jason3249 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) hi all........... iv just got a traxxas t maxx 3.3 it was going fine iv had it for afew days last owner left a tank of fuel in it so the fuel has run out obviously i thank it was a yellowy colour iv gon down to my model shop for some more and they give me BIG BANG 25 and now its just decided to blow 2 plougs after about 3mins of useing i cant get hold of the last owner all i no is the old fuel what was in it when i got it was a yellowy colour when i went to buy it i had a go for about 20mins and it was fine then i got it home and it was fine on the last tank it come with any help wil gr8 Edited February 9, 2012 by jason3249 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaun17 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 as its differnt fuel you will more than likey have to retune it, you might be using a differnt % too, so just give it a good tuning, its probly too rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baja 5b Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Plugs burn if its lean normally and will fail over-time if its rich due to being fauled by oil. But i guess you were useing those **** traxxas plugs? they're rubbish whey die all the time. If i were you i would buy a few os or o'donnell glow plugs as both are good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziggy122 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Check the tune - been lean burns them out Running rich coats them in slime - so when you do burn it off testing the plug it smokes alot the plugs - Make sure you have the correct plug The 3.3 is a Small block engine, running on 25% - you will need a medium/medium cold plug I would have thought an OS #8 plug would be fine tho I run a .21 with 25% no problems Ziggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason3249 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) iv just managed to get hold of the last owner and he says that it was on a traxxas plug and it was fine when he had it there is no smoke when running....... and its very hard to start and the shop sed that the 3,3 traxxas engine is a hot engine so i would need a hot plug or some think what you lot think if its tuning where do i start....... Edited February 9, 2012 by jason3249 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazj10 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 it way to lean mate, richen it up by at least 1/4 of a turn to start with , then go back to 1/8 increments Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason3249 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 it way to lean mate, richen it up by at least 1/4 of a turn to start with , then go back to 1/8 increments im not good with all this tuning right do i turn it now...or if i turn the screw all the way in how many turns out sorry if im a pain... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Best bet is to tune from scratch. No smoke and blowing plugs means it's very lean. This can potentially do a lot of harm to your engine, so be thankful the plugs blew fast! Go find the manual...and if it didn;t come with one you can download it from the Traxxas website. Find the stock settings for your TRX 3.3 motor. The stock settings are deliberately rich and are intended for break in, so expect it to smoke a lot and run poorly. Least you won;t damage the motor like that. Then, when you have warmed it up a bit, you can start tuning the motor. Lean off the high speed needle in 1/8 turns and run it each time. You should start to see the performance increase...but you should also ALWAYS have a healthy smoke trail at full throttle. When you think you have it ...richen it up by 1/8 of a turn for safety. I use an IR thermometer to keep an eye on temperatures when tuning, but you can also use the 'spit test'. Drop a blob of water down the cooling fins where the glowplug is and watch. If it sizzles, spits and boils off...it's too hot. If it just sits there...it's too cold. If it simmers away gently..you are about right. It's called the spit test becuase if you don;t have any water to hand...guess what you use Always tuen from too rich towards lean, as lean running can lead to a siezed motor, which is only good for use as a paperweight. Those Traxxas motors are expensive paperweights..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason3249 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 thanks m8 Best bet is to tune from scratch. No smoke and blowing plugs means it's very lean. This can potentially do a lot of harm to your engine, so be thankful the plugs blew fast! Go find the manual...and if it didn;t come with one you can download it from the Traxxas website. Find the stock settings for your TRX 3.3 motor. The stock settings are deliberately rich and are intended for break in, so expect it to smoke a lot and run poorly. Least you won;t damage the motor like that. Then, when you have warmed it up a bit, you can start tuning the motor. Lean off the high speed needle in 1/8 turns and run it each time. You should start to see the performance increase...but you should also ALWAYS have a healthy smoke trail at full throttle. When you think you have it ...richen it up by 1/8 of a turn for safety. I use an IR thermometer to keep an eye on temperatures when tuning, but you can also use the 'spit test'. Drop a blob of water down the cooling fins where the glowplug is and watch. If it sizzles, spits and boils off...it's too hot. If it just sits there...it's too cold. If it simmers away gently..you are about right. It's called the spit test becuase if you don;t have any water to hand...guess what you use Always tuen from too rich towards lean, as lean running can lead to a siezed motor, which is only good for use as a paperweight. Those Traxxas motors are expensive paperweights..... thanks m8 i think it come with a thermoter........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazj10 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) im not good with all this tuning right do i turn it now...or if i turn the screw all the way in how many turns out sorry if im a pain... best easy to remember way to tune , think of the needles as water taps, anticlockwise lets more water out, same with tuning anticlockwise lets more fuel pass = richer and the same applies to clockwise = leaner, if starting from scratch tune in 1/8 of a turn sorry i thought your post said you werent sure which way to turn ,, read it to fast sorry Edited February 9, 2012 by dazj10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason3249 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) best easy to remember way to tune , think of the needles as water taps, anticlockwise lets more water out, same with tuning anticlockwise lets more fuel pass = richer and the same applies to clockwise = leaner, if starting from scratch tune in 1/8 of a turn sorry i thought your post said you werent sure which way to turn ,, read it to fast sorry hi m8 i dont no what way to go if i start from scratch then what do i do....... take the screw out then put it in abit then start.......... or turn it out all the way and till its just slighty to the end of dropping out or what i mite sound thick is just im not that good with nitro thats why i went electric..... iv just gon through the box of bits it come with there is a thermometer in there its got a looped wire obviously wraps around the head what tempreature im i looking for Edited February 9, 2012 by jason3249 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazj10 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) fasten needle all in the way in,, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN just fasten up until you feel the slightest of resistance , then undo them to the manufacturers settings then start from there HSN - 4 turns out LSN - flush with valve or 1.5-1.75 turns out IDLE 0.70-1mm open. Edited February 9, 2012 by dazj10 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason3249 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) right i think iv got it thanks for all the advice ... one more thing is it meant to smoke... and the air filter is wet with fuel its not to bad but it is wet is that normal..... Edited February 9, 2012 by jason3249 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazj10 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 yes mate,, should smoke especially when at standard setting as it will be quite rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason3249 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 yes mate,, should smoke especially when at standard setting as it will be quite rich thanks what about the air filter is wet with fuel its not to bad but it is wet is that normal..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazj10 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 definately not normal mate, fuel shouldnt be anywhere near your airfilter and i never heard of any one with that problem before, how long is the tube that comes off the carb before it hits your filter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziggy122 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Fuel coming and soaking the filter is a sign that fuel is splashing back up - or a leak in the fuel line thats spraying the filter And the 3.3 engine is a .198CC engine, on 25% it DOES NOT REQUIRE A HOT PLUG A hot plug is for .15 engines running 16% nitro You need a Warm / Warm cold plug - such as the os #8 As for running hot - they do but not hot like your saying your hot because its running lean Ziggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason3249 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) it needs a good clean what you think....iv just replaced the fuel lines with new ones about 2mins ago........... Edited February 9, 2012 by jason3249 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziggy122 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 and sort those fuel line too.... All thatll be doing is heating the fuel before it in the engine - it can affect tune alot once upto temperature the oily cack all over the place wont help either, a dirty nitro is good, but too much = Overheating Ziggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazj10 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 is that a split in the aifilter tube , if it is , it will need replacing asap, and as said above keep fuel line off the exhasut . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason3249 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 its not a split and i just copied the old fuel lines by the looks of it there isnt no other way of doing it........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soup Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Feel free to ignore me as I am fairly new to all this but :- That black bit, is it not supposed to cover the fuel lin as it crosses the muffler.? I.E Filter-.Fuel tube-Cut of-Black stuff covered fuel tube I take it the fuel tube doesn't actually touch the header of the exhaust system. If it does re route, the fuel inlet can be swiveled, perhaps run the fuel tube the far side of the airfilter (mind you you would need to be careful routing it past(passed) that gear wheel). The pressure line from the exhaust does not cause so much concern, but I would be worried about the fuel line passing over the header/muffler like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason3249 Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 (edited) Feel free to ignore me as I am fairly new to all this but :- That black bit, is it not supposed to cover the fuel lin as it crosses the muffler.? I.E Filter-.Fuel tube-Cut of-Black stuff covered fuel tube I take it the fuel tube doesn't actually touch the header of the exhaust system. If it does re route, the fuel inlet can be swiveled, perhaps run the fuel tube the far side of the airfilter (mind you you would need to be careful routing it past(passed) that gear wheel). The pressure line from the exhaust does not cause so much concern, but I would be worried about the fuel line passing over the header/muffler like that ??? i only put the top line like that for the pic so every one can see the air filter..... Edited February 10, 2012 by jason3249 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason3249 Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 hi....... iv just got in from the model shop and they dont sell o'donnell plugs they sed its a hot plug i need so i sed every one on here sed i dont need one of them i need a warm plug so he went through the book then they phoned some one and they sed i deffinatly need a hot plug and they give me ENYA glow plug no3 hot plug any good it cost me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 I have been using enya plugs and they are spot on mate my picco has had 4 ltrs with the enya plug in it and is still fine, os plugs are also good, stay away from fastrax plugs they are gash i had one and only lasted 2ltrs although it did do my break in on my engine so i might try them again just to see how long they last on a good tune but for the enya plug i cant fault them the coils are slightly thicker so are robust to heat, but to be honest even the toughest plugs will burn out on a crap lean tune mate always stay on the rich side of a good tune by doing what nitroholic says by backing it off an 1/8th of a turn when your hitting high rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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