of idea as the ones in my trailer pic?

If you don’t mind me asking how’s the quality ? all the reviews say it’s really not good 

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1 hour ago, RC4WD fan said:

If you don’t mind me asking how’s the quality ? all the reviews say it’s really not good 

You know something it’s actually not bad at all, there is 3 leafs on the springs but i only assembled it with 2 as i think it would have been too stiff, the wheels and tyres arent the best but its 12mm hexes so if you really wanted im sure something else could be fitted instead. Its not like your going to do jumps with it on, im happy with it, i am waiting on a battery box coming as to power up the lights on it as thats the only thing you dont get

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Traxxas light kit, i bought the bluetooth thing for the back of the control so i can turn them on and off and adjust the brightness with my phone, the weird bit is you cant scroll through hazard and indicators with the app, that has to be done by pressing the button on the module

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36 minutes ago, wolfie1 said:

Traxxas light kit, i bought the bluetooth thing for the back of the control so i can turn them on and off and adjust the brightness with my phone, the weird bit is you cant scroll through hazard and indicators with the app, that has to be done by pressing the button on the module

A lot more features than what I want I’m looking at this https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/injora-front-rear-led-light-kit-for-traxxas-trx-4-defender-1348134 a lot cheaper 

Edited by RC4WD fan
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the lights may change mode when you hold full lock for 5 or 10 seconds and i spent more time trying to get back to the mode i wanted than driving the truck :insane:

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53 minutes ago, RC4WD fan said:

Nice are you using the traxxas light kit or some of the other brand ones?

Wow thats a cool thing too, never even knew that existed and considerably cheaper than the traxxas 1 as once you buy the lights then the pro bit its like 4 times the price, thats a bargain if it does all the same stuff.

I also want to get the temp and battery voltage doofer too as it looks cool, dont need the speed bitty though as lets be honest they aint built for speed

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8 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

the lights may change mode when you hold full lock for 5 or 10 seconds and i spent more time trying to get back to the mode i wanted than driving the truck :insane:

I had a light kit like that once it went in the bin 🤣

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9 minutes ago, wolfie1 said:

Wow thats a cool thing too, never even knew that existed and considerably cheaper than the traxxas 1 as once you buy the lights then the pro bit its like 4 times the price, thats a bargain if it does all the same stuff.

I also want to get the temp and battery voltage doofer too as it looks cool, dont need the speed bitty though as lets be honest they aint built for speed

Might be worth a shot or I might make a set up my self 👍 

 

you say the TRX 4 isn’t made for speed but they do shift with a bit of tinkering can get about 30mph I want to go past a speed camera with an RC going faster than 30 🤣

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4 minutes ago, RC4WD fan said:

I had a light kit like that once it went in the bin 🤣

My 1 is in the spares box lol so bit the bullet and got the Traxxas kit 

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5 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

My 1 is in the spares box lol so bit the bullet and got the Traxxas kit 

A lot of money though for a light kit the idea of making a set myself is more and more tempting 

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