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Lilredmachine

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Everything posted by Lilredmachine

  1. Bump, 200 quid including fees/postage.
  2. I'll usually get it done. 😂 Found out that Asiatees still have 99% of the parts for this in stock under the Team C name so it's still a viable chassis. The European version of the car died a long time ago so was good to stumble across a treasure trove of parts. 😁
  3. Going racing with a proper E-buggy again after a brief love affair with an Agama a319 nitro that ended in a dead Reds Scuderia race motor after a random conrod failure. I can't be arsed to buy another 400 quid race engine. Have ordered a Tekno EB48 2.1 and a Hobbywing ESC/Taurus motor to go in it. The buggy is on back order so I have dragged my old Ansmann X8E out of the lock up and gone through it like a ton of bricks so I have a test bed for the electronics whilst I'm sorting the new chassis. Jobs today have been: Bloody good clean/as much rust removal as possible All bearings lubed Diffs pulled, checked for condition, drained, cleaned and refilled with fresh oil set 10/7/5 respectively. Shocks stripped, seals greased and refilled. Radio box built up with my race radio, a trick steering servo out of the Agama and topped with a transponder. Found/fitted a mixed set of hexes/nuts cos I robbed the originals off it for something else over the years. New velcro straps. Royal mail tried to deliver the new power system for it Sat but both me and the missus were at work so will pick up tomorrow. Can't wait to get it out on the track again. Pics as it stands. It was/is very rusty. 😁😂
  4. Thunder RC now has one of these trucks and has had a couple of bash sessions with it. First was very light, second was geared up with a 23T pinion allowing it to catch huge, huge air. It had repeated huge landings from about 40ft up and didn't have a breakage, chassis held up just fine.
  5. Well that looks cool. Does it suck up a carrier bag then cost 3k to fix like a real one though? 😏😂
  6. Where there's a will there's a way. 😂
  7. Noted, won't happen again. I'm away from a pen or any paper at the mo as at my lockup but here are pictures of said SBR. Pictures of Yikong desert truck (same size as a UDR) and 1/10th Ramraider MT added for scale. Price... Er, 270 quid shipped (as long as it's UK) and PayPal fees included. Like I said (and as you can no doubt see from the photos) this is a project truck with potential. But that's all it is. 😂
  8. I'll get pics in the morning of how this presently sits but essentially it's a complete and working Losi SBR truck sans bodyshell. Overall condition is poor, some **** has tried to spray paint bits of it black by standing 4 foot away and blowing the dust in the general direction of the damn thing. The drivetrain was originally seized when I got it, fortunately I narrowed this down to the rear composite telescoping driveshaft being locked in place instead of sliding which was an easy fix (though it did take 3 hours to get into free off). I do have a brand new driveshaft which can go with the truck should the problem occur again. The drivetrain has proved to be healthy apart from that. The steering servo has been replaced with a beefy large scale servo that didn't fit properly, and was therefore held down with one screw. I have modified the servo itself to get the rest of the 3 screws in and now it steers great instead of pivoting the servo about. It had a broken and cable tied together a-arm at the front so it has a new set of arms on there now. The shocks are all present and mercifully straight. The only suspension damage remaining is a bend on one of the enormous rear link bars. I can only imagine this was accomplished by some sort of meteor strike as they are bleeding thick. The rear axle still sits straight as I was able to unthread the link a couple of turns to counteract the shortening effect of the bend. As stated, it runs and works. This means that there is a useable rebadged Max 6 (a Fuze branded one) ESC and big can 1/5th/1/6th 1200KV motor in there. The fan on the ESC was frenched when I got it, I have replaced it with a new item so it both sucks and blows. This would suit as a rolling, driveable large scale project truck for someone, I don't have the time with concentrating on racing these days. Not to mention a budget for a new bodyshell for one of these things. They are roughly the same price as a three bedroom house in Liverpool, and I don't want to finish it that bad. 😂 If you are going to buy it I'd highly recommend a decent strip down, clean and reconstruction with a bolt kit to hand as whatever tit owned it before has butchered a lot of the hardware trying to undo it with what I'm guessing was a packet of particularly blunt churros. I haven't found one I was unable to undo yet, but a few have certainly been troublesome. From what I can see it shouldn't need many if any parts apart from it's missing the dust guards at the front of the chassis which can be picked up from E-bay for not a lot. That and a rear link bar, again available surprisingly reasonably cheap on E-bay. Drives fine as is though. Pricing is difficult, so I'm going to leave this open to offers, however due to the electronics in there it needs to be a decent amount (IE more than some pocket lint and fluff). If someone wants just the roller for parts for their SBR I'm willing to talk about that as a cheaper option.
  9. Only information I've found relating to this is that several people solved it by swapping to MT2 shafts, they are a different lengths but accounted for it by swapping the arms to MT2 arms which bolt straight on and use the same hubs. This appears to be a materials issue rather than a design problem, which is a bit disappointing from Hobao. The MT2 shafts are essentially the same design, but produced far earlier than the MT sport shafts and apparently with better metallurgy.
  10. Just to add to this, it would appear tha Hobao have reacted to this problem and produced different shafts. Do you have a way of measuring the shaft diameter (in the middle)? it needs to be down to the mm ideally.
  11. Ah right, i've seen references to people replacing the broken pins with high tensile screws and getting better results. Maybe try applying some heat to squeeze them out without cracking the ball. Shouldn't have to do it, but it wouldn't be a hobby if we didn't have to fix manufacturers mistakes. XD
  12. A question I do have, are the pins removable? Have you tried punching the broken stubs out of the ball?
  13. To be honest I find 6s trucks to be far nicer to drive and more entertaining on 4s. You do miss the crazy wheelspeed, flips and air that comes with irresponsible amounts of power but driving becomes a lot less stressful and damage is somewhat reduced. 😂 I'm going to do a bit of research and see if there's a way of getting another set of shafts in there. Most likely they are reused from the Hyper buggy series and aren't suited to the larger wheels of the MT as you mentioned. A rare miss from Hobao!
  14. What's it doing? Looks like it's snapping the pin?
  15. Oh, I like Traxxas. I had an original Hawk. 😂 I've got a slash, just sold my Xmaxx (as you know) had a Revo 3.3 and various others. They *can* make innovative cars and have the power to do great things in the hobby. They also are recently a great source of evil. Crazy pricing is part of that. Maxx Slash for example. It's a Maxx with a longer chassis, short arms, big shell and smaller wheels. Current UK price for V2 Widemaxx = £580. Current price for a Maxx Slash = £759. Wild. Incidentally, the Maxx for whatever reason is pretty much dollar to £, which brings the whole thing back around. 😂 All I was saying about sales tax is Traxxas don't give a ***** about that, it doesn't affect them, they set an MSRP and go with it. Sales tax varies all over the US, is set by individual states and 5 states don't even have one, so it's not like they can account for it at manufacturer price point level. So, if it costs 780ish quid in the states for Traxxas AND the hobby shop to make a profit, we're looking at a £310+ cost to get a single Xmaxx unit into the country (considering they do it in bulk) without Traxxas loading the price? Don't see it personally. But that's just me.
  16. Explain to me how sales tax makes a difference to Traxxas and you win a cookie. Plenty of RCs are £ to dollar equivalent. Losi Promoto for one.
  17. So it should be 950 quid then? I understand how that works, but taking into account sales tax in the US there is a 250 quid load on the cost of an Xmaxx on top of the profit Traxxas are already making on the truck. That can't all be background costs. Usually, dollars convert into £s on import, usually including shipping.
  18. Don't know about that, the PD racing version may appear over here for close to the dollar price. The Redcat Machete/PD racing magnetron is 500 quid from Century Models in the UK, and 500 dollars in the states. The Xmaxx is 999 dollars in the US and 1099 quid over here. Traxxas are scalping us big time. If this appears over here for 860 quid it'll be a serious contender.
  19. How do you figure? It's the equivalent of 783 quid in the US. It's objectively bleeding expensive over here. Not subjectively. 😂
  20. Gussy up the ol'girl, slap some fresh paint and some unnecessary ally bits on it and increase the already exorbitant cost for a truck that blows it's tremendously unsatisfactory ESC 3 runs in. 🥰 Ah, Traxxas.
  21. It amazes me that no one imports Redcat, also that we have to wait for even more obscure brands to appear over here with the same cars. Strikes me that someone would make a killing doing it, decent budget cars are everywhere but there is no doubt that redcats are some of the most well presented and thought about. Yeah the chassis on the vigilante is two pieces by the looks of it, at least it was when the Redcat engineer was chatting on the podcast I was watching.
  22. Oh, and it's truck shaped, like a truck. Massive advantage over the Xmaxx. 😂 Also the stock motor mount can straight accept a 56mm can motor without modification. Drivetrain is rated for 8s+ so might be suitable for 12s with a fat can motor.
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