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Just about saved it!

Spent the evening cutting the sticker sheet. Not going to put the extra chrome details on, not a huge fan of chrome! Can't wait to get it running.

Had issues with old engine so swap done the field, it’s absolutely nuts,

Those axles are fine and great for the money, if you buy them take them apart and grease everything before you use and then threadlock all screws with blue threadlock, then they work fine

Running them on my Outback, good axles for the money, they're also available under different brands for a lot more. Scx10 parts fit if axles or bearings fail, full metal locker inside.

Baja 5sc brushless. Its mix of Hpi baja and Km baja parts. The brushless kit is genuine Hpi. Its running a Castle Xl2 8s esc and rocket 980kv motor. Very very quick. It can be used with 6s and 8s aswell. Comes with 2 batteries- 6s and 8s. Proline trenchers offroad tyres, one of the best for this monster and genuine hpi onroad wheels with 2 good tyres and 2 that are fine for fronts. Comes with radio gear. I am open for swaps as well. Price: 490 quid

After our last bash i was furious with our ecx ruckus within 5min it blew out the diff, spur, pinion and bent the servo saver ring meaning no steering or drive at all. So i stripped it of anything we can use in something else. Was then offerd a roller with lots of extras to sell to bring back some. I still have a full set of wheels to move then the roller will have cost £140 or £100 with the sale of the ecx and bits. But is an upgraded roller too. Bonus bits supposed to be red but look pink alloy hubs and purple servo horn. Perfect. I installed the elecs and wheels from the ecx and just plan glam it up pink with little details. Plus dye the chassis pink hopfully the same as the body shade looking at pics. I wanted shock socks but £10 now stuff that. I have pink hardware from the jeep ive been collecting up for ages plus orderd some pink screws for the links to bling those. I like counter sunk screws with cone washers for incase they strip its much easier to cut a line into them being raised. Failing that chew off the weak washer and grip the head with plyers. Ive not needed to yet but i think it will. But yeah the sparkle is the main lure. The esc tray will look nice with the pink screws and some spacers to hide the screw threads. Plus the desperado rims ill paint the indent on each spoke with nail polish and cock tail sticks dotting it on. That's next. Ive tested nail polish on plastic before a revo 3.3 all the body posts and most of the rear wing. None flaked in a year but was too dark. So im painting it white then bright pink. I saw the new hpi savage xs when looking the bright green and white xs. I really liked it but wanted a girls version. I went a little ott with paint masks but we love the body shell my daughter placed most of the star masks and chose which colors go where. The mistakes are all mine though and i tried to be neat lol. Next time liquid mask and cutting guiders. Which i found at the end. I have small styrene 90° angled lenghs i could have used for the straights and i did draw the curves with the roll of tape. But didnt use it to cut. Next time mayb lol. Pics were missing broken in this post so added these three from the time. I need some pin stripe tape to go over the messy lines. I just cant decide on a body for my slash and would rather have an axial cage but always miss them complete. Ill use this thread for both of our trucks now on. Stampede and Slash MT.

Hi if you own a vorza or D8 before the D815 Tessman. Standard D815 might be good too. I need the measurements for the centre diff screws. Distance between screws underneath side to side please. Ive hit a marble wall with my build the one thing i thought was easy is the thing that cant work. But why not. My best guess is the new centre diff bulk head has a bigger footprint. So mayb i need an older chassis to mount my Ekit. But keeping all the other screw placements the same. If anyone has the buggies listed ide appreciate the help thanks. Heres my issue. Im using a E kit that says its for the D8 not D8T lol yet it was on the D8T but wont fit the D8 so it has to be this new diff bulk head. It's just afew mm out of wack. This chassis is near scrap so ill drill it if needs be. But i hate that kinda stuff always want the nice clean install. But I'm DEEP in this now plus unsure if i can rebuild them back as before lol. I know i ruined one shock stand off already and have afew screws. Extra. Hopfully it comes good and not just looks like it faults everytime it runs ill be gutted. Hence wanting clean install not a sliding CD lol.

Just thought I’d share this as it surprised me a bit! We had just finished shopping in one of the many malls in Hong Kong and a familiar smell hit my nose, Tamiya paint! There was a guy walking down the street painting a bodyshell... It was beyond strange! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No worries, Goodluck finding what you want. Check out the Team Associated RC8E if you want a excellent handling and build quality racer. Or Kyosho. Check YouTube vids on em. In one video a guy reviews the team c T8E/ same as my Ansmann and highly rates it, even against the associated Rc8e. Again good luck finding your rc

Oddified 30.5 with 990 carb, it’s awesome !!.?

I had them on m scx10 and couldn't fault them. As above though just make sure they're greased and everything is tight, mine came with a few loose screws!

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/230623-another-hilux-a-bobbed-comp-truck/&share_tid=230623&share_fid=4338&share_type=t Another Hilux. A Bobbed Comp Truck. Drool time Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Not my area of expertise sorry! I do run standard Scx10 axles on my son's 'scaler' but even those stick out quite far,. picture shows how much... I'm sure I read somewhere there's the tlt axles that are coveted for scale builds, or I think you can narrow the scx10 axles. Scale builders guild is a really useful resource for learning more on this one and there's also an immense build going on here somewhere. I'll have a look and link if I find it[emoji6] Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Also threw one of the MT wheels on the VSe..... Gearing would definitely have to be addressed They clear all the arms nicely with no rubbing It clears the shell on full lock at ride height but hits when compressed, I also doubt it would clear the shell on the left rear due to the exhaust bulge (the nitro and electric share the same shell)

Hey guys and gals. Took a small break from MSUK to sort my life out a little. Spent some time floating around Tamiya Club and now back here. Needed to try and sort out my Levant which was totally doing my head in. Hope everyone is doing alright! Doesn't look like XV Pilot has returned yet ?? Also wasnt too sure where to post this

Trust me I was tempted. I'm hoping I've sorted why it kept running so damn hot.

Sorted out the rear end droop on the UDR Before After Turned down 20 turns on springs front back to start and filled the empty shocks well about 10mls from top with 45wt refitted. I wanted the cantilever bars ( I think that’s right at about 90 degrees instead of 45 degrees anyway it’s sorted the droop. Put some stickers on as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bang the Levant against the wall instead? ?

Could salt water have touched it? Savox 1256 isnt waterproof either mate but even sand is a killer. That poor UDR lol. Is it all sealed drive line. No greasey parts able to collect sand? Cos it will destroy rcs fast mate. That's abuse lol. Ide still do it too though. But not through sea water no matter how tempting.

Oh...my bad...I thought you meant a plane based mini four stroke... A larger four stroke like the weedwhacker won't have enough power to impress you....less power to weight ratio than a comparable two stroke...they don't tend to rev as highly as well.... Not meaning to pee on your chips here but I think a 2 stroke 23cc would do much better in a 1/8 application like an mta4 Just my 2c

Good to see you back mate.

Haha I'll tidy them up at the end with a drill attached sanding thingamajig. I actually knackered one arch when i was cutting, I've worked 10 days straight of 12 hour days, and knew i shouldn't have attempted it, but it's such a cool shell i couldn't wait.

That's coming together nicely ...the paint bleed actually gives it some extra patina ..... Lol, you cut arches like I do...

Fine here for me mate. hope your sorted and back for good

Thanks mate I will order one.

Welcome back!

The SS/SSe is a buggy and spec wise is a step down from the VS/VSe. The ST is the older truggy design and is nitro only, the SST/SSTe is a newer platform and available in both nitro and electric. The TT is a 1/10 truggy. I'd say the SST is probably more durable than the Proline MT as it's a 1/10 and doesn't seem to hold up well to being used with 1/8 scale power systems. I'm assuming you mean the Tekno 410 MT? If so then that's a superior vehicle to the SST as it's a true 1/8 MT and built like a brick outhouse by one of the top brands in the industry bit if the Hobao MT is too expensive then the 410 will make your eyes water at the cost.

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobao-hyper-sste-truggy-1-8th-scale-electric-rolling-chassis/rc-car-products/379171 https://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/product/HBMTE-C150BU/hobao-hyper-mt-sport-plus-elec-rtr-w-hw150a-esc-18kg-servo-blue Other retailers may also offer them.

First time i use a tape other than a Tamiya one and i get bleeds. Going to poorly impersonate Wabom and rust the shell a bit before applying final colour. The only saving grace is that it's a shell for my first race car, so it's going to die a horrible death anyway!

https://youtu.be/VSJJqxF212g

Fitted a Hobbywing 1060 to my sons ftx to run it on 3s and you know what its rips now and motor doesn't get too hot

Having a variety of different forums with different members is only good for the hobby. Chill and enjoy the hobby, find whichever platform you enjoy the most.

Gave this rusty heap a shakedown on the garden course today ready for hitting the real rough stuff tomorrow ??

It’s called time management, so many times you hear of people not have time for the hobby, this guy has it spot on ?

Great! I've always wanted a Hearse Monster Truck...

Thanks very much. ? Next instalment. I filled in the gap that runs the length of the rear light lenses, and added the supports for the tail gate and the long bed joint. This one will require next to no filling. Really pleased. Next job was to shorten the chassis rails so that they fitted underneath the bobbed bed. Then, painted the anti wrap bar and fitted it to the rear axle. Next up was the shocks. I opted for the rc4wd Bilstein shock. These are by far the best rc4wd shocks I've ever built. They are super smooth, and the shock shafts seem way more solid that the Old Man Emu shocks I build a while back. I filled them up with 7000wt diff oil. The 2 fixing bolts in the GCM transmission that I used for my mount were m2.5. One of them stripped pretty easily so I drilled and tapped them to m3. Perfect now. And I added some front leaf mounts from A & M Garages. Underside view of the anti wrap bar. And lastly, a test fit of the wheels and tires. Next up will be fitting the body, working out the battery location and starting to think about the bumpers and roll bar I guess. Thanks for looking.

Thank you Gaz. Thanks very much. On leaf sprung trucks, when you climb up stuff the rear axle wants to rotate upwards which can bend the leafs. An anti wrap bar stops the axles rotating but doesn't impede on the suspension travel. Hope that makes sense.

Sure, some of the main things are 540 brushed motor and aluminum motor mount, steel trans gears, quad shocks on all four corners, added weight to balance motor mount, Savok metal gear servo, home made aluminum skid plates, new ESC, aluminum front & rear bumpers, Warn winch, four off-road lights on roof rack, white spoke wheels. More mods coming and will post them as it happens. Thanks for all taking interest in this "economical" build. lol

Hi, hope your sitting comfortably... theres a few little stories that have contributed and spurred me on a bit to do this. ive seen mentioned a few times now the term “bolt on builder” and I have to hold my hands up and say yes, my trx4 has all option parts, I’ve not made anything on it There is a couple of main reasons for this to happen, my health, it’s so damned unpredictable some days I’ve enjoyed every minute some I’ve rushed and it’s left a rough ish finish. So disappointing to have a vision and not be able to do it. Along with that comes bumpers, sliders and general metalwork. Cost of Chinese parts,by the time I’ve bought the materials, covered gas/wire/electric I could have bought what I needed with a more consistent finish all at the touch of the screen. And I get the parts I want without suffering stupid pain the next day, it does become very saddening..... Another reason is my mancave, it’s that small the I haven’t got a screwdrivers length of space width wise when either my trx4 or tf2 lwb sat on my bench, by the time I have all the necessary bits on hand, makes it even tighter, so scratchbuilding and test fitting became such a laborious task, I’m giving up on anything major after I’ve finished the next project after this one for the foreseeable future, I’ll get a proper man cave eventually..... had and some really rough news recently, my old man has prostate cancer, luckily it’s treatable and not spread but the reality hit really hard. I can’t face going for tests again, been once before for the same test, ain’t happening again! so this project already had a reason, I’ll get there eventually. But my plan is to start gathering bits for a one off build then raffle it off or sell and give proceeds to Macmillan cancer centre in Chesterfield. ill save that for another day though. so finally we’re onto this build, now it’s nearly finished but you won’t see those pics until after it’s maiden run at this years g6 event. Sorry. as some of you know, I built a burger van in honour of my dear wife (she does put up with all my crap). me and my lad were chatting and Mum is the only one without a Rc, hmmmm, that needs to change although the isn’t that interested in them at all, well just the prices sod it ive built her a little bit of something to pull the burger van round, it won’t be doing anything extreme, bit like a outback i think it was last year when myself and @heavyleftthumb we’re chatting all things landy and we both had a lightbulb moment about making something a little different, we each had a plan (October 2017) so started to source a few bits, namely a cheap Chinese chassis that’s exceptional value for money, leaf spring kits not so much axles I’ve had for ages and are Rc4wd yota axles, gearbox (originally) and transfer box, unfortunately with the plan I had, conventional mounting of the gearbox was a no go, switched over to a scx10 modded gearbox now so a p.t.o the front is available.... had enough typing now, gonna go sit outside with a ciggy and a cup of Yorkshire finest tea so so here is the first steps to this “barn find” Land Rover. chassis built up and leafs fitted. ill update every few days or so, mega busy now though, daughters 10th today and my lad is 11 on Monday really sorry for rambling on and on and thank you for looking. *maybe I should charge people to see it*

The chassis is almost complete, just waiting for some small rear shocks to arrive and figure out best way of mounting it, other than that, not too much, well not yet anyway...... the body on the other hand next big update will be the reveal with some nicer outdoor pics.

My Mini M-05. First ever RC Car, I've already started upgrading. Thanks

Stared in horror as i watched paint bleed under my masking tape.