Eclipsed4ever

Great to see your still working on the Outlaw... mines been chucked in a box for months. Last time I took it out the control was very weird. Really intermittent and barely driveable so it got put away... until yesterday! Thought I'd finally get on and install the Dumbo X-6. After some head scratching when I accidentally set the throttle range to barely anything and the car had a mind of its own, I found a really useful youtube video on setting up the Dumbo and after feeling like a Dumbo, all was well. The car was driving lovely again and the range was how I imagined it should be. Easily covers the area we've got to drive in now. Tested up to 100m with no problem. Had a drive round for a while, lost the prop bolts a couple of times (although I've just been reading back through this thread - I forgot I was double nutting them). Had a minor accident and crashed and broke a front CVD but I thought no bother, I'll just do a bit of drifting instead of bashing... Carried on until I crashed again and snapped the front lower arm 😞 New aluminium arms and rear arm mounts now on order, along with some spare shafts! Going to retry the rear steer as well now I have 6ch to play with. @Redback One thing I saw you mentioned was changing your steering servo around - here's what I did to gain some space. It does hang out a bit but it's much easier to work on. Have you looked at 3D printing any parts? OneDrive 27 Apr 2023.zip

Great to see things are still evolving! I'm pleased to report that my Outlaw is behaving reasonably well lately. Put a good few hours of driving in with very few issues. The serrated wheelnuts have stopped the wheels falling off and i haven't lost any further pins from the driveline. I even seemed to of fixed my transmitter... the aerial was insulation taped up when I got it, I took all that off and heatshrinked it instead and now I have the range I think I should 🙂 The new Bangood transmitter arrived since then but I've not bothered swapping it in yet. I haven't got any replacement shafts for my rear steer yet so not much point now the original Tx is working. Only issue I've experienced lately is I've broken 2 front CVDs. Both have snapped the shaft next to the joint, 1 inner, 1 outer. I've got 1 spare left to repair it and I'll be back to looking for parts. Other then that, loving it! Almost got enough spare electronics to build another car now. A higher kV might be the way with this one first though. Some more speed would be good.

Is this the one? https://www.banggood.com/DumboRC-X6-2_4G-6CH-Transmitter-with-X6FG-Receiver-for-JJRC-Q65-MN-90-Rc-Car-Boat-Tank-Model-Parts-p-1454329.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=229 It does have some excellent reviews! Does it come with the receiver or do you need to order that separate? https://www.banggood.com/DUMBORC-X6FG-2_4G-6CH-Receiver-with-Gyro-for-RC-X6-Transmitter-Remote-Controller-p-1520829.html?rmmds=detail-topright-recommendation&cur_warehouse=CN

The SST looks really good, fair play. I thought it was pretty poor... may have to look into replacing the TX & RX going forward. For just messing about in the garden it's just about good enough - for now.

Yeah it's been well worth spending the time on it. The new wheel nuts arrived today so I'm going to put the best set of wheels I have left on (hexes are worn on most of them) and see if they stop them persistently falling off. Some new driveshaft pins have now arrived so I'll fit them to the front shaft where I still have my cut down bolt fitted! Yes it's just an M3 bolt with 2 normal nuts fitted. Survived a couple of hours so far without issue. The other pins in the shaft are all covered with heat shink. Superglued in the little cross pin as well which tried to escape once. It's like they just don't want to be in there! What's the SST? So I have another question... my radio distance seems (to me) to be awful. Much further than maybe 10m and the car starts to lose signal and comes to a halt. What sort of range should I expect? I have a 'Flysky FS-GT2' transmitter and the receiver which came with the truck - can't remember what it is. The transmitter has a broken plastic outside to the aerial but the actual antenna seems to be undamaged.

Ah yes... I couldn't find them either. Easy when you know how... although I got impatient earlier and drilled the output shaft out to 3mm. I've just put a bolt through it for today with a double nut on and actually it's performed very well. It's a bit crude but no sign of coming undone. My main concern is whether there's enough meat left on the shaft to take the strain but so far so good. Had probably an hour in the mud earlier and except for the wheels falling off, it went very well. I've now glued up the servo saver and my god isn't the steering better! Even with the lack luster original servo on there, it already performs so much better. I do mean to try it with the new 17kg servo on and see what happens but I've not got round to swapping them yet. Here's the lad driving. Not quite got the finesse on the controls yet but he's getting the hang of it now that it's so much easier (and more enjoyable) to drive.

Yeah I already had the difflock in the rear when I added the rear steer. Maybe they won't be up to the stress. I'll try another set to see if it was just a bad one or not. The other side took some abuse when I carried on in 3WD so hopefully it was just a bad shaft. Looking where it's broke it's split the end off of the shaft where the joint is formed. If the joints prove to be just not up to the task then I'll just leave the rear steer off. As good as it is reliability is more important. The pin which goes through the shaft on the male end is what's missing. I think it's a 4mm thread, but goes down to a straight 3mm pin which goes through the gearbox output shaft. Have you tried a bolt going all the way through with a nyloc on the other side? I think there's clearance there for it.

To be fair... that was just a happy accident 😛 Had another go today and the car still performed well. I have run into a couple of issues though. As @Redback said would happen, I managed to loose one of the grub screws from the rear CVD where there heat shrink slid off of it. I'm not sure if you know where I might be able to get a replacement from? I don't think it's a straight grub screw is it? It had a tapered down pin.

Videos look great @walkbythesea! Looks a pretty hardcore area you've got for it. I'm using 2 stock outlaw ones as I think the centres are pulled out the other 3. Also got 2 aluminium beadlock wheels for the rear. Need to look at getting some more wheels soon though, the hexes on the last 2 outlaw wheels are getting worse. Tempted to just glue the hex into the wheel, but I've already glued them to the shafts. I think I was out there for probably 30-40 minutes without any change in performance so I would think the battery has plenty in it yet. It started raining pretty heavy then so I come back in. It's the Absima 3241kV motor that came with the truck originally. I think I'm actually going to put the Absima ESC which came with it back in as well as there's something strange going on with the control with the Hobbywing one that's in there. The original Absima ESC always worked really well with the motor except the cogging,

Yeah there's no clip on mine. I don't think it came with one. I'd say that's why my steering has always been particularly rubbish. Think I'll try gluing it. It won't load! The broken CV is a bit of art imitating life... I have the same problem on my full size from time to time. Rear CVs do take a lot of abuse compared to fronts. If I was bouncing on it I wouldn't of been surprised. As I had only just got going and had barely done anything though this one might of been a poor part to begin with. The other survived for the 10 minutes following in 3WD. Will see if I can blag another and try again.

I bought the car second hand so I think I'm on a different Tx. It's still only 2 channel though. Since I bought the car the front steering has been pants, even with the servo in the correct position. I've just been looking at a new servo saver and I think the top might of snapped off of mine - there's no C-clip to hold the spring on mine, it is just kept on by the top chassis plate. I think this won't be helping. As for the servo, if I step it out a few mm I can get a pretty straight push with it round the way that it is. It's just it will sit outside the chassis plate a fraction. It's still on the original servo as you say. I might swap my new rear steer one in to the front to see how it performs then. Ordered! Thank you! I'll get in touch with them. I must of got the duffer rear steer kit I think - 2 missing bearings and a shaft made of chocolate. Hey ho! Will get it sorted.

Well the last 2 bearings arrived this morning so I finished it all off and went for a burn during a break in the weather. What a difference! The truck is lovely to drive at low speed now. Really responsive and you can easily tackle much more difficult objects. Unfortunately, within about 30 seconds of getting going I smashed one of the rear CVs. End of the shaft snapped straight off. So I've removed the rear steer at the moment and put the straight axle back on. Had a good half hour of stress free driving (bar wheels falling off). Really pleased with the modifications. Top speed is obviously a lot less but it's not bad. Might struggle to outrun the children now but it's fine what what I do most of the time. It still has enough speed to hit obstacles with as well. Annoyingly, I did take a few videos but when I got back in and checked my GoPro, they're all corrupted 😡 So there's a couple of things to try and tackle. The most annoying is the wheel nuts coming undone and falling off. I've not superglued all the hexes and pins so I'm not losing those, but wheels falling off every 5 minutes is infuriating. There just isn't enough thread to get a standard M4 nyloc nut on with a washer behind it. Any recommendations? Second problem is the rear CVs. I presume a Kanyon shaft will fit this. Is there an upgraded unit at all? I don't like how easy that one snapped as I wasn't even giving it any stick really. I also need to do something with the front servo. It works where it is, but the front steering has already been pretty rubbish. I'm not sure if that's how much slack there is in the 'servo saver' thing? Are these normally tight? Is it really required?

Happy to help... 😁😁😁 The progress is looking good! You've got a much straighter front drive than mine. I've had to bodge my front shaft at the moment as the Mauler shaft didn't come with a 4mm grub screw which was marginally annoying. It's got a cut down cap head in it for now!

Don't the steering hubs have 2 bearings in each? I've fitted two in 1 hub in mine and it looks good. I thought it could be that I should reuse my rear bearings but they're 1mm bigger OD. The ones from the original outlaw front hubs fit though. The rears are 11 (OD) x 5 (ID) x 4 (W) and the fronts are 10 (OD) x 5 (ID) x 4 (W).

It's alright, I've found a way round it. First I opened up my new servo with the idea of flipping the wires but it wouldn't come apart. I've now managed to flip over the front steer servo in the car which has effectively changed its direction. Works lovely now. I'm just waiting on 2 new bearings (as the rear Steer kit only came with 2 for the hubs but I need 4) and she should be up and running. Had a quick drive on the carpet and it seems to all be working lovely. Hoping the bearings arrive tomorrow! Wheelspinmodels were kind enough to post me some FOC.

Good afternoon all. I need some advice... my second servo for the rear steer arrived today so I've fitted it, but with a Y-cable the damn thing goes the wrong way. Is there an easy way to reverse it without buying a little reverser thing (mainly because I'm impatient).

Oh sorry peeps, dunno what that didn't work. Try this link: https://1drv.ms/x/s!Asl--fu1lzrIgqgJuPwmA_OuwvGuBw?e=Q6ofl7

I've attached my excel sheet if that helps at all. Just fill in the yellow cells to play around. It's got @Redback R1 & R2 on there for comparison to 😉 RC Car Gearing.xlsx

I've bought the GMade R1 Transmission. Overall ratio is 40:1 with a 12T pinion. I've gone for an 18T pinion the same as @Redback. Surely that box has a greater ratio that 10:1?

I'm making progress.... just waiting on the bits I thought I had ordered the first time to arrive to finish it off... Transmission in, rear steer on, difflocks fitted, metal rear CVD fitted...

Well aren't you a PITA! That's awesome! Thankfully you were just in time though so that kit and an extra servo went on to the wheelspin models order! I'm now eagerly awaiting all the parts for the new transmission and a 4WS kit! Can't wait to try and sort this thing out and have some fun with it.

It won't let me load your videos.... although I'm guessing its some rear wheel steer action? 🧐 @Redback I've ordered the full steer rear shaft so that should sort that out. It's not actually been terrible on the plastic one, I think I've smashed 2 or 3? But I'm expecting the extra torque to smash the plastic ones hence the change. I'll see what a plastic rear looks like as a front shaft. If it will go in there then great, if not I'll see if I can find a Mauler one. I would expect that rear shafts will be under a lot more force than fronts as the front is generally going light under power so will only have a limited amount of grip. Obviously if the front is dug in somewhere or reversing up hill this might not be the case. Either way, will see if I can blow it to bits! Yes I see your message about fusion... I best give them a ring tomorrow! Thank you! They were about the only place listing in stock so could very well be a mistake on their part. Best get back to looking for parts!

I've just bit the bullet and bought one of these: https://www.fusionhobbies.com/product/gm51200-gmade-r1-transmission-set I'm hoping it has everything in it I need. Also bought some grease with it. So one quick question for you... do I need the Mauler shaft FTX8757 or can I just cut down the outlaw rear shaft? Struggling to find the mauler one. Also, is the Mauler one a metal item? I think everything is on it's way to hopefully getting a much more user friendly Outlaw. Sick of taking it out and getting frustrated with it...

Yup still at it! Had a look through the car today to see what actually needs doing on it. There's a few broken pieces and worn drive parts so I've ordered all that too refresh it a bit. Also ordered a steel CVD and Ali chassis. The front has bust off of mine and I'll have more confidence in modifying the aluminium one. Today I fitted my old 3214 Absima Motor to t with the 120A ESC. It wasn't actually too bad to be fair. Still some cogging but considerably more go than with the Absima Esc. Main issue now is heat though. That Esc seems to be cooking everything so perhaps its got too much go for the motors I have. That being said I can't find any 1/10 motors with a current rating that high. Another strange thing is there's now a massive delay on throttle /reverse. Is that because the esc is expecting a sensored motor but its not? I think it can operate in both modes and there's no setting for it but it makes it very tough to drive at all accurately. Here's a little vid of this evening. This is typical of most of the sort of driving I really do so I think a reduction box is going to be the way.

Looks like you've made some great progress with your Outlaw @Redback . It's been good reading through your thread after where you were end of last year. My Outlaw kept losing a wheel then, I ended up with a smoking motor and as the weather got worse it ended up in a box over winter. Got it back out this week and bolted the wheel on. Took it out for a spin but I think the motor was indeed cooked. I fitted a Hobbyking® X-Car 120A Brushless Car ESC and Surpass Hobby Rocket V3 540 21.5T but as I'm still on the standard gearing it didn't last too long. It's interesting to read through the mods you've done and it looks to be working well. I find myself toying with the idea of fitting the same setup and using my old brushless 3421kV motor, but would that kV be high enough to go bashing with the extra reduction. I'd like to avoid buying more motors etc. if possible. Have you got a single source for the various bits on the parts list? I've found them all in different places I think but it'd be nice to get them all together. "Partslist.#FTX8757 - FTX Mauler/ Outback Fury Front and Rear Universal Main Driveshaft#GM51201 - GMade Transmission Housing Set#GM51204 - GMade Counter Gear Set3 x #TRX5114 - Ball Bearings - Rubber Shield (5x8x2.5mm) (2)#TRX1985 - Traxxas PTFE-coated washers 5x8x0.5mm (20) (use with ball bearings)#GM51207 - GMade Counter Gear Shaft Set#GM51208 - GMade Transmission Screw Bag For R1Recommended but optional.#FTX8377 - FTX Outlaw Steel Rear Central CVD Complete (try threadlocking and shrinkwrap shaft to save loosing pins.)" What reduction does that box give you? Am I right in thinking it's similar to the Mauler box?