Ollykamakazi Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 brushless esc's sometimes need to know what the limits are .......Thanks for the reply and your valued advice. I’ll be having a go at all the recommendations above from you guys. Really appreciate it. I phoned the people who sold it and they said to try and re bind it too. This is all bonkers. Wanted fun with my kid. Ending up a micro mechanic and electrician! I also bout a Carisma M10DBFirst run with that one and it’s broken the diff. Suspension so soft on the back it just bottoms out! They call them ready to run. More like ready to break. It’s costly being a novice that’s apparent. Oh well soon we will get some fun out of them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ollykamakazi Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 SORTEDResult. Got home and re bound it and all good in the hood. Thanks guys. Next fix the Carisma. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ollykamakazi Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 Hi all. Had the outlaw out today. Each time a battery is changed the car needed rebinding. Now won’t bind at all. Anyone had this? Any solutions or tricks to try before spending dosh?Cheers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 Hi all. Had the outlaw out today. Each time a battery is changed the car needed rebinding. Now won’t bind at all. Anyone had this? Any solutions or tricks to try before spending dosh?Cheers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProIf its the oem speed controller try chucking ftx or cml an email and advise of the problem, they may ask for when and where you bought it. They sent me a replacement brushed motor when i did it.Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just rolling Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 On 05/11/2017 at 20:49, Ollykamakazi said: Hi all. Had the outlaw out today. Each time a battery is changed the car needed rebinding. Now won’t bind at all. Anyone had this? Any solutions or tricks to try before spending dosh? Cheers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro should only need binded if using a new receiver etc, some thing wrong there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 Make sure nothing is plugged into the bind socket of the receiver. The bind plug should only be plugged in when binding then removed which should only need doing once. Joh; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ollykamakazi Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 So I have sorted the binding problem. Took both buggies out this weekend thanks to the guys at MS sorting my charisma buggy out for me. Had great fun with my lad. Very muddy. He did hit a deep puddle with the Outlaw at the end which seemed to kill it off. After drying it out it only seems to have 2 wheel rear drive but no drive to front wheels . would this be due to the water or maybe it happened when running and we didn't know? Can anyone give hints as to what may be causing this or what to check first? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted November 12, 2017 Share Posted November 12, 2017 Check the grub screws on each of the centre drive shaft cups are secure. As if these loosen then they'll just rotate on the shaft. Both are under the top plate with 6 screws on, one at the gearbox end and one at the front diff end.If its not them then it'll possibly be the front diff with missing teeth on the crown gearSent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted November 15, 2017 Share Posted November 15, 2017 Hi Guys please look here would be interested in your thoughts https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/226412-rpm-parts-for-ftx-rcs/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted November 16, 2017 Share Posted November 16, 2017 Noticed that Ms have started to do the 10BL120 sensored at £38!https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-10bl120-sensored/rc-car-products/425021So ordered one [emoji16]Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bix Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 23 hours ago, bieomax said: Noticed that Ms have started to do the 10BL120 sensored at £38!https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-10bl120-sensored/rc-car-products/425021 So ordered one Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk So I’m finally getting round to sorting the Outlaw out tonight, a few bits to replace and hopefully get it running again. The brushless electrics were horrendous for cogging and the ESC completely lost the plot so I’m sticking the brushed setup back in for now. This is only a temporary measure for now and at that price I’ll likely pick one of these ESC’s up as they a well reviewed. Theres been a few motor recommendations in this thread but to save trawling through the many posts, just wondered what would be a reasonable price sensored brushless to match this ESC? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 'lo all, I'll be getting my hands on one of these, at Christmas! Well, to be honest, I'm buying the bro-in-law one and he's buying me one... Any glaring issues that need sorted straight from the box (brushed version)? I did hear that dirt can get in to the gearbox? If you have any light, please shed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Personally I've not come across any dirt within the gearbox?! If you open it for whatever reason, just make sure it's totally seated properly and screwed down later, as I'm sure you would. Mine was only brushed for a few weeks and running 3S, with a different ESC. Stock motors have been renowned for burning out, again, mine didn't, but who knows when it would've... Otherwise, it's a decent RC out the box. Aswell as going brushless very soon in its life, I also changed some of the plastic parts to the alloy options FTX have, to eliminate/prevent any slop which would develop (hubs and so on). From what I've done to it I'm chuffed to bits with it, excellent fun offroad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 Thanks, T2boats, sounds good! My friend, Pedro (has a youtube channel called Tuga RC), has had issues with dirt ingress, into the gearbox. However, you may well be right about it not being seated quite right. Our plan is to tun 2s brushed for a bit and then go brushless, when we have a little bit of money to burn. We were thinking around 3800 to 4000kv, 2s. Would that be about right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t2boats Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 Yeah sounds like fun, I'm running 3800kv on 3S with 120A esc, and 23t pinion. To put it simply - it shifts... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isle of Wight Basher Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 A couple of video's from yesterday. Great fun. I'm now in the process of fitting a different gearbox with slipper and adjustable gearing, a basic design flaw in my opinion. I'm just about to start a new topic about it 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulmtb Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 (edited) Well John after reading your thread with interest over past couple of weeks ive bought two FTX Outlaw's for my boys for Xmas. Ive sent you a PM ref some advise from the start as i plan on getting the alloy upgrades and being a tinkerer will change motors etc likely as you have also. Im new to the RC world but understand engines and running gear from having actual track cars, and indeed racing them. I have had RC cars years ago and a friend and i ran a fueled car for a while before we blew it up by tinkering too much lol One question i have...ive bought two of these FTX Outlaws ...and they will be racing them against each other in the back field, am i going to have any radio conflict issues. Also any tips...as they are young lads they will be using them in wet areas, etc should i be tinkering before they start using them. Other than buying spare batteries and a speed charger...they are totally stock and in the box waiting for santa to deliver them Cheers in advance, this forum seems to be a proper old skool bunch of users...which i like! P.S i may have bought them for myself also ;--) Edited December 4, 2017 by paulmtb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, paulmtb said: One question i have...ive bought two of these FTX Outlaws ...and they will be racing them against each other in the back field, am i going to have any radio conflict issues. Also any tips...as they are young lads they will be using them in wet areas, etc should i be tinkering before they start using them. Other than buying spare batteries and a speed charger...they are totally stock and in the box waiting for santa to deliver them Welcome! No interference issues! New 2.4ghz radio systems, that come standard in all RCs these days, have unique radio signals. Once a transmitter is bound to a receiver, then no other receiver will pick up that signal. Run as many as you want! Wet areas should be fine, if you're just talking about splashing around. If you think "drowned" is a possibility, then you may want to put marine grease in the gears and on the bearings. EDIT: I have a question for the seasoned Outlaw owners: I'm planning on having mine set-up with somewhat of a balance between fast basher and trail truck, and I'm thinking of running thick grease in the rear diff, to add more "drive" when off-roading. Don't want it to simply spin-up the one free wheel, if the other gets bogged a bit. Should I run thicker in the front, also? The diffs seem just a little too lacking in resistance to work when things get muddy, but I may be wrong. Anyone played around with weightier diff oil/grease? Thanks. Edited December 5, 2017 by Praet0r87 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulmtb Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 (edited) Thanks for your reply. Is there a guide anywhere ref where and how to apply grease etc? is there parts that should be regularly relubed? And if so what do you rexommnend as “tool basics” to have in the tool box. Edited December 5, 2017 by paulmtb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 I'm not sure. The instructions should have an exploded view diagram of all the parts. That'll show you you where all the bearings and gears are located. If not, there will be an exploded view diagram somewhere on the FTX site. Regularly, no. Unless you are frequently trecking wheels-deep in mud and filthy water, in which case, you'd want to clean out and relube the bearings. Basics... always a wheel-nut spanner. Always! Maybe also a phillips screw driver. That's about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bieomax Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 Hex driver is a must. Think i ended up with a fastrax one with 4 or 5 ends on the handlehttp://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=632_606&products_id=20229Not had any problems with the above over this last year. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProBlitz Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 im not having much time to rc but i was looking into aliexpress and you can get some really cheap upgrades for the outlaw like 16€ for aluminium chassi and 20€ for carbon and pretty much all the other upgrades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welsh40 Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Hi all I'm fairly new to this but I have bought my son a brushed outlaw for Xmas and he is looking to make it faster. I have a lipo 2s on order but also looking at brushless motors. He is only 10 and his money is limited and I have seen the goolrc 540 combos that seem good value (in his price range) even if not the fastest or best quality. Any thoughts / recommendations and which Kv and ESC amp combo would be ideal so it is controllable and won't rip the gears or anything to shreds after 5 minutes. Any help is appreciated. P. S. I have also bought my other sons a vantage a day maverick strada dt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 (edited) The GoolRC 3650. 3500kv and 60 amp ESC combo works just fine in the Outlaw. Have tested it and pleased with the results using the stock 17t pinion. Good idea though to get the alloy motor mounting plate. Absolutely required is the steel rear driveshaft as the stock plastic one breaks easily even with the brushed motor. John Edited January 7, 2018 by johninderby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Welsh40 Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 That's great thank you and will certainly look to get the parts you mentioned before the motor. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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