Speedytriple

Thanks guys. I did think that the other day but on closer inspection decided it wasn’t. I’ll check again later.

Update to the Enduro. New body, Yeah racing driveshafts - had to shorten the outer sleeve on the front as it was a little long and stopping full compression. Fastrax Brass C hubs and carriers. Annoyingly will have to change front bumper as the wheels hit it on full lock. Added a pic of more of the fleet. Hobao Hyper VS Pro (won courtesy of Hobby comps) Daughters FTX Vantage, converted into Carnage with 17mm wheel adaptors and wheels.

Yeah probably help. do you happen to know what size standard hex is? I’ve seen 8mm available from Samix (if we can get that in UK) but probably not really worth it if standard is 6mm or something. cheers.

Thanks fella. Just because the rear wheels now catch the shell. I could perhaps space the wheels out a bit more, but the 6 bolt hex thingys seem to have a slightly odd size on those steelies.

Cheers guys. Few issues with things touching the body and steering link hitting shock springs. just waiting on some longer steering plates which should stop that and the cab only body should sort out the rear end. Front driveshaft hits the battery tray too so could do with somewhere else to locate it. Hopefully getting a 3D printer off the Mrs for my 50th in a few weeks so should be able to make something (if I can work out how to use it) 😂

This is my Element build. Not quite finished, but nearly. Rock Pirates Chassis rails Artful Dodgers SOA conversion JConcepts Power Wagon body (Soon to change to Proline Cab only Power Wagon Brushed Hobbywing 1080 Holmes Hobby 550 12t Crawlermaster Sport AliExpress Steelies with AliEx Rubber Yeah Racing diff guards Hard Plastic bits

Thanks guys. Much appreciated.

I’ve got an Element Enduro Builders kit 2 that I’m awaiting a few bits for.. hard plastics, Rock Pirates Interceptor chassis etc and I want to paint up a cab only body. it seems only off the shelf ones are cliffhanger and power wagon. looking for inspiration. thanks.

Cheers fella. Good shout. rig looks awasome. incidentally as part of my build I’m considering moving the battery. Which is a better location for an LCG either on the side skid or the front location as now but lowered a little (if possible) thanks.

Cheers guys.

Hi guys. I’m starting a bit of an LCG build with mu enduro builders kit 2. I have a Rock Pirates Interceptor chassis on its way to me. Have mounted SOA with Artful Dodgers kit and the next thing I wanted to do was fit a cab only body. I was wondering how you guys attach the rear of the body with a cab only rig? front is easy using body pins as normal, however is there a way you guys do the rears? Rock pirates do a hardline rear bed that can be used however this isn’t cheap then add a load of shipping cost (From US) and it soon becomes expensive. also adds more rearward weight that I don’t want. cheers.

Cheers guys. The pro version comes with those as std.

So, took the spur gear off today and spun the motor by hand. A little resistance but easy to turn. good start turned the wheels with no spur so obvs no motor interference- all drivetrain. Again a little bit of resistance but hardly any. still good. pop spur gear back on entire drivetrain feels tight again. it’s not like something is binding it just feels like there are brakes on a little or like you are acting against motor torque or something. Maybe it’s normal, but it feels like it wouldn’t really slowly descend on say a 30degree slope. motor is a Holmes Crawlermaster sport 12t if that helps. incidentally I have noticed the angles of the axles are a bit weird, front tipped down at the front and back ripped down at the rear. Is this normal? I have got the arrows lined up on the hub carriers but it looks a little odd. cheers guys.

Cheers guys.

Thanks fella Do I submerge the entire motor inc brushes in water and run it direct from battery? If so how long do I do it for? Thanks.

Ah ok. So heavier oil means more rear power and less front tyre ballooning. it also does seem that track racers seem to use thinner centre diff oil. I guess that’s to get a more even F/R split?

Hi guys ive recently built the above with a HW BL1080 interestingly enough there seems to be so much drag on the motor that I don’t think a drag brake is even necessary. on a steep decline the truck won’t roll under its own weight. nothing is binding as truck runs free with no motor in. is this normal for these Holmes Hobbies crawlermaster motors? thanks.

Hi mate. I’ve been doing a bit of looking around and the centre diff oil weight recommendations seem all over the place. Some people seem to say 7000, others 30k, others 3k. 250k seems a lot compared to other people’s recommendations. I’m not doubting your knowledge, just wondering why so thick? I understand thicker oil puts more power to the rear but I don’t want it to just wheelie everywhere. when I opened the centre diff up (and topped it up with 250k) what was already in it was about 250 I’d say. thanks.

wow. Looks like they take a beating. 👍

I have to say they do seem very nicely made. Much more nicely built than my Typhon. Typhon seems very toughly made but VS seems to be built with more finesse if you know what I mean. The Typhon seems more of a hammer whereas the VS seems more of a precision instrument. I may be talking bollox as I’ve not run it yet and it may explode the first time I take it out. 😂

Thanks guys. I think it’s a fluted chassis (maybe 7075 not sure) carbon rear shock tower - not sure why not both. Carbon centre diff brace. There’s also a new VS2 which appears the same as the standard VS but has pillowball front hubs. not sure why no CNC front knuckles just rears. Same strangeness with just carbon rear shock tower? was the rear end a weak point?

Thanks chaps. It’s brand new fella so bearings will be good. any idea what weight shock oil is a good all rounder for the VS? thanks.

Thanks fella. Any advice what weights to use for in which diffs? cheers

Evening all, Thanks to hobby comps I’ve managed to score a Hyper VS Pro roller. I was wondering if any of you guys with experience with the VS have any tips to do before it’s run, like change/replace/add any grease, oil to diffs, shock oil etc. I’m very anal with my cars and really look after them so would like to get it up to scratch before the first run. wont be using for any hard bashing but will be running on fields, gravel BMX tracks and in the woods. Smallish jumps (not skate park sending) thanks guys.

Selling my Typhon. Pretty much as it came out of the box. run about 3 times, last time it got a little dusty and went through a couple of muddy puddles. cleaned straight away. few scratches on the chassis and body drywall taped and shoe goo’d on inside otherwise standard apart from twin fan on Motor. just won a Hyper VS which I prefer TBH so selling the Typhon. ideally to be collected but maybe can come to arrangement. £370. ready to go just needs battery. cheers.