FTX Outlaw Crawler

[Redback]

Hello, First time poster here just wanting to share, I had been looking for ages on how to possibly swap out the transmission / gearbox on the Outlaw to reduce clogging and its desire to eat motors or spur gears amongst other issues.

For context the owner of the truck is 6 so the other goal is to make it a bit more usable and controllable for slower hill bashing and crawling, whilst still using the brushless motor but without clogging issues or having to go to a sensored system.

Main issues from my time owning this truck.
- The stock brushless outlaw electronics are splashproof not water proof as advertised, the ECU doesn't have the same peak output as the same proper water hardened one Etronix offer that's much better and has higher peak output.
- The gearbox flexes underload throwing spur gears from the pin, eating spur gears, the brass alloy FTX pinions are terrible also, always use a hardened steel pinion even on plastic spur gears to prevent wear.
- Loves to roll over and snap baseplates / arm links, the plastic chassis has a major flaw in the strength of the corners that hold the lower rear trailing arms, these can snap from minor roll overs.-
- Doesn't accept other 2.2 wheels with ease due to rubbing on the front turnbuckles.
- The gearing choice isn't great, 17t pinion with 550 17t or 21t brushed motors and 40amp ecu the motor will last for about an 2 hours before melting, The gearing is that bad the stock 4 pole 2700kv brushless motor clogs and staggers when moving from standstill.

Before going full bonkers with a new transmission, we tried a HW 540 1800kv Axe system, this worked as expected but got hot very fast (within minutes), I didn't want to risk cooking the motor so promptly removed it.

I think i found a solution to some of these issues, if you don't mind doing some chopping and drilling, here are the results.

 

- Remove high up sprung weight. Dump the spare wheel.
- Bluetak/Gum the diffs to make them semi locked.

- 2.2 fast trax wheels , on hobao hyper 10 wheel nuts to give the clearance for the steering hubs to prevent rubbing.
- Ftx Carnage front swaybar drops straight in.
- Move battery tray and mount onto the middle brace (if you dont swap out the stock gearbox)
- HW Ezrun Combo works great has much better anti clog and torque on stock gearbox.
- Steering servo died after 3 years, reasonable considering it had a swim twice, 15kg server is good but ideally also needs a stiffer servo saver spring to make use of the extra oomph.

- Gearbox / Transmission swap was done with a Gmade G1 Crawler transmission, This works well because the outputs are the same size and in a similar position to the stock gearbox.
- 12t pinion that comes with the G1 gearbox is fine but lacks top end speed so is now fitted with a 18t hardened pinion.
- The front drive prop shaft had to be replaced as it was to long with the drive cups, A cut down FTX mauler shaft fit perfect.
- The rear drive output has a smaller grub hole so to save drilling the output and possibly compromising its strength, 2 grubnuts fit each side to lock it in place and has not come loose.

- You will need a steel rear prop shaft to prevent torque twisting and snapping it.
- Mounting the gearbox can only be done to the alloy chassis and requires 4x m3 holes, this was easy to do as the gearbox can sit flush up with the rear of the chassis making alignment less of a concern.
- You need to cut a small corner from the top base plate brace, to allow it to be fitted.
- Finally with the new gearbox being further back 550+ can motors can fit with ease, with over 75mm of motor length now supported.
- Doesn't need a sensored motor due to the gear reduction, still can hit 15 - 20 mph on 2s / 3s.
- Runtime was 5 hours exactly on 2s 5000mha lipo.

Has anyone else done something similar to their outlaw, id love to see what others have done to fix similar issues, share the knowledge and fun.
 

Edited December 10, 2020 by Redback

[Snfu]

You can get an aluminium gear box.Dropping the battery tray onto the spur gear cover lowers the centre of gravity a hell of a lot & makes the truck handle a lot better. 

[tomr]

2 hours ago, Snfu said:

You can get an aluminium gear box.Dropping the battery tray onto the spur gear cover lowers the centre of gravity a hell of a lot & makes the truck handle a lot better. 

Do you know where you can buy the ally gearbox?

cheers

[Redback]

On 11/08/2020 at 16:43, Snfu said:

You can get an aluminium gear box.Dropping the battery tray onto the spur gear cover lowers the centre of gravity a hell of a lot & makes the truck handle a lot better. 

I've never seen these and that wouldnt resolve the issue with the poor gearing for the size of the truck, I mounted the battery on the plastic upper brace and yes it helps greatly. However as noted I was unable to keep the battery forward due to the height of the new gearbox and the motor now being in a higher position.

Edited August 17, 2020 by Redback

[Redback]

Finally got round to getting a little bit of footage.
This is using a diffrent motor / ecu combo now, and is running on 2s but can go up to 4s, on 3s it will speed match a stock brushless outlaw running 2s. So not bad for a crawler.
Hobbywing max 10 stc 120amp, with a Hobbywing 3656 4700kv on 7000mha 2s lipo. 2-3 hours runtime.
 

Edited October 25, 2020 by Redback

[Bullet Proof Outlaw?!]

Thank’s so much for your help getting our Outlaw running on Sunday! 
 

Here is the link to the steel Spur Gear

[US$9.26]VRX Racing 10995 Upgraded Steel Main Gear 62T for 1/10 RH1043 RH1045 RC Car Parts RC Parts from Toys Hobbies and Robot on banggood https://banggood.app.link/ldR1sy3iUab

 

Dan

[Redback]

G'day Dan, thank you very much! more stuff for the spares box haha, hope you got the servo sorted! Stay safe and might see you there again!

[Bullet Proof Outlaw?!]

All running well (for now)!  Apart from a broken prop shaft - but that’s normal right

 

I’m sure the kids will drag me back!

[Redback]

I picked up a brushed outlaw and ran it brushless on some big wheels for a bit to remember how they ran stock, it was happy on the flats and once going but the stalling on the hills got to me it was time for surgery, I had the intention of trying a Revision 2 of the crawler mod a bit more suited to my needs rather than a basher for the lad.



Im aiming for the control of a crawler with the ultra truck frame and the speed of a rock racer basically an axial yeti?

Partslist.
#FTX8757 - FTX Mauler/ Outback Fury Front and Rear Universal Main Driveshaft
#GM51201 - GMade Transmission Housing Set
#GM51204 - GMade Counter Gear Set
3 x #TRX5114 - Ball Bearings - Rubber Shield (5x8x2.5mm) (2)
#TRX1985 - Traxxas PTFE-coated washers 5x8x0.5mm (20) (use with ball bearings)
#GM51207 - GMade Counter Gear Shaft Set
#GM51208 - GMade Transmission Screw Bag For R1
Recommended but optional.
#FTX8377 - FTX Outlaw Steel Rear Central CVD Complete (try threadlocking and shrinkwrap shaft to save loosing pins.)

 

Same Gmade R1 transmission, this time mounted with motor poking out the back, theres no wrong way to mount these things.

Cut mauler shaft to fit.
Cut top plate to a tight fit.
Depending on your choice, grind the grub nut pins to fit into the smaller outputs, or use 2 either side.

 

Rear mounting the motor, so theres room for clearance for outrunner motors and plates to protect it later, not ideal for long motors or cables due to maybe them getting hungup on rocks, would need some form of belly pan to protect it.

 

Testing the Revolver motor, need to lock the diffs to take advantage of it, to wet to play outside without getting motor mucky, but performed well on the plank challenge.
 

 

Final layout, with twin battery support, having the ecu at the back seems to serve well, as the short heat sensor cable limited positioning.
Need to finalize mounting and cables but was keen to get it out for a test.

 

Outdoor testing with hobbywing max10 stc 3300kv 3652sl running on 4s, 2x 7000mha shes heavy, so going easy with 9t pinion to start before going to 18t.

Need to move up some pinion teeth for more top end speed, tweak the breaking, dragbreak, lock the diffs, stronger steering to take advantage of the extra torque etc but for now it runs nice i think.

 

Thanks for reading.

 

 

 

 

Edited November 19, 2020 by Redback
details

[Badcrumble]

Thanks for the parts list and the photos of revision 2 - it really gives a clear picture of what goes where. My brushed Outlaw is totally stock but I need a plan for when it breaks! I like the slow / fast ability it has though I doubt I'll get your pace - my fleet is still NiMH powered and I'll probably stay brushed. 

[Redback]

Thank you, most welcome, I will add more photos and details as the project evolves!
Next on the todo is strengthen the alloy chassis as the lads one has started to bend were the trailing arms mounts attach.

 

@Badcrumble the next time i take the motor out, i'll put in a brushed motor, 15t 550, or 21t 550 on 18t pinion, with a hobbywing 1080 crawler esc and run some nimh packs then move to 2s lipo and 3s lipo for comparison footage / thoughts.
I have done some limited testing with this mod on brushed. Here's what i found.
The motors don't melt so last much longer due to less strain on the motor, they may get warm but should be to hot to hold.
Your runtime will be less because the gear ratios and top end speed is limited due to voltage & nimh output.
It will have lots of modulation but lack top end speed, probably loosing about 40%.
It wont bog down and might snap or twist the plastic drive train, it will round out the stock wheel hexes etc, so be prepared to upgrade these things at some point.

 

Next up i'll work out the ratios and list them along with the expected speeds with some videos on different motor setups and tidy up the parts list / first post, as it really doesnt explain whats going on.

Edited November 20, 2020 by Redback

[Badcrumble]

That's brilliant @Redback, I'm on page 55 of the Outlaw Owners thread so I'm playing catch up.  The more I read, the more I think I need to move to LiPo...

Looking forward to seeing your developments! 

[Badcrumble]

Here's my 2021 Outlaw  crawler mod project so far. A metal chassis plus front and rear suspension holders, servo mounts and  carbon front shock tower. 

 

 

Gearbox is an Injora  SCX10ii clone. It feel quite nice and smooth and has been greased.

 

 

I have a Holmes Hobby CrawlMaster Sport 540 13T to try out and will use an existing / get another Hobbywing 1080.  I need to look at a pinion. I'll be Nimh initially but I'm edging towards LiPo.

 

EDIT: Hmm, photos don't work..🙁 Fixed ! 😃

Edited December 10, 2020 by Badcrumble

[Redback]

5 hours ago, Badcrumble said:

Here's my 2021 Outlaw  crawler mod project so far. A metal chassis plus front and rear suspension holders, servo mounts and  carbon front shock tower. 

 

 

Gearbox is an Injora  SCX10ii clone. It feel quite nice and smooth and has been greased.

 

 

I have a Holmes Hobby CrawlMaster Sport 540 13T to try out and will use an existing / get another Hobbywing 1080.  I need to look at a pinion. I'll be Nimh initially but I'm edging towards LiPo.

 

EDIT: Hmm, photos don't work..🙁 Fixed ! 😃

 

Awesome can't wait to see how that transmission goes, what pitch is that pinion 32dp? how big of a pinion can you run in that transmission?

I've moved both trucks to 18t and they work nicely.

One issue with rear mounting motor is the extra angle on the front drive shaft causes rubbing on the universal joints, would recommend mounting R1 style with the motor facing forward to keep the front drive line more central.

Looking forward to seeing your build!

 

[Badcrumble]

Thanks @Redback, this is a mid-long term build plan but I couldn’t resist getting parts together while I had discounts available.

 

Thanks for the advice on gearbox placement, shuffling it around on the desk I had decided on forward facing, you’ve convinced me it is the right way to go.

 

I really want to run the Outlaw stock until it breaks (might not be that long, given their rep) and then transfer to Crawler spec.

 

That’s a 13T pinion with a 56T spur which is standard for this AX10 style transmission found on the SCX10ii. The Wraith has a 12T pinion as standard. Not quite sure where I need to go from here but it will be fun researching! (Edit: I think it is 32dp)

In theory the gearbox can be held by four screws but I would like to put a plate / mount under the spur to hold it secure - especially as there is a screw hole under there. So a little light fab work to do.

But first, I need to finish my trail truck (only over a year in the making)!

Edited December 11, 2020 by Badcrumble

[Redback]

Been a while but still active doing testing on the R2 platform, working on its a bit more screwing around than on, R1 as the motor can be removed without removing the transmission, with R2 being flipped the transmission needs to be removed to remove the motor.
I'm thinking of making a plate to support the transmission flipped 90` so the motor sits a bit higher out of the water and muck and the drive line remains inline.
 

After running exclusively Hobbywing, I've been giving Castle a try and like what I'm driving, their programming is superior to hobbywings offering in every way unless you shell out for a xerun esc.

Anyway back to castle, even sensorless they are smooth as butter, when programmed right! Sensored a 5000kv motor has found its home here, can modulate like a crawler and bash like a brushless outlaw.
You can have your cake and eat it, the cake is not a lie

Tons of modulation on 2s and 3s shown in the clips below. Sounds like a very angy bee on 3s full pelt. Is it as fast as a stock outlaw? you tell me.

 

 

Sick of a broken outlaw shell?
Trace out your broken outlaw body onto a sheet of 5£ aluminum and craft your own body that will never crack and style to your liking/skills.

 

 

Test out your waterproofing propper!

 

 

Bit of a fun experiment R1 vs R2 sorry about the music had to cover talking.

 

Some average run times, mostly trailing / crawling so walking 3-4 hours with stops and driving reasonably 5 - 15mph not screaming around flat out before lipo cuttoff.

 

Blue Crawled Outlaw R1
Motor: Hobbywing 3665 4200kv 18t pinion.
ESC: Hobbywing max 10

Battery: 2s 7000mha lipo
Runtime Avg: 2-3 hours

Silver Crawled Outlaw R2
Motor: Castle 5000kv sensored 18t pinion.
ESC: Castle Mamba X
Battery: 3s 5000mha lipo
Runtime Avg: 2-3 hours

Are these good runtimes? What do you get on your Outlaws?
Thank you for reading, happy trailing!

Edited January 31, 2021 by Redback

[Badcrumble]

Thanks for the update @Redback, looks like a lot of fun with the new  motor. 

I'm still drawing together parts, I've boxed myself in by staying brushed with a Holmes Hobbies Crawlmaster 550 8T motor and using Nimh.

Don't want to burn it out on the first run so likely starting  with a 10T pinion.

 

 

 

[Eclipsed4ever]

Looks like you've made some great progress with your Outlaw @Redback . It's been good reading through your thread after where you were end of last year. My Outlaw kept losing a wheel then, I ended up with a smoking motor and as the weather got worse it ended up in a box over winter. Got it back out this week and bolted the wheel on. Took it out for a spin but I think the motor was indeed cooked. I fitted a Hobbyking® X-Car 120A Brushless Car ESC and Surpass Hobby Rocket V3 540 21.5T but as I'm still on the standard gearing it didn't last too long.

 

It's interesting to read through the mods you've done and it looks to be working well. I find myself toying with the idea of fitting the same setup and using my old brushless 3421kV motor, but would that kV be high enough to go bashing with the extra reduction. I'd like to avoid buying more motors etc. if possible.

 

 Have you got a single source for the various bits on the parts list? I've found them all in different places I think but it'd be nice to get them all together.

 

"Partslist.
#FTX8757 - FTX Mauler/ Outback Fury Front and Rear Universal Main Driveshaft
#GM51201 - GMade Transmission Housing Set
#GM51204 - GMade Counter Gear Set
3 x #TRX5114 - Ball Bearings - Rubber Shield (5x8x2.5mm) (2)
#TRX1985 - Traxxas PTFE-coated washers 5x8x0.5mm (20) (use with ball bearings)
#GM51207 - GMade Counter Gear Shaft Set
#GM51208 - GMade Transmission Screw Bag For R1
Recommended but optional.
#FTX8377 - FTX Outlaw Steel Rear Central CVD Complete (try threadlocking and shrinkwrap shaft to save loosing pins.)"

 

What reduction does that box give you? Am I right in thinking it's similar to the Mauler box?

[Redback]

  

23 minutes ago, Eclipsed4ever said:

Looks like you've made some great progress with your Outlaw @Redback . It's been good reading through your thread after where you were end of last year. My Outlaw kept losing a wheel then, I ended up with a smoking motor and as the weather got worse it ended up in a box over winter. Got it back out this week and bolted the wheel on. Took it out for a spin but I think the motor was indeed cooked. I fitted a Hobbyking® X-Car 120A Brushless Car ESC and Surpass Hobby Rocket V3 540 21.5T but as I'm still on the standard gearing it didn't last too long.

 

It's interesting to read through the mods you've done and it looks to be working well. I find myself toying with the idea of fitting the same setup and using my old brushless 3421kV motor, but would that kV be high enough to go bashing with the extra reduction. I'd like to avoid buying more motors etc. if possible.

 

 Have you got a single source for the various bits on the parts list? I've found them all in different places I think but it'd be nice to get them all together.

 

"Partslist.
#FTX8757 - FTX Mauler/ Outback Fury Front and Rear Universal Main Driveshaft
#GM51201 - GMade Transmission Housing Set
#GM51204 - GMade Counter Gear Set
3 x #TRX5114 - Ball Bearings - Rubber Shield (5x8x2.5mm) (2)
#TRX1985 - Traxxas PTFE-coated washers 5x8x0.5mm (20) (use with ball bearings)
#GM51207 - GMade Counter Gear Shaft Set
#GM51208 - GMade Transmission Screw Bag For R1
Recommended but optional.
#FTX8377 - FTX Outlaw Steel Rear Central CVD Complete (try threadlocking and shrinkwrap shaft to save loosing pins.)"

 

What reduction does that box give you? Am I right in thinking it's similar to the Mauler box?

 

Gday, @Eclipsed4ever sorry to hear about your outlaw woes, they really are a problem child.

So for general trailing i think 3200kv was ok but for bashing, any form of speed a higher kv motor is needed.

After just coming from a short test of the stock transmission again, these are much slower and have less torque range when your mid throttle.
As the gearing is so low the motor really has to scream this isnt made for speed bashing, more akin to the driving displayed in the videos.

Also please note the 5.9' tires gear the truck up quite a bit, but i snap wheel hex pins on every outing. Still fighting the axles for wheels that fit right. Got some progress to post when i get time.

The transmission has isnt ideal for speed or bashing hard imo due to the way the system is mounted you have a big motor hanging out of a transmission so all the forces are on the motor plate when you land a jump.
Jumping the outlaw is pretty risky anyway as things like to snap. The g1 transmission setup has held up well to high rpm brushless power, recently checked and no wear on the gears.

Getting parts was a challenge, i used a couple of shops to source the parts, i was once able to buy a full transmission set (removes the need for most of the gmade part), but still had to source the out of stock parts from another shop.

I would go for these transmissions if your looking at putting in some power, however other ones might be better suited to speed due to the limits on pinion size.

I've yet to experiment with any other transmission setups but im thinking a buggy style spur gear on drive shaft setup would be the way to go for speed bashing, always thinking of ways to improve the build for a revision 3 or speedrun / bash project.

I don't know about the mauler gearbox ratio's and i'm having a hard time finding the output ratio for this.
I think with the size of the mauler stock spur gear this transmission is faster, but with mods you can put a tiny spur on the mauler transmission just not sure how it would handle the speed.

I still need to update this thread with more clear details, ive been distracted by the go fast project after the sucsess of these go slow ones

Thanks for your support and intrest in the build, i look forward to seeing yours!

😀

Edited March 1, 2021 by Redback

[Badcrumble]

@Redback what are your pinion and spur counts for your current transmission? 

I'm new to this and maths isn't my strong point. I did some digging around FDR, RPMs on other forum and came across this - 

(motor kv * battery voltage) / (spur gear / pinion gear) = RPM

Assuming this is correct the standard brushless Outlaw is the following - 

Motor

Battery

(spur

pinion

Final drive

KV

*

voltage

/

gear

/

gear)

=

RPM

Ratio

Outlaw Brushless

stock gearing

2S / 17T pinion

(2950

*

7.4

)/

(62

/

17)

=

21830

/

3.65

=

5985

3.65:1

 

Unfortunately, I haven't got the stats for the brushed Outlaw (brushed motor kv values aren't that common) but it would be interesting to compare.

I stumbled around for ages looking at the ratios of my Axial (copy) transmission and a couple of Holmes Hobbies brushed motors. I gave up, thinking I'd ruin the motor if i tired to get an output anywhere near the brushless (plus, I'm currently only running Nimh).

So I started looking at brushless and ended up with a Holmes Hobbies Revolver v2 at 25000kv.

On paper it looks like this

Motor

Battery

(spur

pinion

Final drive

KV

*

voltage

/

gear

/

gear)

RPM

Ratio

Revolver 2500

Axial transmission

Nimh / 17T pinion

(2500

*

7.2)

/

(56

/

17)

=

18,000

/

3.3

=

5454.5

3.3:1

Revolver 2500

Axial transmission

2S / 17T pinion

(2500

8.4)

/

(56

/

17)

=

21,000

/

3.3

=

5833

3.3:1

 

I know this doesn't take into account the axle gears or calculate rollout but I'd be interested to get your thoughts / opinions.

As for getting this set-up rolling, I need to pick up my new motor from the office when lockdown eases and actually assemble the gearbox on my new alloy chassis before transferring the rest of the Outlaw over. Oh, and purchase a suitable ESC. So this will remain theoretical for a few more months. 

 

Edited March 2, 2021 by Badcrumble
mis-type

[Eclipsed4ever]

Yup still at it! 

 

Had a look through the car today to see what actually needs doing on it. There's a few broken pieces and worn drive parts so I've ordered all that too refresh it a bit. Also ordered a steel CVD and Ali chassis. The front has bust off of mine and I'll have more confidence in modifying the aluminium one. 

 

Today I fitted my old 3214 Absima Motor to t with the 120A ESC. It wasn't actually too bad to be fair. Still some cogging but considerably more go than with the Absima Esc. Main issue now is heat though. That Esc seems to be cooking everything so perhaps its got too much go for the motors I have. That being said I can't find any 1/10 motors with a current rating that high. 

 

Another strange thing is there's now a massive delay on throttle /reverse. Is that because the esc is expecting a sensored motor but its not? I think it can operate in both modes and there's no setting for it but it makes it very tough to drive at all accurately. 

 

Here's a little vid of this evening. This is typical of most of the sort of driving I really do so I think a reduction box is going to be the way. 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 2, 2021 by Eclipsed4ever

[walkbythesea]

So glad to have found this thread 👍

 

Been working on my own Outlaw crawler and have actually come to a lot of the same conclusions you have...   but keep burning motors running overgeared whilst my impatience to play outruns my gearbox delivery from China.....

 

[Redback]

1 hour ago, Eclipsed4ever said:

Yup still at it! 

 

Had a look through the car today to see what actually needs doing on it. There's a few broken pieces and worn drive parts so I've ordered all that too refresh it a bit. Also ordered a steel CVD and Ali chassis. The front has bust off of mine and I'll have more confidence in modifying the aluminium one. 

 

Today I fitted my old 3214 Absima Motor to t with the 120A ESC. It wasn't actually too bad to be fair. Still some cogging but considerably more go than with the Absima Esc. Main issue now is heat though. That Esc seems to be cooking everything so perhaps its got too much go for the motors I have. That being said I can't find any 1/10 motors with a current rating that high. 

 

Another strange thing is there's now a massive delay on throttle /reverse. Is that because the esc is expecting a sensored motor but its not? I think it can operate in both modes and there's no setting for it but it makes it very tough to drive at all accurately. 

 

Here's a little vid of this evening. This is typical of most of the sort of driving I really do so I think a reduction box is going to be the way. 

 

 

 

 

Yes this is what i would call trail driving / crawling, i think the gearbox will transform the car and will perform well here.

Not sure what the delay could be, is the motor timing set high or low, is the motor endpoints / neutral ranges set right? For ccw or cw rotation?

A sensored system will make the truck drive much better and supply far stronger drag break that will be needed for this type of driving, otherwise the 120a esc should have enough power to deliver.
The motor should also be good for 3s so might be ok, can only test and if it doesnt work look at a faster motor.

 

47 minutes ago, walkbythesea said:

So glad to have found this thread 👍

 

Been working on my own Outlaw crawler and have actually come to a lot of the same conclusions you have...   but keep burning motors running overgeared whilst my impatience to play outruns my gearbox delivery from China.....

 

 

Happy to hear it might be useful for you, im also quite impatient so got all these parts from uk shops, sourcing them can be tricky.
Cant assure you how good any other transmission will handel the power, noticed on youtube people have done a crawler mod like this with the mauler gearbox.
I was going to try this one but didnt like the high gear dp so opted for the wider 32dp mesh on the g1 to limit any chance of failure.
Along with the sealed transmission vs the mauler thats got an open transmission so dirt can get it, unless its got a motor pinion / spur cover to keep out the muk.

Looking forward to seeing how both of your trucks workout and if you find the mods workable or have better solutions 😃
 

[Eclipsed4ever]

I've just bit the bullet and bought one of these: https://www.fusionhobbies.com/product/gm51200-gmade-r1-transmission-set

 

I'm hoping it has everything in it I need. Also bought some grease with it. So one quick question for you... do I need the Mauler shaft FTX8757 or can I just cut down the outlaw rear shaft? Struggling to find the mauler one. Also, is the Mauler one a metal item?

 

I think everything is on it's way to hopefully getting a much more user friendly Outlaw. Sick of taking it out and getting frustrated with it...

[Redback]

3 hours ago, Eclipsed4ever said:

I've just bit the bullet and bought one of these: https://www.fusionhobbies.com/product/gm51200-gmade-r1-transmission-set

 

I'm hoping it has everything in it I need. Also bought some grease with it. So one quick question for you... do I need the Mauler shaft FTX8757 or can I just cut down the outlaw rear shaft? Struggling to find the mauler one. Also, is the Mauler one a metal item?

 

I think everything is on it's way to hopefully getting a much more user friendly Outlaw. Sick of taking it out and getting frustrated with it...

Im guess its out of stock as tried from them in the past their site isnt up to date, the gmade boxes come through cml uk  distribution and i got the last one last year sadly.