soup

So is this OK for spray cans as well as airbrushing?

I am getting cheesed off with having to go to the backsstep whenever I want to paint something. So I have decided to get a spray booth, The ones that are common on Amason etc seem a bit small for a 1/8 or even a 1/10 body and the ones that are big enough seem to be WAY too expensive .So I decided I will cobble up one myself . Now searching about the 'net there are some articles that talk of how explosive paint fumes can be ,and with in-line fans kitchen/bathroom extractors etc the fume laden air is pulled over (potentialy) sparking motors ... However on YT all booths seem to be built with these type of fans am I overthinking this or would I be best trying to source a (reasonably priced) Furnace Blower type fan? Does anyone use a spray booth if so which one, or did you make it your self? Edit:- Seems it's not so much the paint fumes that are explosive but the propellant in 'rattle cans'. So airbrushing is pretty much fine with inline fans, but spray painting from a can carries a small (vanishingly small?) risk of explosion, is there an airbrushable equivalent to PS paints?

The tutorials (well the two I looked at before saying 'stuff that for a game of soldiers') on YT 'tend' to show sanding/polishing the 'windows' clear. You sand with fine grit (800) sandpaper : and when it all looks really screwed you freak out but nothing for it than to trust . Then sand with very fine grade (1000) sandpaper. Thensand with incredibly fine (4000) sandpaper. then... down to (possibly)12000. Then you use Tamiya fine polishing paste. Then you use Tamiya finishing polishing paste. Eventually you get a piece of styrene that is even clearer than when it came out of the box. The idea of sanding a piece of plastic with a crack in it (indeed the very idea of deliberately crazing a clear styrene part) gives me cold shivers. Might have to do that though, if the Scania part doesn't fit.

My son has a Hercules hobby (Tamiya knockoff) Mercedes Actros(spend expensive once, cry once. Sometimes wish I had gone Tamiya in the first place). He has made a bit of a pigs ear of the windscreen with a big crack down it he glued this together and managed to get huge glue marks down each side. {1} Now I have looked for a replacement windscreen can't find one. I did however find a clear parts sprue by Hercules for the Scania model by Tamiya. It has (what looks to be) the same sort of shape/fixing system as the Mercedes. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hercules-Parts-Window-Windshield-for-RC1-14-Scale-TAMIYA-Scania-Tractor-Truck/153559961233?hash=item23c0e30e91:g:0TcAAOSwFRtdY4He Does anyone know if this Hercules part for the Tamiya Scania windscreen can be used on Herculeses Mercedes. Contacting the company is WAY down the list (it is Chinese, not even sure I CAN contact them ). Have looked at YT vids etc on ridding clear parts of glue marks but I am frightened I make a tube of it, so would rather get a new one. However a new sprue costs £26 with £9 postage ,now I am willing to spend £35 (if only to shut him up) but I am not prepared to spend that money on a punt that the windscreen will fit and then it doesn't [1] He did VERY well at the mechanical parts . But he'd decided he didn't need daddy's help with the plastic parts and bashed on in his room unbeknownst to any-one else, making a complete (well not complete, some bits can be taken apart and repainted) mess of things

That was my other thought instead of faffing about with 1" paper masking tape try 1/16" Tamiya stuff

Using masking tape does not always fully work for me, I was thinking of using a liquid mask, any reccomendations? Is it a lot harder or easier to use than tape ? Any 'gotchas' I should be aware of? Any comments on the whole tape V liquid mask 'situation'?

🤪 YAY ! Found the charger. Son's underwear drawer where else. Had used a multi charger thing which has several tips, found the one that physically fitted, had the charger set at 6V and centre positive this worked . OG charger is rated at 7.2v output so 9V should be OK Didn't have the braves to try and fully charge it so 6V was sufficient

I may be totaly misunderstanding but basicaly the ESC has nothing to do with the transmitter, (do you perhaps mean the receiver?). Flashing lights mean it is getting power so it must be plugged into something. Maybe a wee picture of your set-up (see attached for quick and dirty example ) and a description of what pattern the flaashing lights (colour and frequency) are following. I am no expert on electronics but this is just what I would do

Have lost the charger for the Ibex. So have decided to use a muti charger thing set to 9V (though the Ibex battery is 6.3V) [1],but I can have tip positive or tip negative . I was wondering if any one knew which way around the socket went or indeed where the original charger is available from so I could buy a new one. [1] Not too daft on using 9V as input to the battery but multi charger thing has settings for 3/4.5/5/6/9/12

25c on a 2200 mah battery gives about 55A, hardly not much current . OK that is burst and manufacturers tend to inflate specs, but that sort of battery should be ample for backyard running (no speed runs, no 1/8th, no constant full throttle ) but in normal running ... . Marginal for 4-wheel drive IMHO I would normally go for a minimum of 40c (capacity would be as big as I can get to fit), and Zippy and Zop batteries can be got with that sort of spec, so not too much money. But then I suppose it depends on how 'wedded' to using the original battery the OP is. Maybe this is a case of spending money (buy a new battery) in the short term to save money in the long ( less likely to bin the whole idea as it doesn't perform to expectations).

YAY!! Fixed it. After a period of pushing and holding every button in sight the lights stopped flashing and the crawler started responding . Hopefully the problem doesn't reinsert or I am stuffed, as I don't know what I did this time. EDIT :- Seems the RX (or rather the ESC/Rx combo) needs to be ON . This leads me to think there must be some kind of link back from RX to TX now as far as I knew Rxs had no send (transmit) function. This doesn't seem to be the case , here. Mmm think I will just accept rather than trying to probe deeper.

Have dug out from a cupboard an 'old' IBEX crawler (it is 1/24 ideal for crawling about the house). Put new batteries in the trsmitter but whenever I switch the transmitter on the red and green LEDs flash alternatly, and the bind/mode button doesn't change steering modes like it used too. I think the transmitter is an Ectronix 1071, I have went to the Ectronix web site looking for a manual, to see if I need to follow a sequence or something or if the TX is FUBAR. but I find a list of manauls that seem to skip from 1060 to1100. https://www.etronix-rc.com/etronix-manuals Does anyone have the original manual or have experience of same and is willing to share with me 'how to do it'? Or am I SOL and need to buy a new Tx (around £35* is not a vast sum but I'd rather not pay if I don't have to). * £34.99 from MS https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rc-systems/rc-car-categories/9910/991025&ManufacturerID=1174

As long as you don't put it in water. Yes there are workarounds, or rather ways to do things were if it all goes wrong you don't harm yourself, but ask yourself is it worth it. Especially with the likes of Zop being so, relatively, cheap. Spontaneosly combust was probably the wrong phrase LiPos tend not to explode or go on fire unless you are doing something to them (charge , discharge, puncture etc)

Never seen one spontaneously combust , eh?

Yup. How long have they been sitting on 'a shelf' not six years I'll warrant . Use them (carefully) if you must, but to my mind six years old, ditch them and buy new ,you're not saving/paying THAT much. But then what do I know of your circumstance .what level of risk you are prepared to 'undergo'. MY take is, ' I' would change but... Edit :- for personal opinion

And burn your house down (if charging) destroy your R/C (if runninng). Ever tried to reach in to a burning R/C to dissconnect the battery and try and remove it? DAMHIK Six year old LiPos, I would replace they are not THAT expensive . Is the replacement cost really worth the potential to wreck your R/C or your home.

Hi all looking for a new R/C . MUST BE A KIT (prefer wrenching to running (heretic!!) ) thinking short course or truggy about 1/10 (so small1/8 - large 1/12 acceptable ) . Basher rather than out and out racer or crawler . Any ideas? Was thinking Axial bomberv or simiar but that may be a bit long in the tooth these days , and rather hard to get hold of.

Son has a Tamiya clone truck, when manouvering it he is running it at very low speed . When he is doing this low speed manouvering the ESC/motor seems to squeal/buzz. Reading about etc seems ALL ESCs do this (or rather the motor does) as they are chopping the power at such a frequency that the motor acts like a speaker . Is there any make of ESC or Motor that is best at mitigating this? As though tolerable the squeal is fairly off-putting.

Cheers AJ. Still a bit rich for my blood (well what I will allow son to spend. He has no real idea of what money is worth so while he can work out the change on 89P from a pound he would pay a tenner for a bottle of milk) was rather hoping it would be that sort of price (or even less) for the tractor and trailer. Am I just on a 'hiding to nowt' trying to find such a beast[1]? [1]£1~200 tractor and trailer, and a kit, not too toy like.

UPDATE. He has decided[1] it has to be a kit . Showed him the SIKU stuff (they do 'ordinary' lorrys along with all the farmyard stuff)seems he doesn't want anything pre-assembled has to be a kit. [1] Well he wanted one all along it has just been communicated to me.

Thanks for that answer. Perhaps a touch of confusion though, I use the term tractor to apply to the front of lorry (the bit with the engine) not a farm impliment. Still that is a good heads up perhaps I should be looking in more places than just the well-known manufacturers.

Is there something RC truckish (not monster truck/truggy etc but a lorry, SCANIA. DAF, MAN etc) between the £30 toys ( Toy ) and the £400 Tamiya units ( Tamiya unit ) (that is just for the tractor, the trailers are another £2~400)? Say about £1~200 complete (batteries, radio gear, motor is not a problem) . Son (special needs, he can cope with a kit but conversion is very much a "it depends") has his heart set on a truck for use indoors (so smallish scale 1:18 or so ). High top speed not important, more manouvering than out and out speed runs.

Seems the HL ones come in several 'versions' . Variously marked as P(standard) Z, S, MZ, MS (all Pro modals) . With varying amounts of metal components The metal components are in a Zinc alloy or steel I assume the Z or S in the model type indicate this. I did not realise that 'Pro' meant promotional not proffesional. Wrote to Nitrotek (are they really as bad as everyone makes out?) they were unable to say (big red flag there) what versions they supplied .

Leopard is not a Chally though, soz.

Seriously thinking about getting an RC tank . Got the money just have to persuade the wife Want a Challenger II (rather than the oh so common Tiger/Sherman/Panther etc. Want as un-toy like as possible so was thinking metal tracks gearbox etc What is considered the best on the market at 1/16 scale(for sensible money say £200~£250) Heng long pro or the rctanks .de one Modelling and Radio control hold no fears for me , painting I am not so confident (not an artistic bone in my body). Invisage me doing minor weathering only Apparently Taigen (which is in itself a 'developement' of Heng long) doesn't do a Challenger.. Sure I read somewhere that Taigen/Heng long have a 'new' distributor and their versions are the kiddies to go for. Aside:- Does anyone else dislike the smoke systems? They always seem faint and whispy like something is smouldering rather than like exhausts (IMHO). Edit 1 Oh and BB or IR . What is considered best/most common etc Edit 2 Looks like the rctanks.de one IS the Heng Long version