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What did you do to your model today?


stretch

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replaced a plug on an old ESC and motor combo for testing for a setup for my daughter, who has unexpectedly become interested in RC.  Got it working, all is looking good, just need the roller now.  Hopefully going to secure one of a nice guy here, let's see if she likes it.

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A New radio for the kyosho and my slowly growing collection of cars

 

Flysky Noble NB4 

 

absolutely loving this thing so far, build quality, accessibility, being able to throw it lefty, built in emulator so I’ve tried it out on VRC, get some finger training in

it feels fantastic in the hand and everything feels just right ergonomically, I’m most impressed 

 

had one issue in setting up what with all the updates to the firmware and to the rx but ironed that out with a quick forum search

 

still trying to get my hands on a couple of V2 receivers for back ups 

image.jpg

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Not today.  Late last night. Modded my team associated reflex to run a more interesting body.  

Cut back of body out. And made a plate for the bed. Going to spray the body too. Looking more fun now. Next job is different wheels for it. Something slightly bigger. 

IMG_20200214_203336.jpg

IMG_20200214_203339.jpg

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39 minutes ago, Paul Busby said:
2 hours ago, novamadcars said:
Just sanded down 6 dog bones for a repaint. 

What's the car and what paint are you using?

HPI rs4 3 nitro and I will be using high temp spray.

Only as I have some left after spraying some of my 1.1 VR6 engine parts.

Edited by novamadcars
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adjusted the diffs to run straight. Now they are bellow 0,05mm. It should be good enough [emoji3]20200216-110626.jpg
Care to give a very brief explanation of the process here, are you just using pressure to straighten things up or is here more going on?

Really wish I had got into precision machining and engineering when I was younger.
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@Paul Busby Honestly, no precision machining involved here. Factory diff casings are moulded quite out of tolerance, when i measured factory assebmled diff, the runout was more than 0.3mm!

I measure it and mark the spot where the high spot is. Then i just carefully remove some material with fine sandpaper and measure it again when assemled. Fine tuning with tigtening the screws to get it straight as possible.

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[mention=43432]Paul Busby[/mention] Honestly, no precision machining involved here. Factory diff casings are moulded quite out of tolerance, when i measured factory assebmled diff, the runout was more than 0.3mm!
I measure it and mark the spot where the high spot is. Then i just carefully remove some material with fine sandpaper and measure it again when assemled. Fine tuning with tigtening the screws to get it straight as possible.
More precision than me and my eyeballing [emoji38]
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2 minutes ago, Paul Busby said:

More precision than me and my eyeballing emoji38.png

Well i is never to late. I went to school for an electronic engineer, but because of the nature of the work i had to get a lot of mechanical knowledge. In the era of the internet it is relatively easy to learn the theory, then it's just practice. On first steps you make a few expensive misstakes and that is how you learn 😁You learn how to rebuild the CNC mill spindle after you destroyed a set of 4 precision bearings, 300€ each 😂

 

About the diff, here you can see the front one, which still needs a bit of love with the sandpaper

 

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1 hour ago, zlab said:

adjusted the diffs to run straight. Now they are bellow 0,05mm. It should be good enough 😀20200216-110626.jpg

How true are the bearings as no doubt they won't be smack on? 

 

I'd say a few big jumps and the bearings would be as round as a marshmallow 😂😂😂

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@Alex97 well the bearings tolerance don't affect much here. The problem is the plastic diff casing which causes runout of the gear. Then you have problems when adjusting the gear mesh. Just right on one spot and then to tight when you rotate it for 180°

 

But if we talk about bearings in RC, i can see that they are all crap. All are made out of chinesium and in bad tolerances 😐

Edited by zlab
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Did some more building on my rock rey kit, made some nice progress, the only thing left to do is build the  shocks and paint the body and install the servo and do some little things.

 

But for now I have to wait for my alloy servo horn to arrive, then I can complete it.

 

49542875696_e456d357aa_c.jpg

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On 16/02/2020 at 14:05, zlab said:

@Alex97 well the bearings tolerance don't affect much here. The problem is the plastic diff casing which causes runout of the gear. Then you have problems when adjusting the gear mesh. Just right on one spot and then to tight when you rotate it for 180°

 

But if we talk about bearings in RC, i can see that they are all crap. All are made out of chinesium and in bad tolerances 😐

RC bearings are rubbish but if they don't turn true then the gears won't? 

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Ordered some more runtime ahead of a crawler meet at the Cheeswring on Bodmin moor on Sunday, should keep me going along with the other 9400mah between the other three LiPos - two 2200mah 3s and a 5000mah 2s.

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153739691809

 

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