locky

If the car ran well with no obvious signs or sounds of running lean then I wouldnt worry. Always best to know what too lean and rich sound like and wont hurt if you just see with a couple of wide open throttle passes after adjusting. The image is a guide as nitro fuels dont all use the same additives but is a general indication, so yes 1 is the closest to your plug.

Looks ok, no significant coil deformation, they can fail relatively quickly just down to the variable quality of the plug, another one may last much longer. I had a number of the HSP N4 plugs fail in quick order, the next few lasted.

Try the 4000Kv motor, looks like it will work according to this video, how long the drivetrain will last will depend on your trigger finger. You could reduce the throttle power if your transmitter has adjustable end points. The program card will help to control punch and brakes.

Are needle settings close to factory? Always best to know where you are starting to tune from. Could be too rich or dodgy glow plug or carb idle gao too small. Rule of thumb is to be able to get it idling then tune HSN first, then adjust LSN and idle. You can always adjust the throttle trim to increase idle rpm.

You may see a solution here...https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/servo-horn-issue.35909/

Is the servo horn stock or aftermarket, as the latter maybe the issue?

Recently addes a K110S, great deal on Banggood and enjoying it, flying outdoors where crash landings are kinder. Find that main gear comes loose or twists out of position after some crash landings. Even dusted off Phoenix RC sim for more practice and muscle memory for inverted flying. Not had any rc cars out yet, but hopefully soon, after rebuilding a few nitro engines.

My money is on a Yokomo, https://rcworld.us/rc-1-10-drift-mazda-rx7-toyo-tires-yokomo-awd-chassis-w-gyro-led-rtr/

Have you tried google image search? Sometimes you can be lucky.

You should feel the manifold touching the gasket as you push it in, so an interference fit. Otherwise your just relying on the faceplate seal. Sometimes you can cut one gasket down and double up, one on top the other, on the engine, but depends on thickness. A spring that looks stretched or is very easy to put could also be part of the problem. Unfortunately exhaust manifolds and engines vary in their sizes.

I've always found the HPI gaskets to be thicker, https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/109078/

If the servo isnt rated for 7.4v then your 2s li rx battery is probably the reason why the servos have died, but you also need to set the servo end points, Setting end points means setting the points where the servo stops moving left or right. If the servo moves more then your steering/throttle can turn, then the servo components will be under stress causing electronics to over heat and potentially stripping gears. Your receiver also needs to be rated for 7.4v.

Cant tonight. The TRX esc has the new ID connectoer and the adpater has the old TRX connector with XT90 on the other end. Plenty of info out there such as this.

I'm using an adapter for my TRX4 esc which has same TRX connector and fits on the TRX4 esc TRX connector. The old TRX connectors fit the new TRX connectors.

traxxas esc to nimh tamiya? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/412931

Not sure but if you press plus or minus whilst charging then the display should show the voltage for each cell, which will reach 4.2v when fully charged. The charge rate will significantly decrease the closer it gets to full charge as the charger will use it's balance lead to ensure each cell reaches 4.2v. you can get cheap battery voltage tester which plugs into balance lead for testing lipo pack condition.

USA/GBP exchange rate isnt what it used to be and UK 20% VAT, US has on average 5-7% sales tax and this is added at checkout so not added to the display price, it is what it is.

Improvemnet depends if you want to use the additionals features such as extra channels, extra model memories, alarm if left on, key mapping, 4WS, etc.

I've installed custom firmware on GT3B and GT3C and your previous settings will be overwritten.

Depends if you want to try and get it going and if it was running well last time. Take the cooling head off and the head button with glow plug. You can then hopefully see down into the crankcase, unless stuck at TDC, if you can then fill it with some fresh nitro fuel and leave it over night. If still not turning over then take backplate off, try heating engine, spray WD40, and use flywheel to turn it over, rocking back/forth. Usually the residual nitro oil dries up in a stored engine. I've recently got a Fastrax Enduro 21 engine and performs well in a 1/8 buggy and dont see why it wouldnt fit.

Personally I think C ratings are made up numbers as there isnt a standard method to determine this rating. I assume you are using about a 2000Kv motor and 150A esc.

I recently got these Zeee 3s to fit savage flux, they fit the older style battery boxes and perform well.

I guess one isnt becoming a Tamiya Nut, and not an old one yet! 😬

if you adjust the dual rate for channel 2 ie,throttle then you are also limiting braking power as it reduces the same for both inputs. Therefore use end point adjustment for throttle forward and brake, whch is individual.