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You need to get off ebay lol. You have an addiction!

i wouldn't buy a carrier bag off them, let alone a 1/5 scale lol

Time for something different..... Ive just had a quick dig around in the box and this thing looks to be a quality bit of kit! Pics to follow soon, but the build won't start till the weekend

No reason why a 30.5 would have a different gasket....if it's done properly! The copper gasket was used to raise the head up the 1mm needed for clearance on a longer stroke motor. Bodge really. Better to get one that has been proerly machined. All they have done is use the 36mm piston and mated it with the 30mm ( 2mm over normal ) stroke on the crank. The head is machined to relieve the extra 1mm the piston rises up the bore and that's about it. Don;t know if your motor is a 2 bolt or 4 bolt .... 2 Bolt ... basic... http://www.freeprawnracing.co.uk/esp-modified-36mm-305cc-kit-for-2mm-stroker-crank-cc254.html ported...http://www.freeprawnracing.co.uk/esp-mod-esp-championship-ported-36mm-305cc-kit-for-2mm-stroker-crank-cc253.html 4 Bolt ... http://www.freeprawnracing.co.uk/esp-4-bolt-modified-30.5cc-high-torque-championship-ported-36mm-zenoah-30.5cc-kit.html But I would advise you contact the shop to check fitment on your motor before ordering, just to be sure.

from £100 for a running one up to £350+ for a mint one.

Yep very true fella Personally for me I run 5s 20t pinion on a 2200kv motor, plenty quick enough

Agreed! OR a Top Kick. Big and Ugly FTW. None of this curvy coupe rubbish!

Have been looking at these myself so will be watching with interest. Subd Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk

Ok for drifting or looking pretty sat on a shelf imo.....

got a little bit more done trimmed the wheel arches no tyre rub anymore made the side exhaust cut the grill out and cut out the wheel wells what a right pain in the rear end they where to cut it's so thin

Yeah, another excellent looking spot there, and handy for the parking too. I'm going to have to get out and about and look for some better spots than the one I am currently using...

Yes Tony had dropped me a line... Sounds like I've a good platform to build from then... Just need the Baja to get to that number too now!

Few pic's of my Arcos build, hard going with only 1 good hand and very complex but Im enjoying every minute of it.

Plastic spur gears are better mate its the cheapest weak link. Either that or the diffs blow. I think a popular combo for the tt01 brushless is the hobbywing blue motor it's 540 sized but really it's 380 sized weird but seems to be popular in the tamiya. I saw a savage xs with it once. Also known as the flux shot combo I think. Using reload v2 esc which is the hobbywing 60a v2.

Yeah I did have a little play backwards and forwards but that's for any flex in the chassis. If you remove one rubber and slide it back and forth there should be play but not enough for the shaft to pop out.

The Mondeo kit will have an MSC,and the M3 will have an ESC

Hi there, I am a newbie as well and have just bought a new Tamiya TT-02 kit, mine came with a motor and an ESC (electronic speed controller aka throttle), but needed to get a servo (for steering) and a battery to power everything, I also needed to get a radio setup for it. First thing is to figure out what sized motor it uses, its usually printed on the box I am guessing its a 540 sized motor which is very common - there are loads of mods you can get especially on the TT-01 chassis so there will be build guides around. With regards to the radio gear, I simply bought a basic setup from ebay, type in 2.4ghz rc radio and you usually get quite a few come up, or indeed go to modelsportuk and check out what they have. The radio transmitter usually comes with a receiver in the box which is what you will need for the car to know what to do - the receiver is basically the box that the motor ESC and servo plugs into. With regards to the motor and ESC, you can get combo sets which have a matched motor and ESC, my guess is that you will probably be going for a 7.2v 6 cell Nimh battery rather than a Lipo battery initially (its what I am doing). I would however check the box as the kits sometimes come with a motor, you just need an ESC and a steering servo, I got the below servo, seems to be pretty good, simple etc. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/tactic-rc-tsx35-standard-sport-servo/rc-car-products/396709 Looking at the Tamiya site it seems that the FF-01 Mondeo has a 27t motor in the box and no ESC, it would seem that the TT-01 has a motor and ESC looking at the manual.

They will likely come with a motor only. Hobbywing 1060 ESC Flysky FS-GT2 radio And a standard size servo (depends on your budget) Battery, depends on if you want to go lipo or NIMH

Makes a 5ive look a Billy bargain.

If losi announced a full blooded losi 5TR (truggy) would all the racers abandon the rear axle business. I think a losi 5 truggy would just look amazing. Using the same body as the 8t and painted up similar to the original spednecks body. Which I think is one of the best rc bodies ever. It looks more moto X than toy. Not only that but isn't truggy racing one of the most popular classes. I don't understand why losi didn't make this before the rally. But Surley the losi 5ive truggy is losi anwser to these new big shows. But hasn't losi just released a truggy based on the six chassis? I'm very intrested in both of these axle beasts but I know I won't get getting either. At first I thought about the fid thinking it would be dbxl price range LOL I know I was stupid..

Hpi really do need to release something, and not just another rehash of the savage or baja platform, I think losi still have all bases covered with the 5ive and dbxl

Hopefully with these 2 turning up it might give Losi and HPI a kick up the ass to bring out updated models

Towards the end of our last marathon of a trail day I noticed that the yeti was making a clicking noise when under heavy braking. As it turns out, it was as I suspected in that it was to do with the front diff gears misaligning and crunching. The net result was this damage to the rear of the teeth on the pinion. As far as i can tell, whilst braking heavily the forces being exerted upon the plastic front bulkhead were so great that it was flexing, and was allowing the pinion to move forwards where only the back teeth were biting and then slipping. Or an alternative to that is the drive shaft alone was pushing the pinion too far forwards and causing the same issue. In either case, I've implemented two fixes. The first one is to shim the pinion shaft to stop it from moving on the horizontal, and the second being to install the GPM ally front bulkhead. First the GPM bulkhead. Not cheap, but I do like it. It didn't assemble in the same way as the stock plastic version; they decided to halve it on the symmetrical middle for some reason. All the screws were provided and it went together with no issues. I'd read that some found they needed to grind out the bearing slots to allow their bearings to fit, but I didn't have that issue. Maybe the black anodising doesn't create a thick layer that interferes with fit, who knows. The assembly feels nice and sturdy so they'll be no flexing in there for sure! After some research I found out the dimensions for the shim should have an inner diameter the size of the inner bearing (5mm) and the outer being smaller than the outer of the bearing (11mm). Reason being is that the inner part of the bearing rotates whilst the outer is static. If you have a shim that puts the pressure on the outer rim of the bearing, the shaft won't rotate - makes sense. So I managed to find find these Teflon-coated shims from Traaxas on eBay and they're the perfect fit. Size is 5x8x0.5mm I placed them on the outside of the housing as my goal is to stop inward movement of the shaft. At first I tried two shims but once i reassembled the shaft it created binding to the point that it wouldn't rotate, so adding one on there was perfect. I've ordered another ring gear set from LiquidRC just in case this one now fails completely, but for now i think it's still usable in it's current state especially now I've shimmed it. I guess we'll see...