Stavros Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 On 22/06/2022 at 21:22, Redback said: Yes it can, put a low kv sensored brushless system in it, and or do a transmission swap. You can check out my Outlaw Crawler thread for the info. Not ideal as it will just melt, the gearing for the truck is to high for crawling on any brushed motor, i used cordless drill motors and they still melted. Hi Redback Relatively new to this group and been reading 10-15 pages a day to try and get up to speed on all the improvements. You mention in this thread about the anti-twist hacks - do you know if these are listed anywhere on the forum? Local RC shop has suggested adjusting the rear shocks, relocating the fixing points to the frame. I’m just looking a for a little better cornering rather than flipping! Thanks for pointing me to any key users/threads to look for as I’m sure it’s all in here somewhere in these 130+ pages! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stavros Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 11 minutes ago, Stavros said: Hi Redback Relatively new to this group and been reading 10-15 pages a day to try and get up to speed on all the improvements. You mention in this thread about the anti-twist hacks - do you know if these are listed anywhere on the forum? Local RC shop has suggested adjusting the rear shocks, relocating the fixing points to the frame. I’m just looking a for a little better cornering rather than flipping! Thanks for pointing me to any key users/threads to look for as I’m sure it’s all in here somewhere in these 130+ pages! Just to follow up - thanks for setting up the thread @johninderby on the Outlaw - have been (slowly) working my way through the 130 pages of ideas. Hoping to find more details on the key upgrades/changes to make to get the handling a little better. Mine is a brushless stock Outlaw, only thing I’ve done is upgraded the main bottom plate to a metal one and just purchased a replacement bumper kit. Seems to be a really weak design spot where the bumper connected to the chassis plate. First time the screw holes on the bumper broke, second time the chassis ones broke. I’m looking at getting the Zorro bumper to fit instead and on the look out for a metal skid plate to fix over the bumper, see if that helps at all. Other than that, the main issues I have are the natural tendency for the car to lift, especially front right corner on acceleration. I’m very happy to see that there are loads of parts readily available and my local model shop is amazing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 13 hours ago, Stavros said: Hi Redback Relatively new to this group and been reading 10-15 pages a day to try and get up to speed on all the improvements. You mention in this thread about the anti-twist hacks - do you know if these are listed anywhere on the forum? Local RC shop has suggested adjusting the rear shocks, relocating the fixing points to the frame. I’m just looking a for a little better cornering rather than flipping! Thanks for pointing me to any key users/threads to look for as I’m sure it’s all in here somewhere in these 130+ pages! Heya mate, so you can get anti sway bars for the yeti from ebay that fit, the arms are decent but the bars are cheese and bend and snap right away. I think i mention it in the outlaw crawler thread, i havent been there for a while. Use the stock bar with upgraded arms. You can stiffen up the spring on one side of the rear if you like to send your outlaw, double up on the rear shocks with softer oil or use thicker shock fluid in the rear. To help with roll overs you can use stiffer 1/8th buggy springs and 2 stage foams and better tires (with beadlocks if possible) in the front to help the side wall rolling causing it to roll also. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSG RACING Posted September 4, 2023 Share Posted September 4, 2023 On 24/12/2016 at 08:45, johninderby said: Yes will be interested to see how it runs on 3s. John i run mine on 3s with a 50 c rating and it runs about 40-45 mph sweet as not done a proper speed run yet need to get a gps to do that my mate has a police speed gun though (don't ask no questions don't get told any lies) i'm looking to finish upgrading my chassis and put a 4s set up in it with a 16t spur gear (why not upgrade it fully it was 80% alloy carbon upgraded when i got it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RSanchez Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Hi all, wondering if you can help. I have a brushed Outlaw. After getting fed up with killing the motor, I’ve fitted the HobbyWing Max10 and 3652 motor combo with Codder 2S lipo battery. I got a 23T metal pinion and River Hobby metal spur gear. The gears are slipping. I have fitted an aluminium 23T motor mount, chassis, trailing arms, both attachment points for the trailing arms, and rear link set. Upgraded the shocks and shock oils. I’ve got an antisway fitted to the front. I have slightly stripped one of the lower gearbox threads (rear, motor side) which might be allowing the rear bearing to lift. The other side is fine. Im thinking about trying a VRX 23T pinion and a new lower transmission case. Anything else I should try? Its been fun upgrading it, but I’m starting to think just buying a better truck outright would have been cheaper…! Still, it’s grown with my son, so still happy to put more money into it at the moment at least to get it working. There an aluminium transmission housing for the Outlaw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 My wife has decided she is not using her Brushless outlaw so when i can be bothered i will list it for sale along with a second part complete for spares 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Thats a shame as she seemed to enjoy going trailing with you 😞 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Time has moved on, she prefers the Coyote crawler these days 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Ahh cool glad she still goes trailing with you 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 On 03/01/2024 at 03:42, RSanchez said: Hi all, wondering if you can help. I have a brushed Outlaw. After getting fed up with killing the motor, I’ve fitted the HobbyWing Max10 and 3652 motor combo with Codder 2S lipo battery. I got a 23T metal pinion and River Hobby metal spur gear. The gears are slipping. I have fitted an aluminium 23T motor mount, chassis, trailing arms, both attachment points for the trailing arms, and rear link set. Upgraded the shocks and shock oils. I’ve got an antisway fitted to the front. I have slightly stripped one of the lower gearbox threads (rear, motor side) which might be allowing the rear bearing to lift. The other side is fine. Im thinking about trying a VRX 23T pinion and a new lower transmission case. Anything else I should try? Its been fun upgrading it, but I’m starting to think just buying a better truck outright would have been cheaper…! Still, it’s grown with my son, so still happy to put more money into it at the moment at least to get it working. There an aluminium transmission housing for the Outlaw? plz take a photo of the transmission with the top off. things to check, - the alloy motor mount goes 2 ways, ensure its sitting and meshing right. - the bearings can melt around the spur gear, this means a new upper and lower housing, fairly cheap. - the spur gear has a small pin that locks in in place, this needs a shim on the bearing side to keep it tight, alt glue the pin in. - there is no slipper clutch on the outlaw transmission, check the grub screws on the transmission outputs, they may have backed out a bit. - check the diff inputs also have the gub screws tight, outlaw is fixed 4x4 diveline with only open diffs. - best mod ive found is lock the back diff, makes a big diffrence. - I ran the same esc and motor, it didnt work well in the outlaw as its just not got the grunt to get it moving, if the car is juddering this is called cogging, nothing is slipping.... its when the motor doesnt have the low rpm torque to complete a motor turn. - as for fixes for this i replaced the entire transmission as its just didnt work for my young lad motors kept melting... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bananaman Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 On 21/01/2023 at 10:07, Redback said: I use 1/8th buggy springs on the front, same ftx shocks, stops it being so soft, also sway bar is a must. Wouldnt bother with the metal axle, your putting forces into more parts that break. Metal chassis is a must. Also the rear sway bar is pretty cheese and doesnt actually do much, The ebays ones are better but the sway bar metal is cheese, so keep the bar and upgrade the rear arms to metal ones. Any recommendations on those springs? I went and bought a pair, based on some YouTube video I’d watched and they were way too small ( good job they were pennies). You can see how low it’s sitting and the damage here: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 That actually looks to be sitting right Also the scrapes to the front bumper are kind of normal as well You dont want them sitting like a crane all high you want the arms kind of level when you drop the car level from about a foot high Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bananaman Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 1 hour ago, Stormbringer said: That actually looks to be sitting right Also the scrapes to the front bumper are kind of normal as well You dont want them sitting like a crane all high you want the arms kind of level when you drop the car level from about a foot high Agree that I don’t want it to be bolt upright like a demented meerkat, but it seems to have difficulty rebounding when I push it down. I stuck the Carnage sway bar on this evening, for a bit of extra stability, but the long screws provided don’t seem long enough to screw right through both sections . I might be doing something wrong there though!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdalowsky Posted Monday at 11:59 Share Posted Monday at 11:59 Hi all, Im looking for a little diagnostic help. My son has the brushless model. The other day it cut out whilst off roading at speed. Now the controller will not connect to the car. The battery is charged, there are new batteries in the controller and that usual 'beep' on turning it on is not there. Literally nothing happens. The solid red light and green light on the controller are on, and the red light next to the on switch on the car is on. The little 'fan' is going like the clappers, but the motor isnt turning at all, and the steering doesnt work. There is literally no reaction to the controller at all. anyone had this before? My lad thinks he needs an ESC - but Im wondering if it might be something else? I only replaced the middle axle last week and put a new gear wheel in that the motor connects to to turn the wheels. Any tips would be very welcome. I have repaired this car so many times, and have no issue taking the thing to bits but when it comes to the electronics I'm a bit stumped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted Monday at 12:02 Share Posted Monday at 12:02 make sure the throttle trim is centred cos if it isnt the esc see's it as throttle input and wont arm itself ohh try rebinding transmitter to receiver as well 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdalowsky Posted Monday at 12:08 Share Posted Monday at 12:08 4 minutes ago, Stormbringer said: make sure the throttle trim is centred cos if it isnt the esc see's it as throttle input and wont arm itself ohh try rebinding transmitter to receiver as well Cheers, yeah its centred ok, theres just absolutely no connection to the car. In terms or rebinding, is this a case of just holding the 'bind' button on the controller? Ive tried all sorts like that but nothing is happening. I thought it might be the motor being burnt out (with it happening during heavy use) however given the steering doesnt work either I think its more a connection/signal issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted Monday at 12:16 Share Posted Monday at 12:16 Theres usally a button or a wee plug you plug into receiver to bind best checking the manual see how its done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted Monday at 12:18 Share Posted Monday at 12:18 1 minute ago, Stormbringer said: Theres usally a button or a wee plug you plug into receiver to bind best checking the manual see how its done In the box there’s a bind plug with a little dibber on it - you have to plug it into the receiver and press the weeny button - there are instructions online if you’ve lost your manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdalowsky Posted Monday at 12:43 Share Posted Monday at 12:43 23 minutes ago, walkbythesea said: In the box there’s a bind plug with a little dibber on it - you have to plug it into the receiver and press the weeny button - there are instructions online if you’ve lost your manual. Thanks, I had no idea there was such a thing. I'll take a look tonight. Oddly I do not think the car has a bind socket on the receiver.....but again I'll check tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted Monday at 12:46 Share Posted Monday at 12:46 2 minutes ago, pdalowsky said: Thanks, I had no idea there was such a thing. I'll take a look tonight. Oddly I do not think the car has a bind socket on the receiver.....but again I'll check tonight. If it’s the stock Rx I think it says ch3/bind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted Monday at 12:51 Share Posted Monday at 12:51 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdalowsky Posted Monday at 13:05 Share Posted Monday at 13:05 13 minutes ago, walkbythesea said: Yeah I saw this in the manual but our outlaw's receiver looks nothing like this one. It was only bought about 16 months ago so may have been updated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdalowsky Posted Monday at 13:08 Share Posted Monday at 13:08 Ours looks like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted Monday at 13:13 Share Posted Monday at 13:13 the esc power switch is taped on top of the receiver so look at the ports in front of receiver 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted Monday at 13:59 Share Posted Monday at 13:59 50 minutes ago, pdalowsky said: Ours looks like this It should be in the box that switch is taped to, you’ll need a hex head to open it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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