Isle of Wight Basher

The standard brushless set up is more than enough for this car, https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-photon-2-1w-system-with-13-0r-2950kv-motor-45a-esc/rc-car-products/383631 However I'd go these https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-wp-10bl60-bl-esc/rc-car-products/382833 and https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-photon-2-1-sensorless-1-10-13r-2950kv-motor/rc-car-products/385714 As for upgrades some will say you need the metal prop-shaft https://www.modelsport.co.uk/0/rc-car-products/406604 but I ran mine fine with that motor for many runs without issue, I did fit one in the end and found it showed significant signs of wear in a short time. I'm not saying the plastic one won't break but I'd suggest either get spare plastic ones or a metal one from another manufacturer.

Is the slipper clutch ok ? if it's set to loose or the pads are worn/contaminated that could explain it

Wow, love the detailing and the papers in the front are class, have you any close ups of the cab ?

It depends on the diff and what you want, as above if you want to tune the diff action and the diff is a sealed type then different grades of silicon oil will change the diff action. However if the diff does not seal, then use grease. For an open diff the grease you use on your motorcycles will be fine (in any diff), and different viscosity greases will give you a stiffer diff.

I have indeed and love it, the Black/Chrome look is a favorite of mine. I'll be starting with a Euro truck but no doubt it won't stop there

Great build, I'm considering my first Tamiya Truck so this thread is of great interest to me RC4WD fan, I reckon it's 1 & 1/2 pairs of pears.

Have you got the steering reversed, ie, when you turn the transmitter wheel left the bikes front wheel turns right ? To launch the bike, hold it in your hand & spin up the back to get the gyro to full speed launch the bike and get on the throttle. Have a read of this thread for some tips,

Watching with interest as I'll be getting one Is the motor 380 size, and are the rear wheels a 12mm hex ?

As long as the total cost including postage is less than 15 GBP there will be no charges

For me it depends on the usage of the model, if it's a basher then I'm in the dirty camp, I do check them over and rinse/lube when and where necessary, and as mentioned earlier in the thread they'll get a full strip down every so often. However race cars will get a full strip down between meetings, i.e the 6 p's, or "to finish first first you have to finish" so hopefully the only limiting factor when racing is me.

Aaah, that's interesting The amount and size of holes in the base makes a difference to the amount of suction needed, as does the volume of the base, same as downdraft tables. Agreed the body he did was basic indeed, but it was just an example to show vacuum forming can be done at home with a diy setup, a more detailed plug and using mould release wax or suchlike means more detailed shells can be made.

Why would you need an air compressor to suck ? RC Bodies can be vacuum formed at home using a Vacuum Cleaner., and a mould/plug can be made in smaller pieces, and then finished with body filler etc. I'll be making a vacuum former when time allows.

That looks great with the grey cage, nice build thread too My Baja Rey is very tough, I've yet to have a bashing session end due to breakages.

Great minds and all that. I use a shower head in the bath to rinse mine off.

Great truck, I had one, the only issues I had was when using a LRP 28 motor the diffs didn't like it. The solution was to use longer screws to hold the ring gear to the diff case, also the shock towers would bend quite easily so I made a brace that ran between the front and rear towers. The body and engine's long gone but I've still most of the truck and was thinking of a brushless conversion one day. There's a few parts on ebay for the XTM Mammoth (same truck)

Given the the amount of power the battery took to recharge, your "problem" was the LVC kicking in. I get between 10-15 minutes from a 5000mAh pack in my Losi Baja Rey that has a similar set up and weight.

It's an Ansmann Macnum/Team C Hyde with locked diff.

For sand running, I like 2wd with a locked diff and sand paddles, also the simpler the model the better for cleaning purposes. After a beach run I rinse the car with fresh water to remove the salt water and sand, then a quick spray with wd40 to the bearings, and wipe of any excess oil.

A couple of video's from yesterday. Great fun. I'm now in the process of fitting a different gearbox with slipper and adjustable gearing, a basic design flaw in my opinion. I'm just about to start a new topic about it

Will do, I'll start an owners thread later, unless someone beats me to it

Possibly a better option if Crawling is the intended, use the Outback Mini is a "Trailer" really, it has a good turn of speed but struggles a bit with low down torque, I got mine yesterday

Mini or full size ?

Good choice and a good buy, better than a Ripmax Coyote eh It'll be plenty quick enough with that set up on 2S.

Mine's been dispatched from Wheelspin, they are also showing stock of both colours. Also Timetunnel have them advertised on Ebay for £69 with free postage. I'm tempted to get another one.

It's why I rang them and despite the assurances I was given I'm ready to be disappointed. Back to topic, ECX are doing a version also, with a different body and tyres, and higher price tag. This video makes me hungry.