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adding weight....yes or no? (crawler)


Lone-wolf

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From my testing, its good to add weight low down, unsprung. Some say rotational mass is a bad idea, but my wheels are weighted and it seems to work well. I am running 1.55s though so who knows. Beef tubes in the axles, weighted billet wheels, and hub weights will get you going

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Ive added wheel weights to my DC1  1 and a 1/4 strip per wheel works out at 75 grams plus the metal beadlocks 

I used these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IJFR6YQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I’ve added 60g each brass hubs to my Sendero wheels and it made an appreciable difference in side-hilling ability. 
 

Krystals Venture chassis has brass tubes inside the axles and I can’t believe how stable she is with the big Tonka steel body up top. 
 

I’ve been advised to avoid rotational weight and that hubs, knuckles, axle tubes and pumpkins are better to add mass to than wheels. 

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5 hours ago, tomr said:

You’ve got a few trail rigs why don’t you test it for yourself .

Coukd be an interesting vid for ya channel 👍

Sounds like a good plan I can run the DC1 with stock wheels, then same track with weighted beadlocks, might just do that

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I added weight to my portal covers, that seemed to help a lot and was an easy way to avoid the wheels but be low down.

The rotational mass of wheel weights/hubs/heavy wheels going to make the motor and servo work harder, but if they're specced for it I don't see a problem. Certainly in a crawler where you're going a few mph.

Edited by JupiterTwo
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1 hour ago, Gaz! said:

Depends on the rig but yes, weight in the right place will be like jumping from vhs to dvd…..

 

but YOU will have to figure out where and how much to aid your driving style, I would make up a single gate course over a obstacle and do it first with no weight and so on, (that would be a good YouTube idea)

 

ive said this before many times but, a crawler is set to a factory feel/base line, it is NOT the only way it will drive! It’s alright folk saying how much weight and where it should be but that may not suit your driving style, that’s your journey to take should you wish. If they were all set up perfect then the aftermarket of hop ups and add-ones would seize to exist.

 

nobody is wrong with there answers but YOU have to find your sweet spot for it and when you do, you will know. :good:

Wow, Gaz that has to rank as one of THE top ten replies ever, very well said and extremely helpful, time to get busy making some gates

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Depending on how and what you want to drive. My comp rig has brass hubs and weights in the front end.  And just a little on the rear axle. It's down low and not crazy amounts. It runs 2.2 wheels and it's as light as I can get it.

So the small amount helds it handle everything. My trail rig has 0 added weights. And it handles everything well. 1.55 wheels. Scale built.  

My rock bouncer I'm building I will have to see if it needs any. Steel cage adds weight high up. Some might some to help even it out. 

 

Edited by Hell horn.
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1 hour ago, Hell horn. said:

Steel cage adds weight high up. So might some to help even it out.

Krystal handles surprisingly well on the Venture chassis with the stock brass axle tubes once I sorted out super heavy duty springing - considering her body and sprung weight is about 5kg…

Edited by walkbythesea
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