Funkyfresh

So the hardened steel spurs are better? There are plenty on ebay (but from China, which means low shipping). Or the ones on RC modelz.. Are they OK? I would like to get the best from the start - buy quality, buy once is what I like to do..

Me again! Thanks for all the replies to my original email, most helpful... So I scratched that itch an bought one... I'm very happy, the pictures you see of it don't convey the size of the thing when you see it in real life. And certainly in motion, the sheer heft of the thing running at speed is a sight to behold! I have had many RC cars over the years and now everything feels like a toy compared to it. As my mate would say it's a bit "plastic-fantastic" when it comes to the components. But they all seem to be fairly well moulded and glass filled where it counts. Overall it's changed my perception of Traxxas from "they make barely hobby grade RC" to something more positive. Things like a tube central drive shaft are great examples of using real engineering to achieve something lighter than the standard heavy steel dog bones used in say 1/8 buggies. I bought the bluetooth link module for the TX and although the TX is clearly built to a budget, it seems OK. Being able to put the car into training mode easily is great so my son who is 7 can also drive the car safely. So overall very positive. I tried the self righting feature, but on the 4th go, it lunched the pinion and the spur. The spur has lost 90% of it teeth and the pinion 1 or 2. Looks like the pinion came loose, slid down the motor shaft and was partially engaged with just a few mm of overlap when looking from above onto the spur/pinion mesh. So I'm now running a spare 18T pinion with the 46T spur that it comes with. And have thread locked the pinion..(lesson learned) . I'm still slightly wary of using the self righting function..Is it known to cause issues? Seems like it's puts a lot of stress on the drive chain... Also, a few times after I have stopped the car say 50m away, the throttle doesn't respond when I then try to start moving again? The TX has good power and I can see the wheels turning, so the RX is receiving OK. It's only 50m, is the stock setup junk for range? After a few seconds the whole thing works again? That would make me think some sort of thermal overload, but it only happens at longer distances, never when it's close to me. Any ideas? I would like to get a 50T spur. The Traxxas ones seemed to be made of some weird metal, maybe sintered? What mod1 spurs are better? I am running HobbyKing 6000mAh 4s x 2 in the car with EC5 connectors. Batteries are good, plenty of punch, long run times and good value. I wanted higher capacity batteries, but the price of the HK ones means it's better to buy 2 sets of these than say MaxAmps, which are eye wateringly expensive! Thanks M

Yes, I think you are right, none of the codes I found work at the mo. Cheers anyway👍

Thank you, most helpful Mark.. I will take a look at rcgeeks Any links to the code you used?

Hello all, I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on a new orange Xmaxx to scratch an itch I've had for a MT for some time. I hope I am in for a treat?! So, I have a few questions if I may? Even through rcmart say no shipping of Traxxas to the UK, do they let some orders through? I have spent about £2k with them in the last 6 months, so perhaps that helps? If not is ModelSports or Wheelspin my best bet in the UK for the beast? I'm not a fan of RTR servos, so any recommendations? I tend to run Savox in all my other models so is there one from them that's ideal? My chargers and batteries are setup with EC3 connectors, can I swap the stock Traxxas ones on the ESC for EC3 or do I need EC5 to handle the amps? The charger I have (an ISDT d2) has built in XT60 connectors, so I could go that route, but do I need their bigger brother (XT90) for this rig? Not a fan of the transmitter, so if I swap the RX and TX out for my Futaba 7PX and suitable RX, I will lose the TSM part. Is that really needed anyway? I'm new to MT so will take it slowly, but have 4S 1/8 buggies which are pretty quick. I know the handling is completely different, but as I said will take it slowly (for 2 mins at least 😂) so keen to ditch the RX/TX if I can. Any thoughts welcome! Cheers

tis nice - but not cheap, and i wish you could buy the bits separately...

I have the standard turnigy and the nano versions. Both are good, but the nanos have a much flatter discharge curve and worth the little extra.

Bloody typical! I was after this a few months ago http://www.msuk-foru...__fromsearch__1 but CML said they had no plans to bring it to the UK and so wouldn't stock any spares.. So i bought Losi Ten SCTE Now this has come out and the HPI Apache and SC models too.. My life already!

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Thanks Si.. As ever your knowledge is encyclopedic! I did run the car very gingerly for a few runs, just to be sure the ESC wasn't going to overheat. Its only slightly warm at the end of a run. The motor on the other had is getting hot, so I’m going to get a fan/heatsink combo for it. I’m pretty pleased with the GT2, its held up well and was a good recommendation (by you) when i wanted something for my Ultima..It can run 3s with upgraded fan, but the motor cant. TBH the truck is pretty fast anyway, so its not an issue.

Afternoon all, Just bought a Losi Ten SCTE and fitted my existing GT2 ESC into it. It seems to run well with the Tekin Pro 4 motor I’m using, but I just wondered whether I’m limiting the performance in any way as most would suggest a 1/8 spec ESC for this truck? Never had an SC before, and i have to say they are great fun to drive, the Losi is heavy, but planted and goes like poo off a spade...

Me too.. But who buys this stuff now? I’m guessing its not cheap, and thus you are spending a whole lot of dosh on a model that not going to drive amazingly compared to a contemporary 1/10 buggy. It wont suit a shelf queen as its not original, so can anyone enlighten me ?

running for ages - and so the engine was nice a and warm..

I will try a little leaning. Stalling after that long isn't a problem, I just thought it should idle indefinitely?

Progress!! I reset the engine to factory settings and then re-tuned it. Now it's running pretty well , much better than it was. it's got a tendency to stall after idling for 30s or so. But it's a little boggy on aceleration. Should I lean the LSN some more? I think I'm going to get a primer too. Seems like a nice simple solution. Thanks for the advice everyone, very helpful

Thanks everyone for your comments so far... I do keep over priming the engine, hence the shearing of the turbofan. I have a rotostart, and its difficult to gauge just how much fuel has gone in once the it reaches the carb. Normally I underestimate, then the engine wont start. So I prime some more, but as I say a the rotostart spins so fast, Its hard to prime just a little bit more, if you know what I mean? Any suggestions? I have tried richening the HSN - and its back where it was when it was running correctly. But still no top end? And the LSN is pretty much right too...I only tweaked the needles when I had the clutch problems, so I know that they aren’t a whole turn different to what they were... PS. some of you are up late/v early !

My 2nd hyper 7 has been nothing but trouble... I keep flooding the engine and hydraulically lockinging it.. Then the turbofan pin shears off and bits of alloy fill the crankcase. I know this is my fault.. But I just can't seem to get the engine to hold a tune! My latest problem is that that i flipped the buggy over a few weeks ago. That broke the clutch so that it was catching at idle and thus stalling the engine. Didn't realise this straight away and so stupidly I fiddled with both HSN then LSN Now the engine lacks both top end and bogs when accelerating. I thought I'd start to lean the HSN out after richening the LSN to be safe. Top speed seems down, but if I lean it out anymore I don't get any more speed? And then engine stalls all the time? If I lean the LSN out the accerstion picks up, but it still stalls? End engine runs quite hot. And glow plugs then blow..so that must be running too lean now? So what am I doing wrong? I think I need hands on help...no hobby shops near me though It's great when it runs, but compared to my leccy Ultima, it's just soooo much hassle

+1 on that.

Thanks Si for the info I'm leaning towards the losi if I was to go down the Sc route, I like the idea of the 1/8 ruggedness What ESC and motors do they run at your club?

If i was to go down the conversion route for hyper , what ESC and motor combo would be best? Possibly one that could also be used in the Losi, if i got that later on? I was thinking of the Tekin Rx8? Big bugger though..Or one of the new Orion Vortex controllers? And Si, Have you driven the AE SC10 as well as the Losi? Seems like its lighter and more nimble than the Losi, but might not be quite as reliable and needs work to get it to handle well? The Losi is heavier but just needs a decent set of electrics and is fairly sorted out of the box?

Ta for the info. Im going to have a think...

Ah - maybe I wasn't clear - I have both a Hyper 7.5 I’m keeping as-is, and an old Hyper 7 that I blew the engine up on and left sitting to one side. That’s the one I’m thinking of converting. What conversion kit did you use?

Chers for that Si, I knew its based on a 1/8 buggy - but wouldn't it have different suspension setup to give it more ground clearance?

I cant stand the program, the guy with glasses is a bell-end. They make Clarkson et al seem normal..

I have a 2wd Ultima buggy and love it - thats alot down to the fact its reliable , always works and I can use it everywhere, as opposed to my nitro Hyper 7... But I want a 4wd electric buggy. I have an old Hyper 7 roller I could convert, but was thinking for ease of everything and being lazy to get a Vorza? Part of me wants a SC truck though for its better ground clearance, hence the Losi comes into the mix Any thoughts on any of this gents?