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Where are you planning on racing it? Whats the track like? And whats your experience like? This makes a massive difference as to what to recommend. I'll take you through the process as it works at my club (Bury Metro) and others in the North West region. I'm not to sure how the North East fares but it will be similar. OK - First up we need to deal with classes. My club, and most others around here, separate 2wd and 4wd cars in to different classes. When that happens, you tend to see 3-4x more 2wds than 4wds as its a much more popular class. Clearly for those clubs 2wd is the place to start. However some clubs (Ribble for example) run both types of buggy together. Under those circumstances 4wds are normally faster, so the club becomes dominated by 4wds. Find out how your target club does it first as that makes a big difference. Second - what surface does it run on? Outdoors on our super high grip astroturf track front motor so called 'cheater cars' like the KF, Team C TM2 and Xray Xb4-2 have a significant advantage over more conventional mid motors like the RB6, B5m and DEX210. Indoors on our half carpet/ half slippery polished floor track however the cheater cars are a real handful and mid-motors are better. This is the cause of some controversy in 10th off road at the moment. I personally have 3 cars - A Durango DEX210 2wd, a DEX410 4wd and a Cobra 4210 conversion which is a 'cheater car' made from 210 and 410 parts. Why? Because the 4210 is the best car on our astro, the 210 is better when we are indoors and the 410 is for my rare visits to Ribble. If you only race at one place, you might get away with one car though! Finally there is the question of how good you are. If you have little track experience I'd suggest you ignore all the above and get yourself a DEX210 RTR because its cheap. Don't upgrade it much, just run it until its clear that the car is whats slowing you down and not your driving. At that point flog it and follow the above advice. Its a much better way to learn than going out and buying a KF and a 7.5 motor only to find you can't control it (they aren't that beginner friendly). Incidentally a word of warning on the Schumacher KF - its a very very expensive car. Sure the kit doesn't look that pricy, but virtually all the ones you see doing well have spend

Got some new boots on the Wraith Voodoo U4's, they should handle the extra weight and power better than the IROKS I ran before

Decission made DDM chrome ordered from FreePawn Thanks for input guys

looking great pal. just read through the whole post. glad to see someone taking some time and effort modding from what they got. and when its all up and running (which shouldnt be long) you can admire your rig and be happy in the knowledge that you made it

Baja boring is right to pradictable.....baja for the grin factor

Been out playing in the mud again

look I know i'm going completely against the rules here, but seriously chuck that condor on ebay in good working condition; get

Replacement steering wheel for EX-1 KIY. Aluminum black wheel including the decreasing angle spacer. Source: Ko Propo

If using the stock transmitter then you can turn the steering rate up (it's the dial on the far right if looking down at the Tx). If you're using the stock servo I'd also recommend upgrading it a high torque servo. Good ones can be had for sub

Standard 6mm HD 8mm 6001 2rs bearing. 12x28x8 if I'm correct Fixed hubs come in standard or HD so that's 2 diff bearing sizes Fixed hubs have the bearing seat cut at an angle so the bearing don't sit square when fitted Say left side might be flush while right side is sitting proud Which give you the x amount of degree chosen Adjustable hubs have plastic insert on lower pin which changes tow in But over time can wear and give you movement/slop

Ordered a SCX10 and a 2400KV + MMM 2 for the slash

Made some rear mud guards for the STe out of an old milk carton. Made some rear mud guards for the STe out of an old milk carton.

Nothing at all wrong with that fella, looks bang on

Hey all. OK, this update had been a looooooong time coming, as I haven't been doing anything RC related (really) for months. Made the shell ages ago, but never updated, plus today I've been working on fitting body posts and getting the shell to sit right. I'll start by apologising for the awful photographs. My phone camera is rubbish and my living room has only one working lightbulb left! Decided to make this Seben Rock Crawler (Maverick Scout) conversion as DIY parts-bin-special as possible, since it won't be that great a crawler and I therefor don't want to chuck money at it. So, with the exception of the body shell, wheels and tyres, shocks and butchered RC-Offroad chassis, everything will be made using spare and broken parts and other stuff I simply have lying around. I personally think the truck looks... pretty terrible! But it is straight, it is strong and it should perform better than the sum of its parts. At least the shell looks good and I am pleased with how it turned out. The next things to do are to make a bracket to mount the electronics and a battery tray. The battery will be behind the gearbox, towards the back, which isn't ideal. So I'll add weights above the front wheels to compensate. Additionally, swapping the ni-mh battery to a lighter lipo may help. I will also have to look into making a front bumper. Cheers.

Brushless combo should be here tomoz or wednesday :-) Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

i had 9 a couple of weeks ago. but decided to sell some as i couldn't use them all. lol

As above....many times titanium is used for bone repair...and no doubt what the vet charged you it should have been unobtanium...

Ok mate will tex you when we leave bournemouth

Thats a good amount of metal work there.... Anything exotic, titanium etc, or just plain old stainless? May be worth weighing in if its exotic!

this build is amazing. it looks so good. bet you are really proud of it

yes..he is right....pls make xxx of each pls...u will sell them all...Trust me..

You want something like this ideally: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-rc6-vsp-80watt-7a-output-ac-dc-charger-with-fan/rc-car-products/379060&PageOnly=1 It will charge your nimh's, iirc it has delta peak so will stop charging when your nimh's are full - as a safety feature you can set a cut off for say 5000mah. When you first charge the unknown batteries check periodically that there not getting too warm. It will show you at the end of charging how many ma's it has squeezed into the battery - the next version up as well as being a little more powerful has a more detailed display re % charged afaik. I use the one linked. On top of which it'll do lipo's - has a good 7a supply so will do upto 7000mah lipo's at the recommended 1C rate, or fast charge 3500mah in about half an hour etc. There's a good post re lipo's in the general electric section.

That's an awesome mini-banner! I've heard good things about the Crawler Innovations inserts, I was tempted to get some for my current SCX10 build, I might get some at a later date.

They are the 2 degree ones.

as far as i know, most drifters run sensored motors as they are a lot smoother, esp at low revs. on carpet you dont need high revs. slow and controlled is key. I have drifted on carpet and tarmac and find the 10.5t is about right. some prefer slow 13.5 and some got 8-9. its mainly personal preference and car setup which determines the motor needed.

He asked for opinions and that's what he got, I thought this is what forums are for? I stopped using them fuels 5 years ago, when I first started out they made it difficult for me. They are so smokey i found it difficult to tune as a beginner and it smells horrid. I switched fuel to find easier tuning, no masses of smoke, no horrid smell and better performance. How do you find it compared to other fuels like byrons, optifuel race etc? Obviously some people find them ok, they wouldn't be in business otherwise

Mr Gimp..........I don't know of any car that can lap West London as quick as your drifter!

Losi 5ive T. It's boringly fantastic!

Happy to help

send it to me an I'll strip it for u...job done!!...u get to rebuild it!!

Stick with either the Hyper 7 or Trophy Truggy, the Hyper is solid as a rock and spares are everywhere should you need them! Waterproofing is cheap & easy - drop your receiver and hump pack into balloons and put a zip tie one the end. For the servos, get yourself some plastidip and give them a good coating. No need to waterproof the filter IMO, a good soaking in filter oil will keep the worst of it out. Buggy bodyshells tend to keep most of the water out anyway. Of course, even "waterproof" cars will have limits and you have to be sensible - deliberately driving through mega deep puddles/lakes/rivers isn't going to do any model much good. Don't forget to fully dry the car afterwards and apply WD40 to any parts that are likely to rust.

Gave the D90 a good run, I'm still impressed with it, more so every time. Ragged Chevy Carnage around a wet grassy area. Major rooster tail action lol. Also ramped it and generally abused it. Was only stopped by lack of packs (the broken rear body post and front CVD didn't slow it down much. Although, the lack of traction on 2wd made forward progress interesting!) Wrapped electrical tape round the Lil Losi's tyres and did some carpet drifting in my Travelodge room

Ndor Christmas Cracker 04/01/15 http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31563-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31561-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31556-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31558-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31559-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31560-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31555-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31550-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31552-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31549-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31548-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31547-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31546-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31545-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31543-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31537-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31540-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31539-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31538-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31536-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31535-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31534-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31533-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31532-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31531-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31529-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31528-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31527-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31525-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31524-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31521-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31520-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31519-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31518-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31517-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31516-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31514-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31513-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31512-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31511-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31510-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31509-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31507-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31506-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31505-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31504-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31503-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31502-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31500-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31499-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31498-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31497-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31501-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31523-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31522-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31515-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31526-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31551-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31562-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/31554-/

How about painting the wheel arches matt black?

looking on another thread core rc is part of HISKY look bit down in thread http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=68976 looking at this website x-3s transmitter should work http://www.chiyuan.net/enproducts.asp?bigclass=Radio+controller

Don't buy one for that alone.... Fit that waterproof air filter, waterproof your receiver/battery box, fit waterproof servos and you have a waterproof car

I really hope so, I need something to stop me buying one

If you preheat the engine with a hair dryer or heat gun before starting, the metal parts of the engine expand slightly. This will allow the engine to turn over much easier, thus it will need much less of a 'yank' on the pullstart to get it going.

Not the postie, but i did pick up a nice little dremel sort of tool for

Ive got a km cage from rcmodelz and it comes with bits to fit it, even with stone guards and a couple of other bits it was still only about

no as a reed engine is has been ported differently to normal/ stnd heads and will only work with reed bottoms

The trucks are made by HiMoto and rebranded as 'Maverick' for HPI. They are a generic clone of the CY motor, probably sourced from the same place Rovan and KM get theirs. You should be able to swap in CY parts when it wears out, or else upgrade to a better 4-bolt motor when the time comes. Most likely it will use the 36mm bore and 30mm +2 stroker crank to get 30.5cc most likely.

Heres a guide below I wrote a while back --------------------------------------- What you'll need: Start by purchasing some primer as this will be the base layer to the spray job. You can get the Halfords grey can (400/500ml) which is about

Well that was an utter fail.

Gas mark 5 and if they come out black then left them to long

lol...just get em hot you aint cookin them yanno..lol

I quite like it. I would obviously prefer a classic rally car though but at least its a real car and not some made up shape. The price is stupid high, way to high imo, my baja kraken probably has more cash in it but its been put into it over a long time, the thought of spending all that dosh on a rc in one go would make me judge my sanity tbh lol.

what dave isn't telling us is that he's a secret boy racer at the lights Ziggy