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Got the rim in the post from Harv today, and cracked on with the design of the first rim! Its a two part construction, the main face is one, and then the cylinder which contains the stud pattern. Thinking about maybe designing some Bolts in there to make it look like there bolted on. Also i forgot how big 1/5th rims are, ive stuck the parts into Cura and its going to be roughly 5 hours per hubcap, sadly i can only fit one on the bed at a time. So a set of 4 is 20 hours! I've got them at the minute a 5mm thick and after discussing what the best plan is to mount them, it seems to be leaving them blank, and just allowing everyone to drill the relevant holes in them to fit their bead retainers. Will try and tweak the design a wee bit to improve it then send one a pair down (albeit in the wrong colour) to make sure they will stand up to a good thrash!

Thats exactly it! LOCKED

Someone else's wife

Myself...

Things learnt today.. the 30° north shell is bloody strong. The jet pro pipe gives the car a good turn of speed. Hard springs all round is a must and slicks on damp tarmac is interesting!! Video to upload in a bit

The wife. Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo

8s in an eighth scale short course truck. What can possibly go wrong! Well, a lot apparantly. This came about mainly, due to having an 8s 250a MGM lying around. I bought Bez's old Hong Nor short course truck a couple of years back, which is just Hong Nor CR Buggy bits, plonked onto a CRT chassis. It sadly didnt last long as a short course truck, and is now a touring car which i run as my 808 car at Rossa. But i always wanted another, and after dabbling with a hyper SC i made on the same theory, i've went back to Hong Nor. Its easier only have one big set of spares! Ive done quite a bit of work to the car upto this point. Including 3d printed Receiver box, Lipo Tray, ESC mounts and body work all of which now is starting to come undone after a couple of weeks hard bashing (including well over 100 cartwheels). Main Specs of the car; MGM 250a ESC (in another car now) Sirius 1717 Motor (RIP, Sensor fell off, attempted fix failed, still on look out for replacement) HPI ATTK-8 Body Shell (still going, Just) Alturn Digital HT Servo (RIP, completely Died) Lots and Lots and Lots of Lipos (some damaged) MAIN SPECS UPDATED 7/06/16 Turnigy Trackstar 8s 200a ESC SKYRC 1350KV 6 Pole Motor HPI ATTK-8 Body (Still wanting another SC8 shell Savox 1256 Even more lipos...... MAIN SPECS UPDATED 18/12/16 Turnigy Trackstar 8s 200a ESC SKYRC 730KV (5th Scale Motor) Team Associated SC8 Shell Savox 1256 Not Many Lipos, Need More, many... Finally have the car reliable (almost). Had 3 sets of packs today through it before anything went wrong, and things only broke when it hit a bump and cartwheeled several times. Initally had the car cogging a lot off the line, this was solved by tweaking a few settings in the ESC, mainly the PWM frequency. Car now runs sweet as a nut with the ESC temps no higher than 50C, and the motor temp hovering around 60C. I've had a couple of issues with the ESC overheating in the past, which has led me to create a 3rd heatsink that sits on top (Gold One), and so far its done its job Have a few things to sort out now, Mainly the Lipo tray and the ESC mount which broke on the last bash. ESC mount snapped from one of the accidents. Ive now made this a bit shorter, should hopefully reduce the chance of it snapping again. The Lipo tray i have made the walls thicker, and made it a little bit smaller as it was a tad large for what i needed and the lipos could move about a bit. Also need to sort the bodyshell. Not too impressed with it to be honest. I sold the Team Associated SC8 shell with the Hyper SC i built, and now wishing i had not. It was way stronger and too a lot more abuse. Going to take quite a bit of shoo goo to get this back together. Also might need to add some new rubber. Ive ran GRP buggy wheels for last year or too. There pretty cheap pre-mounted and there the only wheels and tyres which seem to survive 8s, as ive never had one blow up on me yet. Only problem is there more for racing so the grip on the grass is pretty poor!, Especially when they wear to this is only a couple of weeks! Hopefully get a video of it next time im out

I'm having a good old clearout so my Traxxas E-Revo VXL 1/16 is first up for grabs. It comes RTR with the original Traxxas handset, three*standard NiMH*batteries (there's only two in the pics but I found another one after I took the photo!), two Turnigy Nano Tech 2200mAh 2 cell Lipo's, a brand new sealed spare wing and Traxxas parallel and series battery harnesses. The arms all round have been upgraded to black RPM ones, as has the front bumper, a wheelie bar's been added too. It's in excellent condition, just the usual scrapes on the underneath and the shell, nothing major though. I'm pretty sure I've got the original bumper and arms somewhere, if I find them I'll throw them in too. In fact I've got quite a few spare parts, if I can round them all up anything Revo related I'll send too. Also got all of the original manuals too and a couple of decal sheets. Collection welcome from Stoke on Trent or will meet partway if a reasonable distance. £180 including postage if required ono SOLD Next is Traxxas E-Revo VXL 1/16 rolling chassis that is unfortunately*broken but is an easy fix for someone with the time, patience and inclination (which I'm sadly lacking!) Truck is excellent condition (apart from the broken bit but I'll get to that in a mo). It has a T Bone skid plate fitted (which I still have the leaflet for), and red RPM arms all round and an RPM front bumper. Also comes with a spare brand new sealed wing and a spare*shell which is a little bit worse for wear but would be good for bashing with. Usual scuffs to the standard shell and the underneath of the car but the skid plate does a very good job.*Radio equipment or batteries not included, however I'm also selling some Lipo's so if you need some let me know and I can add them to the car. The only part that's broken is the front right steering/suspension. The ball joint has popped out of the knuckle and needs popping back in.*And the steering assembly underneath, in the very middle of the car, has snapped where the screw for the steering push*rod fastens to it. A replacement steering assembly is around £14 so a cheap fix but in all honesty I've got no motivation to do it myself. Sounds really bad doesn't it lol!? Collection from Stoke on Trent welcome or would meet partway if a reasonable distance. £120 posted ono SOLD Two full sets of Proline 2.2 Trenchers mounted on black Bead-Loc wheels. These looked awesome on our 1/16 E-Revo's and are brilliant at handling gravel/rough surfaces. We used to use them at our local little BMX track and they were great fun. Tyres are in excellent condition, not been used a great deal, although they are still a bit muddy even though I've tried to clean them! Tread is still excellent as are the hexes. I've got two full sets, I'll add pics of each set, just let me know which set you'd like. Collection from Stoke on Trent welcome. £40 ono per set Set 1: Set 2: I've got a load of old shock and diff oils, of varying weights. I think most of them have been opened and some*oil used but there seems to be plenty left in them. If anyone want a full list just let me know and I'll get one together. Off the top of my head there's a few Ofna oils, an Associated, some Team Orion and a GS plus a few others. There's a tube of Tamiya grease and a tub of some engineering grease. Some of the bottles may be a little sticky but I'll do my best to clean them up before I package them. If anyone wants the lot £15 posted ono OILS NOW SOLD

Looks good! Should make for a nice basher shell so the Tamiya ones can stay on the shelf looking tidy. Is it a Matrixline one? What do you make of the quality?

You are correct - that is a clip-on heatsink, not a mount. If you can't find the stock dust shield, you can make one easily enough with something card and a circle cutter, or even a compass and some scissors if you are desperate.

Ah yeah, that's what i was trying to say earlier with the bolt pattern of the beadlocks, all using the same etc.. That makes it better having prescribed holes, easy to add too. The dish at the minute is only 10mm, so it will sit maximum inwards 10mm from the furthest outside point of the beadlock it is attached to. Hoping to keep this even if i put it down to 5mm, as the original designs without this just looked like cheap hubcaps you'd through on a car from Halfords! If you could maybe measure up how much i could go in on different wheels (anyone) it would be a great help. I also thought about hiding the wheel, what about a brake disc?? Although this does come with the same problem as the disc, as it would require probably around 2mm behind the beadlock, or a 2mm gap between the face of the beadlock ad the rim in other words. I can thicken the spokes easy enough if i cant figure out the brake disc idea Also it was this wheel;

I would like to throw a vote in for the Bartalone one great fit and finish and vfm

I wouldn't worry about cancelling the alloy mount. While by no means essential, it is a nice upgrade to have as it helps with motor heat dissipation - never a bad thing within the confines of a buggy bodyshell.

As always, the item has clearly been sold elsewhere and the seller doesn't want to pay ebay early ending fees. Fair enough and common practice.

I've had a stone trap there a few times, in fact the first time it did it it took a good ten minutes to find the cause. Will be interested in how you get on with these now.

Updated my Octane 2 CDI unit now in box up front converted Chinese import Baja exhaust. Start and runs well easier to play with tuning as does not kill your hearing. I wil get some videos of it running when I can

I bought this not much of a bike .) bought some road wheels just easing back in I now realise I hate cantilever

Hmmm that does seem very quick for the battery to run out, when I ran a 1,600mAh LiFe pack in my Baja it was good for at least 6 hours run time. As a pure guess I'd say thirsty servos.

Yep just heat build from the angle of it.

Oh well worth a try looks like you have a suspect charger. Return it for a replacement.

Just a thought - is there a grub screw to allow access to the lower drive pin? and is it seated correctly? I've rebuilt dozens of diffs and it's an easy part to miss off / Cross thread.

I wiped any overfill off before hand but i was wondering that too, so i wiped it off again and left it, will check that when i get home from work

I love slicks on damp tarmac, full on 4 wheel drifts.... I need to find the footage, but got some great video I must share! @HomerSimpson- do you know where that video is that you took at Watford with that perfect 4 wheel drift?

became one with my buggy and left a chunk of skin from my finger on the chassis (tyre glue works fast)

Been working out the lighting on The Bat Truck

Well I own family owns a metal fabrication place. I was going to strip it all out and rebuilding it around the battery and electric parts. I bought high torque micro servos for it.

New heart for the badger... And some other parts, some for this build, some for another.

Really like the look of these! Carry on...

So how do you konow you love it? I had one and i was very fond of it, but due to all the plastic, its fairly light, and it doesnt have a great time off road because it has a fairly high centre of gravity and the SC shell acts as a parachute, its not that stable. Other 4wd SC's based on 1/8th buggies with an alloy chassis and centre diff seem to be a better choice as they seem to be alot more stable and comfortable with 1/8th electric systems. That said, I did like the Slash 4x4, id have another but they are very expensive for what they are due to Traxxas' marketing strategy.

good choice!! my girlfriend loves her but she has the white one. its a great car. she has done the bearing upgrade, alloy prop shaft and wil shortly be doing the diff upgrade to metal gears. you will really enjoy this car!!

Just gonna leave this here.... Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo

"tamiya rc kits good or not?????" Your words. Not mine. I presumed you came on here to ask for opinions to enable you to make the right choice of car. I am very sorry for giving you my opinion. That you asked for. Positively or negatively..... I could lie to you if thats what you want to hear and tell you how friction dampers and plastic bushes are the latest cutting edge in technology and performance? But surely asking on a forum you were after honest replies?

Yeah traxxasre stuff always looks bigger then what it is ........i had 1/10th 2wd brushless slash . ..used it once then sold it on.......1/8th is better for me

There was an all alloy version of the Rampage at one point .... so there should be plenty of upgrade options. If you jump your Blackout...you stand a chance of bending the chassis. Hebby turned his into a banana with no alloy upgrades at all. It's a big heavy truck to start with.

I did say it requires an external battery, and it'll work fine on a 2 channel with a 'Y' lead. Said 'Y' lead can be bought from Hobby King at the same time you buy the logger for less then £1.

Me and My partner rescued a 2y/o Female Tortie and white She was just aboned in her home after they moved out Shes an idiot - a softie - a cutie and very attention seeking - i cant blame her We wouldnt change her for the world though ----- What did the postie bring me? (well yesturday) A 120A Hobbyking Xcar Esc Once finally admitting to the manual - we got it working Finally have 1 car back up and running However, the fan unit keeps popping out - so back it goes *sigh* Without a car again Ziggy

Never seen a kit Ant.... I think its a case of a buying a few different sized stainless washers, different sizes/thicknesses and add judiciously where needed. There are certain places I often shim from new, the front pin holding the front stub axle being one place.

Mines not bad to be honest although I wouldn't recommend buying the v1 as a rtr reason being the stock electrics, well the radio and esc are known to have issues. I would recommend you buy a roller and add your own electrics .. If you want a roller let me know as I may part waves with mine i could even even through in some electrics if needed and radio gear pm me if you fancy a chat about it

Fixed it, and fitted some lovely new shocks. I like the red theme.

New HPI Tarmac Busters fitted today, along with DDM hard chrome springs. Cant wait to try this out.

OMG - how very dare you! Go and fraternise with the other brushless warriors (Tug and Noj) and please don't darken this topic again with such naive and inflammatory talk!

Here you go fella's as promised Now it just needs some mud and muck

My boy had lots of fun upgrading it !

Upgrades done ! Added bonus the bearings that were supplied run much better than the original ones and the car runs faster, really pleased.

And the reason I had to give it up (look away if you're squeamish) Broken scaphoid and a badly dislocated wrist resulting in torn tendons which has left me with severely restricted movement. This was around 9 months ago and the reason I got into rc.