Eclipsed4ever Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 33 minutes ago, Redback said: So for slack steering the E clips always pop off the rubbish servo saver making it really weak, i glued my servo saver after giving up on loosing eclips and havent had a servo fail. This is the eclip im on about and it looks to be missing here. You can also try a servo saver arm but i found this was also to weak to move my large tires. Not surprised the rear cv snapped with brushless power, sorry to see it happen but i feel its going to be a weak point. Bbare in mind your putting tons more torque into these than they are designed to take, front not so much an issue as its pulling, but the rear pushing takes more loads. Yeah there's no clip on mine. I don't think it came with one. I'd say that's why my steering has always been particularly rubbish. Think I'll try gluing it. 1 minute ago, walkbythesea said: IMG_5371.MOV 132.54 MB · 1 download It won't load! The broken CV is a bit of art imitating life... I have the same problem on my full size from time to time. Rear CVs do take a lot of abuse compared to fronts. If I was bouncing on it I wouldn't of been surprised. As I had only just got going and had barely done anything though this one might of been a poor part to begin with. The other survived for the 10 minutes following in 3WD. Will see if I can blag another and try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 (edited) 8 minutes ago, Eclipsed4ever said: Yeah there's no clip on mine. I don't think it came with one. I'd say that's why my steering has always been particularly rubbish. Think I'll try gluing it. It won't load! The broken CV is a bit of art imitating life... I have the same problem on my full size from time to time. Rear CVs do take a lot of abuse compared to fronts. If I was bouncing on it I wouldn't of been surprised. As I had only just got going and had barely done anything though this one might of been a poor part to begin with. The other survived for the 10 minutes following in 3WD. Will see if I can blag another and try again. Yes theres no clip and it was 2nd hand so probably got lost on its first run. This is why the steering is garbage garenteed. Hopefully it was a poor part like you say, never had a cv go but ive still yet to lock the diffs can imagine they will snap with ease if i locked the diffs. With the wheel nuts, the serated ones are great but would still reccommend a dot of blue threadlock. As they dont have a nylon locking washer. What wheels are you using stock outlaw ones? they also came with a serated washer to lock the wheels and nuts better. Really happy to hear you enjoyed driving it and its performance, how much run time did you get from the 4000mha battery, and what kv is the motor please? Edited March 12, 2021 by Redback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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walkbythesea Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclipsed4ever Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 Videos look great @walkbythesea! Looks a pretty hardcore area you've got for it. 1 hour ago, Redback said: Yes theres no clip and it was 2nd hand so probably got lost on its first run. This is why the steering is garbage garenteed. Hopefully it was a poor part like you say, never had a cv go but ive still yet to lock the diffs can imagine they will snap with ease if i locked the diffs. With the wheel nuts, the serated ones are great but would still reccommend a dot of blue threadlock. As they dont have a nylon locking washer. What wheels are you using stock outlaw ones? they also came with a serated washer to lock the wheels and nuts better. Really happy to hear you enjoyed driving it and its performance, how much run time did you get from the 4000mha battery, and what kv is the motor please? I'm using 2 stock outlaw ones as I think the centres are pulled out the other 3. Also got 2 aluminium beadlock wheels for the rear. Need to look at getting some more wheels soon though, the hexes on the last 2 outlaw wheels are getting worse. Tempted to just glue the hex into the wheel, but I've already glued them to the shafts. I think I was out there for probably 30-40 minutes without any change in performance so I would think the battery has plenty in it yet. It started raining pretty heavy then so I come back in. It's the Absima 3241kV motor that came with the truck originally. I think I'm actually going to put the Absima ESC which came with it back in as well as there's something strange going on with the control with the Hobbywing one that's in there. The original Absima ESC always worked really well with the motor except the cogging, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 15 hours ago, Eclipsed4ever said: Looks a pretty hardcore area you've got for it. I see what you did there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 So I was having a problem yesterday with the battery tray location as the front wheels were hanging on it as it now protruded out of the body! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Running out of room to put it I’ve flipped it vertically and now have my full wheel clearance back 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 Good idea! seems to work well. Here is the UJ from the rear steel drive shaft after a over year of high torque driving. Worn out to the point of a failure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclipsed4ever Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 6 hours ago, walkbythesea said: I see what you did there... To be fair... that was just a happy accident 😛 Had another go today and the car still performed well. I have run into a couple of issues though. As @Redback said would happen, I managed to loose one of the grub screws from the rear CVD where there heat shrink slid off of it. I'm not sure if you know where I might be able to get a replacement from? I don't think it's a straight grub screw is it? It had a tapered down pin. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 14 minutes ago, Eclipsed4ever said: To be fair... that was just a happy accident 😛 Had another go today and the car still performed well. I have run into a couple of issues though. As @Redback said would happen, I managed to loose one of the grub screws from the rear CVD where there heat shrink slid off of it. I'm not sure if you know where I might be able to get a replacement from? I don't think it's a straight grub screw is it? It had a tapered down pin. The plastic ones should have some grubscrews that fit, i tend to canabalize the plastic ones for parts the metal ones spit out, i also used a bent nail to replace the pin on the lads UJ as didnt have any replacments, still running the bent nail lol. Got a photo of what is missing? Can try triple up the heat shrink 😉 so it doesnt slide off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 I use green locktite in mine, the strong stuff for cylinder head studs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, walkbythesea said: I use green locktite in mine, the strong stuff for cylinder head studs You can weld them in and they will still pop out. I'll be looking at a diffrent rear drive shaft and when i find it, I will be sure to advise, the issue with the outlaw rear shafts is they are long and very few companies make hardened driveshafts of 133mm+ The other issue as shown above is how they wear, using the longer metal UJ pin and the steel cup from the plastic shafts its a bit beefier, will post a photo in a bit to explain better. Your rockgarden is very hardcore, i would never put my outlaw in there, great test for durability, can hear the slipper working for you saving your drive line! That was a good choice if this is what your driving over! Love it mad lad! The g1 transmission does not have a slipper and i didnt want one for my design, as i know if it got bound down, i would snap cv/uj's on the steering like butter. @everclear1984 did you lock your rear diff when adding the rear steer? Just something to keep in mind there is no drive train protection and there is few failure points so the weakest link will always go first and that will be any joints with pins, plastic wheel hexes and wheels. What part is missing got a photo please? Edited March 13, 2021 by Redback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Next mission is to boil my tyres off the rims so I can get some weight in there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclipsed4ever Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 11 hours ago, Redback said: You can weld them in and they will still pop out. I'll be looking at a diffrent rear drive shaft and when i find it, I will be sure to advise, the issue with the outlaw rear shafts is they are long and very few companies make hardened driveshafts of 133mm+ The other issue as shown above is how they wear, using the longer metal UJ pin and the steel cup from the plastic shafts its a bit beefier, will post a photo in a bit to explain better. Your rockgarden is very hardcore, i would never put my outlaw in there, great test for durability, can hear the slipper working for you saving your drive line! That was a good choice if this is what your driving over! Love it mad lad! The g1 transmission does not have a slipper and i didnt want one for my design, as i know if it got bound down, i would snap cv/uj's on the steering like butter. @everclear1984 did you lock your rear diff when adding the rear steer? Just something to keep in mind there is no drive train protection and there is few failure points so the weakest link will always go first and that will be any joints with pins, plastic wheel hexes and wheels. What part is missing got a photo please? Yeah I already had the difflock in the rear when I added the rear steer. Maybe they won't be up to the stress. I'll try another set to see if it was just a bad one or not. The other side took some abuse when I carried on in 3WD so hopefully it was just a bad shaft. Looking where it's broke it's split the end off of the shaft where the joint is formed. If the joints prove to be just not up to the task then I'll just leave the rear steer off. As good as it is reliability is more important. The pin which goes through the shaft on the male end is what's missing. I think it's a 4mm thread, but goes down to a straight 3mm pin which goes through the gearbox output shaft. Have you tried a bolt going all the way through with a nyloc on the other side? I think there's clearance there for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 Search eBay for “driveshaft pin” Took me ages to find out what they were called! 🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclipsed4ever Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 (edited) 8 hours ago, walkbythesea said: Search eBay for “driveshaft pin” Took me ages to find out what they were called! 🤣 Ah yes... I couldn't find them either. Easy when you know how... although I got impatient earlier and drilled the output shaft out to 3mm. I've just put a bolt through it for today with a double nut on and actually it's performed very well. It's a bit crude but no sign of coming undone. My main concern is whether there's enough meat left on the shaft to take the strain but so far so good. Had probably an hour in the mud earlier and except for the wheels falling off, it went very well. I've now glued up the servo saver and my god isn't the steering better! Even with the lack luster original servo on there, it already performs so much better. I do mean to try it with the new 17kg servo on and see what happens but I've not got round to swapping them yet. Here's the lad driving. Not quite got the finesse on the controls yet but he's getting the hang of it now that it's so much easier (and more enjoyable) to drive. Edited March 14, 2021 by Eclipsed4ever 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted March 16, 2021 Author Share Posted March 16, 2021 Looks like its running really well, glad to hear is more enjoyable thats the biggest reason to make this mod imo, if its not fun make it fun right? Sorry didnt get a pic intime for your grub issues, i hope to cover it in the rebuild. Looks like you got a good solution is that a bolt and 2 nuts? Are any of you attending SST with your outlaws @walkbythesea saw you post in there... I'm sending the outlaws into the King of the Mallet challenge signed the lad up also, as think the outlaw will be ideal for this style of race. I'm sure people will be running wraiths or ryfts be good to see how the el cheapo outlaw compares, as my outlaw is currently dead, i was thinking of doing a rebuild on video to get it ready for the race :). Basically a full R2 rebuild with some additional mods to beef it up for the event. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 Hoping to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclipsed4ever Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 On 16/03/2021 at 11:24, Redback said: Looks like its running really well, glad to hear is more enjoyable thats the biggest reason to make this mod imo, if its not fun make it fun right? Sorry didnt get a pic intime for your grub issues, i hope to cover it in the rebuild. Looks like you got a good solution is that a bolt and 2 nuts? Are any of you attending SST with your outlaws @walkbythesea saw you post in there... I'm sending the outlaws into the King of the Mallet challenge signed the lad up also, as think the outlaw will be ideal for this style of race. I'm sure people will be running wraiths or ryfts be good to see how the el cheapo outlaw compares, as my outlaw is currently dead, i was thinking of doing a rebuild on video to get it ready for the race :). Basically a full R2 rebuild with some additional mods to beef it up for the event. Yeah it's been well worth spending the time on it. The new wheel nuts arrived today so I'm going to put the best set of wheels I have left on (hexes are worn on most of them) and see if they stop them persistently falling off. Some new driveshaft pins have now arrived so I'll fit them to the front shaft where I still have my cut down bolt fitted! Yes it's just an M3 bolt with 2 normal nuts fitted. Survived a couple of hours so far without issue. The other pins in the shaft are all covered with heat shink. Superglued in the little cross pin as well which tried to escape once. It's like they just don't want to be in there! What's the SST? So I have another question... my radio distance seems (to me) to be awful. Much further than maybe 10m and the car starts to lose signal and comes to a halt. What sort of range should I expect? I have a 'Flysky FS-GT2' transmitter and the receiver which came with the truck - can't remember what it is. The transmitter has a broken plastic outside to the aerial but the actual antenna seems to be undamaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 SST = Southern Scale Trail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 4 minutes ago, Eclipsed4ever said: So I have another question... my radio distance seems (to me) to be awful. Much further than maybe 10m and the car starts to lose signal and comes to a halt. What sort of range should I expect? I have a 'Flysky FS-GT2' transmitter and the receiver which came with the truck - can't remember what it is. The transmitter has a broken plastic outside to the aerial but the actual antenna seems to be undamaged. That is shocking and I'd say that something is broken - the stock Etronix radio that came in my Outlaw is good for over 100m, TBH I can't see the car very well in the landscape I drive it over at that range anyway. I also have a DumboRC unit that has a range of 500m!!! 10m is totally pants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclipsed4ever Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 55 minutes ago, walkbythesea said: That is shocking and I'd say that something is broken - the stock Etronix radio that came in my Outlaw is good for over 100m, TBH I can't see the car very well in the landscape I drive it over at that range anyway. I also have a DumboRC unit that has a range of 500m!!! 10m is totally pants. The SST looks really good, fair play. I thought it was pretty poor... may have to look into replacing the TX & RX going forward. For just messing about in the garden it's just about good enough - for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkbythesea Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 2 minutes ago, Eclipsed4ever said: The SST looks really good, fair play. I thought it was pretty poor... may have to look into replacing the TX & RX going forward. For just messing about in the garden it's just about good enough - for now. Do look at DumboRC on banggood, my 6 channel that I use with the rear steer was under £30 delivered and really is awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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