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Hobao Hyper VS(e) Owners Thread


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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi 

 

I have the nitro version but this seems to be the place to post. I wonder could I have some help.
 

im having trouble with the lower rear arms where the output shaft for the diff is. The output shafts are rubbing on the arms unless I reduce the droop to very minimal levels. When they run they actually move the arm up and down. I have even tried moving the shock mount positions to no effect. 

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11 hours ago, collective itch said:

Can you post some photos?

Hi 

 

Of course. Im trying to sort out my suspension and I want to figure out what is wrong at the same time,  it has had this problem since I got it from new. As you can see the droop stop screws  have been adjusted to hold the arms in that position because if they are any lower the output shaft interferes with the arms. You can see where I forgot to set the droop and they gouged into the arms.  
The problem doesn’t really affect running the car round on the flat, it’s when I jump or accelerate hard and the rear lifts. 
Please ignore the state of the car it’s not a shelf queen. 

330F0CB4-3CF1-433D-A8D5-EF670952D9EF.jpeg

1AD14783-E6BD-42E3-9D5E-577A29ED114F.jpeg

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13 minutes ago, Scampaboy said:

Hi 

 

Of course. Im trying to sort out my suspension and I want to figure out what is wrong at the same time,  it has had this problem since I got it from new. As you can see the droop stop screws  have been adjusted to hold the arms in that position because if they are any lower the output shaft interferes with the arms. You can see where I forgot to set the droop and they gouged into the arms.  
The problem doesn’t really affect running the car round on the flat, it’s when I jump or accelerate hard and the rear lifts. 
Please ignore the state of the car it’s not a shelf queen. 

330F0CB4-3CF1-433D-A8D5-EF670952D9EF.jpeg

1AD14783-E6BD-42E3-9D5E-577A29ED114F.jpeg

The left bottom shock screw mount is in the outer arm hole and the right one is in the inner arm hole, usually they need to be the same. Are you saying the that the diff drive cup is catching on the arm when the arm is at it lowest angle? Cant say I've seen this on any Hypers. 

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42 minutes ago, locky said:

The left bottom shock screw mount is in the outer arm hole and the right one is in the inner arm hole, usually they need to be the same. Are you saying the that the diff drive cup is catching on the arm when the arm is at it lowest angle? Cant say I've seen this on any Hypers. 

That’s my mistake I was just fiddling with it  I’ll change the mounting positions to match, they are normally in the same holes 😂😂😂 Yes the arm is catching. I can make a video and post a link 

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18 hours ago, Scampaboy said:

That’s my mistake I was just fiddling with it  I’ll change the mounting positions to match, they are normally in the same holes 😂😂😂 Yes the arm is catching. I can make a video and post a link 

Image of rear on mine with arms relaxed, which I think has more droop than in your pic.  If i rotate the wheel the diff cup doesnt touch the arm when either it is at its min or max angle. The arms have a cut out where the diff sits. 

 

tQEGDjg.jpg

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10 hours ago, Stormbringer said:

they are fairly robust buggy's :cheers:

 

7 hours ago, collective itch said:

They are great bashers, and great value

Okay thank you, can they take 6s power without problems or are there parts that need to be beefed up?

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2 hours ago, oscart2005 said:

 

Okay thank you, can they take 6s power without problems or are there parts that need to be beefed up?

 

May run 6s, with an appropriate KV motor, without issues.  Personally I prefer running 4s and higher KV.  Run times suffer but there's less torque issues than a 6s lower kv system - I find it more forgiving on the drivetrain, and getting lipos to fit is less problematic!  Each to their own.

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1 minute ago, capri-boy said:

 

May run 6s, with an appropriate KV motor, without issues.  Personally I prefer running 4s and higher KV.  Run times suffer but there's less torque issues than a 6s lower kv system - I find it more forgiving on the drivetrain, and getting lipos to fit is less problematic!  Each to their own.

Okay cheers👍

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Maybe I have figured out the problem with the droop. The front screw which holds the diff casing to the chassis had stripped, the diff was sat slightly higher in that corner. The screw was still in place just not holding anything. 
I need to get some anodised holders for the arm pins as it’s destroyed that also 

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What are the differences between the old Hyper 7 and the "new" VSe? I was thinking about getting a VSe but i see a lot of Nitro Hyper 7's around fairly cheap (£1-150ish), Would it be more cost effective going for a nitro 7 conversion, The £200 VSe "kit" and something like a Hobbywing Max8 combo or getting the RTR?

I bought an FTX Bugsta a week ago to get back into RC and have smashed the 💩 out of it already, hella fun though! 😁

Edited by Scottyb
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To be honest your possibly better getting the rtr reason saying that your h7 at 150 then another 200 approx to convert it for a little more you can get the VSe 150a rtr version new  i think Modelsport do it for £389 ( of course if you have H7 lying around then you could convert it)

i know the diffs are H7 but as for other parts not sure 

They are a quite solid robust buggy :cheers:

 

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Hi guys,

 

I put in an order for one of these first thing this morning.

 

I think I will upgrade to the badlands wheels pretty soon they are out of stock at the moment. I will be mostly running off road plus I think they look so cool.

 

I have a question, where I plan on running it mostly, is a farm track, which is like gravelly, dusty and a bit rockey in places I'm worried I will destroy the bottom of the chassis in not much time, can anyone recommend a chassis protector or skid plate?

 

 

 

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