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Team Associated Rival MT10 owners.


Oh How Original

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Lost rear drive at the end of a session yesterday.  Rear wheels still contra-rotate and no nasty noises so I think the actual diff is ok?  Hoping the pinion has just come loose on the centre drive shaft.  Anyone stripped the back end down yet - looks like I will have to take quite a few parts off to isolate it.

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You can remove all of the rear suspension and bulkhead/ diff housing in one, 6 or 8 screws. The rear diff will be contained within the assembly, which sandwiches the centre diff  between it and the chassis.

 

The rear is driven by a cog screwed on the centre diff output. On ours, the screw was secure but the cog still had a little end float, which I took up with a very thin washer. No loss of drive though.

 

This little truck has proven to very robust for us!

 

Best of luck.

 

Steve

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On 18/04/2021 at 23:17, SWF said:

Hi

 

When bashing about with the MT10 and our Kronos, the MT10 just seems lazy to apply power? 
 

Once it decides that you have pulled the trigger, it goes very well, it just lacks that instant “punch” that the Kronos has. We only use 4s on the Kronos, and this is evident on the MT10 with 2s or 3s.

 

There are no adjustments on the Reedy ESC so was thinking that a change to a MAX10 might be the solution?

 

Any thoughts?

 

Cheers

 

Steve

 

Hmm, I'm not sure what to say mate. That has not been my experience of the stock truck at all.

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On 18/04/2021 at 23:17, SWF said:

Hi

 

When bashing about with the MT10 and our Kronos, the MT10 just seems lazy to apply power? 
 

Once it decides that you have pulled the trigger, it goes very well, it just lacks that instant “punch” that the Kronos has. We only use 4s on the Kronos, and this is evident on the MT10 with 2s or 3s.

 

There are no adjustments on the Reedy ESC so was thinking that a change to a MAX10 might be the solution?

 

Any thoughts?

 

Cheers

 

Steve

It’s only running a little 3650 motor if you want a little more kick try dropping a 3660/3665 in with similar Kv , you’ll need a 5mm bore pinion though 👍

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Hi

 

The lazy pickup was sorted by a strip down and re-build.

 

As mentioned above, both front and rear diff drives had end float which was fixed with thin washers. The front bulkhead had wear around the input shaft bearings causing slop and then 3 of the 8 wheel bearings were seized.

 

All running smoothly now!

 

Fitted a Max10 SCT esc now, so we have better control of the brakes.

 

Thinking about a 3660 motor, the chassis has a recess to suit, but not sure what Kv to go for?

 

This takes a beating in the hands of my son and other than one of the original front arms and a shock shaft, has been solid.

 

Cheers

 

Steve

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Looks like I've just broke the rival mt10 its making a horrible grinding noise.

Not sure what it is...maybe the diff as a newbie am trying to find info on where to start stripping it down?

Nothing on YouTube sadly. 

16217017892468694129642265416658.jpg

Edited by Tabbie
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Hi

 

Check the mesh of the pinion/spur gear.

 

It can move in an impact as it is held in place by the spring loaded screw. Ours has moved once, due to a crash.

 

Try dis-engaging the motor pinion from the spur gear completely first, then check if the front/rear and centre diff’s are OK.

 

If you hold the input to front/rear diff, then rotate a wheel, the opposite wheel will spin smoothly in the opposite direction. The viscosity of the fluid in the diff will present a little force required to turn the wheels.

 

For the centre diff, hold the spur gear, and turning both front or rear wheels will make the other pair turn in the opposite direction.

 

This should confirm which, if any, of the diff’s are out.

 

We have had a few bearings seize after getting wet, so it could be that, though they don’t make a noise once seized? RCbearings are your friend.

 

Pinion mesh is my guess!

 

Good luck!

 

Steve

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Thank you for your advice its appreciated. 

Looks like the spur gear is damaged,  as a complete novice I can not find any info online on how to replace the spur gear.

Am guessing the complete rear needs to be removed,  am worried I'll mess it up big time. Even YouTube has let me down with no videos. 

20210523_090351.jpg

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Hi

 

You need to remove the rear suspension as an assembly, it sandwiches the centre diff between it and the chassis. The spur is part of the centre diff, secured by 4 screws.

 

Remove the wheelie bar and tail lights, then follow the manual.


Good luck!

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3 hours ago, CUPRABullet said:

I've stripped the rear end off mine as I think the rear diff has broken somewhere - got a rebuild kit ordered from Wheelspin Models.  Here's a link to the manual and I found enlarging the page made it a lot easier to see what's what.

Rival MT10 Manual.indd (associatedelectrics.com)

Ordered a new spur gear from modelsport,  I have a habit of stripping things down and then being clueless how they go back together.  I shall ladel everything and take pictures as I go.

I've hardly used the rival mt10 strangely the big rock gets a beating and nothing breaks.

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6 hours ago, CUPRABullet said:

Still waiting on a rear diff kit from Wheelspin to fix mine...

I haven't the time to fix the rival mt10, it'll  be afew weeks.  Hopefully your kit will arrive soon and you then can give me some tips. 

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Hello

 

We have torn a tyre, on a piece of re-bar, it’s toast!

 

The standard wheels/tyres are not available in UK, can anybody recommend an aftermarket set that work on the MT10?
 

Cheers

 

Steve

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If mainly offroad use, how about some MX28 Badlands on the Raid wheels?  Removeable hex wheels mean you can use them as they come on the MT10 (12mm hex) and then with just a hex change - 6 or 7 quid, you can have some 17mm hex wheels for a future model.  I really like that idea, being able to use them on various different trucks without having to buy multiple sets of wheels/tyres.

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Well, an update on my rear diff rebuild...  Schoolboy error to say the least!  Having stripped the back end to get the diff out, stripped that and found nothing broken, it was only when I put it back together and put the left rear wheel back on I realised it had stripped the hex drive in the wheel.  So the loss of rear drive was just the driveshaft spinning all along - doh!   I just jumped to the conclusion of a diff problem too quickly.

Will take note of Bertberr's comment about the other wheels (and keep my wheelnuts tight and checked...)

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On 04/06/2021 at 16:48, CUPRABullet said:

Well, an update on my rear diff rebuild...  Schoolboy error to say the least!  Having stripped the back end to get the diff out, stripped that and found nothing broken, it was only when I put it back together and put the left rear wheel back on I realised it had stripped the hex drive in the wheel.  So the loss of rear drive was just the driveshaft spinning all along - doh!   I just jumped to the conclusion of a diff problem too quickly.

Will take note of Bertberr's comment about the other wheels (and keep my wheelnuts tight and checked...)

Snap thought I'd stripped my spur gear but nope it was the hex on a wheel.

Have you replaced the complete wheel set?

If so what with please?

20210611_185339.jpg

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Hiya - I replaced the rear wheels with these (as per Bertberr's recommendation)  PROLINE BADLANDS MX28 2.8" All ATModels (align-trex.co.uk) - fit fine, maybe a few mm narrower track but don't see that as an issue.  Have also invested in some threadlock to put on the axles!  Also found that I had put the rear diff in the wrong way round so the front wheels were trying to go forward and the rears backwards!  Wondered why it would roll across the garage floor...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fixed the Rival mt10 today replaced the wheels with proline badlands and yep the spur gear was toast so actually surprised myself how straight forward it was to fit. Winner winner chicken dinner....

Have a new respect for the Rival after I took it out for a bash taking 10ft grass embankment jumps with easy. 

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4 hours ago, CUPRABullet said:

Did the Badlands tyres make much difference to the handling (not had a chance to run mine yet)?  They look grippier than the Associated tyres.

Lots more grip and they look better also which is a plus point. Handling wise nope it still handles like a school bus, great fun tho. My body shell is now looking scruffy but it's definitely getting used.

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1 hour ago, CUPRABullet said:

Have you tried using threadlock on the wheel nuts?  I have put it on mine but not had a chance to actually run the thing yet unfortunately.  

I didn't want to use thread lock really as ideally I could use the badlands on other trucks but if it keeps loosening the wheel nuts I'll have to.

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