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Going racing with a proper E-buggy again after a brief love affair with an Agama a319 nitro that ended in a dead Reds Scuderia race motor after a random conrod failure. I can't be arsed to buy another 400 quid race engine. Have ordered a Tekno EB48 2.1 and a Hobbywing ESC/Taurus motor to go in it. The buggy is on back order so I have dragged my old Ansmann X8E out of the lock up and gone through it like a ton of bricks so I have a test bed for the electronics whilst I'm sorting the new chassis. Jobs today have been: Bloody good clean/as much rust removal as possible All bearings lubed Diffs pulled, checked for condition, drained, cleaned and refilled with fresh oil set 10/7/5 respectively. Shocks stripped, seals greased and refilled. Radio box built up with my race radio, a trick steering servo out of the Agama and topped with a transponder. Found/fitted a mixed set of hexes/nuts cos I robbed the originals off it for something else over the years. New velcro straps. Royal mail tried to deliver the new power system for it Sat but both me and the missus were at work so will pick up tomorrow. Can't wait to get it out on the track again. Pics as it stands. It was/is very rusty. 😁😂

Okay its been time to get a bit more positive with the "Pig in a poke", first up it was time to tackle low speed modulation, it comes with a 1060, not bad but could be a lot better so fitted a Hobbywing 1080 and took a bit of time setting it up just nice, low speed modulation is now a LOT better. Next up was not happy with the wheel hex`s, i found the wheels did not seem to fit just nice then remembered i had a set of Brass 12mm hex extenders, so on they went, seems better and as a result the truck now has a slightly wider track. As a future mod i am tempted to remove the rear silver bed, (shell is bolted 2 part) and get some Black 3mm plasticard and attempt to make a kinda flatbed/pari daker type bed for it and have the lipo mounted in a box right behind the cab, i would likely double up the bed base to 6mm, with 3mm sides

Was not so happy with the wheel hex set up on the NT4, then remembered i had some 12mm brass hex extensions so decided to fit them, the wheels are better supported now and as a bonus a little wider on the stance of the truck

I'll usually get it done. 😂 Found out that Asiatees still have 99% of the parts for this in stock under the Team C name so it's still a viable chassis. The European version of the car died a long time ago so was good to stumble across a treasure trove of parts. 😁

ordered a set of roof bars hopefully will be here soon after the new truck which might be with me by end of week, i think these bars look rather scale as to what might be fitted to the 1:1 Bronco

Done a few bits to my defender. Managed to get the paint of the front windows and windscreen. They aren't crystal clear but I need to try and polish them. I did fit the injora light kit, not the best to be honest. Rock sliders and chequer plate. The cherokee body is the injora 324mm wheel Base version. Only finished painting it yesterday and assembled the body panels last night. I used Tamiya primer and hycote acrylic paint and hycote lacquer.

Just be weary about the weight you add, it will strain the stock electrics if its mainly brass. personally, steer clear of high clearance links, they leave the driveshaft U.J. Exposed and it getting hung up (ive done this, straight links are definitely the way to go.) stock shocks are approx 53mm, the Injora alloy shocks at 53mm sit perfectly on the defender too, 59mm shocks will work to but raise the truck (something you wanted??). Use 20wt to 30wt oil for the shocks too. if i were spending your money, go for alloy hubs/knuckles (less wear then brass), servo horn and steering link and suspension links. then in brass, go for wheels (or bead lock rings), hexes. It will weigh in less overall but will be able to cope with the current electrics. then learn how to drive it, yes they are a little top heavy (especially if its rammed with scale bits and bobs) but learning to master it is much more rewarding. again, just my thoughts based on what ive built and the terrain i use them on, (this can differ massively too)

@Lilredmachine there is no stopping you is there with your building 👍👍😜😜

We’ve got a Lola too! And her son Benny in the front

I try to plan to charge night before with my lipo`s, when i was flying rc planes i might have to charge a few Thursday/friday and saturday ready for a sunday session

you can use it straight away or you can charge it the evening before a bash but dont keep them fully charged for days tho I would invest in a lipo sack or an ammo box or a batsafe box to store your lipos in

try giving the batteries a proper 1c balance charge and try them 1c is 4a for the 4000 mah and 5.2a for 5200 mah battery

you might of been better giving each lipo a proper charge

Yeah, longer shocks will lift the height of your truck. I think stock length on the Bronco and Defender are 53mm. Injora do 59mm shocks that are pretty good value about 20 quid.

Yes thanks. I should have dug further before posting 😕. I found an explanation about the inductors here: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/648373/inductors-at-a-dc-motors-terminals Mike

does look nice tho mate

Change of plan for one of my trx4s. The injora lcg chassis is going on hold for now. A load of bump steer, would probably need changing to 4 link front end. Setup back as stock chassis with injora 324mm stainless links to suit the cherokee body. Still setting the body height, position, bumpers etc. Also got black wheels and some new boots. I rate the fastrax rocko tyres highly. Great for crawling.

Heres hoping you get on with it better now mate

just look on ebay for 50mm ammo case if you get one cut a short section out of the rubber seal in the lid, dead easy to do

Woke up a bit early this morning so I thought I'd try a time lapse...

Interesting, kev talbot will need to get on the case me thinks

Hello All, After a long long long time away from RC and having sold all my rigs some 9 years ago I all of a sudden had an itch to get myself something. It kind of started by watching a ton of YouTube vids of xmaxx's and was really into the idea of getting one and I don't know how but I ended up with a trx4 2021 bronco. I really got into the vids of crawling and the realism of the whole thing. So found a good condition trx4 with some upgrades including the pro scale light kit (with an issue), rock lights, hobbywing 1800kv fusion pro (it's amazing!) beadlock wheels and super grippy tyres, svaox 1210sg servo (annoyingly buzzy). Have a few mods/upgrades scale items I want to get to make it my own. For now here are some pics. P.s. If any of you seasoned pros can help with an issue. So I've added some pics below of the halo light, when I've plugged in the battery the halos come on, however the right side doesn't work fully. But when I turn on the power and the low beams come on it appears the halos work fully. But in only day running lights it only half works on the right. Any clues as to what the issue might be?

I'll just leave this here. 👌👍

Fitted the carbon fibre bits and stainless fixings to the rear of the Baja build. Rear end just about there now. Will be getting BRP wheels and tyres all round, will probably buy the rear adapters/extenders and rear wheel/tyres to complete the back end and then move onto the front. Already started to build up the front and looking at what upgrades i am going to do to it.

Just a reminder for people like me who own lipo’s but rarely use their RCs lately. Just check your lipo’s. Condition and voltages. I have 20 or so Lipo’s, stored in BatSafes. Just checked the voltages and all seems ok, but two appeared to drop out of balance. Nothing major but one cell was 0.2v out. Just trying to rectify with a charge/discharge to balance out. Hopefully be ok as theyre quite expensive 4S Lipo’s

Brass links and brass skid plate yes. Shock lift kits are pretty ridiculed over on the TX4M FB pages for doing nothing. If you plan on using the stock body then I'd stick with the stock shocks as any extra travel will cause rubbing so won't add any performance. At this stage I'd only be buying upgrades that could be transferred over to caged style build, currently you seem in two minds about it. Brass hubs & diffs covers are a good option that can be carried across to pretty much any build. Brass 1.0" wheels are also a good idea as you can add bigger tires later on if you want so you don't end up buying things twice. Buying from Injora directly is way cheaper then from MS and usually arrives within 2 weeks.

In the hope i can get to like the Cross NT4 i stuck an HW 1080 ESC in and set it up, time will tell, dont laugh at all the wires thats how it arrived from new

I've been doing a few hard bodies lately, never put them on any crawlers as the weight put me off. But I think they do look really cool. I picked up this Injora cherokee pick up body (jeep pick up truck is a comanche). Fits really good. Most of the trucks I have need lower rear shock towers or a cantilever shock setup to allow the rear bed to sit at the right height. Straight on at the correct height on the scx10 pro chassis. I tried to get the nardo grey Audi colour. The nearest I could get was ts32 haze grey. So in the picture the body is sat on the stock rear body mounts and the front bumper. Magnetic mounts would probably work. It would be good if I could swap the bodies reasonably easy, both bodies on magnetic mounts and the front bumper to change. The pictures aren't great and the body isn't finished, I was just curious to see if it would fit. I do think it looks pretty good.

Yea i love this kind of terrain, love watching the axles adapting to keep ground contact

Tawny owl strike in the garden. Looks like it got something. Had seen a rat so hopefully it's nailed that.

Looks great👍 I really wanted lights on the roof of mine but I have already had many tumbles and rolls.... Ideally I want to find something with a roll over bar over the top... I have switched the 5mm LEDs that came with my AliExpress lights to 3mm warm white (£1.41 for 15 with flying leads) which has made a huge difference to balance the lights out I also mounted one in each front wheel arch through the back, which work nicely as a dim rocklight for behind the bumper....you can see the glow in the pic...