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This evening I started cleaning the wheels up. The chromed plastic on the bead lock rings was scraped and tatty so cleaned that off of all eight. If anyone needs any chrome I'm pretty sure most of it is in my lungs 🙄 Did think about painting the rings but it won't last one outing off-road. Swapped the screws for stainless self tappers.

I'd have to re weight, will do when rebuilding. The lock wasnt 400g maybe 40g. The heavier the better but there is a power to weight ratio that will start to affect performance depending on motor and gearing. The carbon sheet comes in sheets, this is a full sheet that i cut with the dremel, the front of the splitter is the front of the body, as the chassis is mostly flat it works pretty well. Id have preffered longer sheets but thats the largest i could find. I mounted it first then cut out the wheels, heres before the cutting. Irrc it was about 15quid a sheet and this is 2mm thick from ebay.

Got a few parts arrive today, there was good deals to be had on aliexpress, the reason there is so many wheel nuts is there was a 75% off deal on them and i had to spend over £8 for free shipping, so i was 50 odd pence over for 20 wheel nuts, thought i would give the alloy diff housing cover things a go as the ultimate has them so why not and i am thinking its maybe the plastic ones flexing thats killing diffs. I also have tried a different type of hardened diff gears but just went with a rear 1 to begin with and see how that works out and then maybe get a front afterwards as i was a bit annoyed with the cost of spiral cut gpm ones and long they lasted

Thank you very much for advice

They look really good black the ss screw

Shame about the rx being doa but your still making progress tho

Few more pics to come, if there’s anyone out there lol.

Receiver is definitely dead, not heard about a refund/replacement yet 🤨 So did a bit of mounting the servos etc and slipped some plastic over braid on the cables. Not sure if the alloy servo horns I got will work, bit too short. I'll either extend them or just fit the plastic ones.

Oh yeah I wouldn't dispute that, apart from the trx4 being more capable... If it is, it's not by much, my NT4 has sailed past a fair few stricken trx4's in the last few weekends. I have been into the portals, diffs and gearbox and it all looks suitably sturdy and it seems to like heavier oil in the shocks (600) I bought mine because I liked the shell and the reasonable level of performance as a trail truck has surprised me to be honest. But If was heading out to do some serious stuff it would be the Capra😂 I will keep mine semi scale and keep trucking....

Wasn't it massive financial difficulty, resulting in them being brought out several times, thus making them very unstable? Uncertainty with who was distributing their parts made customers lose confidence in them. I can't imagine the cloning of the Baja helped them. HPI genuinely were my favourite RC Manufacturer. I started with their touring cars, going from a Tamiya TL-01 to a HPI RS4 Sport was like going forward 20 years. I then had every Pro 1-4. I jumped at the original Savage .21 when it came out, despite not being into nitro, and Ive lost count how many Savage Flux's I've owned. But unfortunately, that company has now gone. It doesnt exist. The one you see today is a shell of them unfortuantely.

Shocks arrived yesterday and front bumper arrived from Germany today, no extra fees either 🙂 Shocks are a mixed bag if i am honest. They are perfectly fine but little thought seems to have been given how to fill them. You can unscrew the top cap but then the spring is too strong to raise the piston up and down to get the air out. You cant take the spring off from the bottom as the retainer has no slot in it to remove it. So, you have to take the cap off, remove the adjuster and then take the spring off. Problem arises though when you put it back together, shock full of oil, slide spring on, hold spring down with fingers, put adjuster on and screw that down far enough to get the top cap back on. Yes there are flats on the shock body for a spanner but you need a spanner about 2mm thick to get it through the spring. In the end I 90% filled them then topped them up through the bleed screw hole.

How reliable has yours been? Mine has many pretty hard hours on it now and the only issue I have had was with the locking diffs not operating too reliably. Turns out the slider for the locking mechanism was dry and had a bit of corrosion. Apart from that it has been very reliable.. A money pit insomuch as I'm spending on it (fusion pro inbound) plus some chevrons... But out on the trails it has been performing very very well alongside element and traxxas models.

I hope it works, but a warning from experience it doesn't help... the wing will just dig into the road and cause a crash. Some people put a little scoop on the front to help keep the front down but nothing to this extent. The rear wing is way to steep and will make the back heavy and front light. I still recommend putting in an extra battery this will weight it down more and add some lead weight on the front. You can control the weight better than the airo, most speedrunners use flat wings to keep the car straight not add downforce. The body usually does enough to push the car down and i doubt your loosing traction.

Well. charging my first lipo, cannot remember how long it takes. lol

Might be worth checking with your club, as a few are doing lipo trials at the moment. There will be a change over at some point, so clubs are experimenting (or at least watching other clubs experimenting!) I say this because the club I'm about to start running at started a discussion last week, literally the day after I received my four nimh packs in the post! I'm not upset, as I haven't joined the club yet, so they had no way of alerting me, and it's a big enough turnout of minis to find someone to race against anyway.

User manual is available to download here. https://teamxray.com/xb8e/2019/en/download/

Lots of info in this link. Mostly relates to tuning for racing though. https://teamxray.com/xb8e/2019/ Are the electronics stock in it?

Good on you mate 👍 Be sure to run the engine in properly...warm it up first with a heat gun or engine heater. Hope you have fun tinkering 😁

HPI were generally better ... but the Bullet MT3.0 was not one of their finest. HPI even did an official video showing how to fit fuel tube into the drive cups to stop them spitting out driveshafts. Savages I love. Bullets not.

Getting close 🙂 New front bumper ordered from Hobbythek as nowhere in the UK had it in stock and they had an offer for 50% off delivery so only a few £s more expensive than buying it over here anyway. Also ordered the IRC DBXL shock set from Taylor RC, they better be good for the price!

More what did i do for my models...... So having 2 small scale crawlers the FCX24 K5 and the Rock van evo, they use small 2s lipo`s with 1.25 jst connectors that would use USB chargers with no facility to put lipo to storage. So i got a pack of the 1.25 connectors, had to wait weeks from China, made up this cable so i can now charge or storage charge via a hobby charger, also using my Toolkit M6 i can charge in the field from a 2200mah 3s lipo. The cable was already XT60 to Red JST so just added the extra link

Thank you!! Body is done, parts come tomorrow, it’s SUPPOSED to be sunny so at night the road should be bone dry. If I’m successful there will be a video that night 😂😂 went for gold, came out alright!

You have run yours side by side with an Element but i have a modified gatekeeper and no way will the NT4 do what the Element can do, it has been okay`ish so far but if i am brutally honest i regret spending £400 on this model plus the cost of a few upgrades like the wheels and better radio, for what i have paid out i could of got a Traxxas TRX4 hi trail and we know that is less scale looking but more capable of road and more than likely tougher along with a much better parts supply , i want to call it a day and sell this model on but i cant as i would lose to much money on it, so it would appear i am stuck with a pig in a poke, i wont spend any more money on it and dont see me using it so looks like i have my first shelf queen model. When i looked at getting this i also considered the budget LDRC cheap 1/12 Unimog and in hindsight it would of been a better buy as its a LOT less money! Sorry to be brutal honest but i like to speak my mind

Thanks for reply. I maybe thinking too much into this. just got myself 4 new 2s so need to check my savage and bullet quickly see what is needed. hate working graveyard shift ☹️☹️