m4inbrain

bump, added pictures and adjusted price.

Feel free to list all those "much better equipped" models then. Only the ones with decent and timely part support, warranty and customer support though. Thanks in advance.

Yeah that was the CNHL one. The main issue is that if you're even slightly too high, you can't close the battery tray anymore (unlike in rigs like Kratons etc where you have a strap as opposed to a bar that clicks in), so better be save than sorry. I think that's the correct adaptor, yeah. That Sunpadow or whatever, nah. I personally wouldn't humour that pack (especially not from Amazon) - but i didn't recommend it, so @Stormbringer has to vouch here. 😄 I wouldn't know, i'm german. Nobody is happy there. Just efficient. 😁

Traxxas itself doesn't cover warranty in the UK anyway, it's the shop you buy from. Never had an issue and did have a re-soldered ESC to send back. I don't know if it's policy - but you could message the shop you're ordering from, and ask them if they could resolder the TRX connector on the Maxx or whatever straight away (modelsport does offer soldering services). That should be covered just fine, though i wouldn't promise anything.

They do exist, but it's generally not a great practice since you don't know who soldered it. Or how well he soldered it. That said, old TRX connectors are compatible to the newer ones, so any TRX to whatever adaptor will work.

I can tell you that it'll fit, never heard of those packs before. I'd probably go for this one: edit: i lied, doesn't fit, gimme a minute. Battery tray size is 186x48x43. The GensAce one will fit, had a CNHL pack linked here before. This one: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/1361665 and buy an adaptor separately. I'm picky when it comes to LiPos, the ones you mentioned might be perfectly fine but with magic angry pixies, i always err on the safe side of things. Reason for discarding the CNHL pack i had linked prior is that the Maxx uses a "bar" to clamp the battery in, so the max height is an actual max height, or the tray doesn't close. The GensAce pack will fit. Nah, since Traxxas stuff basically arrives within 48 hours, just order a pair when you break one (one to replace, one for spares). No point in gathering spares if nothing's broken yet, imho. And you hit the nail on the head: Traxxas are (sometimes vastly) overpriced, but there's things that one simply can't argue with - be it ease of access to basically everything on the rig if it needs replacing, or the quality of the plastic used. I'm at the age now where i get angry at the price of Traxxas rigs (because they're overpriced) - but still buy them because, again age-related, i just can't be arsed to faff around anymore. I basically pay for convenience, that's how i see it. Bit arse, but in the end.. i'm german, my wife gets scared when i get angry at things lol, so i try to keep the german cursing in check. 😁

Nah. Just sell the 5t roller to me for a tenner, i'll run it 12s. 😁

Nothing ever broke on both my Maxx's or my X-Maxx (at least mechanically, i did have the VXL8s nope out) - that doesn't mean they don't break, i know they do. 😉 I'm not arguing against the MJX, it does seem a good value proposition - my argument is more in the rut of "you're always one bad landing away from a parts order". And when that day arrives (and it will arrive, with any RC), personally i'd much rather have a Traxxas (disregarding my well known opinions on the brand itself) than a chinese rig (be it MJX or WLToys "long number here"). For known faults, the Maxx does have a habit of breaking the rear driveshafts on a bad landing. They're <£15, available basically everywhere, and are changed in less than 5 minutes. In regards to comparison, the MJX compares much better to the MT10 and Sketer imho. That all said, i don't have a stake with Traxxas or any other manufacturer - in the end, go for what you think suits you best. edit: as an aside, i would rate chinese jobs much higher if there was a reliable and lasting(!) local parts support for them, but there generally isn't. It's always "order from ali", with all the joys that stem from there - be it unreliability, waiting times, crooked dealers etc - and within a year, maybe two, spares simply disappear. Same crap different name with Hobbyking rigs.

I mean that CNHL is the most likely manufacturer to hit the numbers they advertise, as opposed to some others. I've seen capacities as low as 3600mah on a 5000mah pack - LiPos are notorious for being mislabelled. That's why buying from a reputable source is important. 👍 If "motor mount screws backing out" is the only issue with a Maxx (one i haven't even encountered, and i had two of them) - then i'd argue you're pretty well set. Comparing it to a model noticeably smaller isn't quite fair either, even ignoring the fact that you're mistaken about the "nothing breaks" part. To be very clear, every RC breaks. Anyone suggesting otherwise is a fanboy or liar. I usually agree with Lone-wolf a lot, but on this occasion, the statement made is simply wrong.

GensAce, CNHL and Zeee are all good. Go for what suits you best on those. Note, CNHL packs are sometimes bigger/heavier than their capacity would suggest, so make sure you double check that. Let me rephrase that - GensAce and Zeee (and many others) are lighter/smaller than their capacity would suggest. I personally nowadays only run CNHL, i have yet to have something go wrong - and i run up to 9500mah 4s (x2) packs.

It's good to go out of the box. 👍

Calpis, gorilla mounts and wire sleeving. I approve.

Or take her with you. We got plenty of dads at the track, ages from 2 to teen. The kids, i mean.

Here's the thing. It's basically impossible to keep plastic/rubber from wearing down fast on tarmac. So regardless of what you're running, tyres will need replacing eventually. If it needs absolute cheapness, you could run a RWD and switch tyres from rear to front, but it'd still need replacing eventually. Drift cars by nature are low to the ground. You can't really jack them up without compromising how they drive and look - but at the price range you're looking at, who really cares if the bottom scratches? I currently have two cars active for drifting, a £1500 SD 2.0 that will never even touch tarmac, let alone drive it - and a sub-£200 LP86, if that scratches, i couldn't care less. That all said. I don't know how old/mobile you are, but you really want to do is to check where the next actual drift track is. There's quite a few around now, there's bound to be one reasonably near you. I have yet to meet an unfriendly drifter, they all are helpful - just pop to a localish track, you'll be able to see what drifting is about and are guaranteed to get some stick time from a loaner rig. That would be my #1 suggestion.

1. no. 2. you always get what you pay for, you also didn't clarify what you're actually looking for (rwd/4wd etc) 3. no.

I don't have the rig in front of me (mate got all of them, brings them to the drift track every 2 weeks), but wouldn't it be easier to put the fan vertical next to the motor? And yeah, that is a chunky fan mount, but no worries, 3d design comes relatively quick. Though i don't think that particular design would work (even it it wasn't too chunky). For a rule of thumb, you don't want unsupported floating bits, and if you absolutely can't get around it, you want to print it in the other direction (vertical lines, not horizontal). Which is also bad, but slightly less so. Generally, though i guess mileage may vary - the easiest option is to directly mount to the motor. Take two plates, cut the diameter of the motor into it, two notches each side and then just zip tie it to the motor, if that makes sense. That's how i do it for stuff that absolutely needs a fan, usually simple and quick.

Cut a small airgap into the Typhon shell (front/rear). At least that's what i'd do, when i held the thing i thought that there's not much airflow in there (nor space, but that's a different matter lol), but might've just missed it. Either way, good luck.

Takes 2 minutes to get used to it, and by that i mean "how slow you go while still being manoeuvrable". Once at like 5mph, it basically drives like any other RC but with a huge turning circle. Took me less than a minute to drive it around, the gyro (and stabilisation) make this not comparable to bikes of old. Even my wife was able to immediately pick it up. When it falls over, it generally takes just a bit of throttle to stand it back up again, on tarmac. Most of the times. It will, obviously, fall over below a certain speed. It takes around, from memory, 30ish seconds for the gyro to spool up (and longer to wind down). It is a battery hog (and has phantom drain, so make 100% sure you unplug the battery - don't ask me how i know). The battery compartment is a bit of a faff. It's bigger (and heavier) than expected. It is confusing at a stand still (you turn left on the transmitter, and the wheel turns right - but it's the correct orientation, took me a hot minute to wrap my head around that one). Hm.. That's what immediately springs to mind when thinking back.

I have played with Typhon and Mojave Grom brushless on Friday, running 2s. Are you actually sure you want it to run 3s, since on a track with traction they already become almost undriveable? Generally you use nominal voltage to get the RPM, since that's an average. You can't really get exact numbers, since RPM at full charge is different than RPM at low charge. I you want "max RPM" numbers you need to consider voltage sag etc pp, it's just not really feasible, ergo you go for nominal voltage. Is there any particular reason for chasing high rpm rather than lower RPM but higher gearing? What's the actual plan?

I wouldn't call that scoring, that's craters. Now, few questions. I don't know much about this particular engine (nothing, actually) - but engines in general, and had scored pistons before. If someone gave me this piston without knowing what it came from, i think my first question would be "have you checked crank bearings". The piston isn't flopping around in the hole, the damage is very directional, so i'd be going through the engine looking for potential locations where you could induce play in that direction. It's good practice to check bearings anyway, but that's where i'd start. Now here's where the "dunno anything about this engine" comes in, i wouldn't know if the theory applies to it. I don't know if it has conrod bearings (if so, check), where or how the crankshaft mounts (check) etc. Just some random thoughts about this, since i am quite intrigued by that calamity.

Had one for 2 weeks. From my personal experience, the novelty wore off really fast. Yeah, it's cool hearing that gyro spin up (for quite a long time, i want to add), once or twice. It's also cool seeing the thing go down the road and wheelie, once or twice. And then.. well... yeah. That's about it. They are pretty flimsy, so while you can jump them, you're almost guaranteed to break it where the fork connects to the rest of the bike (i can't remember which reviewer it was, i wanna say RC Driver, broke it on the first drive there as well). Completely unusable in sand (i live near a beach), needs a large empty space with maybe a tiny jump, either concrete or dirt as long as there are no ruts etc. Dunno.. Wasn't for me. Twice or so was fun in the parking lot doddling around, but then got old quickly. That said, i'm not into bikes, so maybe someone else gets more out of it.

Plus warranty. 👍

Never owned a Hyper ST, but my personal starting point would probably around 60-70wt.

We really need to stop spreading the myth that thicker shock oil helps "stiffening" a car. It doesn't. It slows down the compression/extension, but pressure required to compress the spring is exactly the same. It slows down the compression by increasing pressure inside the shock - all you do is increase the potential to blow the top off the shock, or bend the shock shaft because the shock doesn't compress fast enough. As a rule of thumb. Oil is used to tune how fast your car goes from full compression to full extension and vice versa. Not how much force full compression takes. The only way to increase spring pressure "or stiffness" is by using stiffer springs. There's no other way. Everything else is wrong. Now, you actually do want somewhat soft springs and reasonably light oil on a basher. Within reason. Otherwise they won't last (generally by either breaking the piston inside the shock, or bending the shock shaft). There's a simple test. Adjust the ride height to where you want it (as was pointed out by wombat - directly under the shock cap is a collar that you can wind down, adjust that down to increase ride height to where you like it), take the rig and drop it from 3 feet. That tells you exactly what you need. If the chassis hits the floor, you need stiffer springs. If it wobbles or waves, you go up a little in shock oil weight - it should drop on the wheels, compress the shock all the way without slapping on the floor, then extend straight up without any oscillation to "resting position". If it goes up all the way to full extension and then settles back down in the "droop" from the weight, your oil is too light. That's your general tuning starting point. That's how most RTRs behave at least, and i found it relatively easy to tune from there.

Not quite certain what you want to know? Cut out, paint, double sided tape. 👍