XMAXX owners thread!

[Kukynas]

2 hours ago, Guns said:

Also, going to need some more lipos, this motor eats them Any ideas? Im rubbish at finding batteries!

 

What size of the tray and what C ratings? that hobbywing motor looks to be amps sucker...once you have it up and running again you should check your amps draw via amp meter, might be potential culprit of the issue

 

ESC failure can happen anytime to anyone, it’s just electronics and if it’s not up to the task for some reason you can always choose different type/brand 😉

 

don’t give up, you are nearly there 👍

[markymarky]

56 minutes ago, Guns said:

The HRBs are what I run now. Was thinking I need more mah though...

 

I was thinking the other day, dangerous I know

Running in series doubles the voltage, so 2x4S at 16.8v = 33.6V

However running in parallel doubles the capacity, so 2x4S is still 16.8v but doubles whatever the capacity is, so say 2x4000mah in parallel would be equivalent to 8000mah

So, would it be possible to have 4 4S batteries in total, 2 each side connected in parallel to double the capacity and then those connected to the ESC in series to double the voltage?

In effect 33.6v at 8,000mah 

I appreciate it is a lot of batteries, connections and potentially weight but if you had 4000mah batteries that would be a bit thinner than say 5000-6000mah and you would have the equivalent of 8000mah.

Capish!?

Edited July 13, 2019 by markymarky

[Kpowell911]

30 minutes ago, markymarky said:

 

I was thinking the other day, dangerous I know

Running in series doubles the voltage, so 2x4S at 16.8v = 33.6V

However running in parallel doubles the capacity, so 2x4S is still 16.8v but doubles whatever the capacity is, so say 2x4000mah in parallel would be equivalent to 8000mah

So, would it be possible to have 4 4S batteries in total, 2 each side connected in parallel to double the capacity and then those connected to the ESC in series to double the voltage?

In effect 33.6v at 8,000mah 

I appreciate it is a lot of batteries, connections and potentially weight but if you had 4000mah batteries that would be a bit thinner than say 5000-6000mah and you would have the equivalent of 8000mah.

Capish!?

Wouldn't just a pair of 8000mah 4S give you the same without the weight of 4x Lipo's? 

[mydoddy69]

If I was looking at bigger mah lipos I’d try out a set of these 

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163339703659

 

Or 

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113232779208

 

last but not least 

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283470965433

 

for the price they have to worth a punt surely ? 

[markymarky]

6 minutes ago, Guns said:

Wouldn't just a pair of 8000mah 4S give you the same without the weight of 4x Lipo's? 

 

Yeah but when I have looked there don't seem to be that many 8000mah lipos around, not ones I would trust anyway

[Kpowell911]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163339703659?ul_noapp=true

 

They're what I was looking at, but no point until my ESC situation Is sorted.

[Kpowell911]

Should feel a bit nicer to drive now!

 

[Sharkfat78]

Is there a minimum C rating for the stock electrics on the V2? I'm crap with lipos lol

[Funkyfresh]

On 07/07/2019 at 10:31, Funkyfresh said:

Hello all,

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on a new orange Xmaxx to scratch an itch I've had for a MT for some time. I hope I am in for a treat?!

 

So,

I have a few questions if I may?

Even through rcmart say no shipping of Traxxas to the UK, do they let some orders through? I have spent about £2k with them in the last 6 months, so perhaps that helps?

If not is ModelSports or Wheelspin my best bet in the UK for the beast?

I'm not a fan of RTR servos, so any recommendations? I tend to run Savox in all my other models so is there one from them that's ideal?

My chargers and batteries are setup with EC3 connectors, can I swap the stock Traxxas ones on the ESC for EC3 or do I need EC5 to handle the amps? The charger I have (an ISDT d2) has built in XT60 connectors, so I could go that route, but do I need their bigger brother (XT90) for this rig?

Not a fan of the transmitter, so if I swap the RX and TX out for my Futaba 7PX and suitable RX, I will lose the TSM part. Is that really needed anyway? I'm new to MT so will take it slowly, but have 4S 1/8 buggies which are pretty quick. I know the handling is completely different, but as I said will take it slowly (for 2 mins at least 😂) so keen to ditch the RX/TX if I can.

 

Any thoughts welcome!

 

Cheers

 

 

 

Me again!

 

Thanks for all the replies to my original email, most helpful...

 

So I scratched that itch an bought one...

 

I'm very happy, the pictures you see of it don't convey the size of the thing when you see it in real life. And certainly in motion, the sheer heft of the thing running at speed is a sight to behold!

I have had many RC cars over the years and now everything feels like a toy compared to it.

As my mate would say it's a bit "plastic-fantastic" when it comes to the components. But they all seem to be fairly well moulded and glass filled where it counts. Overall it's changed my perception of Traxxas from "they make barely hobby grade RC" to something more positive. Things like a tube central drive shaft are great examples of using real engineering to achieve something lighter than the standard heavy steel dog bones used in say 1/8 buggies. 

I bought the bluetooth link module for the TX and although the TX is clearly built to a budget, it seems OK. Being able to put the car into training mode easily is great so my son who is 7 can also drive the car safely. 

So overall very positive.

I tried the self righting feature, but on the 4th go, it lunched the pinion and the spur. The spur has lost 90% of it teeth and the pinion 1 or 2. Looks like the pinion came loose, slid down the motor shaft and was partially engaged with just a few mm of overlap when looking from above onto the spur/pinion mesh. So I'm now running  a spare 18T pinion with the 46T spur that it comes with. And have thread locked the pinion..(lesson learned) . I'm still slightly wary of using the self righting function..Is it known to cause issues? Seems like it's puts a lot of stress on the drive chain...

 

Also, a few times after I have stopped the car say 50m away, the throttle doesn't respond when I then try to start moving again? The TX has good power and I can see the wheels turning, so the RX is receiving OK. It's only 50m, is the stock setup junk for range? After a few seconds the whole thing works again? That would make me think some sort of thermal overload, but it only happens at longer distances, never when it's close to me. Any ideas?

 

I would like to get a 50T spur. The Traxxas ones seemed to be made of some weird metal, maybe sintered? What mod1 spurs are better? 

I am running HobbyKing 6000mAh 4s x 2 in the car with EC5 connectors. Batteries are good, plenty of punch, long run times and good value. I wanted higher capacity batteries, but the price of the HK ones means it's better to buy 2 sets of these than say MaxAmps, which are eye wateringly expensive!

 

Thanks

 

M

[Tug]

Traxxas do favour sintered steel, it's cheap. It's OK for nitro, less torque. In anything BL it struggles to cope. 

 

The self righting has always killed gears, great idea that's not suited to weak drive-trains. 

[Funkyfresh]

So the hardened steel spurs are better? There are plenty on ebay (but from China, which means low shipping). Or the ones on RC modelz.. Are they OK?

I would like to get the best from the start - buy quality, buy once is what I like to do..

[Tug]

Never owned an X-Maxx, not likely to. 

 

I've heard people are happy using these hardened gears, but whether you buy Traxxas or third party, you'll need owners to chime in. 

[Kpowell911]

3 hours ago, Funkyfresh said:

So the hardened steel spurs are better? There are plenty on ebay (but from China, which means low shipping). Or the ones on RC modelz.. Are they OK?

I would like to get the best from the start - buy quality, buy once is what I like to do..

GDS make decent steel spurs, although ive never had an issue with the stock spurs. 

 

Your range issue seems to be the esc hitting LVC?

 

Id suggest never ever using self righting. Ever

Edited July 30, 2019 by Guns

[RC JUNKY]

On 20/01/2018 at 18:29, scoobied77 said:

 

Makes no difference to me. 

 

First thing I’ll be doing is sticking EC5’s on when they arrive!

 

Hopefully these will give my motor the power it deserves, I can’t find a better alternative for the spec/money ratio. They say they are a true 100c and being 8000Mah should give a noticable boost in run time. 

 

I will certainly be letting you know my thoughts when I run them. 

How did you get on with these?

[Kpowell911]

Ok, so I finally sold my E-Revo 2.0. I really didn't get on with that and Ive invested the money into the X-Maxx which is now my only RC....

 

My Max 6 developed a fault with the on off switch. Huge Props to Modelsport UK and the UK Hobbywing Distributor who offered to replace the Max 6 as it was under warranty. I spoke with Modelsport and they allowed me to put the extra to a Max 5 as I feel it would be more suitable in the long run. I initially didnt want a Max 5, as its too big and doesn't fit properly. My friend was selling an unused ESC Mounting kit and a relocated RX box, which is a bit of a bodge but I suppose it makes the best of a bad situation. I would've liked to mount an RX box up front on the telemetry screw holes, but the servo wire on the 2085x is very short so decided to use the one in the kit. Ive screwed it down to the chassis and Ill silicon bead the edges to seal it.

 

I've also switched to EC5's all round. Modelsport even soldered the ESC ones on for me!

 

I also decided to spend the rest of the money from my E-Revo sale on a Futaba 4PV. I didnt really like the 3PV but this feels much better. I initially hoped to bank some cash from the Sale of my E-Revo,  but TBH Ive probably sunk it all and more back into the hobby but hey....

 

 

I set up a profile on the 4PV and bound the RX and set the ESC up, as the new RX box sits under the ESC mount

 

 

New RX box 

 

 

The ESC didnt come with any tape (thought it was strange?) so I need to pick up some 3m tape for the ESC and the switch

 

 

 

I need to set the ESC settings using the program card and then there's not much else to do now other than use it..... maybe a few new red bits?

 

Edited August 2, 2019 by Guns

[Kpowell911]

Dont mind me just thinking out loud:

 

Xmaxx roller once everything sold: £375.

 

Futaba 4PV: £210

Traxxas 2085X Servo: £105

Max 5 ESC: £205
Hobbywing 5687 1100kv motor
B&M Motor Mount
B&M MOD 1.5 Gearing: £250
B&M ESC Mount: £25

Proline Raptor Shell + Mounts: £140
Proline Badlands MX43's + Wheels: £150

D Hawk Shock Shafts: £80
D Hawk Shock Collars: £10
D Hawk Shock Caps: £20

RPM A-Arms: £95
RPM Rear Hubs: £20
RPM Front and Rear Bumper Mounts: £25

Area RC Red Alloy Bell Crank Steering: £52

Area RC Red Alloy Steering Brace: £30
Area RC Red Alloy Rear Gearbox Cover: £15
Area RC Red Alloy Tie Rods: £15

Yeah..... She's got a point =/ Remember when I banging on about my bargain RTR X-maxx haha 

Edited August 3, 2019 by Guns

[Fly In My Soup]

Cheap Rtr.... + just a few cheap upgrades honey😁

[Kpowell911]

So, I took her for a run.

 

On the way I realised I'd not secured the ESC down so popped to B&Q for some double sided tape. Then I looked on Google maps and found a local park....

 

I drove to the said park, and it was a bit busy tbh. I walked through the trials (and ALMOST saw the appeal of a Crawler!) and finally got to a big open stretch to use it. However, It was then I decided to lose the pinion and have to carry it back to the van. I was originally running 20/35 and was pretty happy with everything, but it wasn't a huge amount different to what id replaced... I hiked back to the Van, and switched over to the 25t pinion I had. Im now running 25/35 Mod 1.5 gearing with an 1100kv motor, which seems over geared to me but we will see.

 

I managed to run my lip's right down and didnt break a thing. This thing is a monster, but I'm still getting used to the mod 1.5 noise. It sounds so mechanical!

 

That said I've found out the following:

 

I need more Lipo's
I need to up the brake power

I need to lower the punch

I need to change the LVC to high

 

Very happy with it. It did run quite hot to be honest, so Im thinking I need to get a lower tooth pinion?

 

Got some crappy pictures as I was on my own. Excuse the shell, Im scared to use my Proline one!

 

 

 

[mydoddy69]

Took my X maxx out today sorry chaps no vids and no pics but had a great bash ran 3 sets of lipos back to back flipped it crashed it bashed it and came home in one piece 🤣👍

 

Now I haven’t used it in a while and a few things seemed odd first up I had to swap my motor wires so it would run forward, second thing it kept hitting lvc, I haven’t changed any settings etc it’s just like it’s had some sort of wired change all by itself 🤷‍♂️

 

Anyone else every had a esc go wired after not using it for a while ? 

[Kpowell911]

Long story short, not used the X much and will probably being selling up soon as circumstances have changed and cant justify £2kish of Gear sat that just sat there however, for now

 

Well the 1100kv motor runs great but it does run warm and I dont wanna gear down haha.

 

Ive always wanted to try a low KV motor, and a while ago I noticed the Surpass/Rocket Hobby Motors. Now I paid a few pence under £50 for this. Delivered. It came within a week....

 

How they've done this for sub £50 I dont know. Its a 5692 730kv motor. It looks identical to the Hobbywing 5687 I run other than been longer. It also doesn't appear to have a sealed end bell, as you can see from the shaft, where as the HW one is covered.

 

Looks amazing for the money, Ill throw it in at some point!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 29, 2019 by Guns

[mydoddy69]

34 minutes ago, Guns said:

Long story short, not used the X much and will probably being selling up soon as circumstances have changed and cant justify £2kish of Gear sat that just sat there however, for now

 

Well the 1100kv motor runs great but it does run warm and I dont wanna gear down haha.

 

Ive always wanted to try a low KV motor, and a while ago I noticed the Surpass/Rocket Hobby Motors. Now I paid a few pence under £50 for this. Delivered. It came within a week....

 

How they've done this for sub £50 I dont know. Its a 5692 730kv motor. It looks identical to the Hobbywing 5687 I run other than been longer. It also doesn't appear to have a sealed end bell, as you can see from the shaft, where as the HW one is covered.

 

Looks amazing for the money, Ill throw it in at some point!

 

 

 

 

Very nice find 👍👍

 

Your probably need new gearing to run that low kv motor though 👍

[Sharkfat78]

Need some Xmaxx advice folks. Had it a few weeks now and ran it a handful of times. I wanted to swap the stock receiver out for a spare Spektrum AVC receiver I have. Wanted the AVC and to be able to use my Spekky to adjust all the settings. ESC wouldn't calibrate then. Stuck a standard Spektrum receiver in which worked, but as with the AVC receiver,  the sensor/telemetry wires are useless.

Other option is to drop £40 on the link module thing so I can use the app on my phone to set everything, but then I still have to mess about with two transmitters. Ideal scenario would be to use my Spekky gear, not have to worry about the sensor/telemetry wires and have everything calibrated and working properly. 

Not had this with any other RC I've owned 🤯

[mydoddy69]

9 hours ago, Sharkfat78 said:

Need some Xmaxx advice folks. Had it a few weeks now and ran it a handful of times. I wanted to swap the stock receiver out for a spare Spektrum AVC receiver I have. Wanted the AVC and to be able to use my Spekky to adjust all the settings. ESC wouldn't calibrate then. Stuck a standard Spektrum receiver in which worked, but as with the AVC receiver,  the sensor/telemetry wires are useless.

Other option is to drop £40 on the link module thing so I can use the app on my phone to set everything, but then I still have to mess about with two transmitters. Ideal scenario would be to use my Spekky gear, not have to worry about the sensor/telemetry wires and have everything calibrated and working properly. 

Not had this with any other RC I've owned 🤯

 The traxxas stuff ie sensors etc only work with the traxxas transmitters etc you can’t cross match sadly. If you want telemetry and all the bells and whistles then your either have to use 2 radios or get one that supports everything you want and get the sensors etc for that radio which can be costly. 

 

Me i I use a flysky GT5 as that has avc and a programme card for the hobbywing max 5 don’t really see the

need for the other stuff as once you have your gearing set etc to what suits you and where you go you very rarely check it or change it again anyway I find 

 

edit 

 

I wouldn’t waste money on the module as the stock esc want last long and that doesn’t work with other esc either 👍

Edited September 1, 2019 by mydoddy69

[Sharkfat78]

Cheers Doddy. Yeah not bothered about the telemetry stuff. Just slightly concerned with the wires not being plugged in, but if that doesn't affect anything that's good with me  

I'd seen people mentioning using a Max 5/6 with them. Are the stock ESC's that bad? 

[mydoddy69]

15 minutes ago, Sharkfat78 said:

Cheers Doddy. Yeah not bothered about the telemetry stuff. Just slightly concerned with the wires not being plugged in, but if that doesn't affect anything that's good with me  

I'd seen people mentioning using a Max 5/6 with them. Are the stock ESC's that bad? 

 Plenty go wrong but that’s Traxxas for you 🤣🤣. Good motors crap esc’s 🤣👍