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Both of those batteries should be recoverable. Put them on a 0.5amp balance charge and then check the internal resistance, page 23 of the T100 manual. Depending on the pack size it should be below 10 milliohms per cell. For the lipo alarm, the generic ones from ebay are pretty good, the main issue is the balance lead can pop off so make sure you secure the wiring.

Because it comes with screws, I'm sure I didn't forget anything 😂 Spent more time adding stuff then driving it with this British weather

I've always really liked hard bodies but I've always been more performance over looks with my crawlers. I got a wrangler hard body about a year ago and planned to do it in the winter. After building and fitting it to one of my scx10's, I loved it. It obviously effects the centre of gravity but I think it's well worth it. So one thing leads to another and now I've got about five hard body builds on the go. Here's one... This one is the leftover chassis from my scx10 ii. Incredibly noisy scx10ii kit gearbox (smooth as you like just noisy). Fusion Pro motor/esc, desert lizard 90mm internal sprung shocks. Cranked stainless links, four link with ams. I've done some of the other builds with a chassis mounted servo for the scale look, I just don't like them. Injora jeep cherokee 313mm body, injora cherokee front bumper, painted Tamiya drab olive. Magnets on the front and you can kinda use the stock mounts supplied with the body as a hinge. I've given this a little test, drives pretty good. Next is adjustable shock towers on the rear to adjust the height, inner arches on the front need fitting, and fit the moulded lexan interior supplied with the kit.

Hey there, long time no update from me, mainly due to being slightly more involved at the drift club now. Following the trend of my two other threads: and We have now the unreasonably priced Yokomo SD 2.0. I won't go into as much detail since i'm writing this after the car is already built (and around 70% there in terms of set up already), but i thought maybe someone is interested in what a slightly higher end kit looks like. Lets get straight into it, here's what i ordered. A Yokomo SD 2.0 (their newest kit, basically one step below their absolute high end), the "purple special edition". Together with a Scale Reflex Gorilla mounting system, and a rear ESC holder - both, of course, also in purple. I'll "reveal" how much i'm into this chassis at the end. Starting the build, it looks like this. Not particularly impressive. In fact, the one thing that struck me throughout the build is how, for the most part, "not special" it is. It just is very solidly cut/built - it's quality over gimmicks. Lets speed through this. A few steps later, you'll arrive at this point. I assembled gearbox and differential already, didn't take pictures since they were straightforward - the differential is a gear diff running 10000cst goop, and it's a four gear transmission (not as in four ratios, but four cogs, two idlers). You can set it up as a three gear transmission, too, but didn't fancy it. The difference is basically one idler added/removed, and it translates into different behaviours of the rear. On a very basic level, four gears promote the rear to squat down, three gears prevent squatting. There's no "better" variant, there's just preference, i personally like my car to squat because it makes it behave more like a real car. More on that in a bit. The transmission as can be seen is open, which is a bit weird, just added maintenance since i have to clean it out of dust every few runs, but here we are. I am currently running the standard gear differential, because i couldn't really get on with the centrifugal differential that i installed in the RDX - it made it harder to control, because i could never really tell when the diff was starting to lock. This is simpler, and while not as trick/competitive, for a sunday drifter like me, much easier to drive consistently. Slide rack installed. My first slide rack. Also the last slide rack i'll ever install. I found a tool, pictured above, that'll help with the "install" of the next one. I don't know if this is particular to this chassis since it's the only one i've ever built with a slide rack, but christ - it genuinely took me 45 minutes to get it situated proper, i.e. not binding and running smooth. Absolutely zero fun and easily the worst "piece" i've ever assembled in any RC. Drove me up the wall. Shock towers etc on, around this point it struck me what kind of gorgeous piece of kit this actually is. Very high quality on all parts. Not as nice to assemble as the plastic RDX, mainly due to the manual being rather old school and not being 100% obvious sometimes, but fitments were 110%. Which brings us to the shocks: These are Yokomo Big Bore shocks, for many people the first upgrade part they ever do on their drifter, regardless of which make. They're reasonably priced (around £80), they're decently pretty (and purple!), they work really well and i've sold them immediately. I basically just assembled them to put them on the rig for a picture, that's it lol. Of course i did build them like my own, with all O-Rings properly greased with 1UP etc. And finally: Not setup yet, also not on the final wheels, just attached what i had for the picture. The shocks look saggy because i didn't add the bladders (the guy who bought them wanted the shocks dry, didn't want to damage the bladders by dry-rubbing them inside the shock), but as i said, i've never driven on these shocks. The front body posts also weren't trimmed at this point, because i had a new shell in the making and hadn't taken measurements yet. It's a pretty rig, no doubt. Now, for electrics, i basically threw my RDX electrics at it, with a few tweaks, as can be seen here. Being an XD10 Pro ESC, D10 10.5t motor, Reve D RS-ST servo and Reve D Revox gyro, paired to my NB4. This is the first stage of setting it up, result being: Decent enough for the girls i am dating, so while i did adjust weight balance a little bit by shifting wires, it was nothing to write home about. You'll also notice that the stupendously expensive Overdose HG3 shocks are mounted to this, despite not being purple. Can't have it all. Now after doing all that, and getting a base line set up, of course i thought that a new motor was required, including a full rewire of the car, throwing everything off again - but the naked wires did annoy me, and the rear wire salad was too much for the shell to handle, so i gave "resoldering ESC side of motor wires" a go, with.. meh results. In my defence, the wires are actually not heat resistant (it's not silicone), so i couldn't do much there. Was my first try, in the future i'll get bloody wire that doesn't melt when you try to solder it (well, the sleeve anyway). The motor was changed to a 13.5t D10 (same motor, less RPM), this time in purple. Which is the current setup still. Now, the shell. It's a shell that i had for absolute ages, started building it either with the RDX or the RMX, can't remember - probably had it close to a year just sitting in the cupboard, finally got around to have it finished. And i absolutely love it. Kustom Kulture of course being the drift club, it's "our" livery. As it sits right there, with the shocks and electrics, it owes me around £1300 now. Which is completely moronic, it's more capable than i'll ever be, but you know.. that's how the hobby goes. I'm happy, can't put a price on that. At least that's what i 'm telling my wife, and myself at night. Lastly, here's how it drove last sunday. Keep in mind, first day with new wiring, motor and shell (which i only noticed afterwards, didn't sit proper, it's fixed now). Just look at how lovely and smooth it runs, as well as how amazing those shocks are. I do love it, i just don't think about the money i paid for it. Much. Thanks for reading: it's a shorter one than the others, but i "had to" build this kit within 6 hours, didn't leave much time to take detail pictures etc.

not really now. A basic PLA filament printer can be had for around £200, which isn;t too bad. I have made a load of parts for hte RCs with mine, making battery boxes, servo mounts, etc. If I can model it in 3D software..then I can make it in plastic!

Yeah, my first model was an RC10T brought from Marc Knight that used to work at mantua models in Windsor, used to race it and the centre on the farmham road in slough. actually won an original RC10T on eBay in December but it’s in the UK currently I will pick it up in the summer. love the look of this car.

@Stormbringer, much appreciated man, this scale stuff is awesome for kitbashing with. I only realised today that I started with a SCX10 slider and Blazer body set, the Blazer got cut in half and there's only the skid and rails left of the SCX10, I never really make a plan but that's nuts. Guess I better start making an SCX10 sometime.😂

Takes me back a few years i had a 2nd hand goldtub rc10 back in the day and that looks good

Thanks @Stormbringer Is I've got a kinda rough IFS designed for this now, should work at least. Hopefully get some dry weather that pairs with free time soon so I can test it. I half ripped the geometry from some Tamiya TL01 parts that are on Thingiverse and freestyled it to get me some ground clearance and get the wheels in the right place. I used some captured pivots from Schumacher(no idea what they are meant for, just like the idea and they seemed nice and small. Put some 50mm Bilsteins from RC4WD on for shocks. The main chassis mount needs some refining but unless the rest falls apart easily then it'll do. I'm just gonna link the servo to the steering bar, I've not really got the energy to fit a rack or bellcrank unless I really have to. Here's what the whole chassis looks like, nothing too clever but seems to feel like it should drive. And I picked up various wheels and tyres to try on this, lots more than what's behind the truck. I'm really liking these RC4WD 1.7" steelies with some AliExpress 1/14 truck tires at the moment. So now to finish the bed mount, rear lights and I think it'll move on to paint/glue etc. Might try get the other one caught up as well so I can so it all at the same time.

New addition, still a work In Progress but getting there

Thank you, thought I was getting better with my knowledge of all things RC but I still have much to learn

I did a thing today and removed the rear to install some parts. I now know how to change the spur gear which something I was a bit unsure of with the spring etc. Stuck it all back together without any screws left over for a change and seems to run alright. Anyone else run a carnage?

Cool now your learning stuff and its a bonus nothing left over

That’s cool man, nice job👍

definately differant mate but i like it

Spent today working on body mounts for the truck. The cab is mounted independently from the bed so either part can be removed easily and in isolation from the other. Ride height is spot on for what I was aiming for which is pretty much a stock/muscle truck look - no slamming rides here 😅 Next will be to get a gearbox and motor in and then work on an interior.

Just Married!

Nice Nice Nice this is stunning, just a few pics and spot a couple of mods right away. More pics and maybe a running video at weekend if weather plays okay this has a full lighting system main headlights are super bright

Here's a quick video of it going down part of my crawler course. Yes, I've already scratched it.

Here's a wee update to the shop truck build. Installed a Yota axle on the rear end and finished off the rear suspension with some 1/18 scale dampers to compliment the leaf springs. I'm going for a stock/muscle truck look so rather than big wheels and skinny tyres I have gone the opposite way with fat tyres and 1.55 beadlocks. The tyres are actually from the Tamiya euro racing truck range and the beadlocks are from Pro-line racing both of which fit together so well.

Yehh a fusion system I have those in my TRx4 and 6 they are brilliant

they both look great