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What did you do to your model today?


stretch

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The Kraton rebuild has begun.

 

This is the first dry-assemble of the centre diff (no oil to check shimming).

 

I probably could have shimmed the planet gears a little more, but overall it was close enough that I'm happy so I've stuck some 300k oil in there and now just waiting for it to settle.

 

Shims used:

Outdrives - 3mm on one side and 2.5mm on the other from either 3RAC-SW05/V2 or KYO96643

Sun Gear - KYO96774 on one, and the 6x20 shim from FTX7694 on the other

Planet Gear - CR452 on one gear and the 3.6x12x0.2 from ASC89108 on the other side of the pin. I found the associated one to be a bit thicker than the Core RC shim.

P1010494.JPG

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Finished up algining the wheelbase and smoothing out all the edges on the C10.

Put some new hubs on and new tyres, got proper tuck now, doesn't look like a massive difference but it's enough for me to tell and be happier with it now.

Waiting for new TRX4 springs to bring the ride height down a touch further and waiting for paint.

Trying to decide if to paint the inside or the outside.

 

ZBvcr1Q.jpg

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Made some progress on the rebuild. This Titanium chassis is super interesting to work with as it's kinda deliberately flexible.

 

Not impressed with the replacement diff case from Arrma though. Had to really persuade it into shape and even file some edges as it was fouling the Ackerman... But it's in there.wonder if i got a bad batch or if they changed supplier, as I'm sure the original one was better.bf009fd916b5a13c91bf11f2a9aefcb7.jpg64ef3d87c3f6283c240924d57024d93f.jpg

 

 

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Decided to put the Rocket motor in for the build this time, and also added a heatsink to ensure zero temp issues, even though I really wasn't expecting any.

As you can see from the pics, I'm trying out some thermal tape to improve conductivity between the heatsink and fins. Logic being similar to thermal paste on a PC HSF, in that the metal to metal contact wouldnt be perfect so hopefully the tape will fill the gaps.

I also added a small rubber pad where the bottom of the motor will be near the chassis. I'm hoping when doing jumps this will reduce the amount of strain on the motor mount for landings.32f1e9ad420b7fe7f6cceec235a3291b.jpg225844866037a4eda6aff8850747b7b1.jpg5061f12f2b72af6d22bfb2ebde5d15ce.jpg8dd376d2264d97905b959617f2160e95.jpg8d5e79978e0e62506ec0fa3d0c40b2fe.jpg78a85b844371e12aa9cdf5b57b419f1f.jpg

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Colour decided, I actually wanted to go with something different this time, to my usual blue or red, but I think this will work, I am taking inspiration from a 1:1 truck.

Running a HW 1080, Holmes 35t Trailmaster, and a cheap Amazon servo, using it as somewhat of an experiment, for more 'realistic' slow steering.

 

49531493302_28bee8037a_c.jpg

 

49531268546_1402a42e30_c.jpg

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