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Hobao Hyper VS(e) Owners Thread


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On 18/07/2020 at 20:15, Rixsta said:

Yeah, got those alloy parts from eBay, total trash, so that was the best place for them. Coggan parts are amazing, I'd fully recommended them.

 

 

haha awesome, i reckon this hobby is gonna get a lot more expensive soon  :P

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Hi guys. 

 

I'm going to be ordering a VSe roller kit soon. 

 

Beyond the usual stuff associated with ARTR stuff, like rebuild diffs with oil, shocks, threadlock etc, is there anything I worth upgrading from the get go while I have it in bits? 

 

I'll be getting the 7075 chassis if I can find one, and I like the double rear chassis brace mod I saw earlier in the thread. Hinge pin holders? Hubs? The lightweight centre diff cups looked a good price too? 

 

Cheers. 

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2 hours ago, TheCatajig said:

Hi guys. 

 

I'm going to be ordering a VSe roller kit soon. 

 

Beyond the usual stuff associated with ARTR stuff, like rebuild diffs with oil, shocks, threadlock etc, is there anything I worth upgrading from the get go while I have it in bits? 

 

I'll be getting the 7075 chassis if I can find one, and I like the double rear chassis brace mod I saw earlier in the thread. Hinge pin holders? Hubs? The lightweight centre diff cups looked a good price too? 

 

Cheers. 

Hi, If you get chance try and get the pro version of the roller (euroRC).  The first things I would change on the standard roller would be the shock towers (especially rear) and get the cnc machined front and rear lower arm holders as I think these are plastic on the standard roller.  

 

http://eshop.hobao-racing.com/products/productdetail/OP-0104+VS+GRAPHITE+REAR+SHOCK+TOWER-+4MM/part_number=OP-0104/16015.0.1.1.1130704.1146924.1140186.0.0?pp=48&

http://eshop.hobao-racing.com/products/productdetail/OP-0114+VS+CNC+ALUM+FRONT+LOWER+ARM+HOLDER+-+FR/part_number=OP-0114/16015.0.1.1.1130704.1146924.1140186.0.0?pp=48&http://eshop.hobao-racing.com/products/productdetail/OP-0115+VS+CNC+ALUM+REAR+LOWER+ARM+HOLDER+-+RF./part_number=OP-0115/16015.0.1.1.1130704.1146924.1140186.0.0?pp=48&

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18 hours ago, TheCatajig said:

Nice one thanks for the reply mate. 

 

I read aswell that some of the Hyper 8 parts are compatible too. Would that include the towers? Couple going cheap on ebay at the moment. 

Hi, I am not sure about cross compatibility with the Hyper 8.  If true I need to find some stuff too :)

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Nice one thanks for the reply mate. 
 
I read aswell that some of the Hyper 8 parts are compatible too. Would that include the towers? Couple going cheap on ebay at the moment. 

The 8 shocks are smaller, so when I had an 8 tower on the back of my VSE, it preloaded the shocks and the chassis wouldn’t bottom out. It worked okay but the even with the standard springs it was a LOT stiffer.


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  • 2 weeks later...
4 hours ago, Mark Lovell said:

Hi all,

 

just wondered if anybody knows if the hyper VS body shell fits a hyper 7 ? If so is it a straight fit no mods ? 
 

sorry if this has already been raised in this thread 👍

 

 

No won't fit a 7 without modding the 7's side guards

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Hi guys,

 

Hopefully getting one of these in the next few weeks. Thought id take a trip to pick it up personally with my daughter as she is off school and I am furloughed.

 

Anyone know of a place that is actually open i can visit to collect one of these?

 

I'm in Manchester but happy to drive a few miles to collect one.

 

Thanks.

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People running x2 3s, how did u get the batteries in? Just tried to fit x2 5200 3s and the velcro aint long enough but battery fits in tray.

 

Simple case of longer velcro? :)

 

 Trying on a VTe 

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On 07/08/2020 at 10:42, Mark Lovell said:


okay thanks for the reply 👍 would VS side guards fit the hyper 7 chassis or would you need to drill holes in chassis etc? 

 

You'd prob be better off drilling the VS side guards to match the 7s mounts. Personally in the past I've just fitted a thinner shell, marked the 7 guards inline and then cut them. Others have heated and bent.

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3 hours ago, Mattcity said:

e4735e891b83191aec2de8d639f24be6.jpg
Anybody interested in this essential upgrade, ordered 2no by mistake.
CNC Front Arm Holder.

Offer on here before selling elsewhere.

£10 PayPal F&F inc delivery.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I'd put this in the for sale section, it'll get more views.

 

Also don't ask for PayPal Friends and Family, just add the fees to the cost.

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Hello! New VSE owner here. Recently picked up a barely used RTR kit for 250 bucks incl. batteries and charger (100 amps version). I love it so far, but have a few questions:

 

The car is bone stock RTR, with a 2000kV motor and a 14t pinion. I love the handling and acceleration but was not really blown away by the top speed to be honest, and think i will play around a bit with gearing. Ive ordered a set of pinions (15-19t) and will see what i can get out of it without overheating. How much is it reasonable to expect out of this setup really? Do you think it can handle a 19t pinion? 
Im running 4s by the way. 
 

I think i read somewhere that the 100 and 150 amp version have the same motor, but different escs. Anyone know anything about this? If so, would there be a noticable difference to my car if I were to upgrade to a 150 amp esc, but still keep it at 4s batteries?  Would like to avoid buying new batteries for now. 

 

 

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On 14/08/2020 at 15:17, HobHypVSE said:

Hello! New VSE owner here. Recently picked up a barely used RTR kit for 250 bucks incl. batteries and charger (100 amps version). I love it so far, but have a few questions:

 

The car is bone stock RTR, with a 2000kV motor and a 14t pinion. I love the handling and acceleration but was not really blown away by the top speed to be honest, and think i will play around a bit with gearing. Ive ordered a set of pinions (15-19t) and will see what i can get out of it without overheating. How much is it reasonable to expect out of this setup really? Do you think it can handle a 19t pinion? 
Im running 4s by the way. 
 

I think i read somewhere that the 100 and 150 amp version have the same motor, but different escs. Anyone know anything about this? If so, would there be a noticable difference to my car if I were to upgrade to a 150 amp esc, but still keep it at 4s batteries?  Would like to avoid buying new batteries for now. 

 

 

wow that is a awesome deal you got there, yeh the esc the 150 amp one can do 6s batterys, a 3rd more voltage to the motor  :D

 

pretty sure you could run 4s on the 6s esc, u will get the same speed though untill you get 6s batteries and i think the pinion gear size on the 6s version is different and aye they both have same motor  :)

Edited by Yrkoon
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9 hours ago, Yrkoon said:

wow that is a awesome deal you got there, yeh the esc the 150 amp one can do 6s batterys, a 3rd more voltage to the motor  :D

 

pretty sure you could run 4s on the 6s esc, u will get the same speed though untill you get 6s batteries and i think the pinion gear size on the 6s version is different and aye they both have same motor  :)

Personally I think you should stick with the 100amp ESC for now.  I believe they are the same 2000KV motor.  I have the 150 and I bought 1 6s lipo, it is so fast it's ridiculous!!!  Definitely too much for a track IMO.  You can tweak the ESC for less aggressive punch etc, but its still stupidly fast :)  Good fun, but you will go back to 4s or adjust 6s settings to be manageable.   I would invest in other areas first.  I would change the front and rear lower arm hangers to CNC versions, along with the rear shock tower :)  Enjoy the new car though !!

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Good advice above.  For 4s running (plenty for a 1/8 buggy) then I find (for bashing) ~2300kv gives a good turn of speed with ok run times.  2650kv motor extreme speeds but poor run times.  The only reason i'd run higher voltage is to run a lower Kv motor for longer run times, however the increased torque (not needed) and bigger lipos make it unnecessary for me.  

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Thank you all for replying! Yea i feel like 4s is definitely enough for me for the moment, pretty new to the hobby and all new to 1/8 scale. 
 

22 minutes ago, capri-boy said:

Good advice above.  For 4s running (plenty for a 1/8 buggy) then I find (for bashing) ~2300kv gives a good turn of speed with ok run times....


So this kV/gearing thing is something im trying to get a grasp on. Say if the motor dimensions are the same, would a 2000kV motor with a 16t pinion perform similarly to a 2300kV motor with a 14t pinion, rest of the setup beeing identical? If my understanding is correct they should both have roughly the same final drive ratio, but what about torque/acceleration/temperatures? Similar or would one run cooler/better than the other?

 

1 hour ago, morgan999 said:

...I would change the front and rear lower arm hangers to CNC versions, along with the rear shock tower :)  Enjoy the new car though !!


Thanks for the recommendations, ill look into it! 
First outing i already broke the brackets that holds the rear wing (bad cartwheel on concrete, my bad). Manufactured some new ones from 10mm aluminium piece i had, should hold up! Before i got in to the hobby i didnt realise that only half the fun is to drive, the rest is tinkering and upgrading you car(s)!

4789DFE4-EB9A-4657-B383-BCA82D3D3054.jpeg

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That's the difficulty - nothings perfect IRL - but in my experience BL motors have a 'sweet spot' - where they run best - overgearing  a motor causes them to run hot, but equally well so does undergearing - because you spend more time near WOT (wide open throttle) ie at the top of the motors rev range.

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After running for awhile check your motor temp, if its ok then you deffo have room to go up 1 or 2 more teeth on the pinion, maybe 3.

 

From my experiance also runing on any type of grass adds heat, maybe run 16t on road and go back down one or two for grass running

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Alright thanks for replying! Im anxiously awaiting my pinion gear set that is en route (15t-19t). Should hopefully be here during this week. But how do i know what is too hot, or just ok hot? Should i be able to have my finger om the motor for 1 second without burning? 5 seconds? I dont have an ir thermometer, just the kitchen turkey-stick-type :)

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On 24/08/2020 at 22:04, HobHypVSE said:

Alright thanks for replying! Im anxiously awaiting my pinion gear set that is en route (15t-19t). Should hopefully be here during this week. But how do i know what is too hot, or just ok hot? Should i be able to have my finger om the motor for 1 second without burning? 5 seconds? I dont have an ir thermometer, just the kitchen turkey-stick-type :)

 

laser temp guns, i use one that is tiny, just point it at something and you get a temp reading  :)

 

something like this https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-pro-series-tools-temp-driver/rc-car-products/394614

 

this is what i used to use and still have https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/74151

 

edit: oh not laser but infra red  :)

Edited by Yrkoon
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Does anyone know if the truggy shock towers can be installed on to the VSe ? I was planning on getting the VSe roller, putting on the truggy towers so i can have the 4 posts to mount a rally shell and run it as a rally car conversion.

 

I've seen people just drill in the shock tower but if theres a better way i like to try that

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