TRX Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 53 minutes ago, Redback said: 2. Lipo will help with the motor cogging along with reducing the timing and increasing the acceleration. C. This is the ESC that comes in the truck.https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-photon-2-1w-45a-splashproof-brushless-esc-ftx-spec/rc-car-products/437857 Hi Redback thanks for your post. The ESC in the Carnage 2.0, might have changed?? There is no fan, it has a Tamiya connector, 1 capacitor. The manual talks of 2 ESCs and I am hoping it is the TB-60060, which would be good for brushed motors and up to 60A continuous current when going forward. The link you supplied, shows a slightly different external aspect of the ESC and seems to have different specs. TRX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Yes thats the brushed version, i was replying to the post regarding the brushless one sorry my confusion. Brushed ESC for the carnage.https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-60a-brushed-waterproof-speed-control/rc-car-products/447876 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRX Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 2 hours ago, Stormbringer said: put steering trim back to middle then move the servo horn round a spline on the servo Ok thanks, will have to learn how to do that though. Being completely new, I need to learn how to identify the parts and what purchase the tools. What would you suggest for the tools? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRX Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Just now, Redback said: Yes thats the brushed version, i was replying to the post regarding the brushless one sorry my confusion. Brushed ESC for the carnage.https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-60a-brushed-waterproof-speed-control/rc-car-products/447876 spot on. Ok so at least I know what I have. so if they call it a "Brushed" ESC, does that mean it cannot be used with a brushless motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 to remove the servo arm/horn its usually a small star screwdriver but it could be an allen screw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRX Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 1 hour ago, Redback said: 2. Lipo will help with the motor cogging along with reducing the timing and increasing the acceleration if you have a programming card or move to a longer motor. B. 2mm and 2.5mm hex driver, maybe a 1.5mm hex for the pinion depending what one you choose. C. This is the ESC that comes in the truck.https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-photon-2-1w-45a-splashproof-brushless-esc-ftx-spec/rc-car-products/437857 D. Most 1/10 scale motors will fit, eg hobbywing ezrun 3652 the 36 is motor diameter and the 52 is can length so is 520 length can, you can probably fit upto a 560 length can in. E. Radio swaps simple, just take out the reciver and put in your new one. gonna bookmark your answer. thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=28765https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=28766https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-box-spanner/rc-car-products/11847 Worked well for me, nice to keep in your pocket when out trailing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 I use this 1 as its got 7 heads https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=39330 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRX Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 16 minutes ago, Redback said: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=28765https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=28766https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-box-spanner/rc-car-products/11847 Worked well for me, nice to keep in your pocket when out trailing. 2 minutes ago, Stormbringer said: I use this 1 as its got 7 heads https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=39330 Thanks guys, much appreciated for these link. Saves a lot of time. The "Brushed" ESC, does that mean it can't run Brushless motors or does the title refer to the innards of the ESC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 56 minutes ago, TRX said: Thanks guys, much appreciated for these link. Saves a lot of time. The "Brushed" ESC, does that mean it can't run Brushless motors or does the title refer to the innards of the ESC? Correct, some escs can do brushed and brushless motors, eg the castle sidewinder 4 or mamba x otherwise they only do the motors they are made for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_01 Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 2 hours ago, wateroftyne said: Thanks, Steve. A couple of daft questions if you don't mind... Did you just re-use the existing screws? If I lie the car on its back while I do this, will everything pretty much stay in place during the work..? Thanks so much. Chuckle - I had exactly the same q's myself. I used the same screws - it seems to be stable, and no - nothing fell out (I think all the other suspension bits held it there!) Before hand I bought these - just in case. Ended up using these to fix the bumper to the frame extension https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A6ED8MM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07JW9LRSV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Having done it, and also had to rebuild one of the suspension arms after a crash, I feel a bit more confident now. I could even imagine replacing the whole chassis if needed I took a million photos as I went just so I could refer back in case...... Good luck Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 3 hours ago, wateroftyne said: Thanks - that sounds like a bigger job than what @lennylogknob and @Jens suggested...? Hi m8 I'm new to the hobby too and last week I did almost the very same as your doing now by removing the front end off the car I can tell you its REALLY not that big of a job When I looked at it first I thought OMG This is brain surgery but once I undone the 4 screws pulled the front section off (bit if a wiggly) it was off . Once you take that off then you can cut what you need . The hardest part I thought was putting the front end back on as you have to hold up the car push the front end back in to place while holding the prop shaft in line with the back drive /wheels. It's easy to do . Just fiddly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRX Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 1 hour ago, Redback said: Correct, some escs can do brushed and brushless motors, eg the castle sidewinder 4 or mamba x otherwise they only do the motors they are made for. Ok, so that means: 1. the 60A on this, is money wasted as the 45A would have done 2. should I wish to upgrade, I would need an "ESC+motor" combo (incidently, what do you think of this : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GoolRC-S3650-4300KV-Brushless-Motor-60A-ESC-and-Program-Card-Combo-Set-J3U5/402552142364?hash=item5db9fa3a1c:g:v4cAAOSwUu5frhQi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 3 hours ago, Steve_01 said: Hi I did it the other way round - and needed to put the ridges off. Photo attached. Not the neatest job but it seems faily secure. Steve I would go with just cutting it like this and fitting it rather than cutting it in half they way you thought you was to do . . If you undo the 4 screws with the car upside down it will all stay in one place as there 4 screws on the other side you have to undo also its need to fit into a small channel as well and drive shaft . So it will all stay in place steve01 has the right idea I'd say as its stronger repair. I'm keeping this idea In mind as one the holes on my carnage is broken so I guess I'll be doing the same soon. Thanks . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 (edited) About that front bumper riping out the screws from the main plate... I did this modification quite some time ago and it is still doing its job after MANY bumps and crashes... You can see on the picture from today how beat up is this alu plate today... i am sure that i would break about a dozen bumpers and few chassis plates without this modification. All you need is a piece of aluminium sheet metal (1mm) and some basic metal working skills. I recommend longer screws for the diff housing. You cut it to desired shape and bend it on the front to match the counture of the bumber. Then some additional screws into the bumber and it is done, half an hour of work... Edited January 10, 2021 by zlab 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 26 minutes ago, TRX said: Ok, so that means: 1. the 60A on this, is money wasted as the 45A would have done 2. should I wish to upgrade, I would need an "ESC+motor" combo (incidently, what do you think of this : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GoolRC-S3650-4300KV-Brushless-Motor-60A-ESC-and-Program-Card-Combo-Set-J3U5/402552142364?hash=item5db9fa3a1c:g:v4cAAOSwUu5frhQi It might be ok, maybe a bit high kv, I cant really comment as I only use brand name motors eg hobbywing, tekin, castle etc, from uk based shops to ensure warrenty and good customer service / support. Im sure they work just fine, its just about preference, I rather spend that little extra for peace of mind rather than saving a few bob and battling ebay / sellers for help if things went awry. Yes your probably best with a combo whatever that might be. Usally cheaper than buying motor / esc seperate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRX Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 (edited) On 12/11/2020 at 20:54, James RC said: So I took it out on the dimly lit street outside my house (there's literally one single lamppost in the little hamlet where i reside). And my oh my I was not prepared for the ferocity of this lipo. The car is now a completely different animal and takes off like a rocketship. I think I flipped it a total of 4 times in the 10 minutes I was out there 😅 I'm going to need a much bigger area to test it out properly so i think a trip to my local abandoned car park is due this weekend. I think it's going to do about 50mph with this battery. That's if I can get to top speed without losing control of the bugger. It's an absolute beast now. I'm really happy with it & I look forward to reporting back here again after a proper run this weekend... Hopefully without news of any serious breakages 😋 Hi there Can I ask what ESC and motor combo that is? Is this the factory brushless combo or did you go aftermarket? Also, what do you think about fitting a 6-axis gyro-based stability management system? thanks Edited January 10, 2021 by TRX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 4 minutes ago, TRX said: Hi there Can I ask what ESC and motor combo that is? Is this the factory brushless combo or did you go aftermarket? Also, what do you think about fitting a 6-axis gyro-based stability management system? thanks @TRX: From looking at the picture it should be the stock brushless system. Same as mine (some time ago). To answer your older question about KB and FAQ: It's here! Some more resources: Parts List & exploded views: https://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/diagrams/FTX/Bugsta Parts List.pdf ( Very helpful when looking for parts and preparing a repair ) Manual: https://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/diagrams/FTX/Bugsta Brushless Manual.pdf ( It's for the Bugsta, but covers all 3 compatible models ). If you upgrade to brushless, you might want to consider a waterproof ESC. My son already ruined 2 ESCs going through puddles and mudholes. And they are so much fun to go through. 🙂 Recently I even bought a waterproof receiver housing. £7 for much less trouble... I never heard of an aftermarket stability system. Would love to know about it. I have one in my Traxxas Rustler and I love it. Works like an ESP system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 1 hour ago, TRX said: Hi there Can I ask what ESC and motor combo that is? Is this the factory brushless combo or did you go aftermarket? Also, what do you think about fitting a 6-axis gyro-based stability management system? thanks Not 6 axis but does the jobish.https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-csg-countersteer-gyro/rc-car-products/389547 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 16 hours ago, Redback said: Not 6 axis but does the jobish.https://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix-csg-countersteer-gyro/rc-car-products/389547 @Redback, @TRX: I liked the idea of also having a gyro in my son's Bugsta that works the same way as in my Rustler. So did some quick research and found this: https://www.skyrc.com/Accessory/GC301_Gyro It's pratically the same as the ETronix one. But the effect can be adjusted either by the trimmer or by using an additional receiver channel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 I have some spare helicopter tail gyros ive thought about experimenting with in car/truck steering so might get round to that soon as the above is basically that 🍻 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wateroftyne Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 (edited) All sorted! Edited January 21, 2021 by wateroftyne 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRX Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 On 01/01/2021 at 12:30, Ash1984 said: Afternoon all, Me and the boy have a Carnage and Torro, we've got the same problem on both cars and they're both two days old, two is the number! Please help? 1. Both are not that happy going into reverse, sometimes they will most the time they won't. 2. Both randomly won't beep once on turning on and the ESC light flashes red slowly and the car won't respond, the motors or ESC's are not hot. Sometimes they do this fresh from cold, sometimes they do it in a middle of run. I've been away from the forum for years, my son is now 13 and well into his new RC so want to keep the fire burning! Tempted to sell the FTX's and buy a pair of Arrma Granites for the better electronics and such! All the best and HAPPY NEW YEAR MUDDY FUDDERS Hi what you describe there, I have this on a brand new carnage 2.0 RTR. Contacted seller, they got in touch with FTX who identified a batch of dodgy ESCs. New one on order, FOC. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRX Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Right so rig is OEM Carnage 2.0 Brushe 550 60A ESC. Manual states it can run 2s and 3S lipo. But does this mean you need to run 60C 2s Lipo? I can't imagine a brushed motor pulling that much current. But please explain how you guys work out what battery to buy Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlab Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 C rating of the battery telly you the maximum current that can be safely drawn from the battery. Current [A] = Capacity [Ah] x C rating For example, if you have a 5000mAh (5Ah) battery with the 30C rating, this means that it can safely be loaded with 150A max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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